1990 Laser Wire Tuck Action

[123abc]

Thought I would start this thread for myself to keep track of what I've done and for others who love a clean engine bay.

I've had this car for about 3-4 years now. My parent's got me it when I was a senior in highschool as an early graduation present. It was the first turbo car I've ever been in and when I test drove it for the first time, thought it was the fastest thing ever. This is what it looked like the first day I had it home:

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/500/medium/DCP01953.JPG

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/500/medium/DCP01947.jpg

This is the engine bay about a year later. I never really did much with it except drive it:

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/DCP02041.JPG

Then one day after school, I came out to start up the car and go home, when I noticed my clutch wouldn't disengage. I called my dad up and we got it home. It was then that I decided to have a local DSM'er do a stock rebuild on it and fab up a 3 inch exhaust. It was at that point I got motor mount inserts, an XTD Stage 2 clutch, 3 inch exhaust. He did a b/s elimination, and put on a greddy timing belt.

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/DCP02050.JPG

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/DCP02051.JPG

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/DCP02053.JPG

The problem came though that I was scared to work on it. I didn't know anything about f/i and my dad knew only old mopars. So I picked up a nice daily driver just after highschool and parked the laser in the back yard for a year.

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/532/medium/DCP02067.JPG

The following winter came in and I got sick my my Avenger. It was fully loaded, but was slower than shit. So I talked with the bank and added more to my loan. Worked on it, and the result was this:

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/DCP02305.JPG

Up untill just recently, that setup proved to be very nice. When spring this year came around and I got my tax returns, I sprung for an evo 9 pump and 560cc injectors, a maf-t unit with 3 in. MAFS. Also picked up an AEM UEGO wideband.

Life was sweet at 18-19 psi on the stock turbo:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKeweSBkLCk

Then just this last week, the same deal happened with my clutch. I was going back to work during lunch hour, and noticed I couldn't get it into gear. "What the hell, my clutch won't disengage!" I thought it over for a couple days, and formed a plan.

1. Fix the oil leaks I've neglected. When I switched to synthetic oil at about 4k miles on the longblock, it started leaking real bad. I'm sick of dirty engine bays.

2. My semi-wire tuck I did last year was starting to look a bit half-assed to me. Again, I hate dirty engine bays, and love how clean those hondar boys and the vw guys do their engine bays. This will include completely hiding the wire harness and shaving a lot of holes and painting the engine bay. I want to shock people when I open the hood.

3. A friend gave me a china e3 16g for next to nothing with a little in and out, but no leaks and worked for him for many miles. I've decided to throw it on and try my luck in the quest for more power.

So to bring you up to the present, here is how the car sits right now:

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10355.JPG

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10360.JPG

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10358.JPG

Wish me luck. lol

[123abc]

Got the clutch off last night and took some pics. Looks to me like the material holding the springs in on the side they broke is much thinner than the other side. That plus me dumping the clutch for fun did it in.

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10361.JPG

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10362.JPG

The PP looks good to me though. Can I just find a different disc and throw that in without messing with the pp and flywheel? This crap has like 4k miles on it.

[MindBlowin03]

On the cheap... resurface the flywheel, buy an OEM 2G clutch disk and throw it all back together. The right way... buy a used ACT 2600, resurface the flywheel, buy an OEM 2G clutch disk and be done with it.

[vaboys2ndgen]

fwd or awd? do clutches make a difference?

[4g63tcrazy]

His car is fwd. And no the clutches are the same. It's the flywheel's that make a difference.

[vaboys2ndgen]

Gotcha. OP you have a PM.

[123abc]

I took the transmission into work last night after they were closed and took it out into the carwash and pressure washed it. Degreased it, scrubbed it, and washed it. Came out much better than before, but it still has some aluminum varnish on it. Anyone know an easy way to clean it up?

[spare tire]

The best way to get a factory fresh look is to bead blast the case, using walnut shells or glass bead.

[123abc]

Can I do this safely while it's together?

[123abc]

How harsh are 6 puck clutches really? I'm not asking from a dd point of view. I'm talking a fun car for weekends and nice days. I'm thinking about going with a stronger 6 puck disc instead of a street disc.

Here's some current status pics. Been working pretty slowly on it. Sanding the whole engine bay by hand is a pain in the ASS. I've just got a few more holes to sand down to bear metal then I'll be slapping on the bondo.

