Installing some meth

[Asmodeus]

Well, the last day or two I've been fooling around with finally getting around to installing my Labonte Motor Sports meth kit. The evo needs it badly at this point so I got a small wind of motivation to play with some parts.

What I really wanted to do was ship off the intake manifold & TB for some ported lovin' and a 65mm TB. What happened is I busted out some sanding rolls and I went to work my damn self. Its aluminum, not iron. Why not.

I don't have any decent porting equipment anymore, so I just gave it the best go I could. I didn't want to try to get the nozzle to seal in the thin UICP. So the intake manifold was key. I already had an extra. So it was going in the intake manifold. In fact, there are 2 spots that are basically "insert meth here". One right up front, that dimple that is there for no reason. And in the back, there is a tab, with a small circle on it. So I ground the angle off and - inserted nozzle there. Its dead center in the manifold. (Both are actually) But I'll save the front for another vacuum nipple or sensor if need be.

Getting started;
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10300.jpg
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Matched up pretty well;
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10306.jpg
Some inlet porting;
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10310.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10312.jpg

After finish work and cleaning;
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10313.jpg
Insert meth here; I think this was a 5/16ths drill bit and 1/8th NPT tap M8 nozzle.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10314.jpg

For an electric high speed dremel - I'll take it. :dunno:

Hopefully it works out well enough I don't have to send the stocker out to replace it again. If so, oh well.

Then it was time to get busy on the pump and wiring. I had some idea's... like a plate that I could bolt the pump and a tank to the rear seat. (trunk) But filling it would be a problem it seemed. No way to get my bottles of 4X% / 6X% windshield washer fluid in there... and that 2qt tank is small...

Ok time for another look at the factory spray reservoir. Man is that thing aggravating to take out. I have an RS so no rear wiper. No rear wiper pump either. Right now this is good. Because the spot for the pump is still there. I was a bit worried the pump wouldn't prime being above the tank. So I stuffed my 30ft coil of tube into the front pump's little outlet elbow - put the tank back in place and set the coil down in the trunk for a second. The tank was pretty full, and sure enough it managed to creep up hill, thru 30ft of tube, and spill into my trunk before I could finish setting the bottle in place. To make sure it wasn't a fluke. I blew all the fluid out of the line until the tank bubbled and set it back down. More leaking in my trunk. Pump will prime. Check!

So it was time to rip that bottle back out and make it work for meth too. I drilled it exactly where the indent for the rear pump is. (that way if it doesn't prime, I can run the rear pump in there fired off the meth pumps power to be a helper pump to the shurflo. Instead of thinking how I'm going to patch the hole in my tank, and undrill the holes in my trunk I mounted the pump with...

I also opted for the low level switch into the side of the stock tank. Be careful here... has to be high enough to clear. The backside taper of the tank means you need to go up about 2" from the exposed front side of the tank. I chose the middle. It BARELY fits without touching the back wall, but moves freely installed. BARELY. (Screwing it in was ghey, all jammed up.) I did run the hole the size of the threads and actually tapped it with a 3/8th's NPT tap just to open it up a little. So you had to thread it thru. Better safe than sorry IMO.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10340.jpg
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Figuring out where I wanted the pump. I used the small yellow plastic hole grommet to run the screw into. (So I only had to drill one hole thru my trunk.) With two washers, the long screws that came with it worked well. I plunked rtv in the screw holes to keep shit out of my trunk. Yes I have no interior in my trunk. Its an RS.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10344.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10347.jpg
Still a bit raw but a general idea of how its going to be.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10348.jpg
You will need to pull your interior out. Rear seat, rear kick plate, center seat belt pillar, front kick plate, front triangle plate, glove box... The rear seat comes up with 2 pull tabs just like a DSM. The kick plates... pull harder. Then pry the stupid pop clips still stuck in the holes back out. Flat head. :rolleyes: The center pillar is flexible, peel it off. That channel runs right into the engine bay. Mine had an extra track I could CLIP the meth line into. Sweet. Like this;
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10349.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10350.jpg

This is the grommet you need to drill thru and use. Could be different, I don't have ABS in the way. So I got lots of room.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10351.jpg
My pleather carpet I cut a while ago.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10352.jpg
And mis-cut for the pump... D'oh...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10353.jpg

I still have to finish the rest of the wiring, the LED's etc. And rip the stock intake manifold off. But I did mount the solenoid in the dark - but didn't get a picture.

