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View Full Version : Turbotrix patrons BE WARY. Terrible experience.




TantrumSKID
12-19-2005, 09:10 PM
I recently needed a clutch install on my '99 GSX and found out about Turbotrix in Edison, NJ. Being native to New York City, it was about 1.5 hours out of my way, but needless to say I felt my DSM deserved the little effort in travel time to have the job done right. I chose and purchased a SPEC Stage II clutch kit from SpeedFactor in VA based on all the positive reviews this kit has been getting here and at tuners. I called Turbotrix a week in advance and made an appointment. The guy on the phone, Mike, seemed nice enough and was accomodating in answering the million+1 questions I had (I am a very conscious buyer and before I purchase services or goods, I like to know what I'm getting into). In short, he confirmed that they were indeed DSM "specialists" and work almost exclusively on 1g/2g and EVOs. When asked about installing the clutch (the SPEC one to be specific) he said they'd done one on a Subaru WRX. Moreover, he also told me that if arranged, the work could be done same day if dropped off early enough and the car would be returned in the afternoon. This made me really happy as I no longer had to worry about arranging for extra transportation home or back to pick up.

A week passed by and my appointment day had come. Suffering from a slipping clutch for the past several weeks, I was looking forward to finally being able to unleash the full potential of my DSM again. Needless to say I woke up bright and early filled with excitement. I originally made the appointment for 9am, but manhattan and tunnel traffic was especially horrendous that day and I didn't arrive at their shop until 10:30. When I got there, I asked if me being late would impact them being able to deliver my car completed on time at the end of the day as promised. Mike said it was not a problem, snagged my keys, and my car was in the shop and on the lift within 20-30 mins. Wow, I thought to myself, another big + on the customer service.

The late afternoon rolled around and I stopped by the shop with about an hour remaining on my install. I hung out in the waiting area, read some magazines, and was pretty much psyched to get my car back with a functional clutch. Here's where things got interesting. As I was goofing off and killing time, a customer walks in. I overheard him complaining to Mike about how his second gear "grinds now" and that they need to look at the work they did on his car. Some more arguing ensued, but I drowned it out thinking nothing of it initially and went about my business. The customer then sat down as well. Myself growing tired of the reading selection, I decided to strike up a friendly conversation. Long story short, this guy whose name I didn't catch was also a pround 2G owner ('99 GST if I remember). He had his clutch and clutch fork replaced the week prior and was living a nightmare ever since. Because I do not know the full details of his situation I will not remark on he said/she said heresay. Suffice it to say though, he put a very big lump in my stomach. He warned me to pop the hood and inspect the contents, test drive the car as thoroughly as possible, and make sure everything was right before I even thought of embarking on my journey home. I did mention home was over an hour away in NYC to him, which made him stress the test driving part even further.

By now, my mood had gone from jittery and excited to anxious and somewhat paranoid. At the same time though, I kept telling myself that this is only one customer and most likely an isolated incident. Afterall, this shop churns out high horsepower cars and 9 second EVOs right? Clutch jobs to them are like rudimentary physics to Einstein. Walk in the park. It was probably just a big misunderstanding. I had nothing to worry about. Or did I.... :rolleyes:

When one of the guys finally came around to hand me my keys, I made sure to ask, "So everything went ok? Did you guys take it for a spin and test the car out?". I got an apathetic nod. After taking my keys, one of the guys (Keith) who I saw through the shop window physically sitting in the driver seat tinkering with the gearbox also walked in. I also asked him how the install went, and we proceeded to have a conversation about how 2Gs are prone to crankwalk and shoot the shit about DSMs a bit. He mentioned to me that the TOB that came with the SPEC was really funky looking and did not in any way resemble the OEM one that came out of the car. Not being very mechanically inclined personally, I kind of looked at him like he had 3 heads when he said that and could only ask "oh...is that a bad thing?" He said it was not good or bad, that it was just different looking is all.

