nitrious and boost

[pressurized300zx]

First, NO, not using n2o as a spool-up. Yes, I have searched the archives and found nothing pertaining to what I want to know. My question is; I need to know how to properly setup a dsm to spray n2o on the top-end. How do you retard the timing when the bottle is on? Is my 255 high pressure pump enough to supply both, 660's and a wet setup with fuel? I know about the elementary stuff, I want to hear from some people that actually run n2o and boost together. The big name boys aren't talking.

[Rdy2race]

well to answer your fuel Q. The limits of the feed of the system is the problem. not the pump. Will the fuel feed system get enough pressure on top?? I don't know. how much power are we talking. you can down tune to anything but why should you. So what I am saying is deal with your problem one part at a time. Lets start out with the combo and what your looking out of it. For the most part the FIRST problem will be supply not timing advancement.

With out a full out stand aong computer I don't think that you will be able to drop timming ONLY on the top end that is a big task to ask for something that doesn't have a option input for another verable to change the tune of a ECU.

Out line the max power ( on the bottle ) that your going for and we will see what we can dig up as for info for ya.

BM-

[ProjectGSX]

Originally posted by Rdy2race
well to answer your fuel Q. The limits of the feed of the system is the problem. not the pump. Will the fuel feed system get enough pressure on top??

It would seem the wya to go about adding NOS to a turbod car.. would be to first get all of the other power mods in place. Get the proper engine mangement system installed and tuned properly. Make sure the A/F ratio is proper throught the powerband, in all situations.

At that point, as long as you have the additional fuel capacity, NOS wont be a problem.

The Venom system says that it monitors the A/F ratio and adds fuel as necessary. This sounds a bit hokey to me. Unless it comes with a wide band o2 sensor, anyways. We all know that our factory o2 sensors are not accurate enough to do an auto-tune system like they claim to have.

[dyezak]

Question #1 (spray on top end): EZ, just use RPM switches...one to turn it on and one to turn it off (say 5000-7000) MSD sells them.

Question #2 (retard ignition on bottle): EZ, just get a spark retarder (MSD) usually sold for aftermarket turbo/supercharger to retard ig. on boost. Just have it set up to retard off your same RPM switches.

Quetion #3 (fuel supply): Wow, deep one here guy. There are plenty of formulas to determine your injector fuel demand based on Fuel Pressure. Then find the flow rate of your feed line. Then you would know if you have maxed out your feed line (or pump) with just your 660's. If you havent maxed out it would let you know how much fuel you could safely add for NOS. Barring all the phisics, my advice is to be judicious with your implemintation with boost and NOS and watch your a/f ratios as well as ex temps. Keep adding more boost/NOS untill your a/f ratios (ex temps) start going up and then back off a little from there just for safety. But you could figure it out mathmaticly, simple flow dynamics.

[Rdy2race]

Dyezak
Q1 that won't work unless the word " top end " is misleading. he/she is talking about No2 in 3ed-4th gear not RPM dependent. I COULD make that work but is involved.

Q2 agaion same as above but in this case this might work if he uses a manuial trigger and not a WOT trigger. PS that MSD box your talking about is called a "soft touch" as it retards not cuts timming so you don't cut spark load up on No2 doesn't fire ( no spark ) loads again with No2 and then fires!! head pops off!! :D


Q3 What I mean is the lines. the 660s make more then enough power for most And the Injectors will not effect the bottle since the fuel is jetted with the No2 in a wet system ( I wouldn't use a dry system at any top end pulls. )

[dyezak]

Q1...ok I was confused on that one... Poster are you wanting to add in specific gear...or rpm range (both can be done).