I stopped to make a battery tray bracket out of aluminum to mount the controller in the engine bay. It looked neat on the Buschur cars, but costs $149. I already have the small battery and billet tray, so I just made mine bolt in the same place and come up the front, and wrap around the side. I still have to clean up the edges, but hopefully it turns out ok. Its pre-polished billet, and has the sticky tape on it still. Started out as a 10x10. And its 1/8th in for that extremely hard to bend, or cut look. :rolleyes: Fellow machinist DSM'er dropped it off for me.

More to follow.

[91EclipseGuy]

Nice writeup! Look forward to more progress.

~Tim

[french_hustler]

Reminds me of the time I had to install my trunk kit as well....
Good info though.
Let us know the results when you're done!!!

[Red1991TSI]

Nicely done Asmo! I can't wait to eventually do mine.

[Asmodeus]

Well I didn't get very far. I spent an awful lot of time on the battery tray thing. And even that I decided to go use a bench grinder on to finish the cleanup. So I hung out with my grand parents today, and handed it over to him. He's pretty good with aluminum and steel fabrication so I always let him clean up my attempt to do something nice... its a visual piece so I figured it would just be better if it WAS nice. He's 86 and he puts me to shame.

This bolts to the existing mini tray to bolt my meth controller to. And I made the back wrap around to keep the battery from sliding back, as the existing tray only had a lip in the front.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10354.jpg
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http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10360.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10361.jpg

We hung out a bit, so now I'm going to have to break out a light or two and get to some of this wiring. I'll rip the intake manifold off maybe tomorrow. Not looking forward to it. I can't see it being fun.

Either way, it may have been a pita, but I think it turned out pretty nice, gave me a mounting solution for the control box, and the meth failsafe, or ignition module if I choose to. Its a 1lb and a half with the meth controller on it. It wasn't exactly malleable... but its the same as the existing mini batt tray so I think it worked out good.

Eh, either way, the stock battery is what 42lbs? The mini is 13lb's. So I'm not real concerned with it. Mini battery in the Evo gives you a ton of room without messing with putting it in the trunk. Which, is cool, but not so much for me.

[Burnett03]

Not bad.. I always do my meth kits in full SS line -3an and -4an but i just am overkill i guess?

[rpc91GSX]

God I love that engine bay. Sexy. Keep it comin' asmo! :D

[lazylaser]

Thats good that you mounted your Labonte controller so that you can adjust the controls so easily...I forgot to make mine accessable and currently have to remove the controler from the firewall to adjust it. Keep the pictures coming

[Asmodeus]

So I went for a drive, ran into a few buddies of mine, and took another Evo owner for a ride. Stopped by to see my woman at work, and she was feeling shitty. So I just camped out under a big light in the parking lot and went to town with the wiring.

I fed the pump drive wire from the battery tray area along the strut tower bar boot thing. Hell I don't even know why its there aside from a convenient place to tuck a wire. Then I grabbed the black loom from the maft pro's SD harness. And fed the wire thru that across where its tucked (and zip tied) to the strut tower bar. Which reminded me to strip the aux wire out of that harness and solder it to the pump wire as well. I shoved this all back into the same loom for tidyness. Coming back to the passenger side I did the same thing with the solenoid that stops it from siphoning into the manifold. Fed the wire thru the same grommet (and loom) as the maft pro stuff. I ran out of butane for my soldering iron and I just ran some of the wires for the LED's. The one was coming up from the back from the low level switch. I just extended it over thru the dash and out of the gauge cluster. And ran the other T'd into the pump drive wire - and then going back to the pump. This still needs soldered then I can put my interior back in. Finally.

The pump (on) LED needs a ground still, and the low level LED needs a switched power. The harness needs plugged into the control unit, and hooked up to power, ground, and the pump wire. It comes with a deactivation wire too, but I haven't decided how I want that to work yet.

I would imagine the clutch switch... but since the evo is a fuel based rev limit, I want to see how it reacts to meth being sprayed on the launch limiter before I hook that up.

Other than that, I just need to rip off the intake manifold. And pop the other one on. And she should be ready to go.

[Asmodeus]

Not bad.. I always do my meth kits in full SS line -3an and -4an but i just am overkill i guess?

