Quick question about BG I syncroshift not II... [Archive] - DSM Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum: DSMtalk.com

: Quick question about BG I syncroshift not II...


AWD_4g63
04-28-2006, 09:03 PM
Ok well im installing my ACT 2600 clutch and Fidanza Flywheel and while im at it im going to check the fork and ball, while its off i will lube the joint, if needed i will replace. Next i ordered a OEM Slave cylinder just to do it while i was doing the SS Clutch line i ordered should i leave or take the restricter out? its just under the banjo bolt correct (use a magnet to pull that and the spring out?) anything you can think of?

My MAIN QUESTION is i ordered BG syncroshift I apposed to II becasue it was about 5$ cheaper a quart and i didnt feel like spending another 15-20 just on fluid for II, is anyone running "I", is it anygood?

jmakado
04-28-2006, 11:48 PM
The 1 is fine. It's just not synthetic. I have used Royal Purple, BG2 and am now running Amsoil and I honestly can't tell a difference between them. The Amsoil seems to be a little thicker when cold, but other than that I can't really tell.

mavrik95gst
04-30-2006, 07:15 PM
I also agree with using 1. Think carefully before you pull the restrictor. It will make your clutch engage/disengage faster, but it will also make it difficult in traffic. Clutch wants to engage really fast and will be harder to control in stop and go traffic.

AWD_4g63
04-30-2006, 07:42 PM
I also agree with using 1. Think carefully before you pull the restrictor. It will make your clutch engage/disengage faster, but it will also make it difficult in traffic. Clutch wants to engage really fast and will be harder to control in stop and go traffic.

My car isnt used for daily driving or even weekend driving...i only drive it once mabye twice every 2 weeks or so. So the restrictor wont matter will it? im thinking the engaging and disengaging will be quicker with it gone and a possible chance it will help in the 1/4 mile passes as for which the car is used for mostly. And is the restrictor where i mentioned?

And so should i use the 1, as its not synthetic? or should i send it back and get 2? Whats the factroy require synthetic or non?

mavrik95gst
04-30-2006, 08:01 PM
My car isnt used for daily driving or even weekend driving...i only drive it once mabye twice every 2 weeks or so. So the restrictor wont matter will it? im thinking the engaging and disengaging will be quicker with it gone and a possible chance it will help in the 1/4 mile passes as for which the car is used for mostly. And is the restrictor where i mentioned?

And so should i use the 1, as its not synthetic? or should i send it back and get 2? Whats the factroy require synthetic or non?

Yes, the restrictor is under the banjo bolt. You are going to notice a difference in clutch engagement by just doing the ss line. You might want to try it that way first before pulling the restrictor, if it is not fast enough then go ahead and pull away.

As for the quarter mile difference, I really couldn't tell you. I usually road race my car so shifting fast or quick launching really don't affect me.

Check here for restrictor placement on 2g (http://www.roadraceengineering.com/instructions/clutch/clutchline-install03.jpg)

AWD_4g63
04-30-2006, 09:49 PM
Ok thanks, so now what about the BG? go ahead and use 1 or send them back and get 2? does the trans require a synthetic fluid?

and whats the proper steps to bleading the clutch system after installing the SS Line and new OEM slave cylinder i ordered? thanks guys

mavrik95gst
04-30-2006, 10:22 PM
Ok thanks, so now what about the BG? go ahead and use 1 or send them back and get 2? does the trans require a synthetic fluid?

and whats the proper steps to bleading the clutch system after installing the SS Line and new OEM slave cylinder i ordered? thanks guys


I ran with the BG 1 in my trans for about 30k miles with lots of open track time. As long you are starting with a good transmission, you will be good with the BG1.

As for bleeding the clutch, unless you have access to a power bleeder you will need a friend to help push the clutch pedal down while you open and close the bleeder. Best to start with taking out all the old fluid from the clutch master and filling with fresh fluid. Then bleed clutch until you get no bubbles in the line. Clear line works best for that. Keep in mind that our clutch pedal has a spring to help push the clutch in, so everytime the person in the car pushes in the clutch, it will have to be pulled back up by hand.

AWD_4g63
05-01-2006, 06:46 AM
I ran with the BG 1 in my trans for about 30k miles with lots of open track time. As long you are starting with a good transmission, you will be good with the BG1.

As for bleeding the clutch, unless you have access to a power bleeder you will need a friend to help push the clutch pedal down while you open and close the bleeder. Best to start with taking out all the old fluid from the clutch master and filling with fresh fluid. Then bleed clutch until you get no bubbles in the line. Clear line works best for that. Keep in mind that our clutch pedal has a spring to help push the clutch in, so everytime the person in the car pushes in the clutch, it will have to be pulled back up by hand.

ok whats this i read about bench bleading the master cylinder? i understand the basics on bleading a system (brakes, clutch exc) but im confused otherwise :o

mavrik95gst
05-01-2006, 07:43 AM
ok whats this i read about bench bleading the master cylinder? i understand the basics on bleading a system (brakes, clutch exc) but im confused otherwise :o

You shouldn't need to worry about that this time. I have never needed to bench bleed our clutch master cylinder.

Here is what you need to do to bench bleed a master cylinder. Connect the master cylinder up to where it needs to be but do not connect the lines to the rest of the system. Use a small tube from the lines that would go out from the master into the reservoir of the master fill and start pumping. Your once dry master cylinder will now have no air in it and be ready to hook up the rest of the system and start bleeding as normal.

daren_p
05-01-2006, 09:18 AM
If you are replacing the slave, I found it helps to bleed the slave first. You do this operating the slave in the opposite direction compared how you normally bleed the clutch. Put abit of pressure on the slave, open the bleeder, press the slave in, close the bleeder. I did this first to fill the slave then bleed the system like normal after that.

Turbocharged
05-01-2006, 10:23 AM
I have had better results using BG II. I am currently running BG I (RRE sent me the wrong fluids) but I am switching back to II next time I change my engine oil. Keep in mind that transmission fluid doesnt just affect performance, it also affects longevity.

RippinGSX
05-01-2006, 10:25 AM
BG is good stuff.

AWD_4g63
05-01-2006, 11:33 AM
You shouldn't need to worry about that this time. I have never needed to bench bleed our clutch master cylinder.

Here is what you need to do to bench bleed a master cylinder. Connect the master cylinder up to where it needs to be but do not connect the lines to the rest of the system. Use a small tube from the lines that would go out from the master into the reservoir of the master fill and start pumping. Your once dry master cylinder will now have no air in it and be ready to hook up the rest of the system and start bleeding as normal.

ok so you mean to put some fluid in the slave cylinder before hooking it up, and then push the little rod in and open the bleeder screw? :o

mavrik95gst
05-01-2006, 12:41 PM
ok so you mean to put some fluid in the slave cylinder before hooking it up, and then push the little rod in and open the bleeder screw? :o

Some people would say to reverse bleed it that way. I will leave the choice up to you however, remember that you will still have the air from an empty line between the master and slave that will put air back into the slave.

IMO - reverse bleeding the slave is not going to save anything. :(

Montivious
05-01-2006, 12:59 PM
Although BG I will be fine, I canít believe that with the investment in parts and hardware that you have $20.00 persuaded you from buying BG II. In the grand scheme of things whatís twenty bucks if not for anything than the piece of mind.

I digress, with that out of the way BG I will work just great. I personally run a redline BG mix that I find best for my application.

Good Luck