Reverse Grind

My car always grinds when putting it into reverse. Even when the clutch is through the floor. My guess is i need my clutch realigned but does anyone else know wtf to do? And how much $ is it to get it realigned?

Try putting it into 4th before you try reverse. I'm sure some one else knows why. I just know it works.

Time for a tranny rebuild.

Time for a tranny rebuild.

f i just bought the car. there is no way i can afford that now. i'm just gonna have to work around it.

f i just bought the car. there is no way i can afford that now. i'm just gonna have to work around it.

Yeah, good luck with working around it. :rolleyes: Read the rules also. You need to use proper English, proper sentence structure and capital letters where required. :wall:

Yes putting it into 4th gear first does work. How many miles are on the transmission? Have you ever changed the transmission fluid?

I work around it. I push my car out of every parking stall cause it doesnt have reverse...meh.

^^^ Thats going to be fun come winter.

I need something reliable in the winter so I doubt Ill have Dizz..

*Thinks about snow drifting with AWD and has a second thought :P

You will need a trans rebuild to fix that. However, many of the guys here, including myself, get by simply through putting the trans into 4th and then Reverse. Doesn't bother me!

Also said earlier, changing the fluid will help.

i don't know about you guys but i go all the way over to first then back over to reverse and it goes in..... I would advise a tranny fluid flush just because it can work wonders.

Unfortunately, nothing will FIX it until you do a rebuild. It's just going to keep getting worse and then it will start popping out of gear when moving. Once again, good luck with your bandaide fixes. :wall:

but if thats my only problem with it is that grinding from nuetral to reverse and maybe every once in awhile from first to second (almost never) can't it just be realigned?

Master and slave!! I had a similar problem and it fixed it next first is going to go.

Master and slave!! I had a similar problem and it fixed it next first is going to go.

Very unlikely. If it were the master or slave, he would be having more problems than just reverse. It would pretty much grind going into any gear because it won't disengage the clutch all the way. Same thing as when your clutch fork is bent or about to break.

but if thats my only problem with it is that grinding from nuetral to reverse and maybe every once in awhile from first to second (almost never) can't it just be realigned?

No such thing as having the clutch re-aligned. I would bet your clutch fork is bent and about to snap on you.

Why the worst case scenarios? I had the same problem and it was my clutch not fully disengaging.

Why the worst case scenarios? I had the same problem and it was my clutch not fully disengaging.

And what fixed that problem for you? If the clutch isn't disengaging it's usually one of three things or a combo.

1: Bent clutch fork
2: Master cylinder
3: Slave cylinder

If the fork is bent the clutch will not disengage fully and the gears will grind going in. If it's bent, it will break. If it's old, IE: more than 30,000 miles, replace it with the newer stronger version. Same thing if one or both of the cylinders are leaking. If the cylinder is leaking, the slave rod can't push out far enough causing the clutch to stay engaged. If you are running an ACT2600, you should also shim the pivot ball with a washer to help with disengagement.

Sounds like Rippin works on commission for some tranny re-build shop. :D

Sounds like Rippin works on commission for some tranny re-build shop. :D

Nope, just been through all this crap already man. ;)

Nope, just been through all this crap already man. ;)
I'm sure you have but one person's experience doesn't always define all possibilities, pulling the tranny should always be the last option, not the first. You may be right at the end but not until all other possibilities are eliminated. For example, no one in this thread has even asked OP if he has the same shifting problem with the engine off which is step one when troubleshooting tranny/clutch issues, pulling the rebuild trigger is a little too early if you ask me.

IMO OP's problems are fairly minor, some adjustment of the master cylinder, bleeding and some BG's will most likely do the trick.

Is reverse an un-syncronized gear(sp)? If so then that may have some part in it.

Try double clutching it. For all of you with shitty synchros, it goes like this:

Say, you are at the top of first, shifting into second.....

1. Press the clutch in.
2. Put shifter in neutral.
3. Release the clutch.
4. Press the clutch in again.
5. Then shift into gear (It will be grind-free if done correctly).
6. Release the clutch.

The whole process should take about 1 second, the faster the better.