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10403.JPG

I modified the engine mount and am quite happy with the clean look. I'm not leaving that paint on there, I shot it on to test out a color and to see how my mount looks:

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10404.JPG

Here is the transmission all cleaned up:

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10406.JPG

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10407.JPG

Here is the one issue with the china e3 compressor housing:

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10405.JPG

If you look closely, you can see the wastegate is put up flush where it's suppose to be bolted. However, the wastegate arm is too long to keep the flapper closed 100%. I'm thinking some spacers on the wg actuator mount will do the trick with some longer bolts.

[Morpherex]

How harsh are 6 puck clutches really? I'm not asking from a dd point of view. I'm talking a fun car for weekends and nice days. I'm thinking about going with a stronger 6 puck disc instead of a street disc.

Here's some current status pics. Been working pretty slowly on it. Sanding the whole engine bay by hand is a pain in the ASS. I've just got a few more holes to sand down to bear metal then I'll be slapping on the bondo.

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10403.JPG

I modified the engine mount and am quite happy with the clean look. I'm not leaving that paint on there, I shot it on to test out a color and to see how my mount looks:

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10404.JPG

Here is the transmission all cleaned up:

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10406.JPG

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10407.JPG

Here is the one issue with the china e3 compressor housing:

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10405.JPG

If you look closely, you can see the wastegate is put up flush where it's suppose to be bolted. However, the wastegate arm is too long to keep the flapper closed 100%. I'm thinking some spacers on the wg actuator mount will do the trick with some longer bolts.

What type of filler are you using to fill in the holes?

[i need a dsm]

^ MAy I ask why the fuck did you quote his whole post with the pics???

Anyways.. car's looking good man, keep up the good work and its nice to see someone TRYING to take care of their dizzum

Why not get a ACT 2100/2600 and a nice clutch disk, isn't XTD some cheap stuff?

I like mindblowing's idea!

Adding the washers will also make your stock boost a little higher!

[TSimage]

What type of filler are you using to fill in the holes?

You shouldn't use filler at all... They should be welded closed. You may be able to get away with a JBweld/metal filler but at the end of the day if you aren't welding it, you're half assing it. :chair:


Why not get a ACT 2100/2600 and a nice clutch disk, isn't XTD some cheap stuff?

XTD>ACT if you compare price and performance. I ran a sprung stage 4 setup running 10s on a 35r setup in my 1g. Out performed my 2600 night and day and cost about $100+ LESS for the clutch kit plus lightened flywheel as it would for just the ACT clutch kit by itself..

[b00sted_spyder]

^ Is the XTD ebay clutch brand? And doesn't the springs pop out?

[Morpherex]

^ MAy I ask why the fuck did you quote his whole post with the pics???

Anyways.. car's looking good man, keep up the good work and its nice to see someone TRYING to take care of their dizzum

Why not get a ACT 2100/2600 and a nice clutch disk, isn't XTD some cheap stuff?

I like mindblowing's idea!

Adding the washers will also make your stock boost a little higher!

Oh look, it's the wanna-be fucking moderator. Shut up.

XTD is cheap. It's ebay.

I was mostly asking because it looks like you didn't have any weld grinds uncovered with bondo.

[lazylaser]

^ Is the XTD ebay clutch brand? And doesn't the springs pop out?

Yes, and yes. Junk. (from personal experience)

Although a flywheel from XTD is fine...

TSimage, is one of the few that has had luck with XTD clutches.

[Morpherex]

Yes, and yes. Junk. (from personal experience)

Although a flywheel from XTD is fine...

TSimage, is one of the few that has had luck with XTD clutches.

If you ask me their pressure plate is probably good, but disc is junk. Maybe using their PP with a southbend carbon kevlar disc would yield good results?

[lazylaser]

If you ask me their pressure plate is probably good, but disc is junk. Maybe using their PP with a southbend carbon kevlar disc would yield good results?

Maybe. I didn't have any problems with the PP, just the clutch disk. For reference (I've used a lot of different clutches) the XTD stage 3 petal felt similar to an ACT 2600 pp, not so much like a Centerforce dual friction pp which feels like, (little less) an act 2100 pp.

[TSimage]

If you ask me their pressure plate is probably good, but disc is junk. Maybe using their PP with a southbend carbon kevlar disc would yield good results?

^^^ WTF?

That sounds like a line out of a FnF movie..

But the disc operate fine. ACT disc also had issues with springs popping out. The same companies (Spec) make most of these parts so at the end of the day they are pretty close to the same.