Q2...no, there's a difference between a soft touch and the box I'm explaining...here's MSD's description:
The 3-Stage Retard Control allows you to retard your ignition timing in three different stages. You can activate one retard for a nitrous stage and another at top end in high gear for more mph and still have another module left over for dual stage nitrous systems. When activated together, the retard amounts are cumulative so you get the total of the three. For example. if you pull 2°, then 4° on the second stage and another 2° at top end, the total retard is 8°. In addition to the individual retard stages, the Three Stage Retard Control has an optional start retard function that retards the timing 20° while cranking the engine. This makes staring high compression engines with locked-out timing, such as crank trigger systems, much easier. Connects easily to your MSD Ignition and can be triggered from points, electronic ignitions, crank triggers or magnetic pickup distributors. Supplied with a 2°, 3° and 4° module and must be used with and MSD 6, 7, 8 or 10 Series Ignition.
It's an addon to an MSD ignition.

Q3...yea, I'm right with ya on the line thing. I just wanted to explain that you can determine (based on fuel used by injectors) if your line is maxxed out or not.

So poster, clear up Q1 for us. RPM range or specific gears?

TNX

[pressurized300zx]

Thanx for the info so far; now, I want to run n20 from say 3500rpm's in third, fourth, and fifth gears, running right up until I get ready to change to the next higher gear. I've pulled up a fuel system upgrade from the archives already, the author detailed how to change the fuel lines from the tank to the fuel rail with;I believe,#8 lines, so that will get done. As far as my horsepower goals, I am shooting for 400-425(flywheel), I purposely sized the injectors on the large side(can't 550's support that much hp?), so that I could have a fuel reserve, cuz as you all know you always want more power. For right now I'm using a ported and clipped 18G, with supporting mods, I'm changing to a full 3" exhaust, fmic, and built bottom end, ie...eagle rods, je pistons. I'm also leaning towards the hks 272 cams, intake/exhaust. I'm trying to stay away from a stand alone, but I'm looking into the LINK system, I wanted to do this with my factory ecu, that TRE afc-masc, and my s-afc...think it can be done? this car is a street car that will be basically daily driven, and I plan to run it on the nurnburgring and at hockenheim on the open track days(yes, I'm in Germany), the nitrious is for those twinturbo porsches and lamborghini's that I see on the autobahn every now and then. My horsepower quotes above was for motor only. I'm thinking 50 shot of n2o, maybe 75 max.Thanx guyz/girlz.

[niterydr]

you'll defentily want to go with 272 degree duration cams..you'll need to get rid of the exhaust and take in air in deep gulps and quickly at that!!! I was wondering if its possible to set up a 75hp shot of nos on a dry system on a dsm? Anyone, anyone, bueller? I was thinking of using the nos as kinda spool up method (have it cut out at 4k) but if i can set it up as a dry system would i have to worry about fuel (since it comes w/its own injectors) i dunno the nos is a long was off..first comes the mutt 5.

[pressurized300zx]

Originally posted by dyezak
So poster, clear up Q1 for us. RPM range or specific gears?

TNX I'm looking to spray rpm range(3500-7000rpms). This is my line of thought, correct me if I'm wrong; I was wanting to use a throttle activated switch(tps) for the actual introduction of the "juice". Since I have a fwd I figured I would have a master switch to activate the entire system, meaning if the switch isn't "on", you don't get sprayed when you go to wot. That way I could flip the switch "on" once I'm in third, and spray when i go to wot. I don't need to spray in first or second(too much wheel spin already).Thanx for all the help.

[dyezak]

OK, thats ez to do. Use the switch like you were planning (arming switch, to turn on in 2nd or 3rd) and add your WOT switch on the TB. Also have 2 more switches...RPM switches, one to close a circuit at say 3000 RPM's and one to open the circuit at 7000 RPM's. Your problems are solved. I belive MSD sells the switch for like $20, but you have to use them with their ignition (I think). Look it up...RPM Switches.

[pressurized300zx]

Thanx, I'll go check the website now.

[firepower]

This is a great thread, keep it coming. I am interested in a 20-50 wet shot of N2O for my ride. MY intentions are to use the laughing gass to further cool my intake temps. I want to stay safe, so I know I can't add too much N2O. I only have 550 injectors and I don't want to max those out because at that point I will need to upgrade the internals (right?). I would only use the N2O in certain situations like pressure300zx would. I havn't researched the systems yet, but I will follow this thread to see what other topics get discussed.

