New Rev-limiter

[yourNexus]

Hey, my engine is being totally redone and I will be getting a technomotive stage II ecu with a higher revlimiter, what would be a good revlimiter to set it at, here is the new engine

coated ross 9.1 racing pistons
pauter rods
webcams street grind
2mm over ss valves /w over seats
web spring kit
remove balance shaft
fidanza flywheel
arp everything
port and polish head
balanced rotating assembly

what should the revlimiter be set on?
thanx for any input guys

[dyezak]

Really the big part in uppin the revvs in any car isn't the bottom end, it's the valvetrain. The second issue is the con rod/piston connection and rod bolts. The valvetrain is the first place to spot conditions of overrevving...valvefloat. Since you upgraded your valvesprings I would contact the manufacturer and get their recomendations. The second area is con rod/piston connection and rodbolts. The most strain on your bottom end isn't during compression, its on the downstroke. Rods and pistons can take compression loads very easily, so that's not a concern, it's the tensle strength of the connections down there that you're concerned with...metal will break almost 10 times as fast when it's scretched than when it's compressed. I would contact ARP, Pauter, and Ross along with webcams and see all of their answers. The lowest recomendation is what I would use. Every car is different, along with every combo. But I suspect 9000rpm's to be safe in your car. (You have a stronger combo than Buschur and that's what his redline is, pauter rods and webcams springs, he uses crower rods and stock springs)

[Geovannie]

what is the stock revlimiter ona 1gawd? I am afraid to speedshift on this car, it accelerates faster than my older cars. B4 i never lifted. NOw i definately lift but i want to try not lifting from 3rd to 4th. Will i bounce off the rev limiter?

[Friends_Got_Dsms]

7500RPM is stock rev limiter for all 1G's. Also the 2G's i think.

[galantvr41062]

well I herd that stock everything will handle 7,800. And "floating the valves" is just not enough time to get the air in and the exaust out so you just need more flow, ie higher lift cams. I also herd that the stock valve train was taken to 9gs and held(1st gen) also I mist a shift way back when 5th to 2nd at 70ish I saw 9gs on the stock tach and everything was fine. I know with that set up I would have about a 8500 red line pending turbo used etc.

~John

[yourNexus]

well I will be using a 14B but plans for a fp green along time down the road. I plan on pushing the 14B to the max

[TheHondaKiller]

Valve float is caused by low valve spring rates, at high rpm the spring can't retract the valves fast enough and they float into the pistons. Higher lift cams would actually hurt valve float by pushing the spring out of it's comfort zone and compressing it completely, this puts more stress on it considerably increasing the chance for valve float. I virtually see no need for a rev-limit above 7800rpm, an aquintance of mine runs a large t3/t4 and his power starts to drop off at 7300rpm, he doesn't have cams so I'll add about 500rpm of top end for them (very generous). The only reason to rev to 8k is to spool an HUGE turbo (full T4, T series most likely), or posibly to keep the revs high on a 1st to second shift with a large turbo. A FP green will have no need to rev beyond 7800rpm, since it makes peak power at a bit over 7k with cams. I'm thinking your going WAY OVERKILL the FP green and escpecially for the 14b!! And I should know; I run a Haltech E6K, 1000cc injectors, huge FMIC with 2.5" piping, 3" cold air intake to a huge filter, 1mm oversized SS 5 angle valves, ported head, and -8 fuel line (these are my OVERKILL mods) on my 14b. And let me say one thing, pushing the 14b to the limits is not near as fun as playing with a big turbo (which I'm curently setting my car up for). My car has taken out mid 12 second cars at 17psi on PUMP GAS, but there is only so far the turbo will go... I've hit the limit and I'm passing this infomation onto you, I would save all the money your spending on the topend of your motor and buy the FP Green, then later you can do the top end, you will definetely thank me for it. Life gets old when you can't race with the big boys because your stuck with a tiny ass turbo. All the tuning in the world can only make a 14b car go so fast. Just how fast? I guess you'll all find out at The Shootout, I'll be driving the White 1g with 17" white wheels that reads "V8KILLR" on the Iowa plate. But I'm sure plenty of people with bigger turbo's will be kicking my ass, there's only so far the 14b can go...

[SlowAWD]

The stock 4g63t engine (entire engine) will spin 9000rpm with no problem. THe rev limiter in all model Lancer Evo's is 8000. David Buschur, in his old RWD, on his test motor, ran 9000rpm for 50 passes or so before a rod went. No valve float.

You don't have to worry about over revving a 4g63t engine. you have to worry about what's connected to the crank. How is you tranny going to like being shifted at 9000rpm? No its not. It will last for a little while, but not tooo long.

[Rdy2race]

a STOCK MOTOR WILL NOT spin 9K with stock springs.

Shim the factor springs and this will bring up the spring rate and reduce possable throw length and THEN you can spin 9K. Better retainers and keepers are a good diea but factor will work.

Now also NOBODY took in to account that he is running 2mm over size valves!@!! this is a prblem and over kill IMHO. the reason is that with the larger valves the mass of the vale is greater. this means that it will take more force to bring the valve back up and that means MORE spring weight. All in all you might have a problem in the long term wear of the cams with such a heave spring on it. But this all depends on what the cam is made from.

Do you know the weight of the new oversize valves? This will help equate the amount of spring tenshion needed to keep all things safe.

About the ARPs
I love the head bolts. I HATE the lower end. Bad design IMHO but that is for me. I personally have no problem with factory lower end bolts as long as they are all new. The ARP bolts use a thiner bolt in a sleve. many have had problems with this when the install was not done right. Others have just plain out busted them. I will stick with factor lower end fastioners till I see a better answer. One reason I can see them doing this is B/C the newer motors ( 7 bolts ) went to smaller bolts and 99% of the time companys make " what fits" not what is best. This would explain the sleve that must be used for a smaller bolt.

PS how many factory motors do you hear of that are busting up rod ends and main cap bolts??

thought so :D

BM-

[yourNexus]

As far as seat pressure Im not sure.
The reason for the 2mm oversized is because I got the valves ,spring kit,seats,guides all from a guy for a good deal.
Only the intake are 2mm over, the exahust are standard sized.
I know I am going overkill for the 14b but my motor siezed a bearing and I wanted to build it up the right way and not have to tear it down again. So I bought everything to put it in the first time. Plus it will be running a huge fmic and decent shot of nitrous ,headers, sheet metal intake with a ProEFI. But thats aways away, so should I keep my limiter at 7500 for the time being? If so I really dont think ill get the modded ecu, do you know a good way to remove fuel cut?
A guy that builds circle track motors is doing all my motor work and he really knows what he is doing , would you suggest me not using the arp main studs?