Finger crossed and saying a silent prayer, I walked out to the lot and got in my car. The first thing I noticed was the gears became INCREDIBLY stiff. None of them grinded, but in a stopped position with clutch in, I had to throw a little of my weight into the shifter to make them go in. Immediately I ran inside to notify Keith. He came outside and checked them out, took the car for a drive with me in the passenger seat, and after a few blocks commented how they weren't bad compared to what they were 'before'. I'm thinking to myself, my car has only 30 some odd thousand miles on its odometer and drove like mint (other than the clutch slippiage) when I brought it in here. What the hell did he mean it's actually better than before? Turns out what he meant was after they got the clutch on, for some reason or other the shifter was so stiff they needed the force of both hands and leg leverage to get it to go into gear. Ok, so I guess it's probably a little stiff after putting together everything and just needs time to free itself up again. Fair enough explanation. I thanked him for his help and heeding the other customer's advice, I proceeded to drive up and down the roads surrounding the shop. Sure enough the gears began freeing up and the car appeared to operate normally. With my fears almost completely erased, I breathed a sigh of relief and headed toward the main road that lead to the highway. On the main road, there were many stoplights and I noticed at the second or third one that my idle had risen and stayed at a steady 1200RPMs. Again, I immediately rushed back to the shop. Keith came out again and after looking around under the hood, said the recirculation kit on my HKS SSQV was to blame. He said the adapter nozzle that connected the tube to the intake dump was too flimsy and must be the culprit. Hmm, I've had this same BOV for over a year now with not a single problem and mysteriously THIS was to blame? Sounded wrong, but who was I to argue with the "specialist". He cut the adapter to fit inside the hose instead of around it and clamped the hose around the newly made adapter. I forgot to mention that when I first mentioned the high idle, prior to pointing his finger at the SSQV recric, HE TOOK A SCREWDRIVER TO THE BISS SCREW AND BOTTOMED IT OUT! At that time I had no idea you could/should not touch the BISS without a scantool or ecu groundout, it wasn't until I got home with my idle problems still occuring and searching the forums that I realzied what a royal fuck up that was on his part.

On the highway parts of the drive home, I noticed a very distinct wobbling/metal-on-metal noise coming from the bottom region of the vehicle. It would happen only on a heavy decel (ie. 70 to 60 engine breaking) and if I clutched in, blipped the gas or threw the car in neutral, the sound would go away. At this point it was almost 9pm, and with nobody answering the phone at Turbotrix, I didn't want to chance driving back and finding a closed shop. So instead I drove home and figured I would call in the morning, speak to Keith, and he'll arrange a time for me to go back. Next day came, after getting in touch with Keith, he said it'd be no problem for me to bring the car in the following Friday to have another look at the idle, and told me that sound I was hearing on decel was 'normal'. "It's your driveline noise resonating through your bellhousing. Most heavy duty clutches will do that, it's nothing to worry about." Again, I was speechless. Nobody and none of the reviews I read listed any of these type of symptoms about SPEC clutches. But I figured whatever, it'll get resolved when I go back.

During the week, because he bottomed out my idle screw, my car reacted all kinds of funny. I even threw an SES light. After searching through the forums I realized the problem causing the original high idle was probably still present and things had just gotten compoundedly worse by him messing with my BISS screw. Praying and hoping they honor their worksmanship, the next Friday could not have come quicker. I drove back down to Turbotrix bright and early hoping to get all my issues resolved. Instead, all I got was grief. First off, after speaking to Mike and Keith, I was hoping either one of them would ask me for the keys and take the car out back. Instead, some other guy Mark (who was not present that day when I had my clutch installed) asks me for my keys. I figured ok, maybe this guy is a little more knowledgeable and they turned the problem over to him. So he proceeds to take my keys and drive my car into the shop. Being very wary now, I peer inside trying to get a look at the stuff they were doing. Mark hooks a scantool up under my dash and pulls the codes. He rights down 'P0170' Fuel Trim Malfunction Bank 1 and 'P0125' Insufficient Temp for Closed Loop. He then says "the first one's a bad O2 sensor for sure, and the second one I'm not sure what it means, but I think if you fix the first, the second will go away. With that he hands me my keys. I'm like....WTF?!?!?!?

I didn't know how to argue with him technically, but at the very least LOGIC seemed like it would do in this scenario. I explained that I had no problems with my LOW MILEAGE car before I brought it there and now all of a sudden I have 2 SES lights, a bad O2 sensor, and a weird wobble/metallic noise? I mentioned that I had a high idle not FIVE BLOCKS after initially taking back the car, and that I brought it back and Keith had fashioned the "adapter" and adjusted my BISS. I asked him if the BISS being off could have done caused this, and that I was informed the idle screw should not have been played with so carelessly without a scantool or ecu groundout. He said "that's not true who told you that?" I could NOT believe what I was hearing. I said "you mean to tell me it's ok to just put a screwdriver to the BISS while the motor's running and twist away?". "Absolutely, don't believe everything you read or hear." I was flabbergasted. He had basically spit on the entire online DSM community with that comment. Then I asked about the wobble-metal noise on decel. "You have a SPEC clutch right? Yeah that's normal. Why do you think they're sold so cheap. We have a Subaru with one in it. Same thing." I commented how nobody else I've heard of having a SPEC has complained about these symptoms. He just shrugged me off.