This plastic junk they give you leaves a lot to be desired when you first pick it up and look at it. Until I tried to get it back OUT of the pump fitting after shoving it in there to see how it held. I could have swung the shurflo by the hose. The shit doesn't come out. Good enough for government work. :dunno:

If it can hold 150psi, its stronger than any vacuum line on the car x3.

I'd worry about it, but it was routed carefully. It is protected in the channel the whole way up the car, in a grommet, and away from hot or spinning parts, and even sharp bends or edges. I think it will be ok. I can always rerun it in SS later if need be.

[DSM Loki]

Dustin, isn't it past your bedtime?

[Asmodeus]

Some pictures from the install. I ripped the intake manifold off today and swapped it. Finished wiring up the LEDs, and the main pump wire going back.

This is the maft pro harness I snuck the pump wire back thru.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10365.jpg

And thru the strut bar boot.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10366.jpg

Solenoid mounted in back.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10367.jpg

Pump wire up from the back (red) coming in from the engine bay, (black) and power for the green ON LED (black) Ok so I only had black wire...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10368.jpg

Blue is ground from the level sender, black is + from the ON (green) LED.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10369.jpg

I hid the wiring for the solenoid in the maft pro loom as well. Its soldered onto the pump wire coming thru the loom.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10374.jpg

Tearing wiring shit off today to take off the manifold.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10376.jpg

Looked like a good place to set all that fuck. I didn't disconnect anything but wiring. Fuel rail I left the lines on and just set it out of the way.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10377.jpg

Same deal with the TB. Just left the coolant lines on it and set it out of the way.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10378.jpg

Old one on the left, clean one on the right.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10379.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10380.jpg

Heat barrier gasket. (I layer this in a film of rtv, and put a stock gasket on each side like a sammich.) See the ear for the alternator bracket peeking up in the bottom of the photo? Yeah that bolt doesn't go back in. Not with the thicker gasket. There is one on the other side that does not go back in either. It holds the wire harness on the side of the head. But both still bolt on in other places so - oh well.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10381.jpg

Some random engine bay photos. Impossible for this area to be clean. PA sucks.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10382.jpg
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Clean one going back on.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10386.jpg
Minus some... crap. I have 37,000 miles on my IM and there is over a 1mm thick coal all thru it. No thank you.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10387.jpg

Putting it all back together.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10388.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10389.jpg
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http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10392.jpg

And the wires inside all buttoned up. Yay, I can put my interior back.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10394.jpg

Things to note;
-all emissions lines are removed. EGR code is turned off via ecuflash
-all emissions solenoids are still plugged in, but do nothing.
-I had already removed the IM stay when I did the clutch.
-^ This REALLY makes getting the manifold off easier.
-the bottom bolts are still a huge pitfa.

--I found a split in my GReddy boost gauge line while doing this. It now reads right.
--My injectors did not want to seat right, so I had a hissing leak until I loosened the rail and set the bottom seals in, lined up each (&^%$*(&%#@ injector... and slowly painstakingly tighten the rail bolts down. Other than that no issues.

Still have one wire connection and cleanup to do in the trunk.
And plug the controller harness in and connect it to the pump wire.
And it will all be done.

:)

[Asmodeus]

I'm going to notch the bezel so they don't make it sit funny. But this is where I mounted the LED's.
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10395.jpg

I finished hooking everything else up today, and boost leak tested the car in preparation. Found some nasty shit. My boost controller line was split badly. Bad bad bad... The exit nipple was loose on the Hallman as well. And my valve cover leaks badly at both the pcv, and the breather line to the intake. At least, at 30psi they do. My oil cap gave up the ghost just after that. Found a small leak at the meth pump too. (fluid) Went out, gave it a rip, and BANG! Car goes ill sounding... still running... hmm... Pull over and the UICP blew clean off the TB. I didn't even get a chance to look at the boost gauge (which now reads) But it was well north of 1.5 BAR. Good stuff.

My setup is an M8 nozzle set up to come on at 15psi, max at 30psi. Peak -20* windshield washer fluid spiked with a bottle of HEAT to raise the meth content. Then it rained and the car was feeling a little more liberal with the power so I decided to wait until tomorrow for the fine tuning. In the part throttle boosting I did, the meth came on and the knock I was used to seeing disappeared. A/F's went a bit rich. Meth is on and working.

[karakzhen]

Always cracking up something over there aren't you.

You never cease to amaze me. :cool:

[gSx-LeX]

Let me know how you like that meth kit. That is my next big purchase, and I still haven't decided which one to go with.