I can drive a car with NO synchros with this technique. Whether or not the same technique will work for reverse is up to speculation. Just try it.

well i need to figure this out cheap bcz go figure my f'in driver side door handle just snapped on me.:mad: now i need to buy a new handle and get it painted and installed. any good local shops to check this issue out in PA?

well i need to figure this out cheap bcz go figure my f'in driver side door handle just snapped on me.:mad: now i need to buy a new handle and get it painted and installed. any good local shops to check this issue out in PA?

Proper sentence structure, proper grammar and capital letters where required please. Read the rules.

Try double clutching it. For all of you with shitty synchros, it goes like this:



I'm not sure how many people want to double clutch their dsm just to get to work and back... its not a dump truck.

and, getting into reverse from a stop, in neutral, is starting at your step 4 already.

Reverse is synchronized, yes, but it is a very unique system. Reverse has a synchronizer that actually doesn't interact with reverse, but the input shaft. When you go into reverse the blocker ring stops the input shaft from rotating, so without any rotating parts in the trans reverse gear will go in without grinding. You have to have two parts moving at different speeds to have it grind, and when nothing is moving, there is nothing to grind. The problem is that input shaft blocker ring is very small, and it is VERY sensitive to a clutch that is in the 'friction zone' - the clutch is dragging. If the clutch isn't letting go completely when you push that pedal to the floor, the input shaft will not be able to stop and then the reverse gear idler will grind. Try this, but please be careful:

1) Have the car running with the e-brake off so it can roll.
2) Push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there.
3) Turn off your launch limiter in DSM link so the engine can hit 7K RPM.
4) Put the car into 1st gear.
5) Rev the engine up until you feel the car start to move forward.

If the car moves forward below 7200RPM, your clutch is dragging. DO NOT DRIVE UNTIL THE PROBLEM IS FIXED! Unit will also be hard to shift and you will smoke the rest of your synchros in short time.

A grinding reverse is a sign of something wrong with your clutch adjustment, clutch assy, or master/slave cylinders.

Jack

Reverse is synchronized, yes, but it is a very unique system. Reverse has a synchronizer that actually doesn't interact with reverse, but the input shaft. When you go into reverse the blocker ring stops the input shaft from rotating, so without any rotating parts in the trans reverse gear will go in without grinding. You have to have two parts moving at different speeds to have it grind, and when nothing is moving, there is nothing to grind. The problem is that input shaft blocker ring is very small, and it is VERY sensitive to a clutch that is in the 'friction zone' - the clutch is dragging. If the clutch isn't letting go completely when you push that pedal to the floor, the input shaft will not be able to stop and then the reverse gear idler will grind. Try this, but please be careful:

1) Have the car running with the e-brake off so it can roll.
2) Push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there.
3) Turn off your launch limiter in DSM link so the engine can hit 7K RPM.
4) Put the car into 1st gear.
5) Rev the engine up until you feel the car start to move forward.

If the car moves forward below 7200RPM, your clutch is dragging. DO NOT DRIVE UNTIL THE PROBLEM IS FIXED! Unit will also be hard to shift and you will smoke the rest of your synchros in short time.

A grinding reverse is a sign of something wrong with your clutch adjustment, clutch assy, or master/slave cylinders.

Jack
www.jackstransmissions.com

This is great information! How would you go about fixing this problem if you are having it though?

The blocker ring is on the end cover, so you can easily get to it by pulling the cover off of the trans. You can do it with it in the car (don't have to remove the trans), but there is a possibility it might leak if you don't reseal it correctly. When you pull the cover off, a ring is going to fall out. That's the input shaft/REV ring. Take a close look at it for wear, also look at the end cover to see if it has any blueing where the ring makes contact with it.

If your clutch is perfect now, then in the past there might have been a clutch issue that killed it and just simply replacing that ring could fix the problem. If the trans was rebuilt by someone not familiar with it and it started grinding in R, there is also a possibility that a lockout ball between the 3/4 and 5/R rails is missing causing the ring to drag when driving in a forward gear. Blueing on the end cover contact surface will tell you that is the case. If you see blueing, then you will have to tear the whole unit down.