So here's a guy, who did NOT even drive the car to confirm or analyze the decel sound, and placed the sole blame of my problems on my "cheap" SPEC clutch and broken O2 sensor. Thanks buddy, GREAT customer care you practice.

I'm tired of writing and I'm sure if you've read up to this point you're probably tired of hearing my story, so here is the final gist of things. After my friend who is A LOT more mechanically knowledgable than me (he is one of the moderaters over at TCCA and SHOforums) was nice enough to drive down to Turbotrix from NYC to argue with Mark, I was still denied any type of secondary service. He finally conceded to say "How about this. We'll send your car to Brad Benson Mitsubishi and let them look at it. If your problems are due to our fault, we'll pay for it. If it's not, you foot the bill". We commented how he probably has relations with this dealer and it would be a biased diagnosis. He said no, "They hate us because we void their warranty. They won't give a biased diagnosis in our favor trust me." Another lie, as I discovered Brad Benson Mitsubishi is actually OFFERING TURBOTRIX STAGED EVO UPGRADES as dealer backed options with new Evolutions.

Link here:
http://www.forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=174994

The same SHO buddy of mine, spent the entire night helping me put in a new O2 we got from Autozone and checking for loose driveline parts that might be responsible for the wobble-metallic noise. O2 replacement was a success, but did not solve any of my idle issues (not surprised). Everything in the driveline seemed fine, so we suspect it's something to do with the clutch and flywheel assembly. Without a tranny jack though, we couldn't drop the transmission to confirm this. I realize this was a horrendously long post and if you read up to here thank you for your patience and attention. If I was able to convince even ONE person to think twice before trusting this shop with their car, then I have already succeeded.

-Mike




TantrumSKID
12-19-2005, 10:20 PM
My friend wanted me to clarify he is only a mod at TCCA not SHOforums, just to keep facts in order. My apologies.

FourG63 98GST
12-20-2005, 06:59 AM
While i understand your story, but one thing that you have to be aware of is that you can definitely turn the biss screw while motor is on. Its called "adjusting to proper idle". Once you get it to sit at the right idle, thats when u stop turning. Whoever told u otherwise probably doesnt know shit.

Second, sounds like they were dishonest to you on some parts. Best thing i advise to you is avoid them in the future. Everyone has to learn there lesson in some way or form, unfortunately now you know heads up about there customer service regardless of what you hear about there 9 second Evo's.

Thanks for the heads up.

diambo4life
12-20-2005, 08:24 AM
While i understand your story, but one thing that you have to be aware of is that you can definitely turn the biss screw while motor is on. Its called "adjusting to proper idle". Once you get it to sit at the right idle, thats when u stop turning. Whoever told u otherwise probably doesnt know shit.

.
That is NOT the proper way to adjust the idle on our cars. You need to ground 2 pins then turn the BISS screw to set idle although most people can shortcut it and it may work on some cars half the time. Other cars definitely don't like this as his demonstrated.

I think it's rather sad that a respectable DSM shop like Turbotrix couldn't work it out with you but again, it's rather difficult to get everything "straightened out" correctly with you waiting for the car. Next time, just drop off the car at a shop so they can get everything straightened out BEFORE you pick it up. If you are not satisfied, leave it there until everything is corrected. My 2 cents..

That was a LONG post, but very detailed. Nice review.

greenstreak
12-20-2005, 08:38 AM
It is a shame when you spend money and leave a shop, any shop unsatisfied.

My only two comments that relate to you situation are this.
1. In my 10 years of 2G ownership I have honestly never grounded out anything when adjusting my BISS. If I am sure that I have no boost leaks and no other issues I just turn the BISS and set my desired idle speed.

2. While I haven't kept up with SPEC stuff on this board I am also pretty active in the MR2 community. They HATE SPEC clutches because of this noise problem as well as disengagement issues and problems with the sprung hubs.

JNZTuning
12-20-2005, 11:11 AM
1) Some clutches *DO* create driveline noise as indicated. Evos in general have seen quite a bit of this, but I've seen it in 1Gs and 2Gs as well with some clutches.

2) SPEC has a great reputation? Some of the horror stories I've seen with SPEC clutches has been enough to make me refuse to sell, let alone install them.

3)BISS screw adjustment while the car is running--nothing wrong with that. Kinda hard to adjust the idle with the car *NOT* running.

4) You *seemingly* insinuate that the check engine light was their fault. Then later, say that "02 Sensor Replacement was a success". Did someone unplug it at Turbotrix? I would think that you would have stated that if they had. If not, please explain (or have your knowledgeable friends explain to me) how doing a clutch install made your 02 Sensor go bad.

