bleeding slave [Archive] - DSM Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum: DSMtalk.com

: bleeding slave


zoomin
04-24-2006, 10:18 PM
Hi all. i installed a new master cyl into my 92 esi yesterday and bled the system today, for some reason it just wont bleed rite. the procedure i did was like bleeding brakes with an assistant. pump up the clutch, hold it down, i open the bleeder, bleed it into a container 1/4 full of dot4 (so it doesnt get air intake) with a hose, close her up and then repeat...did this till the whole system was running fresh clean dot4. but everytime i start her up and try to put her in gear the clutch never disengages. one thing i have noticed is that it feels like the pedal is hald dead, like you can life it up with your foot, push and it feels like its dead, then half way it engages. so i blead them by pulling it up all the way and pumping it like that, still no better... what am i missing?

thanks
victor

mikeeey1981
04-24-2006, 11:17 PM
you have to refill the master cylinder with brake fluid using a bench vice...i just did this and had the same problem....if you dont refill the master cylinder with fluid, it just keeps pumping air into the system...take it out, fill it up, then bleed the system

Gordian79
04-24-2006, 11:22 PM
you have to refill the master cylinder with brake fluid using a bench vice...i just did this and had the same problem....if you dont refill the master cylinder with fluid, it just keeps pumping air into the system...take it out, fill it up, then bleed the system


whats a bench vice?

zoomin
04-25-2006, 12:01 AM
wow...so i gotta take that bitch out...damn, thats a bitch. so how do i fill it using a bench vise? no instructions came with it and i guess my hayes manual neglected to mention that...

thanks
victor

mikeeey1981
04-25-2006, 09:18 AM
whats a bench vice?


are you joking?

mikeeey1981
04-25-2006, 09:19 AM
wow...so i gotta take that bitch out...damn, thats a bitch. so how do i fill it using a bench vise? no instructions came with it and i guess my hayes manual neglected to mention that...

thanks
victor

you have to have the resivoir hooked up still, then compress the rod so it sucks in the fluid...its really easy

oldman
04-25-2006, 09:42 AM
To the original poster, your clutch pedal linkage is worn and needs to be replaced or welded. This is a very common problem with 1g clutch pedals, almost all of them will need fixing soon or later, sooner with a heavier aftermarket clutch.

zoomin
04-25-2006, 10:41 AM
well when i am bleeding it why wouldnt the cylinder fill up with fluid? there is fresh fluid comming out the slave so i am assuming it has fully cycled out the old shit and is just bleeding out the frest fluid...when you say compress the shaft so it fills up, would that be when im pressing down on the pedal?

Im going to climb under there to see if i can move the pedal while holding the linkage to the clutch master, if i can then this means my clutch pedal assy needs replacing/welding? how much of a bitch will that be to get out? is there a tech article on this anywhere?

thanks
victor

Budwsr
04-25-2006, 12:15 PM
the easiest way to bleed brakes or any hydrolics is to get a clear container
along enough hose that slips over the bleeder screw. and some brake fluid. attach the tubing or hose over the bleeder screw. The other end place in a jar or a small clear container. make sure the hose is near the bottom of the jar, fill the jar about half way with brake fluid. Place hose in jar. at this point you can loosen the bleeder screw. Make sure the Master cylindal res. is full if this emtpies you will have to repeat the process. ya can bleed you brakes and clutch with one person. just use your hand to pump the clutch or brakes ( whatever one your using, if your doing with brakes start at the farthest point from the master and do one at a time) keep doing this and filling the res till you see no more air bubbles come out. Hope this helps

Gordian79
04-25-2006, 01:05 PM
whats a bench vice?






I just didnt understand your procedure

jjrock5
04-25-2006, 02:27 PM
You might have to adjust the clutch from under the dash. This happened to me when I installed a new slave. All it is is an adjusting nut on a shaft thats connectted to the main reservoir. Its under the dash, just follow the clutch pedal and you will see it.The procedure is also in the Haynes manual. Hope this helps.

zoomin
04-25-2006, 03:34 PM
if your talking about the shaft that comes out of the master and is linked to the clutch pedal, i have that all the way backed out (to the end of the shaft) this gives it the greatest throw, no? im gonna go play around with it now and see whats up, and post in a few.

thanks for all the help so far
victor

zoomin
04-25-2006, 10:07 PM
k, well i went out and played around with it... yes the clutch has some play while the linkage stays still but at about 50% it does act like a clutch and push the rod in, so i backed off the joint till it was almost off, then turned it back 1 rotation and tightened the nut onto it, now it works and goes into gear... shifting into second could be better but it will do for now...untill i get a chance to get another clutch linkeage and some time to install it. anyone have a tech article about this...or welding up my current one?

thanks for the help
victor

jjrock5
04-26-2006, 10:32 AM
listen, the best way to get rid of the play in a clutch pedal, and low clutch engagement, without having to TAKE OUT THE WHOLE PEDAL ASSEMBLY AND WELDING IT, is to just either install a longer shaft of the slave cylinder or welding a nut at the end of it, this will push the fork in more therefore getting rid of low engagement. :cool:

zoomin
04-26-2006, 09:30 PM
sounds like a good idea but im just afraid that later on the play will increase more and more till one day (and with my luck its gonna be when i need to get somewhere) my clutch wont engage. i will probably make up a longer slave rod when i get access to a lathe but untill then i just hope it holds out on me.

thanks for the help guys
victor

snowboardguy151
04-27-2006, 12:57 PM
You will have to take the assembly out to weld or replace it. The job takes a while but its the best bet so you don't get stranded on the side of the road...

This (http://www.ecanfix.com/users/mdhamilton/autotomanual.html) is an auto to manual conversion page but he pulls out the pedal assembly (which is what you will have to do...).

This (http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150383) is a thread on info to weld the assy...

This (http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146560) is a thread on the extension rod. Last entry is of intrest. :)

This (http://teamrip.com/clutch%20adjustment.html) is just a good clutch adjustment page. Here (http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm) also...

jjrock5
04-27-2006, 01:17 PM
Man, this great stuff, and I thought I knew what I was talking about, I think IM gonna start using some of these tips. Thanks for the info. :cool:

oldman
04-27-2006, 01:40 PM
k, well i went out and played around with it... yes the clutch has some play while the linkage stays still but at about 50% it does act like a clutch and push the rod in, so i backed off the joint till it was almost off, then turned it back 1 rotation and tightened the nut onto it, now it works and goes into gear... shifting into second could be better but it will do for now...untill i get a chance to get another clutch linkeage and some time to install it. anyone have a tech article about this...or welding up my current one?

thanks for the help
victor
Victor, you're not checking it properly. Step on the clutch and let it come up by itself then pull on it after it stops. If you're able to pull the pedal up more, the pedal is worned and needs welding. Welding a nut to the master or using a extended slave push rod will shorten the life of both master and slave cylinders and will probably not do much if in fact the assembly is worn out. The issue with a worn pedal is not how far you're able to push, it's how far the pedal retracts in order to get a full stroke to generate maximum pressure in the system. Think of it as a golf swing or a tennis stroke, full swing and power goes hand in hand.

oldman
04-27-2006, 01:54 PM
Here are some tech articles on the subject.

Article 1 (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=156805)
Article 2 (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96981)

Both are awesome write ups and should be all that you'll need. Good luck.