Jack

Would this also cause reverse to pop out of gear? Mine does it from time to time if you dont hole pressure on the shifter, but all other gears are fine in and out.

If it does that then the grinding wore the sharp end of the idler and slider teeth down to the point where they don't want to mesh together as easily as they should anymore. The slider and idler probably need to be replaced to cure that one.

Jack

Try double clutching it. For all of you with shitty synchros, it goes like this:

Say, you are at the top of first, shifting into second.....

1. Press the clutch in.
2. Put shifter in neutral.
3. Release the clutch.
4. Press the clutch in again.
5. Then shift into gear (It will be grind-free if done correctly).
6. Release the clutch.

The whole process should take about 1 second, the faster the better.

I can drive a car with NO synchros with this technique. Whether or not the same technique will work for reverse is up to speculation. Just try it.

sorry if i talked about that wrong but i dont have any issue other than going from nuetral to reverse. also it only does this about 1/4 the time. other than that my tranny seems fine. it shifts real smooth from 1st to 2nd etc etc....

sorry if i talked about that wrong but i dont have any issue other than going from nuetral to reverse. also it only does this about 1/4 the time. other than that my tranny seems fine. it shifts real smooth from 1st to 2nd etc etc....

Use proper English and proper sentence structure and capital letters where required as stated in the rules. Don't make me tell you again. Read the rules now. :mad:

I fixed my reverse, woohoo!

Tighten all your bell housing bolts, make sure there is no up and down play on your linkage (if so add a washer), and make sure your tranny fluid is up to snuff.

It only used to gring for me, did all that and now no more pushing :)

What is the problem if I write in lowercase? I'm not slanging words or cursing my head off like people do. It doesnt effect anything with lower case?

What is the problem if I write in lowercase? I'm not slanging words or cursing my head off like people do. It doesnt effect anything with lower case?

The problem is that it's against the rules you didn't read. I suggest you do so now or bye bye. Take 2 seconds more and type it correctly the first time. This isn't AIM. :wall:

That whole double clutchin for 2nd works very well.

Ive been doing that since I read this post....
But...

I still grind coming down into 2nd. Like from 3rd or 4th...Even if I do that. Any tips there?

-Im gonna adjust my cables soon, just havnt had time-

Once you start grinding in any of the forward gears, it's over. The synchro ring is wiped out and the synchro assy needs to be replaced.

Jack

That whole double clutchin for 2nd works very well.

Ive been doing that since I read this post....
But...

I still grind coming down into 2nd. Like from 3rd or 4th...Even if I do that. Any tips there?

-Im gonna adjust my cables soon, just havnt had time-

The trans needs to match the motor. That is why your letting the clutch out in neutral, to give yourself a chance to spin them both together.

Gas it to 4 or 5k (guessing) when the clutch is out in neutral, then push it in and go into gear, quickly. They are both spinning together, so you just have to pop it in real quick.

I say "match the trans to the motor", but thats only partially true. Just think about it that way its easiest. (I think)

If your double clutching your car for anything more than insane heel-toe down-shifts on the track, give it up and get it fixed.

When my car actually ran, my TRE tranny would grind reverse a little bit. All you have to do is double clutch and make sure you're ALL the way to the right before going into reverse. Also going from 4th to reverse works pretty well. My old 92' 5.0 Stang would only go about half way into reverse sometimes so I'd have to put it in 4th then Reverse.

IMO it's not a huge deal at all. It takes a mere few extra seconds every time you get into the driver's seat.

GL 5 does the grind too. It destroys copper. Guess what your synchros are made of?

Anyone?

Anyone?

:P

I thought depending on year is was either brass or bronze. Later synchros from what I have seen are the stronger bronze.

Jack

Umm, copper syncro's? I think not. Brass or bronze as far as I know.

LOL! what was I thinking?
:wall:

Sorry guys.

Ha Ha.

:tat: me!

It seems the 2g trannys have that issue. Mine does. It gets annoying. I have to double clutch it.
I don't know if it's year specific, but my friends 97 had that problem and the tranny in my gsx is a 97.

what about the reverse sensor washer??
Info found here
http://www.sheptrans.com/faqs/index.htm