It's kinda like the time I did a trans rebuild for a certain moderator on this board (points to thread above). Amazingly, after re-installing the transmission, the car wouldn't start. I got the "Well, the car ran when you pulled it in" comment. So, after some diagnosis, we find that the previous owner hacked the install on the oil pump sproket, and it ate into the CAS--obviously nothing that I could have caused.

My point? This kinda crap does happen, and it's always "well you touched it last".

While you may have a gripe about the customer service you recieved (and that's up to your opinion/expectations), you're having an issue with a clutch that YOU purchased (obviously installed correctly--or you wouldn't be shifting) to have someone else install. And their biggest mistake is installing someone else's part in your car.

To Review:
Nothing wrong with the way they adjusted your BISS. In fact, nothing they touched should have caused the idle issue other then re-setting your ECU when the battery was yanked--Unless you're saying that they went to the time and trouble to replace your 02 with a bad one. Wasn't their responsibility to tune your car, nor fix issues that were clearly not related to installing a clutch, when you only wanted them to install a clutch that you purchased.

I'm not defending TT for their sake neccesarily---but I've been in the above position where something like this happens. It's kinda like stereo shops installing a radio, then the customer's rear ABS sensor fails and it's of course--the stereo shop's fault because "You touched it last".

TurbotrixRacing
12-20-2005, 11:26 AM
Your car came back because you said your idle was fluctuating, and you had two codes. I scanned your car and gave you the codes. I told you what it was. You said " how did the O2 sensor go bad ? " i responded .. i dont know but its bad. You seem to have blammed me for that and your idle problem.

NONE of which were the cause from a clutch going in. You came back 4 times and brought a taurus mechanic who thought he knew what he was talking about. You said what if i change the o2 and it doesnt fix it ???? I said it will just change it. You just didnt want to accept that your o2 could go bad in a 7yr old car with 40k miles on it.

Then you complain about your decel noise in your clutch. You bought and supplied a spec clutch ( with puck ) ... They all make noise on decel as i explained to you. Again .. must be my fault.

So after you wrote a novel which i didnt even read.. your last line states that you replaced the 02, like i said and it fixed both your codes..

I asked you before and i'll ask you again in what way does putting a clutch in affect your idle ? Keep in mind ,, his car was idling in the shop while i scanned his codes for 20 min ..and didnt fluctuate above or below 850 rpms.

Let us all know when you take the clutch back out and discover your idle problems ..


Mark
Turbotrix

TurbotrixRacing
12-20-2005, 12:58 PM
Some interesting posts by the same person .. I esp like the 5 quart post

Link to thread (http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91357)


.3 quarts too much (http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92587)

Car keeps stalling (http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=99195)

TantrumSKID
12-20-2005, 06:31 PM
First, I'd like to point out that my SPEC clutch is a kevlar disc. You can reference speed factor's website where I bought it:

http://www.thespeedfactor.com/clutch_spec_dsm.html

As for the 2 threads that I posted, yes I already ADMITTED that I am not mechanically inclined. Asking if .3 quarts over the 4.7qts factory specification (go look in your Mitsubishi owner's manual) was detrimental or not isn't a legitimate question for someone learning to change their own oil? Also, the HKS SSQV - "car stalling" question was asked because this particular BOV does NOT come with the recirculation kit. You have to buy it seperately. Since HKS nor the store I bought it from informed me of this, initially installing the BOV without the kit caused stalling issues. Buying one and recirculating the air back into the intake dump tube eliminated the problem. Again, I am not mechanically inclined. What is your point of proving with 2 links of my posts the facts that I have already SELF-ADMITTED? What do I have to do, repeate it a few more times? I'm not mechanically inclined, I'm not mechanically inclined, I'm not mechanically inclined, I'm not mechanically inclined, I'm not mechanically inclined, I was/am still learning.

Furthermore, notice the dates on those 2 posts. 2002, yes that was almost 4 years ago. I was completely new to the do-it-yourself car world then, and in fact (repeating ONE more time in case you missed it) I still DO NOT CONSIDER MYSELF MECHANICALLY INCLINED BY ANY MEANS.

Now to answer your questions Mark. My car idled at 850 the whole time while you had the scantool on it right? YES. Good job on listening to me (your customer) by the way. I had already told you, THE CAR NEEDS TO BE DRIVEN FOR THE IDLE TO FLUCTUATE. Did I not say tol you, at least 5 times, that sometimes I can keep my foot on the gas, rev it to about 1000-1100 RPMs and if i left off slowly the needle will STAY THERE? And that the idle doesn't "surge" it's steady, just at different RPMs each time the car comes to a stop. How about this, were you even WILLING to take the car out for a drive!?!?!? You handed me that piece of paper with the 2 codes and sent me off to Brand Benson Mitsubishi (another topic you also conveniently avoided).

