Pick my next turbo

[Asmodeus]

Unfortunately recent events incurred the loss of my GT3076R. In my personal opinion this was a match made in heaven on a 2.0L street car. I liked it more than many other things I have used, or experienced through others.

It had a nice punch that pulled strong up top, but still made 26-28psi by 3800rpm. Throttle response was crisp, recovery was faster than I can personally shift the car. IMO this was the perfect turbo. However...

I did a boost leak test on the car recently (keep in mind I was NOT having a single issue with the turbo previous to this) and it shot oil out of the compressor inlet. (And secretly all through the IC) Now I have driven it a bit to try to blast out any residual oil left from that day and it seems to be more fresh oil coming at this point. I even did a leak test less than a month ago and none of this happened.

Turbo probably has 20k on it. About half of what I would have expected seeing that it seemed healthy up until this point. To be honest I'm not only frustrated but confused as well. No real shaft play, spins for 3 min after I shut it down, gets filtered, restricted oil from the head. No abnormal circumstances, blades look good, no using oil previous... It would only build about 20-25psi or so until it leaked down out of the VC. (possibly pressurizing thru turbo oil system) So its not like I shoved 50psi in the system and wondered why things went wrong. PCV is new, TB shaft seals are new... compression test was good. I even checked the head stud torque. Then bam. Oil everywhere after a leak check. And I mean everywhere. The Tial bov is now an oil distribution device... blasting anywhere from a half cup to a table spoon of oil on a wot lift.

It seems to be lessening as I drive it. (I wrapped the bov in a rag) But it still pushes oil out of the compressor inlet slightly, and I still get some oil on the rag. I could tear the charge piping and IC off to clean them, and I will. But I wanted to see if it was any hope before I pulled it all to clean it. Instead of putting it back and having to tear it all back off again.

So since that is most likely toast... I have to make a decision on a new turbo.

Motor has 37k on it. Compression is good. Have head studs and cams. Otherwise stock... I'd like it to last a while if at all possible.

I would like to put another 30R on it, but I'm a little gun shy at this point. Sucking it up and putting a fresh CHRA in may be what I do. But... there's always the possibility of switching teams.

My range is basically 3076R or bigger up to 35R. But that encompasses a good bit of options.
-BW-
S256
S258
S362
-PTE-
35R
6162 billet
-FP-
HTA 35R
Evo RED

And probably every 50 trim available. As well as some other stuff.

Car is set up to run a T3 inlet with a 4 bolt on center discharge. So that includes about anything I want 35R and down. I'm also fairly certain if I go HTA GT35R my motor is not going to enjoy life at 500hp+ I have meth so it will not be hard to put anything on and push it into the stratosphere. In fact, I was approaching it with the 30R. So I'm trying to stay in the same range, maybe something slightly more efficient, durable, that loses a little spool in contrast.

Which is why the BW turbo's are on the list. Also cost, I was in no position to be feeding a turbo to the 4G63 gods at the moment, and did not really intend to pop $1700 on a turbo any time soon. IE: A long time. Possibly a year or two.

Honestly I was happy with the 3076R. Thoughts suggestions? Opinions?

[lazylaser]

I still can't get over the fact that your seals blew out on a 25,000 mile turbo during a boost leak test...
I don't know anything about the other turbos that you’re looking into, but the 3076 was a match made in heaven for your car. I just can't see dropping another $1200 in a 3076 if it’s only going to last another 25,000 miles on a d.d., if that was a fluke and it’s a generally unheard of (them lasting so shortly) failure I would go from the same one.

[Spoolin69]

If you like what you had stick with it! I loved my 3052 and will be going the same route once I purchase an EVO of my own. Stick with it or go huge.

Shane

[Burnett03]

Hands down, HTA 35r. Local guy here is stomping liter bikes with that turbo.

[Asmodeus]

Yeah, but especially now, this is going to put a large dent in the - start buying parts to rebuild my motor fund. And I'll be honest. I have a huge problem with can and should.

I CAN get a HTA 35R, put it on, and push it into the sky with meth.
I should not do that at all because it will surely blow up my motor in a relatively short time.

But since I "can" I will. Some of you may be ok with 22psi on a particular setup, but I'm sure 23psi feels better. Then 24... 25.... woo hoo 30!

What I'm saying is whatever goes on there is most likely going to see 28psi within a week of it being on there. I just know me and my personal addiction to this kind of shit.

