PDA

View Full Version : It's like pump up... gone right?




ScreamingEagle
07-19-2005, 01:02 PM
Ok, I recently put the SB 3500 cluctch kit and a Fidanza flywheel (the stocker was toast.) I bled the system like 5 times, so there's no air in the lines. I can go from 1 to R with no issues at all. There's no slipping, or chattering, and the car drives fine, mostly. But there's some strange issues that are bothering me.

At first I had to put the pedal to the floor and then some to be able to shift. I actually wiggled the driver seat loose in a day of driving from having to brace against it. The shifter had to be manned into gear. I adjusted the freeplay (again) and now it shifts wonderfully, the pedal doesn't have to be embedded in the floor, and the shifter moves with ease. I left freeplay at the top of the pedal (I have a 2g.) What's strange is that when I first start the car the pedal is really soft feeling (stock feel soft- the 3500 feels similar to the ACT 2600.) No matter how much I pump the pedal it remains soft, not so much spongy, just a really light feeling pedal. I drive the car, and for the first mile or so, the pedal stays soft, I have to go about 3/4 of the way down for the clutch to disengage, and to be able to shift smoothly. Even if I pump it while coasting, it makes non difference. After a mile or so, the pedal gets nice and stiff again, and I only have to press it 1/3 to 1/2 way for it to be smooth. There's still freeplay, it's not like a Del Sol clutch pedal or anything. If I let the car sit for a few hours, the pedal still feels ok, but overnight and it gets soft again.

I thought that it was pump up, but like I said, the clutch doesn't feel like it's slipping, and it feels much better after driving and it getting stiffer, like smoother engagement. I'm not sure if it's normal, since this is the first hydraulic clutch car I've had, and the clutch components are new. The cables feel the same all the time, but I don't know if the hydraulic system needs to be driven a bit to build up pressure or something.

I got the master to slave steel braided line, but didn't install it yet (it was backordered and I received it after the car was back together,) so I'm not sure if that could be the issue. Also, I have a more prominent in gear coast down growl especially noticeable in 3rd and 4th, since the clutch job. I did have to get new axles, so maybe it's them. I'm not sure if this is normal, or even related, but I figured I'd throw it in in case someone finds it to be helpful.

Thanks in advance,
Nikki




Agent11br
09-07-2005, 11:06 PM
I'm having the SAME EXACT PROBLEM with my SBR 3500 and JUN flywheel combo. Did you figure it out yet? I tried doing the TRE and RRE methods for adjustment to no success :(

ScreamingEagle
09-23-2005, 02:15 PM
Well I ended up putting a new master in, bled it more than I'd like to admit, and it was fine. For a week. Then I end up not being able to get into first or reverse at all.
Out comes the trans... I shimmed the fork, re-lubed everything up, put a new slave bleeder valve in (mine was rounded off-ish) and all goes back together. So I bled, and bled, and bled..... This time i adjusted the pedal height a little bit as well, so i wouldn't have to have the master rod turned all the way to the end. I did need to do a some adjusting, though, with the master rod.
The car shifts beautifully now. It still "pumps up" on me, I have noticeably more freeplay during the first few miles, but then I only have a wee bit. I don't need to grind the pedal into the floor anymore to shift, and minus the nose diving from the shot suspension, shifting is wonderfully smooth.
I'm not sure what did it, I think it was it all, but that's how I fixed my problem.