[Asmodeus]

I like it. I may need to move the nozzle from the IM up a bit. Not sure how even the distribution is midway down the manifold. But if that side typically gets more air, then the thought was it will be happier with more meth.

I have maft pro so I kinda had to go my own way. I wasn't up for spending aquamist money either. I have an account with Labonte Motor Sports (they make all the kits Snow sells and rebadges) so I went this route.

Right now I'm spiking -20* WW fluid with HEET to get the desired meth ratio. It works out pretty well, most -20* fluid is 30-35% meth, HEET is 98% meth. I gallon, 12 oz bottle of heet... ends up being almost 40% meth / water.

I'm running a fairly large nozzle, and it really sucks the shit down. I mean really sucks it down. Makes sense with how I drive. :) With maft pro, this shit gets a lot easier, another reason I went with the VC-100 controller. Its adjustable up to 100psi, instead of 29psi like the VC-25/VC-25D. I also do not have a MAF. So, the VC-25D (which is the normal mitsu go to controller, varying onset by maf readings and boost) was not an option either. I think its only like $10< more than the other ones. And it works with two simple dials. Start and Max. This way I can tailor the curve to follow boost the way I want it. However I haven't found that necessary. Maft Pro not only dumps the MAF, but feed it a WB02, and it will AF/Track. So that typical bog with a big meth hit, or the need to sit down and really tune it... not needed.

It just balances the AF ratio back out to where you had it reading off the WB02. Including the meth thats being introduced. To keep my correction factors lower, I hooked up the Pro's AUX trigger to reduce fuel when it sees the meth on. I keep ticking a few %'s away each time until the AF ratio stabilizes sooner and the AF/Tracking doesn't have to do so much. Plus this doesn't change my tune. It only compensates when the meth is triggered on. So everything else stays the same. If meth is on, it does its thing, if not, regularly scheduled program AF ratio.

I'm sure I could extract more power with it if I broke it all down / turned the tracking off, did a full retune, and then the same thing when the meth was on to the tune of a leaner AF ratio... maybe when I have a lot of free time to tinker with it. Right now AF tracking allows me to be fast without putting time in. My timing curve is untouched, but was fairly aggressive to begin with. I haven't even changed the boost really. I get 1.7-1.8BAR in most gears. Or about 26psi. I'll probably push that up to 2BAR, and see how it does. But even without really changing anything the car hauls. Acting merely as an octane buffer, and post intercooler cooler... it was well worth the money. Honestly I think because my tune was so hairy, its finally extracting the power it should have been capable of minus any spurious knock.

The LMS kits include more than the Snow ones. And are still cheaper for the same thing. The Fluid solenoid, $40, comes with the kit. So does literally everything else you need. I bought the FLS-10 (fluid level switch) and installed it in the factory washer bottle. Which also still hoses off the windshield if NEED be. That sucker holds a gallon of fluid, and does it conveniently out of the way. Short of some extra wire for the LED's, and the main pump activation wire, some heat shrink and solder, the kit is complete. I would opt for the $15 of extra tube tho. At least if you cut twice measure after you cut twice like I do. :P

Even at retail, the LMS kit wouldn't even be $400 with the stuff I added. Minus a failsafe however. Whereas the Snow is $429 + + +
A failsafe will set you back another hundo or so. But I'm running without for the time being, which is also why I haven't gone crazy with the tune or boost.

[K_Mans_TSI]

Stupid cars.

[Asmodeus]

It comes with a deactivation wire too, but I haven't decided how I want that to work yet.

I would imagine the clutch switch... but since the evo is a fuel based rev limit, I want to see how it reacts to meth being sprayed on the launch limiter before I hook that up.


What it does is make building boost on the launch limiter a LOT louder, and build boost a ton easier. :D Its basically a way to introduce a fuel like substance to get the party going even tho the ecu is pulling it. Works like a charm.

Kiss my ass Mitsubishi. :P

[gSx-LeX]

I've been fondling the idea of getting the Snow Performance Evo kit, but you may have sold me on the LMS one.

[Spoolin69]

Hot looking plate there Brother!!! I wonder where you got that????????;)

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/Misc%20Stuff/SDC10387.jpg

[blue_gsx]

Have a link on where to purchase this kit?

[Asmodeus]

www.labontemotorsports.com

If you want to look around at their stuff.