[ProjectGSX]

Originally posted by firepower
This is a great thread, keep it coming. I am interested in a 20-50 wet shot of N2O for my ride. MY intentions are to use the laughing gass to further cool my intake temps. I want to stay safe, so I know I can't add too much N2O. I only have 550 injectors and I don't want to max those out because at that point I will need to upgrade the internals (right?). I would only use the N2O in certain situations like pressure300zx would. I havn't researched the systems yet, but I will follow this thread to see what other topics get discussed.

I would be wary to use NOS in any situation other than at the track drag racing. If it gets to be something you need on a somewhat regular basis, its going to get expensive and inconvenient to refill the bottle.

I would like to have it on hand though, just in case. :)

[Junior]

I was also looking into using N20. I was thinking along the lines of a 50 shot since I am still retaining my stock bottom end. My question is do you guys think it will hold up? I have plenty of fuel, but I am afraid that my current setup + the N20 will cause the bottom end to fail on me. I would only use the N2o for track purposes. What kind of support would I need for the n2o(other than bottom end)?

[dyezak]

There seems to be a lot of concern with bottom ends holding up on this thread, and for a good reason to. Why do bottom ends fail so easily on NOS cars, and how do we avoid that? Luckily other people long before us in the sport of racing have had these problems and deducted the answer from their findings (still true today).

It seems the 50hp you add from NOS not to be the big deal at all, it's the way you add it. If you turn up the boost to get 50hp more...why don't you blow? Because of the way NOS makes power. Bluntly, it's very abrupt, almost instantanious HP which equates to bending things or trashing bearings.

How do we compensate for this "instant" HP? Well, it seems there are 2 ways. The best way? Progressive Nitrous Controler. It alows you to have a 50hp shot, but to initially give 10% of that shot and gradually over say 2sec go to 100%. Everything is adjustable, inital shot, time to full power, and full power. Way cool tool, great for traction limited cars, and best of all great for internals.

Well, what's the second way? It's old school and not as good as the first, but it doesn't cost you any extra dough. When you install your NOS make the line from your NOS sylinoid to your injector nozzle really long, and the line from your fuel sylinoid really short. This softens the hit of your NOS and keeps everything controllable. This has been an old street racers trick for years, a way to taylor how your NOS hits based on length of hoses after the sylinoid.

Which one's better? Obvious. NOS and Jacobs ignition both make progressive controlers, I like NOS's better.

[AWDDOHC]

I get railed on almost every time I mention that I am putting this in my car, but a PMS has three different programs with a override program in every one hooked to a 12v input. Simply put, when the system sees you're getting NOS, it goes into the sub program and changes the program to your NOS program. You can change every thing in 100rpm increments.

NOS also suggest only pulling two degrees out for every fifty horse sprayed, then raising it until you get knock, so you may end up with only having to pull 1 degree out.

I was considering only spraying in second, third, and fourth gears, but I'll have to check out the progressive controller so I can squeeze first also

[Toast]

Nitrous reduces the overall HP capacity of the bottom end as compared to a turbo only motor. Reason being is that cylinder pressure spikes higher than in a turbocharged only engine. The area under the curve may be the same (providing the same HP) but the the engine sees more stress. In addition, you don't have the same margin of error in tuning. Slight detonation creates high pressure spikes. It seems on our engines we are more likely to damage the pistons (ring lands) before bending the rods (although both happens given enough detonation). Furthermore, the charge burns hot and this leads to burnt valves. So it is a good idea to run forged pistons and SS valves on an engine seeing high boost and nitrous.