Bottom line is, you did the bare minimum. You saw my SES light, grabbed the codes, translated their meaning, and told me the rest was my problem. Did you even offer to check if it's possible you guys could have caused any of my symptoms? Did you even just offer to check THE PARTS YOU WORKED ON OR HAD TO REMOVE? (ie. IC pipes, BOV-to-throttle body pipe, any loose axles, etc etc) God forbid the mighty Turbotrix would possibly make an error like forget to tighten a bolt or leave a hose unclamped. Only lowly peon know-nothings like myself could ever commit such a careless mistake right?

If I wanted what you did for me done, I could have gone to Autozone, not 10 blocks from my house, gotten the codes scanned and looked up their meaning in Chilton's. I'll say this much to you. If you guys had even entertained me by putting the car on the lift, inspecting the areas you touched for the clutch job, and confirming everything was A-OK on that end, I would absolutely be willing to accept that my car running strangely after the install was just mere coincidence. But you know what? You didn't. You wouldn't even take the car any further into your shop than the entrance where the scan tool was located. You wouldn't even drive it to listen for the noise I was talking about. You were so absolutely positive that you guys had done nothing wrong, despite the fact that you yourself neither worked on nor test drove my vehicle. Then in the end you offer to send my car to Brad Benson Mitsubishi. That makes real sense. You guys did the work, you're not willing to look over YOUR OWN work, and you want a dealer to do that. And on top of things YOU LIED to me and my friend dead in our faces. "Brad Benson Mitsubishi hates us, they would never give us any favor". Were those not your words?

At this point it isn't even about the quality (or lack thereof) in your worksmanship. It's about how you treat your customers AFTER they already hand you their money and trust. Much like my 2 threads you so kindly posted a link to, THIS too is another lesson learned for me. I will continue to take, and encourage others to take, their business elsewhere.

-Mike

TantrumSKID
12-20-2005, 06:52 PM
Oh and to reply to DSSA, you're entitled to your opinion and you can defend whoever you like. But the fact of the matter is, I did not BLAME anyone. I merely asked if they would inspect their work for possible minor/major mistakes. I don't know much about the procedure of clutch removal and installation, but I do know this much is fact. Some hoses/pipes/bolts DO need to come out right? Just based on the fact that it was a HUMAN not a robot who installed it, there's no possibility something was accidently left out, untightened, misaligned? Is that unreasonable of me? And after being denied even such a basic form of customer courtesy am I wrong to feel mistreated and suspectful?

-Mike

JNZTuning
12-20-2005, 07:46 PM
Oh and to reply to DSSA, you're entitled to your opinion and you can defend whoever you like. But the fact of the matter is, I did not BLAME anyone. I merely asked if they would inspect their work for possible minor/major mistakes. I don't know much about the procedure of clutch removal and installation, but I do know this much is fact. Some hoses/pipes/bolts DO need to come out right? Just based on the fact that it was a HUMAN not a robot who installed it, there's no possibility something was accidently left out, untightened, misaligned? Is that unreasonable of me? And after being denied even such a basic form of customer courtesy am I wrong to feel mistreated and suspectful?

-Mike

It's not a matter of defending another business, it's a matter of looking at logic.

You've stated that you're not mechanically inclined

You've stated that you "went over the car with your mechanic friend to check for anything loose/mis-adjusted" (obviously you would have proclaimed it if you he had found anything).

You've stated that "the 02 sensor replacement" was a success. (No check engine light after you replaced what they told you was the problem, I presume?)

You've stated that the car shifts fine after a little driving.

You've stated that they explained your driveline decel noise to you.

You've stated that they ran the scan-tool on your car and told you what the problem was when you brought it back to them. (Like most people in this profession would know, you don't have to touch the 02 sensor or the plug for it on a transmission R&R).

So, they looked it over, diagnosed it for you for free when it wasn't something that they could have caused, and explained that driveline decel noises are sometimes had when using certain clutches.

Then, after this, when you still weren't happy, they offered for you to take it to the Mitsu Dealership nearest them and pay for the service department to check/fix any thing that they had caused (Sales departments (I.E., "Selling a car with Staged Upgrades) and Service Departments (detesting when modified cars come in, and are always more than happy to blame it on "aftermarket performance parts" as the culprit).

So, with all of the above listed out, what is your actual gripe? I'm seriously missing it (and not saying that to be a dick, but what else did you want?).

Take the car to another place that knows DSMs, have them fix your issues, then tell them the evidence that they found indicating where Turbotrix screwed up, and that you'd like them to pay for the damages that they caused.