What I was thinking is a kind of compromise.
S258 .55 A/R hotside so it spools similar to the 30R but moves it up from 52lb/min to 58lb/min.

Should increase lag maybe 500 or so, but give me another 30hp to play with and better power under the curve as well. And also put me in a rebuildable platform should things go south again.

Small bump without going off the deep end. I'm already pushing it for a stock engine.

Push it real good. Duh duh dun dun da daa da da daaa

What would really be nice is a way to fix the seals on the 3076R. There isn't a rubbing event, no real shaft play, and it spins freely. No abnormal noise... Even coughing oil it still spools exactly the same, and builds boost just like it did before.

:dunno:

[slow talon]

Buy new seals and have the wheels balanced.

[lazylaser]

Buy new seals and have the wheels balanced.

The only problem with that is that its a ball bearing turbo.

[1timehondalover]

I say give one of the BW extended tips a try. They seem to be all the rage lately and have been proven to outperform the HTA wheels.

[dsm614]

try a 4788 out... haha

[greenstreak]

E16G.
If it isn't on your list it should be.:dunno:

[1timehondalover]

Maybe an Evo 9 turbo? Good enough for low 11's on E85 http://www.502streetscene.net/forum/showthread.php?t=122534

[Chicago_DSM]

EvoGreen without a doubt, but then you would have to go back to a mitsu housing. It won't make more power then what your 30r did, but I guarantee you it will make the same and be way more fun to drive. There's always the EvoRed too, but for that money you are looking into HTA 35r pricing.

The T3 Borg S258 will be a bit laggier then your 30r, but it should make more power.

[dannyrampage]

Buy a new turbo that it.

[1timehondalover]

Buy a new turbo that it.
^ That may be the worst post I've ever seen. :dunno:

[Asmodeus]

I say give one of the BW extended tips a try. They seem to be all the rage lately and have been proven to outperform the HTA wheels.

Link(s)? Because I may not be looking hard enough but just about anything and everything that has been put up against the HTA 35R has gotten its ass kicked. Including one of PTE's latest offerings that got sent back to the bench because of it.

I'm thinking BW as a step up from the 30R, but not the full step to the 35HTA.

E16G.
If it isn't on your list it should be.:dunno:

If I had to go back to the stock turbo I would sell the car.

EvoGreen without a doubt, but then you would have to go back to a mitsu housing. It won't make more power then what your 30r did, but I guarantee you it will make the same and be way more fun to drive. There's always the EvoRed too, but for that money you are looking into HTA 35r pricing.

The T3 Borg S258 will be a bit laggier then your 30r, but it should make more power.

Same deal here, I skipped the green in favor of the 30R and I never regretted that choice. 80% of the green guys are looking for more and went to the 35R HTA the second the option became available. Internal waste gates, spike, taper, and not pulling thru redline. Are all things I... I just can't do anymore. I've been doing this too long to put up with that kind of shit on my own car. I have $1000 worth of SS exhaust manifold and o2 housing set up for any T3 4 bolt on center I can fit between the block and the radiator, best believe I'm going to use it.

Truth is, the 30R was a balance between my power junky and my "its a d/d keep it sane" warring personalities in my mind. It ripped on top like a big turbo, made every lick of boost at 8k as it did at 3800. And with the meth, I could push the thing to the moon. I didn't even get a chance to get the tune finished. I was still adding timing, everywhere. And it was still almost a point rich. And that was barely 50/50. More like 45/55 or <. I had a lot of room yet at about 28psi. I leak checked the car because I was moving up to 30.

Then the turbo became an oil pump.
:(

I'm leaning heavily on the BW 258 in a .55 A/R to keep the power in a useable range so I do not have to rev the car to oblivion. But I'm worried about it fitting. I know I can get it in a 4 bolt housing. But the turbine housing itself is almost an inch and half thicker than a garrett. Which will push my o2 housing into accessories.

In the mean time, no more oil is coming out of the compressor inlet. Due to my excessive anger-tation, and rain. I decided a sock over the bov is a suitable oil stopper to keep my car from catching fire. And went out to "force" the oil out of the charge pipes. Boost is down to about 26psi. Maybe less. And its still blasting it out of the bov heavily. But no sign of it anywhere in the compressor housing.

Oil coming out of the bov does NOT look like the fresh oil I added. But dear fucking christ... how much oil could possibly be in the IC...