Dyezak mentioned the positives of progressive nitrous control, but he didn't mention the negatives. Progressive nitrous controllers work by duty cycling the solenoids. This is VERY VERY hard on the solenoids (especially the nitrous solenoid which sees 900+ psi) and leads to a high rate of solenoid failure. At best, this leads to a rich condition and the car sputters down the track. But usually this results in engine damage. Here's a breakdown given a wet system

1. Fuel solenoid stuck open - Rich condition. Backfire and/or hydrolock situation possible
2. Fuel solenoid stuck closed - Lean condition. Usually enough detonation to destroy the motor
3. Nitrous solenoid stuck open - Lean condition usually resulting in a blown motor after you left off the throttle
4. Nitrous solenoid stuck closed - Rich condition. Sputtering. No harm done

So what are your choices? 1st thing you should do is have a redundant nitrous solenoid. It's foolish not to run one with a progressive controller. 2nd you need to inspect and rebuild your solenoids often. Time depending on amount of usage. Or you could just not run a progressive controller(my feelings). All the decent (read usable) progressive controllers run $500+. IMHO they add too much complexity, risk, and cost for the gains they would give in a relatively low power (<100HP) nitrous system. I think a better system is to run a dual stage setup. You could run 2 low power stages (25 + 25, 25 + 50, etc) for the added control and come away spending less and having better reliability.

The Jacob's NMM (Nitrous Master Mind) progressive nitrous controller is a horrible, cheap POS. Really it is that bad. First of all there are no setting markings whatsoever on the dials. You'll have to guess what setting you're one. But, that's not really the worst part. Worst part is the dial controls seem to be non-calibrated and non-linear. Turning the dial to the middle of the range usually does NOT mean you are in the middle of the adjustment range. Hell the dials usually aren't even close to their marked ranges. In this case, you really are getting what you pay for (not much).

A lot of people want to use nitrous mainly to cool the intake air. That's not a bad idea but it requires you design the nitrous system accordingly. If you want to cool the intake air, you want to place the fogger nozzle as far away from the throttle body as possible. This gives the nitrous the max amount of time to work in this respect. For this purpose, it's a good idea to mount the fogger nozzle on the UIC piping close to the intercooler. BUT, this creates a limitation. You cannot run a wet nitrous system like this as the fuel will settle (causing uneven distribution) and it creates a major backfire risk. Dry systems on turbo cars should be limited to low power applications. I would suggest a 25HP shot(50 max).

To repeat. Dry systems can be injected as far away as the intercooler outlet. But wet systems, because of the fuel distribution and backfire problems, should be injected as close to the TB as possible (obviously intake manifold on a direct port system). I would highly recommending staying away from dry systems on our cars as much as possible. I'd only recommend a dry system if it was jetted for a 25-50HP shot and used mainly to cool the intake air and/or for spool/up.

Anyhow, after all this talk I still don't think nitrous is a very cost effective solution. Doing it RIGHT isn't cheap and the power gains aren't so great. One thing to remember is, nitrous will add power. But the exhaust side doesn't care what is making the power. The exhaust side must be able to handle the increased flow without choking, otherwise you won't see the power gains (but you will see some burnt valves). A 16G w/7cm2 housing, unclipped wheel, and 50 shot of nitrous will have a great deal of backpressure. It won't make the power of a 20G with a 20-25 degree clip. A 14B 6cm2 unclipped+ 50shot won't make much more power than a 16G 7cm2 with small clip.

Here's an example of what I think a complete safe nitrous sytem could be:

Wet or Direct Port nitrous kit running (NX, NOS, etc)
Window switch, fuel pressure cutoff switch
Nitrous + Fuel pressure gauge
Bottle heater (at least a blanket)
Blow down tube
MSD DIS-2 + staged ignition retard control module (for those without timing control)
Bigger fuel pump (if needed)
Bigger wastegate (if needed)

A bare bones nitrous kit will run you $500-600. The added equipment will put you over $1000. Certainly not cheap. You can run with less equipment but you are putting your engine at risk. And what are the (temporary) gains you get? Compare the gains versus the cost of upgrading to a bigger turbo. A T25 + nitrous vs a 16G. A 14B + nitrous versus Big 16G. A small/big 16G + nitrous versus a 20G. A 20G + nitrous vs a FP Green.