I've had great results with it and I have pushed more power through it than most ever will. All of the local guys who have used it have also had success so until I personally see other wise than I shall believe so. The biggest problem with the DSM scene has always been their sheepishness, everyone scared to try something different, and if one person has an issue then all of a sudden its law. I have seen more GOOD reviews than BAD, pick your poison I guess.

None of them held like my PTT but that's another story.. At the end of the day, fk the 5spd and get an auto. ;)

[theblizz]

I run a 2600 with sprung 6 puck. Drives like a street disk.

[123abc]

Even though I ran an XTD stage 2 and broke the disc, I'm not going to knock it. I beat the shit out of my DSM every time I drive it. The fact that it lasted this long is alright in my book. I'm going to get an OEM 2g disc and throw it together.

Well, I soon descovered I suck with bondo right now so I'm not going to bother filling all the holes. Instead, I'm painting it and am going to put it together.

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10515.JPG

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10516.JPG

I'm just so damn sick of not driving it. I'm going down to the parts store this week and am going to have them mix me some paint to match my factory color. They can also compress it into a spray can, so lucky me.

If it seems like I am, no, I am not half assing it. I agree a lot with what tsimage said about welding the holes and not bondo-ing them. Hell, I'm going to tech school for auto tech so maybe I can bring it in for a project and weld the damn holes closed. Right now I want to drive it.

I don't know how people can have their DSM's down for years at a time.

[Black94DSM]

I don't know how people can have their DSM's down for years at a time.

I used to think that too until it happened to me. Going on 3 years and counting. It's easier to just let it sit than to stress yourself out working on it sometimes. lol

[1slow92]

It's easier to just let it sit than to stress yourself out working on it sometimes. lol

This is so true. I going on about a 1 1/2 years of mine sitting, and it should finally be back on the road this weekend.

[123abc]

It started happening with me though, weeks turned into months. But, I got my ass out there and got going again.


I applied the final painting today, and I must say looks spot on, chaps!

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10518.JPG

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10517.JPG

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10519.JPG

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10521.JPG

I just started un-masking it. I also have a friend of mine sand-blasting my i/c pipes and the water pipe so I can paint those items. I'll be taking my wiring harness over to my parent's place so my dad can help my solder up all those crimp connectors so I have a solid harness.


I can't wait for the MN all Mitsu Cookout this year!

[reddsmhatch]

Congrats bro ur car is looking hella fresh

[4g63tcrazy]

Uh oh.. Looks like I have some competition! Haha. But mine is still all original. Therefor you're cheating! BTW you have a PM on mitsustyle..

[123abc]

Uh oh.. Looks like I have some competition! Haha. But mine is still all original. Therefor you're cheating! BTW you have a PM on mitsustyle..

You actually filled all the holes though, I didn't. We shall see who's looks better, young grass hoppa.

[16G_tsi_awd]

Take the wastegate arm off the flapper. Carefully bend it more where there is already a bend. Then it should be short enough. It's pretty comin on all of the internal gated turbo's.

[123abc]

Take the wastegate arm off the flapper. Carefully bend it more where there is already a bend. Then it should be short enough. It's pretty comin on all of the internal gated turbo's.

Thanks. I was able to use washers and space it out from where it bolts to the compressor though.

[Mike1992]

Did you paint the engine bay with a spray can or a gun?? Looks good either way. I'm needing to touch up my bay and looking to get some mixed to match in a spray can.

If your looking for a disk that encases the springs so they can't pop out I suggest a clutchnet disk.

http://www.clutchnet.com/product.php?productid=3615&cat=0&page=1

I run this disk coupled with an ACT fly and ACT 2900 pp and its gravy.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f360/Lasercamel/ACT1.jpg
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f360/Lasercamel/ACT2.jpg

[123abc]

I already ordered the xtd 6 puck disc that has the springs enclosed like that one is. Thanks for the link though. :)


I had today off so I took the wiring harness over to my parents and me and my dad modified it and fixed it up where there were crimp connections we soldered them. I'm mouinting the injector resister box thing inside the car on the oposite side of the firewall. That and anything else that needs to be grounded. The MAFT box will sit in my center console, so I just pulled the stock one through. I do also plan to keep the factory heater core and fan setup. I will post pictures when we're all done with it and it's ready to go in.