Otherwise, I'm not seeing what more you wanted them to do once they figured out what was causing the CEL (02, and unless they decided that since it was Christmas and they'd throw one in that was bad that they had lying around the shop for free, it wasn't caused by them). And I'm sure Keith checked over the upper IC pipe and connections when you brought it back right after your appointment.

So your whole gripe is just that they didn't put the car back up on the lift and go over the job bolt-by-bolt with you standing there?

I'm missing something somewhere, or you're not explaining your exact gripe...

shabby
12-20-2005, 07:53 PM
So basically this whole thread is about your idle being higher, right? Because the clutch noise is normal and your o2 sensor actually was dead. So was this "terrible experience" review really needed?
This is one of the reasons that specialty shops hate newbies, one little thing is wrong and you blab about it on the internet like someone raped you. Maybe you should of went to autozone to change your clutch.

If turbotrix removed your ic pipes theres a chance that when put back it created a boost leak and caused your higher idle.

FourG63 98GST
12-20-2005, 09:02 PM
That is NOT the proper way to adjust the idle on our cars. You need to ground 2 pins then turn the BISS screw to set idle although most people can shortcut it and it may work on some cars half the time. Other cars definitely don't like this as his demonstrated.



There is no harm adjusting the idle by turning the BISS screw when engine is on. Point is either way works, but the way you demonstrated is probably for those who want to be 100% sure of what there doing. You cant go wrong with either way. But the fact that the thread starter blames that on half of his problems, it doesnt seem to be the cause of the problems.

Calling the thread starter a newbie and other names is not even right. He is coming here explaining his experience he had with a vendor. Reading through his post, he basiclaly took the time to write up every detail so no info is left out.

Thanks again for sharing your experience, Ill stick to Extreme PSI for my needs.

shabby
12-20-2005, 09:30 PM
By newbie i meant he wasnt mechanically inclined as he stated himself, this really was a tiny little problem that was blown out of proportion.

TantrumSKID
12-20-2005, 10:05 PM
To DSSA:

You're SURE Keith checked my IC pipes? Pretty bold statement for someone who isn't or was never involved. How about you ask him yourself. This much I know for a fact, the bumper has to be removed to even access the IC pipes. THIS NEVER OCCURED ON MY FIRST OR SECOND RETURN TRIP. And unless Keith has concealed superhuman x-ray vision that I'm not aware of, this never occured. Yes I did go over it with my friend, and NO HE IS NOT A MECHANIC. I never once said he was, it was Mark (in his previous post) that called him a "Taurus Mechanic". I only mentioned that he was very mechanically knowledgable, at least far more than myself. He has lots of general knowledge about automobiles, and is able to do almost any work his SHO needs exclusively on his own. Second, you state they looked it over and diagnosed it for me? Yes they told me what my codes my SES was throwing and what the probable cause was. How about explaining to me why my car idled just fine when it entered the shop and as soon as I drove it five blocks, my idle was ass high? Let's talk about BISS screws as well. Putting aside the debate of whether or not u can adjust a BISS on-the-fly debate for a moment, WHY WOULD MY BISS BE THE CULPRIT for the initial high idle? Did u adjust it to do the clutch? Probably not right? So why would you need to adjust it AFTER? Did it magically adjust itself? And my recirc kit from HKS was 2nd to blame? It has been on there for more than 2yrs without a fault. I have not heard nor have found any info on HKS recalling any type of "faulty/defective recirc kit". And somehow THAT was the cause too? You're making it sound like they made any kind of effort to diagnose or ease my concerns other than hooking up a scantool. Fine, scantool told you what the SES threw. What about the other problems? Yes O2 sensor (so far) has prevented SES from coming back, but what about my idle issue? It hasn't fixed that has it. Second, my concern about the clutch sounds. Have YOU heard the noise? Have YOU driven the car? How come no other 2G DSMs with SPEC clutches have complained about this issue? How come Martin at SpeedFactor who I spoke to several times after the install and who deal mostly with SPEC installations in DSMs have NEVER heard of a customer complaining about these symptoms? Turbotrix who does ONE SPEC install, on a Subaru at that mind you, claims that it's normal... when the people who install SPEC clutches all day long say it isn't. Who am I supposed to believe? You can tell me what MR2 guys say until you're blue in the face. The fact of the matter is I DON'T DRIVE AN MR2. I drive a 2G DSM and 2G DSM guys with these clutches don't have the same problem as me. I'm not saying EVERY 2G SPEC owner is happy, but at the very least, they're not unhappy for the same reasons I am. They're not complaining of the noises I hear from my driveline. They're unhappy for other reasons. I defy you to find info on a 2G SPEC STAGE II owner who says their car creates a wobble, vibration, metal on metal sounding noise other than myself.

