01-14-2004, 04:07 PM
i purchased the brightstar 5000k hid kit. everything is plug and play for my 9006 low beams. I have connected everything correctly but the hids do not come on. i even switched around bulbs, ballasts and igniters to rule out a faulty one, and still nothing. In the process of doing this i have drained my battery and had me and my friend had to jump my car. i should not have to do anything else correct? any wires or relays??they supply me with a 20a fuse, but i see nothing for headlight that uses a regular fuse. i only see two black phraes (sp?) under the hood. i have contacted the company twice, but they arent of much help since no one has done it on an eclipse before. they also have an extra relay you can purchase and wire it that way. any help you could offer id appreciate greatly.
01-14-2004, 11:35 PM
try to hardwiring it to see if it works like that...
other wise Id say you got screwed into buying some cheap tiwan HID setup.
Fact is, ANY re-based HID (as in, not p32d base, ie: 9006, H4, H1 etc etc) are now illeagle to sell. So just be wary of anyone selling bulbs with a base thats not a p32d (looks nothing like any regular bulb) watch out if the bulb is colored as well.
are your bulbs D2S or D2R? (D2S has a seperate ceramic return line) if it IS D2S, make sure they weren't dmaged in shipping, a small crack in that ceramic will cause them to not fire. It can be JB welded back together though (you must heat cure it in an oven at about 300 for 15 min after its dried, but if your bulb is Rebased this may melt the base) Also D2S shouldn't be used w/o a good projector ( DOT or ECE, example Hella 90mm modules)
good luck, and for anyone else thinking of HID, just spend the money and get some p32d projectors and forget about all the rebasing, and ghetto rigging.
01-15-2004, 12:24 AM
how would i go about hard wiring it? their isnt anything i could wire to the battery, unless i get these 2 relays from them. in that case the illustration shows me to wire from the ballast, to the relay, which then connects to the battery. and going the other direction from the relay to the wiring harness, to the standard light socket. i would assume this would be the way of choice. but those greedy son of bitches want 20 bucks for the damn relays.
01-15-2004, 03:59 AM
(nothing)...|_Ballast _|--------To bulb------
OK! now to test just pull everyting out and touch the positive wire to the positive battery terminal, and negetive to the negative. YOU MUST MAINTAIN POLARITY!!! switching the neg and pos will prematurley kill the balast and it won't fire.
typically you want to wire the relay BEFORE the balast, that way you don't spend uber bucks on relays that can handle 85v, and it keeps the ballast from running all the time, but with the retrofits, this isn't possible w/o a LOT of cutting and splicing. You MAY be able to use the Radio shack, 30a, NO, automotive Relays (the same that you use for the FP rewire) but I don't know if they are rated to handle 85v. Even if they aren't rated for 85v it should work, but it may cut the relay life significantly (from about 10,000 cycles to probably 1,000, worst case scenario, still almost 1.5 years if you turn them on and off 2 times every day) The relay won't up and melt or anyhting (ballasts pull only ~1.5a)