This car won't know what to do it'll be so fresh. haha

[123abc]

Me and my dad finished up the wiring harness. I also got most of it installed, just need to do a few modifications to make it work. Took a few pics:

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10541.JPG

Here you can see where I mounted the injector resistor box, and the defroster relay along with the other diagnostic plugs for setting/checking timing, fuel pump, etc. I'm also mounting the fuse block that usually sits on the positive battery post into the glove box:

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10540.JPG

Here is the new clutch disc:

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10543.JPG

[123abc]

Well I picked the hottest day ever (monday) to put the transmission put in, but I got it done with the help of my local friend Carl. It didn't go too bad honestly. Carl said this was about 3 times easier than an awd tranny. I just hope this tranny won't leak.

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10555.JPG

I really hope this turbo lasts till the end of this year at least. It's not a big deal if it pukes early, I still have my 14b I can just swap into the hotside.

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10556.JPG

I get paid today so I'll be able to pick up a few gaskets I need and start to make some more progress. Still have some wiring to do, but it's all simple stuff.

[123abc]

Rolled it outside today for some pictures. Oil pan is on and torqued down, along with the turbo oil return line. The only things keeping me from starting it in fluids, water pipe, i/c pipes and 3 wires that need to be extended and ran to the gm mafs.

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10568.JPG

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10569.JPG

And yes Travis and Carl, I am still using my coffee mug/oil catch can!

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10567.JPG

The stray wire is the positive wire for the fan that just needs to be tied into that fuse block.

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10566.JPG

I bled the clutch but the pedal seems really light. Is there any other things besides bleeding it at the nipple on the slave?

[turbofonz]

Where did you mount the big fuse box?

[123abc]

Right where the stock sidemount use to be:

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10564.JPG

I'll be making new splash guards out of some aluminum I have since I have no idea where the originals are and this will be taking over daily driving duties.

[4g63tcrazy]

I've got the stock splash guards on mine and it's seen plenty of daily driving in the rain. Just make sure you cover up the bottom of the fuse box. (Now the top)

[123abc]

I've got the stock splash guards on mine and it's seen plenty of daily driving in the rain. Just make sure you cover up the bottom of the fuse box. (Now the top)

Have you had any problems with water getting in there? What do you mean cover the now top of the fuse box? Why would water get up there?

[4g63tcrazy]

Haven't looked for any water but no electrical issue's at all. There is a whole right where you mounted the fuse box that if you popped the hood you can see down and see the "bottom" of the fuse box where all the wires go in. Just for additional safety I would find a way to cover it up so no water at all can get into the back of the fuse box.

[Morpherex]

I like :).

[turbofonz]

Meh, I can't use that location.

Tomorrow I'll have to look at my parts car and get some ideas.

[123abc]

Meh, I can't use that location.

Tomorrow I'll have to look at my parts car and get some ideas.

Ya know, if you're looking for a nice low place for that fuse box, you can mount it down on the front subframe like I use to have mine:

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/DCP02203.JPG

It's still pretty clean.

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/DCP02270.JPG

[123abc]

She's just about done. Gotta fix a few leaks and work out a few things. Took some pics:

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10573.JPG

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10574.JPG

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10575.JPG

[123abc]

I'm still having problems with this thing. I think I just need to clear my head and go back to square one and boost leak test it and seal up that shit. Then go from there because this thing is running way different than it was before I dug into it.


Anyways, here's a pic of the finished product. I need to touch up the vc letters, but that's it.

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10590.JPG

[drifte]

looks pretty good. make sure you have enough grounds off the engine after moving all those wires. Common mistake, can cause all kinds of strange problems.

[123abc]

looks pretty good. make sure you have enough grounds off the engine after moving all those wires. Common mistake, can cause all kinds of strange problems.

Thanks. That could be a possibility. What bugs me is that I'm running 26 degrees advance under wot at 9 psi, barely can keep itself idling, and it's running a bit lean. Under idle, my wideband won't even register, that's how lean it is. Under normal cruising it hovers right around 14.8-15.4:1. Wot it's around 11.3:1. Earlier before I ripped into it, wot was rich around 10.3:1 and cruising was right around 14.8:1.


I really wish there was someone locally who could help me. It's the timing that bugs me, not so much the afr. It would peak at about 21-22 degrees advanced earlier in the spring.

[b00stedtalon2]

Not sure if it matters anymore, but the XTD stage 4 clutch with a sprung 6 puck held up for both me and a friend pretty good. It took a good beating with a 15psi 2 step and 125mph trap speeds for more then a year and counting.

[123abc]

I do believe I have almost all of the issues sorted out. I was finally able to set base ignition timing and it made a big difference. Also found a couple spots I need to seal up such as the j-pipe to turbo and the throttle body needs a rebuild. The TB I can live with for a while, however, the j pipe will wear out my turbo in no time, even on waste-gate pressure. I'll Have to get a gasket for it.