To shabby:

Same questions as above. You claim it's normal FINE. Do you yourself own a SPEC Stage II? Do you have the credibility of saying "We install them all the time on DSMs and never heard a customer come back with that kind of problem...(Martin)". Do you have the credibility to dispute the fact that there are many many people satisfied with their SPEC clutches? Don't believe there are, search on Tuners. It's ok if you call me a newb. I am. I don't feel ashamed, we all start somwhere. Unless you were born with a shop manual in your hands, you were a newb at one time too. Doesn't bother me in the least.

Finally, the whole BISS debate. I'd just like to say this much. VFAQ, Chilton's, Haynes, and even the official Mitsubishi Eclipse Service Manual, all of which I now have copies of, say you need a scantool or a groundout. Those of you that say it worked for you, fine. But if that was the right way, why would these certified venues dedicate a whole section on how to do it right? Could it be possible that the on-the-fly way doesn't work for EVERY CAR? And that some cars will react poorly to it? And just to clarify, since when did 'adjusting' mean BOTTOMING OUT?

-Mike

TantrumSKID
12-20-2005, 10:28 PM
Sorry for creating a seperate post, but as the board doesn't allow editing of a post after 10 mins, I had no choice.

Initially before Keith touched my BISS or made his tube adapter thing, it was exclusively idling HIGH (1100 RPM range). Now, it will sometimes idle high, sometimes idle dangerously low, and sometimes idle at the normal 750 range. Each one of these is isolated, meaning it's either steady high, steady low, or steady normal. It does not surge. Also, I still have no confirmation as to what the hell that noise is other than what Turbotrix has told me, and what a bunch of non-SPEC owning bystanders have claimed as normal. When I can afford to (financially and time wise) I will find another shop to help me diagnose these 2 problems. The fact of the matter is this, my car even after replacing the O2 is still idling all kinds of wacky. Could the dead O2 been a coincidental problem? Possibly. Could whatever malfunction that caused the initial high idle have lead to the O2 malfunction? I'd like to think that's possible too. Could I be so unlucky that I got the ONE defective clutch from SPEC that Martin has ever sold? Possibly as well. Could Turbotrix have made a mistake that lead to BOTH of these problems? According to some, impossible I guess... :rolleyes:

11secdsm
12-20-2005, 10:34 PM
Take a breath. I can understand that you are frustrated because things are acting up on your car. Now obviously none of us can vouch for what was actually done to your car, but you have to understand the symptoms you have explained in great depth seam to be very coincidental concidering a clutch job was done. When you install pretty much any aftermarket clutch you have a chance of getting driveline noise...both on engagment and on decel....it's just something you'll learn to deal with. As for your idle problem...does it surge up and down when you are sitting still? It could be one of many things...boost leak, faulty ISC, etc. FYI...you don't need to remove the bumper to check your intercooler pipes. As for the BISS issue, all the literature you will find will most likely say that you need to ground out or use a scan tool...you just have to understand that it can be done with out either of those...it just works and it will not harm anything. I'm not taking sides here at all...I have dealt with Keith in the past and he is VERY knowledgable with DSMs...especially with transmissions considering he used to rebuild them back at BM Tranny. The syptoms that you are experiencing and the service you got just don't add up. I know it's tough to keep an open mind in a situation like this, but it comes down coincidence for the most part.

treebonker
12-21-2005, 03:02 AM
you just have to understand that it can be done with out either of those...it just works and it will not harm anything. .


Ummmm no.
Just a quick search , not the best but explains well enough.
http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39011
You could search,read and learn why there is a specific precedure on this subject and how the BISS interacts with the ISC when there is a possibilty for spreading misinformation.

Not the best example but I guess one could compare this as advancing your CAS all the way to correct your timing and losing the safety margin for the ecu to pull timing when knocking.The outcome won't be catastrophic but some will experience idle problems adjusting it this way. If not, great. But I wouldn't want to say it is ok to shortcut it without telling the bad side.

-treebonker

treebonker
12-21-2005, 03:13 AM
The gripe he has is how he was treated when he had problems after the clutch install whether or not it has any relations to his problems. Afterall he drove back there to find out what the problem was.

I would guess the car wasn't properly checked as he says d/t the way TTR ridicules ones intelligence on cars and the absolutism TTR has shown in this thread that their clutch job had nothing to do with his problems. Maybe he acted like an a$$ maybe a hose popped loose maybe the sensor connectors were damaged during IDK. $hit happens.

I would like to believe most named shops-shops ppl drive XXXmiles for-will look for other obvious things first when someone has a sudden high idle issue before deciding to conveniently turn a screw. If not, O'well more reason for us to work on our cars.