[16G_tsi_awd]

HTA 3076R. Call forced performance and ask them if they can save it and HTA it. Faster spool little more power :D

Whats ghey is that the hta3076 is the same price as the hta3582. :tat:

[Asmodeus]

IF, they could save it, and HTA it. It would THEN and only THEN be worth the $800 they want to HTA an existing 3076R. :eek:

Like... I called months ago and... I'm thinking, ok its FP. Take whatever I think it would cost to pop a compressor wheel on and matching cover. And double it. My brain then computes something in the $300-450 range as a fairly good estimation of what FP might charge. Then I ask, and I hear, $800. And I almost dropped the phone. I managed to say ok thank you for the information and get off of the phone before my the reasoning center in my brain come off the hinge.

WAT?

Eighthundredfuckingdollars? No no Really... REALLY?
The turbo only costs $1200 for a whole new turbo... Who are we kidding here? Does it come with strippers that can cook and do laundry? I mean ? :dunno:

But in this situation it would be worth it if they could salvage the turbo.

[Asmodeus]

Still no oil from the compressor housing. Checked the oil feed and filter today just to be sure this wasn't a foreign material / starvation issue. It was so clean there wasn't a single spec of anything. Not a grain. Nothing. I change the oil religiously & early. I use OEM filters... and Earl's -4AN inline filter for the turbo. Blew thru the line and it wasn't plugged either.

Still getting some oil from the bov. But seemingly less and less.

Boost was turned down to 20-22psi to be safe. Went back up a turn to 25-26psi. (about 1.7-1.8 BAR says the GReddy) No change in the amount of oil coming from the bov. Just a little spotting on the sock I have strapped around it. Nothing from the compressor inlet.

I know its shot. But... it may give me some time to decide on the new turbo. Instead of having to put the stocker back on.

[HOT97ECLIPSEGSX]

If it's not coming from your turbo outlet it's probably gunked in your intercooler, TB, and everything else :)

Try cleaning your IC and see if it takes care of the problem? :dunno:

[Asmodeus]

Yeah, I was saving that for pre-new turbo. Due to lazy, and I really don't want to do it twice if this thing so happens to turn into an oil pump again. Plus, if I pop the charge piping off... its not like I can boost leak test the whole system again... I mean... look what happened the last time. And if she's already about to quit. Making it pressurize earth, then my charge piping... is going to kill it real fast.

Especially if I'm already planning on pushing it into the red. At least right now I know it doesn't have any major leaks. So I'm hesitant...

I'm not worried about it gunking up anything post UICP though... meth takes care of that REEEEEEAAAL fucking quick. You should see my shiny throttle plate after a week on the other TB. Its uh, melty almost. :(

[flexnuts02]

If it's not coming from your turbo outlet it's probably gunked in your intercooler, TB, and everything else :)

Try cleaning your IC and see if it takes care of the problem? :dunno:

Ugh I just did that yesterday for the second time in about 200 miles. I go from the intake to the throttle boddy when I clean it, except for the turbo and I will even pull off the vac lines and spray brake clean through them. Oil in the intake makes such a mess so fast!

[Asmodeus]

Well imagine a quart. Yes, a quart. Pouring down the compressor outlet into the IC. Then imagine launching half cup fulls out of the 360* opening of a TiAl 50mm bov at 26psi.

That... is a mess.

[lazylaser]

So is the motor using more oil since the original leak? Is the oil blasting out of the BOV residual, or is it fresh.

IS the turbo broke or was that some kind of fluke? Would you ever trust that turbo again on your car ?

[Got Insulin?]

Pics of SOV?

Sock off Valve? ROFL

[Asmodeus]

So is the motor using more oil since the original leak? Is the oil blasting out of the BOV residual, or is it fresh.

IS the turbo broke or was that some kind of fluke? Would you ever trust that turbo again on your car ?

No more oil is missing, car is still "too full". From when it played the oil houdini trick on me the other day. I added some, came home still looked low, added more, pulled the stick again and it was too full. :rolleyes:
Oil appears to be older, not fresh oil that I added.

Turbo builds boost just like it did before. Nothing changed, not the sound, the time it takes to spool, boost it holds, doesn't knock, temps didn't change... blades look 100%. No marks on the housing... still takes a minute or two to spin down when I shut it off. :dunno:

I don't trust it for a second. I'll push it up to 30psi again and see if it assplodes.

Sock off valve... ha... so not funny. Even though it is funny. :P :(

[dsmfan95]

I have the EvoRed and I love it. It performs good on pump gas, but it's definitely a high boost, race gas type turbo.