I'll post a pic I took as soon as my friend emails it to me.

[123abc]

Here's a few pics after doing an exterior detail on it. Polished it, waxed it, and cleaned and conditioned the seats as well:

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10592.JPG

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10591.JPG

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10593.JPG

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10594.JPG

[123abc]

Shaved and painted the valve cover and things. The color doesn't exactly match, but it's the closest I could find to the stock color in high temp paint. I'm really happy with the way it turned out though.

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10648.JPG

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10650.JPG

I also modified my current pcv setup too. Before I had both vc ports going to a catch can and a breather on top. I decided I needed to have some vacuum in there so I removed the breather, and attached a hose running to my intake. This way it's recirculated like it should be, and I won't have to worry about my shit gumming up.

Here's a pic if you can make out where everything goes:

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10649.JPG

And just for shits, here's a couple interior pictures:

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10647.JPG

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10646.JPG

[123abc]

So my head is screwed. I was heading to a friends house for a weekend of cars and going to the All Mitsu Cookout in Roger's. I was rolling onto it in 4th to merge with traffic and all of a sudden my car was running on 2 cylinders. I limped it to his house and we ripped into it. Here's the damage:

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/603/medium/SDC10766.JPG

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/603/medium/SDC10764.JPG

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/603/medium/SDC10765.JPG


The head is fucked, the block needs a little sanding, filing, and we already got the gasket.

[K_Mans_TSI]

That's usually a sign of the head lifting between cyls based on extreme detonation, improper torqing, or stretched head bolts.

Another reason I hate ARPs.

[Morpherex]

That's usually a sign of the head lifting between cyls based on extreme detonation, improper torqing, or stretched head bolts.

Another reason I hate ARPs.

You hate ARP's because they're hard to torque down? or what?

[Sean485]

Wow, seems to me even lifting of the head wouldn't cause that kind of damage by itself. Maybe an injector or filter failed/plugged making it go lean and super hot? Also might explain some of your previous a/f variances...

[lazylaser]

Another reason I hate ARPs.

ARPs had nothing to do with that, Arps have been on my car for years, and this never happend to me.

[123abc]

My afr's were right where they should be between 14.5 and 15 at cruising. I have ARP's and when we took the head off all the nuts were tight like they should be.

My guess as to what happened is the gasket blew, but it was me who kept driving it just to get it to my buddy's place that did the damage to the head. When you have the spark plugs trying to ignite the air and fuel, it has to go somewhere.

[K_Mans_TSI]

ARPs had nothing to do with that, Arps have been on my car for years, and this never happend to me.

Yay? That's like saying my 50 trim never blew up it was in my car for years, there's absolutely nothing wrong with PTE.

[K_Mans_TSI]

My afr's were right where they should be between 14.5 and 15 at cruising. I have ARP's and when we took the head off all the nuts were tight like they should be.

My guess as to what happened is the gasket blew, but it was me who kept driving it just to get it to my buddy's place that did the damage to the head. When you have the spark plugs trying to ignite the air and fuel, it has to go somewhere.

Gaskets just don't do that, and just because the nuts are tight doesn't mean the studs didn't stretch and the head warped around it.

[123abc]

Gaskets just don't do that, and just because the nuts are tight doesn't mean the studs didn't stretch and the head warped around it.

Is there a way to tell if the head studs are stretched without taking them out of the head?

[K_Mans_TSI]

No, you have to pull the studs and measure them.

[123abc]

Thanks, I will probably end up checking them.


Another theory too is that the head was defective or previously crack from who knows what and then finally just gave out and took the head gasket with it.


I would think if my studs stretched and the head lifted wouldn't more of the gasket around the outside be blown out? This head has been re-surfaced more than a few times as you can see from the pics making it possible that one of those times the machinist could've fucked it up on accident....right? :dunno:

[lazylaser]

Yay? That's like saying my 50 trim never blew up it was in my car for years, there's absolutely nothing wrong with PTE.

:rofl: touché

[123abc]

I gotta hand it to Twack. He really did most of the work to get this thing together. He sourced a head for me, got it all cleaned up put the head on. Then on Thursday I drove up and he helped me do the timing, and I also buttoned up all the hoses and wires.