I'm not slamming nitrous. I think it's great for lots of situations. Especially useful for NA cars. But on our cars it is so simple and cheap to get more power simply because we are factory equipped with a turbocharger. If spool up time is a major issue, then nitrous might be the better choice. But I think a lot people would be happier with a bigger turbo. I personally have installed a few nitrous systems on some local cars. It got me to thinking. I had a 14B and I was debating on whether to go 16G + nitrous or 20G. After all the research, I decided I would be happier to go with a properly setup 20G. That 20G is in the mail right now :)

[pressurized300zx]

Toast, you seem to be very knowledgeable about dsm's(cars in general), you got a shop or something? Anywayz, I came to the same conclusion as you about the nitrious, and I'm looking for a high flowing efficient intercooler now. I'm still undecided on the turbo, but the fp red and level 4 and 5 mutts have caught my attention. I was trying to take the easy way to make 450hp(flywheel) with my ported clipped 18G that's on the car now. But I guess with the 720cc injectors and s-afc, that I also have already, I'm only lacking a fmic and a full mandrel 3" exhaust. Wish someone would do a write-up on TRE's afc-masc, I'm not wanting to spend the money for a vpc(considering the link). Thanx for the info though.

[BatmanGSX]

I just want to add that you should never use a dry system unless you using your car at the track only and a squeazing all the time. Your car's fuel system would need to be tuned to run with the nitrous using a PMS or AFC for fine tuning, then when the nitrous wasn't on your car would run like shit or you would need to completely retune your fuel trims. Pain in the ass. Go with the wet.

And if you have like 380 horses and a stock bottom end don't even think about it, your rods will break. Nitrous is suitable for those making around 320 horses and don't want to spend $1000+ on a bigger turbo plus $700 for an external wastegate system. It's also good for those of us at high altitudes to level the playing field a little.

[NosLaser]

First off, I would like to say that Toast's post was pretty knowledgeable. I agree with most of the things he is saying, however I have had a very good experience with nitrous. I especialy like the part where he said to mount the nozzle far away from the throttle body on a dry kit, and close on a wet kit. A lot of people do not know this. He also pointed out the reasons why rather well too. As most of you know, I have had good success with nitrous, and when properly done, can be very rewarding. The big benefit of nitrous is TORQUE. I sprayed on top of the turbo all the way to redline, but using it as a spool-up is a viable option. I ran a ported, NON-clipped small 16g, and an 80 shot dry kit, and produced power to the tune of nearly 400HP to the wheels, with a little more torque. I see where he is going with the exhaust argument. When you spray nitrous, you get a tremendous exhaust pulse, which if your exhaust housing is not up the the task of moving out the exhaust, can create a lot of backpressure which as Toast said, can "toast" your exhaust valves. But, by that same token, if you spray on a clipped turbo, the gains can be phenomenal! I will always be a firm believer in spraying on a turbo car, but as with anything else, it must be done correctly.

[SPEEDY]

Do you guy's think it would be safe for me to run a 50 shot on the stock T-25 with a wet kit on my car? I have the walbro 255lph fuel pump and I'm running 18psi. I wouldn't be running a tank out every week. I think that would be very abusive. I would only use it if say, a c5 vette pulls along side or something similar, something you know that might give you some problems running against. I have been told before that it would be alright but every time this topic comes up some people are saying different things, so I'm kinda stuck between a rock and a hard place.

[Toast]

Pressurized300zx, I don't have or run a shop (although that idea has crossed my mind before). But I do some work on the side for the local guys around here. Mostly DSMs and Toyotas with a few Hondas. I guess after 8+ years of an unhealthy obsession with cars, you pick up a few things ;)

[Ian97GSX]

I've been considering running a 80 or 100 HP shot of NOS at the track so that I can break into the 11's without having to power-shift or upgrade my turbo.

I don't want to power-shift because my transmission can't take it. Well, I can power-shift 4th, but 1-2 and 2-3 don't even like a fast shift.

I don't want to upgrade my turbo because my primary "fun" activity is autocross and ProSolo, where the spool of my small 16G is already a little too laggy.