The biggest advantage to the EvoRed is getting good power without having to shell out a lot of money for a kit. If you already have a kit, might as well step it up. My recommendation would be the HTA35R. I had a friend switch from a standard 35R to an HTA35R, and with no other changes picked up around 35whp at the same boost level. I believe timing remained the same, only minor adjustments to the A/F.

[Asmodeus]

I wouldn't run race gas, but I would run enough meth to push it into its happy place. What are you seeing for boost, and when?

Any hp #'s or?

[Chicago_DSM]

If Im not mistaken, the .55a/r housing for the BW turbo's are a mitsu housing (?) I thought the T3 housings were .70, the one's made by Bullseye. But perhaps Evo's are different?

[Asmodeus]

You could be right Josh. But it looks like they have them in a T3 too. Dave didn't say anything about it not being available when I sent the request to my supplier. (4 bolt .55 T3, and 4 bolt .70 T3) But I don't know for certain if they are the 4 bolt on center housings. It doesn't say. That could be where I get fucked.

http://www.bullseyepower.com/S200.asp
I hope they do, and have it in SS as well. I'll pay the extra hundo or so for that. Hole in the hood doesn't exactly promote long life on an iron one. My 30R looks like I soaked it daily in salt water. Its terrible how much water sits on top the engine when it rains.

The other part of it, is what wheel in the back side? If you look HERE:
http://www.bullseyepower.com/catalog.asp

There are 2 options for the hotside as well.
69.5/61.5
And,
74/64

Both in .55 and .70 A/R. I was told in response to my asking for it to spool like the 30R. That the .55 A/R will basically spool like the 30R. Which is what I want. I don't rev high enough to take advantage of any increased head room. On the street I shift at 7. At the track, maybe 7500,7750.

I'm trying to keep this motor together for a while. I haven't gotten a chance to do the rod bolts, or vs&ret like I need to. That was also on the list before this came up.

[dsmfan95]

I wouldn't run race gas, but I would run enough meth to push it into its happy place. What are you seeing for boost, and when?

Any hp #'s or?

I am seeing peak boost right before 4000 rpms, it drives almost identical to a stock turbo as far as part throttle boost goes. Only it doesn't surge as bad. On 30psi and E85, I made 456whp/393wtq on Buschur's Dyno.

[Asmodeus]

^ Not shabby at all.

Aforementioned sock off valve... sigh...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Asmodeus6/EVO/SDC10486.jpg

Its not really shooting any more oil. Seems to have stopped for the most part.

[Die-Civic-Die]

I know how much you love 60-1's, Asmo.
Just get one of those.

[Asmodeus]

Yeah... I think I'd do that right before the 16g.

[Marq97GSX]

Get something you won't regret at all. Something that won't have you saying, "I should have gone bigger."

[Asmodeus]

Absolutely. But I'm trying to balance that with - man I shouldn't have gone so big- I broke the damn motor in 6 months. Fuck now what? Because I honestly didn't have the funds set aside for the turbo, let alone building an evo motor.

Building the motor is not in the cards at the moment. So I'm trying to balance things out. This is where I think the BW 258 allows for a small bump, still spools like the 30R, and I can step up to a better flowing wheel on both sides of the turbo.

Dave said take the .55 A/R with the larger turbine wheel and it will still spool similar to the 30R, but outflow it on top... and probably make more power across the board.

I don't competitively do anything with the car. Its just a d/d. So I'm shying away from the 35R sized options at the moment. No use in having the extra lag if I'm not going to use the power that comes with it. And right now I just can't afford to lose an engine. Maybe in a year or two.

[Got Insulin?]

Thanks for the SOV shots. It's going to be coupled with a picture that says "This newb vents, too; You can haz SOV."



:P

[Asmodeus]

Awesome. Real glad I made that so convenient for you.

[94HIPSITSi]

Asmodeus, boost testing should not have caused this. Turbo may have been hurt prior. What's your oil supply and drain setup? Could the oil supply be too much or the drain inadequate/clogged?

[Asmodeus]

Oil supply is a -4AN feeding from the head, with an earls full filter, running down to a inlet restrictor, then into the turbo. I checked both the filter for obstructions (none, not even a fleck of metal/debris) and I also blew through the line. It was not clogged, it passed.

The drain is a -10AN setup. No restriction here. I have run this setup on multiple cars through the years and you could drop a dime through this style drain tube.