Merry Christmas :)
-treebonker

diambo4life
12-21-2005, 05:13 AM
There is no harm adjusting the idle by turning the BISS screw when engine is on. Point is either way works, but the way you demonstrated is probably for those who want to be 100% sure of what there doing. .


Where did I say there was harm doing it with the engine on? How else can you adjust it? The point is, it's NOT the correct way to adjust the base idle, period. Just because you can do it another way and it "works" doesn't mean it's correct. :confused:

You are free to look up the VFAQ or the FSM on the proper way to adjust idle speed. It doesn't take too long to do it correctly - just ground the ignition and diagnostic terminal, less than one minute!

FourG63 98GST
12-21-2005, 05:53 AM
Where did I say there was harm doing it with the engine on? How else can you adjust it? The point is, it's NOT the correct way to adjust the base idle, period. Just because you can do it another way and it "works" doesn't mean it's correct. :confused:

You are free to look up the VFAQ or the FSM on the proper way to adjust idle speed. It doesn't take too long to do it correctly - just ground the ignition and diagnostic terminal, less than one minute!

Quit being a f-ing dick about it. How are you going to try to teach me what i can or cant do..or what is the proper way. The point is more than half of the DSM'ers adjust the idle by just turning while motor is on. Its not a big f-ing deal. You need to reread the whole thread again. This thread isnt titled "Is turning the BISS screw while motor on improper?"..read it over one more time. The thread starter obviously was blaming the noises he was hearing because he believes that the problems occured after the clutch job & the guy messing with his idle. All i was saying is that there is no harm, there are a few more people on this same thread who even agreed with me about turning the BISS while engine is on. So do yourself a favor, quit trolling the boards thinking you are a perfect DSM'er..cause your far from it.

diambo4life
12-21-2005, 06:23 AM
Quit being a f-ing dick about it. How are you going to try to teach me what i can or cant do..or what is the proper way. The point is more than half of the DSM'ers adjust the idle by just turning while motor is on. Its not a big f-ing deal. You need to reread the whole thread again. This thread isnt titled "Is turning the BISS screw while motor on improper?"..read it over one more time. The thread starter obviously was blaming the noises he was hearing because he believes that the problems occured after the clutch job & the guy messing with his idle. All i was saying is that there is no harm, there are a few more people on this same thread who even agreed with me about turning the BISS while engine is on. So do yourself a favor, quit trolling the boards thinking you are a perfect DSM'er..cause your far from it.

I'm being a fucking dick because an idiot (ie. you) misread a concise post of mine. It's not my fault you lack the proper comprehension skills and can NOT read what appears on your monitor. I do not pay anyone to work on my car. I have done EVERYTHING on it myself - unlike YOU. So do not give me your stupid attitude. You do turn the BISS with the car on (who disagreed with that moron?), you just need to ground the IGN and DIAG term. first. There's a reason why the Mitsubishi engineers (who are smarter than you) came up with that protocol. I ALSO stated that some cars work fine when it's not done this way (read my first post again,) but others have issues. His could have been one of them. There's a fucking good reason why my car RUNS unlike half the newbie halfwits on this board. Why? I follow everything to the T and don't shortcut BS like this. So do me a favor and STFU! If you have a problem, PM me.

TurbotrixRacing
12-21-2005, 07:48 AM
The bottom line is this ...

the kid paid us to do clutch job, we did just that. His car idled fine and he threw two codes when it was brought back the other day. I scanned it for free and told him what it was. I dont carry front o2 sensors for a 2g otherwise i would of put it in right there. I knew what the problem was , but he just didnt want to accept the fact that his O2 sensor could of gone bad.

I asked him .. if he pulled out of the shop and got a flat on the way home .. would that be my fault as well ? OR if his timing tensioner went bad .. i would assume my fault as well.

I spent probably 1.5 hrs with this kid explaining what the code was... he leaves then comes back with a taurus mechanic .. who tied me up for another 1hr. .

So in the end.... 2.5 hrs later of me explaining this ... he goes to pepboys buys an O2 sensor and fixes his codes..

Then you go home post a 9 page thread on how excited you were to " unleash the power of your dsm " ... and how i screwed you. Your o2 sensor went bad .. deal with it. Your car is 7yrs old .. sensors will break. God forbid if your idle motor is bad .. im sure you can find a way to blame me for that one as well. If you honeslty think your 7 yr old dsm has 35k original miles on it .. I have some ocean front property to sell you in colorado ...

Mark
Turbotrix

greenstreak
12-21-2005, 08:10 AM
Like most vendor reviews this is now turning into bickering. The original poster expressed his side of the story and Mark did the same. Arguing how to set idle or what a bad O2 sensor is getting old.