So that led me to consider adding a shot of NOS to push my little 16G into the 11's without abusing the tranny too badly.

Leon Reitman recommended a 4 nozzle (one on each intake runner) wet system. I'll have to upgrade my fuel system.
The Supra TT pump is adequate but I think I'll need to up the lines to maintain fuel pressure, not sure. Any advice?

My 550 injectors hit 100% duty cycle at about 6800 RPMs in 3rd and 4th, so I think I'll upgrade to a set of 660's too.

Toast and NOSLaser have both made good posts that put me in a quandary. Should I just put in 660's and run a dry 80 shot after my FMIC? Or, should I go with 4 wet 20 or 25 HP injectors on the intake runners?

Any advice?

[Project DereK]

I have boost and nos. I spray a 50 shot wet and it makes a world of a difference! I even have the stock fuel pump and the car still runs rich as hell! You'll have no prob with it!

[SPEEDY]

Originally posted by Project DereK
I have boost and nos. I spray a 50 shot wet and it makes a world of a difference! I even have the stock fuel pump and the car still runs rich as hell! You'll have no prob with it! That's pretty cool man! How many psi of boost are you running with that 50 shot? I want to run the same 50 shot myself.

[Toast]

Ian97GSX, if you're planning on at least an 80 shot, then you should take Leon''s advice and go with a direct port setup. It's a little more (ok a lot more) work to install but it's worth it. There's no reason to stick with a single port TB injection setup and you should forget the dry setup altogether. For direct port systems I like the NOS Pro Fogger or NX Piranha direct port.

The Supra TT pump w/ rewire will be adequate for your power levels. If you don't have an aftermarket FPR already you should get one. It's up to you how you want to supply fuel to the fuel solenoid. You could tap the banjo bolt off the stock fuel filter. Better choice is to do the Stevetek fuel line upgrade and run a Y fitting off the aftermarket fuel filter. Either way, the line the fuel solenoid is attached to should be connected to the 2nd regulator port on your FPR. Oh, and the 660s are a good idea too.

One more thing. You didn't mention what type of WG you're running. If you don't have at least a 34mm flapper you'll have some scary boost spikes when the nitrous hits.

[greenstreak]

Keep your money in your pocket Speedy. I find it hard to believe that a 50 shot could possible be run on a stock pump.

[SlowRide]

Originally posted by Ian97GSX
My 550 injectors hit 100% duty cycle at about 6800 RPMs in 3rd and 4th, so I think I'll upgrade to a set of 660's too.



How do you know when your injectors are maxxed out? I saw earlier somoeone was referring to a formula to determine if your fuel system is maxxed out. What is the formula, and what variables must be known?

I do have the AVC-R inj cycle feature setup but haven't determined it useful or accurate yet.

I have 660's in the mail but I am a little worried they will be a little much for my big 16G, especially on race gas.

[SPEEDY]

Originally posted by greenstreak
Keep your money in your pocket Speedy. I find it hard to believe that a 50 shot could possible be run on a stock pump. Yeah! Thanks for the advise, fortunatly I have the walbro 255lph fuel pump already. I myself would never run a 50 shot on mine with out a fuel pump upgrade, that is why I wanted to know what kind of boost Project Derek was running, especially with a stock fuel pump. I have talked with other guy's before on the forums that are running a 50 shot with upgraded fuel pump and around 17 psi of boost on the stock T-25 and they claim they have no problems at all, now all of the post's here have got me all mixed up again so now I don't know what to believe or who to believe if you can catch my drift. I really would like to run a 50 shot on my car I have never had a chance to experience nitrous on a 4 cylinder turbo car, everyone around here where I live which is NC, basically NASCAR country, is a V8 muscle head. Thanks for any info!!!!

[pressurized300zx]

I have a good idea, why don't the guyz/girlz that's using no2 already(noslaser, project derek,etc...)tell us how they have the nitrious set-up. Can yall tell us what devices other than what you get in the no2 kit you're using? like rpm switches, hobbs switch, and how are you handling timing under boost and juice? I feel this would clear up alot of confusion, once we understand how to implement the nitrious system onto the car. Thanx.