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/P4050031.jpg

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/P4050027.jpg

He had also been playing with a 6 bolt long block so thats why there's shit all over:

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10773.JPG

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10771.JPG

On sunday I drove up to get her home. Wired in my o2 sensor, and tried starting it. She ran like ass. Started looking and the brake booster hose was un-hooked. Hooked that back up and she idled perfect at 750. Logger showing 9 degrees advance. So I hooked up my vc breather lines and took it for a test drive, lifter's just a clickity clackin.

Of course, right before we leave I try turning my lights on and in typical dsm fashion, my headlights won't turn on. My fuse box is in the dumbest spot ever, so I drove real close behind my Stratus that my g/f was driving. The lifters finally stopped after about 7 miles on the highway. I didn't have a single problem the whole way home though, I am very relieved to say.

Now I need to change my oil....

[123abc]

Little update after a few weeks. I've been doing a few little things here and there to it but the car just doesn't run right. It hesitates when I first push on the gas, runs leaner than stock should. I got a 92 throttle body coming today and shaft seals and a biss screw and seal on their way from Mach V.

I've always had idling issues with this 90 tb, so I think it would help a lot if I upgraded and then went through and cleaned it.

[dsmvr4]

Are you using anything for fuel? Injectors or Fuel pump any tuning device on the car?

[123abc]

Are you using anything for fuel? Injectors or Fuel pump any tuning device on the car?

Evo 9 560cc injectors, evo 9 pump, and a GM Maf-T. Yes I could try and tune the problem out, but I shouldn't have to.

[123abc]

Got the problem solved. Finally figured out that I had to unhook the datalogger cables in the diagnostics port to get the changes to save. Tested it out in the rain and was having fun with the steering wheel cocked at 90 in 3rd.



FWD is so stupid yet so fun.....

[Rip Tahoe]

Did you u ever check/ buy new ARP's? Curious to know what happened b4?

[123abc]

Did you u ever check/ buy new ARP's? Curious to know what happened b4?

I didn't check them. I'm not worried.

[123abc]

Took a few random pics at school yesterday:

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/607/medium/SDC10926_Panorama.jpg

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/607/medium/SDC10923_Panorama.jpg

This is my friends Talon that I've been helping. Early 92 6/4 bolt 5 speed. Did some engine bay cleaning, battery relocation, abs delete, a/c delete and cruise delete. Just got the trans back in after doing a clutch job and figured out today that a leaky rotting intake manifold gasket is to blame for no idle. Gotta do a timing belt job soon too as his belt is REALLY loose.

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/607/medium/SDC10917.JPG

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/607/medium/SDC10918.JPG

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/607/medium/SDC10919.JPG

http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/607/medium/SDC10920.JPG

[123abc]

Here's a sweet plug I found for all you guys running short route kits:


http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/517/medium/SDC10934.JPG

[i need a dsm]

DAmn man, you are awesome! ALOT of details have been put into this car and it sho aLOT

COngrats on getting her up and running.

Now time to show someone whats she capable of :)

I may of missed it, but what kind of core is that?

[123abc]

Thanks. The fmic is an ETS kit I believe.

[MindBlowin03]

Looking good. Where did you get the plug?

[123abc]

Looking good. Where did you get the plug?

I went over to autobody class at school and asked if they knew where I could find one and they pointed me to an early 90's Olds Cutlass 2dr. They were on the inside right under the rear side windows.


It is a very tight fit. I had to use my lighter to soften it up a bit before it would snap in place.

[123abc]

I've been daily driving the DSM for the last few weeks and It's been running great. However, now that I've finished doing my G/f's water pump and timing chain replacement, I can put it away until I pick up the next round of upgrades. It's great but needs some suspension and brake work. Here's a list for this winter:

-Making a full exhaust for sure. Way too damn loud and it exits under the car causing all kinds of vibrations.

-The shocks need to be changed at all 4 corners. I'm probably going to keep the Intrax lowering springs since I like the ride and stance, just not a fan of the floating and bouncing.

-Also going to be upgrading the turbo. I want to go with something around what Twack has for a 50 Trim. I thought about the HTA68 but it's really expensive and I can get similar performance from a 50 trim without that stupid fucking J-pipe.

-Even on my stock turbo I'm finding that the stock single piston brakes don't do much at 135 mph. I made a deal with a friend at school and I'll be getting a set of dual pistons off a 2g with calipers rotors and all the hardware I need. I'll turn the rotors at school and rebuild the calipers.

-Going to try and pick up a full poly bushing kit for the whole suspension as well. Get the e-brake cables I need and get my e-brake working.


That's the plan for January. Of course this is all subject to change. I'll know 100% when I get to that bridge.