If the turbo was hurt, it was when I turned the boost up from 25psi on leaking TB shaft seals. Then boost leak test again a month later and bango... turbo seals have been pushed from turbo pressurizing Pennsylvania + my charge piping. Erik @ JNZ reported a weight lifting off his shoulders when I fixed the TB shaft seals. They were leaking bad, worse than I thought at first.

Huml from SBR added this to the equation. The Garrett BB center sections seals are in part balanced by the opposing forces in the cold side and hot side. Similar to a piston ring, the exhaust pressure keeps oil out of the hotside and the positive pressure on the cold side keeps oil in the center section. Boost leak test the car on cold seals that are starting to be worn, and it will blow right by them. While the turbo still is FINE. Just that particular situation exaggerates the weakness. He was more concerned with me coming up and doing a leak down test on the motor to make sure I haven't cooked rings that are building pressure in the crankcase.

He kinda called it. He said just get the oil out of the system, the turbo is fine. Once it heats up again it will seal and be fine.

Kurt, however thought it was possible the turbo was solely the problem. My pressurizing the valve cover etc while leak checking, was because it was blasting through the center section and up the feed / drain. Which was giving me pressure everywhere it shouldn't be.

I still think Kurt is right on the money.
I think Mike is right too.

My synopsis is the following.
The turbo is injured to some degree. IE its not new anymore. Whether it was the 8000 miles of SBR drag/autoX it saw running nothing but C16 and 30psi. Or the subsequent 15k miles on my car of mostly highway... then suddenly going back to 30psi and meth... on leaking seals... possibly being forced to make 38psi to get 30psi in the motor? Either way, she's not 100% anymore. So when it was cold and I filled it full of pressure, then pinched off the pcv to keep it out of the valve cover... it went up the feed and down the drain with increased force. Blasting oil past cold seals in out... everywhere.

Once I ran the car again, heated them back up, and blasted all the oil out of the system. And am not leaking ANY boost out of the shaft seals... back to normal. Turbo isn't being overworked... so it doesn't continue to degrade further. And thus no more oil.

Best I can come up with at this point.

[K_Mans_TSI]

;)

[Asmodeus]

Still waiting on a solid answer about the turbine housing on the S258. The HAFE o2 / manifold is SBR's home turf. Been talking with Mike and he's certain the standard BEP 4 bolt T3 is wider than the Garrett 4 bolt pattern and will not fit.

So he said I would have to get it shoved into a T31 turbine housing to fit properly. He made a 02 housing to get his on their old evo.

Luckily... the 30R is holding up while I make up my mind and figure this all out.

[STikillinTsi]

Let me know what mike says. i am very interested in the s258 as well. I have a pte 50trim that smokes. My car looks like a banshee smoking when Im at a stop or when I rev it or first take off. It doesn't seem to smoke when doing a pull or getting on it... I did however blow up my old 7 bolt with this turbo so i am thinking that i might have blown some metal through it. Minimal shaft play spools fine but does leak oil out of BOV. So Im done with it and want a turbo not as laggy as a 35r but one that will put me at around 525fwhp or more. I was thinking the s256 extended tip. By buddy has one and put 480awhp and 434awtq at 30psi. I know that woudl put me at about 500fwhp. But this s258 setup with the different wheel sounds maybe a little more powerful and might have better top end? Let me know what you find out.

[Asmodeus]

My problem with fitment is purely on the Evo Hafe t3 manifold and 02 housing. If you're talking FWHP. You do not mean an Evo. And none of this applies to you.

You just order a DSM bolt on housing, or t3 - whatever housing and you're good.

The issue here is fitment with my existing kit. I've already bounced my idea of running the S258 in the .55A/R with the 64/74 wheel on the hotside off Dave Hall (BEP) and he said it should spool similar to the 30R but make more power on the 2.0L.

There is a Opel Calibra on youtube with the S258 in a T3 .70 A/R that does 600+fwhp. Search "S258 turbo". Its the second one down. So I think a .55 A/R housed 258 will do 500whp. But it did spool later... looked to make full power around 5k. (But that's no telling compression, cams, timing, A/F...)

[STikillinTsi]

Where is the best deal that you have found so far on the s258? I did a little research and they seem to be going as much as a 35r.

