Sparks fly.. Alternator shorted..? [Archive] - DSM Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum:

: Sparks fly.. Alternator shorted..?

08-15-2001, 08:37 PM
shit, I dropped my heatshield and it hit the alternator and saw sparks flew until no more sparks.

Did I kill the alternator?

My door locks doesn't work and no interior light, checked the 2 red fuse in the yellow block they are OK though.

The car starts but I didn't drive it, because it maybe running on the battery.

What do I need now and what else might be damaged from this?

08-15-2001, 09:16 PM
did you check all the fuses, alternator fuse, etc?
chances are you just blew a fuse somewhere. Likely you did no damage to the alt if you shorted while it was off...

Check the fusible link block near your battery (both of them) to make sure all fuses/links are ok, and check voltage at the battery while started (should be >13V if alternator is working)...

08-15-2001, 10:57 PM
One of the biggie fuse in the box blew, the 100amp one.

I got a replacement from kragen, gonna put it in tomorrow,
hopefully my door locks and lights will work after that.

08-15-2001, 11:10 PM
I did the same thing about two months ago when changing my turbo. Replaced the fuse and everything worked as normal.

08-21-2003, 09:15 PM
Ok, I just did the same thing....but I was doing a DP install and being a dumb@$$ I didnt unhook the negative battery terminal off the battery. Anywho...the DP touched the + terminal of the alternator.....saw sparks, kinda tickled....and then nothing. Then I disconnected the negative terminal and finished the job. I blew the 100A fuse when to autozone, bought a new one, put it in, hooked up the negative terminal.......and SPARKAGE!!!! PISSED, could I have fried the voltage regulator in the alternator?? I know that my power doors and windows dont work. And if you turn on the headlight or push the horn button...the horn keeps going off until you disconnect the negative terminal and all is fine, until you push the horn or turn on the lights again. Could anyone help me out??
Thanks in advance!

08-23-2003, 07:38 PM
I'd replace the alternator with a rebuilt one from autozone.

I also fudged up a downpipe installation by being lazy and not disconnecting the - battery terminal and my wrench caught the alternator just right. Sparks and everything else.

I was pushing 3 amps out of my alternator after this incident, so I just got a rebuilt one for like $130 at autozone.

08-23-2003, 11:49 PM
i dropped a wrench on my alt and it also tapped the manifold at the same time, producing a couple of sparks.
the alt fuse was blown and i replaced that.
later on i still had problems and found out that my alt was totally dead. what you can do to make sure is take off the alt and take it to autozone to be tested for free.

08-24-2003, 01:29 AM
Moved to Electronics Tech.

08-24-2003, 07:29 PM
The insulator under the output wire on the alt may have melted,shorted. There are also recifier diodes inside but they would open. Its possible a brush burned to the stator.
Test it at AutoZone, AdvanceAuto.
You could use a car battery for a welder in a pinch. Use a coat hanger for a rod.

08-24-2003, 08:37 PM
Ya, my alternator was dead....I fried the voltage regulator in there and it kept blowing the fuse at o'reillys. So, I got a new one from them and everything works good again. All I gotta say is Disconnect Your Negative Cable to Your Battery!!!! It cost me $150 to learn that lesson.

08-25-2003, 11:27 AM
whatever you do dont get a rebuilt alternator from autozone. they suck! i have gone through 3 remanufactured autozone alternators, believe me you dont want to buy from them

08-25-2003, 08:18 PM
To check an alternator in the car, measure battery voltage during fast idle. ~14V no load, >13 full load, assuming charged battery.