[Geovannie]

What do you guys think about a 50-75 shot wet nx kit on the following

stock ported turbo
95 ported manifold
95 ported o2 housing with dump mod
3" open downpipe
Hard pipes
17psi
Walbro 255 high pressure pump
all free mods..

I have no fuel control right now..I plan on getting bigger injectors and a afc later on but I think(this is where I need help) that my fuel pump rewired will be enough to suppot the nitrous kit. After reading this thread Im goign to try to find a 7cm exhaust housing for my 14b.. then later I will upgrade to 16g when I get injectors and all that deal. I do have a logger.

[Nick 92 TSi AWD]

I didn't read this whole thread, only the begining, so sorry if this has already been covered. For engine management, PM$, PROefi, or a haltech E6k would allow allow you to setup nitrous specific fuel and timing maps as well as automatically activate the solenoid to turn on the nitrous.

OT question for Ian, is Leon's engine back together again yet?

[AWDDOHC]

IF you have a wet kit, you don't have to worry about injectors. It sprays it own fuel in, thats why its a wet kit :P

[Geovannie]

Hmmn, I must have worded that wrong..but nevermind I got the answer I was looking for already.

[turbo21psi]

I didn't really pay attention to this thread until now that I have my motor out of the car and in the process of rebuilding it. You guys mentioned the added stress of nitrous on an engine compared to the stress from only a turbo and got me thinking on how to go about my rebuild. My current plan for the power setup was a big turbo and a shot of NOS. Say, I run a T04E running 25+ psi and a 75-shot wet kit and to simplify things lets assume that it's tuned properly w/ the proper support. How much do I need to build the bottom end for that setup. Would aftermarket rods, pistons, and fasteners be sufficient or should I look into more ways of strenghtening up the block.... thanks...

[Nick 92 TSi AWD]

Our block is solid iron, nuff said.

[DSM_RCR]

OT, but what kind of springs/suspension are you using on your GSX? My 97 GSX looks like it could qualify for a rally. :D

[niterydr]

imo i think the best setup for nitrous is still a 50-75shot WET w/ a bigger turbo..hit it low, and have it cut out at a certain boost level, just make sure you have upgraded internals!! (like previously stated).
question, does anyone run a 50shot wet on a 14b? and another question about fuel
i wanna run 18psi on my 14b, but im afraid of running lean, im ordering a egt gauge, and if i turn the fuel pressure w/a adjustable fuel pressure regulator to lets say 45psi, will that provide enough fuel to keep me 'safe'...i currently run 16psi and am fine (not lean at all, friend has a logger, we checked it). Unfortunally i can't afford a upgraded fuel pump as of yet, but if i get the gauge/fpr setup and turn it up past the stock 36psi setting, will i be fine, or tax out my fuel pump.
anyone out there done this before?
thanx.

[eto]

Rewire the fuel pump atleast then. Keep the lower honeycomb in also. You mainly have to watch for it going extremely lean in the upper RPMs over 5500. A datalogger will tell you everything you need to know though.

[niterydr]

can't i just keep an eye on egt's? and then just check knock count on the pocketlogger. Im thinking it will give me enough fuel if i bump up the psi on the fuel system...My fuel pump is already rewired (10 gauge) and the lower honeycomb is removed..thanx for the help.

[Mike M]

Just my $.02:

I see no reason for not running NOS on the street, wet or dry, as long as your wallet can support that trigger happy finger.

I ran an 80 shot, dry system on an Altima for a year. Went through a bottle every freakin weekend running cars on the street. Yes, I used more NOS than gas. I had no fuel delivery or engine problems and the car ran like a champ. 14.4 @ 97

I would *not* recomend running a single fogger wet system due to the uneven fuel distribution. If you go wet, go direct port.

Regards,
Mike Montalvo
digital tuning, inc.
http://www.pocketlogger.com