[Asmodeus]

I get them at wholesale. I am a vendor. But they are still pretty steep considering they are a journal bearing turbo. Upside is, if you don't wipe wheels out or totally fry the CHRA... they are rebuildable. Much like your PTE. Which, is deep fried at this point.

[The_EE]

I say you go 20g :P

Anything sticking out as your choice yet Dustin?

[Asmodeus]

S258 if I can get it to fit. Which isn't looking likely. Seems to be the right in between 30-35r in the smaller A/R turbine housing.

[frankozz]

2g t25 :D

[Asmodeus]

HA... ha... :rolleyes:

EVO

:dunno:

[94HIPSITSi]

Asmodeus, would you not consider the 30r as the perfect street/strip 2 liter turbo anymore since you are looking at something bigger? I know you're gun shy about using another 30r but yours may not have had the most healthy operating conditions from what you stated and your pressure test may have sealed it's fate. I know rebuilding the ball bearing version isnt worth it versus buying a new one but have you considered the journal bearing version instead?

[4_fingered_GST]

Holset HX40 :D

-Josh

[Asmodeus]

Asmodeus, would you not consider the 30r as the perfect street/strip 2 liter turbo anymore since you are looking at something bigger? I know you're gun shy about using another 30r but yours may not have had the most healthy operating conditions from what you stated and your pressure test may have sealed it's fate. I know rebuilding the ball bearing version isn't worth it versus buying a new one but have you considered the journal bearing version instead?

No I still do. I'm just considering new options as well. If I can get a JB turbo that spools like the 30R and is more efficient, then who am I to stand in the way of progress. Plus I pick up what 6lb/min? I'm not one to feed the car race gas. Just meth & pump. So if it's more efficient the whole way around. Maybe I can do a little better on the BWS258.

[945liter]

S362! Makes mroe power then a fwd street car can handle. If you ever wanna turn it up, or awd, ir ready to go. I run a S472 on my mustang. I love BW turbos.

[hawaiifiveoh]

He has an EVO, as in, AWD unless you are a mad crazy awesome drifter.

[Asmodeus]

3 page thread. Not so hard to read. Even my sig denotes every single car I own is AWD.

362 is enough to break the shit out of a stock motor. Thus problem.

[STikillinTsi]

I bet a BW s256 would do it. There is one on here for sale. Unless your looking to buy Brand New.

[Asmodeus]

Is it T3?

[STikillinTsi]

It just has a dsm flange. It was bolted to a 2g exhuast and is external gated.

[Asmodeus]

I'm using a HAFE cast stainless steel T3 exhaust manifold. The o2 housing is also a HAFE cast stainless steel 4 bolt, on center. This is $1000 worth of shit that works really damn well. Doesn't crack, and doesn't rust.

I need a T3, 4 bolt on center turbo.


To be honest. I like kicking around the idea. But the Garrett is still going. No more oil out of it. None out of the bov. And she's back up to 28psi.

Spools better than before. Think those shaft seals were really putting the screws to my situation.

I don't know how, but I don't care. I have time now to think about what I REALLY want. Because this thing doesn't seem to want to stop.

[lazylaser]

Ok so now that the turbo is working fine and dosen't leak any oil are you going put your air filter back on...

[Asmodeus]

Uhh, no. That ain't a washable K&N... its soggier than the titanics titties. Means I have to get another filter.

Bah... I like it off. I hate that intake. Its stupid and it fits stupid.

[gSx-LeX]

I haven't read much of this thread, but I was going to suggest the s256 as well. Looks like someone beat me to it!

[ACE OF DIAMONDS]

Anyone use an AMS 850R??

[Asmodeus]

This thread must be the king of all search depositories of off topic bullshit.

Just lock it up Lex. I've had enough.

[10secclub]

I too am running a 3076r on a basicially stock 2.0 and have ran into the same issue and have thought of going a different route maybe fp3065 but just really love the 30r. I might be wrong but i think i checked with garret once and they sell the complete center section for like 500-600 dollars

[Asmodeus]

^ You are indeed correct. I thought about that too. Unfortunately... the last time I tried to take the turbo apart. (When I initially got it) It was non-compliant.

Meaning, 4 people, a torch, and SBR's old porter (BIG John) tried getting the hotside off. It was not happening. Even with a mallet. It didn't so much as budge. (I really wanted to send the whole thing out to get ceramic coated.) And didn't because I couldn't get it apart.

So I'm aware of the CHRA option. I just don't know if she'll come apart!

[gSx-LeX]

Locked per Dustin's request.