Project Clean 420a [Archive] - DSM Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum: DSMtalk.com

: Project Clean 420a


FormulaDz92
10-13-2010, 08:56 PM
Finally, 50 posts and I can start a build thread of my own :)

First off don't expect anything huge on this thread. No engine tear-downs, after-market turbo kits, huge rust-outs etc. This is a thread about my goal to turn my 97 RS (bone stock) from the bronx into some thing clean and enjoyable to look at and hopefully drive. Nothing more and nothing less.

I bought the car early this past spring (2010) from the Bronx in NYC. The car seemed in decent condition with little rust, 77,000 miles, and a $2,500 craigslist price. In case your wondering I bought a 420a because I couldn't afford the insurance on a turbo model and because I want something to look forward to after collage. (2G GSX fingers crossed).

I'm a high-school senior with NO experience with cars to speak of. I didn't know how to change oil or what a spark plug is or... well you get the idea. Since this point I have learned tons of useful stuff mainly from this site and youtube.

Here's a list of what I've done so far(as best as I can remember)
1. refurb. headlights
2. repaint wipers
3. Color-code mirrors(white)
4. Factory low-rise wing removal
5. quarter window tints
6. 6 CD changer removal(it was crap)
7. New non-rattling/leaking sunroof
8. 17x7 Kosei K1 TS Rims in light grey
9. Megan Racing Exhaust+ New CAT
10. New oil+filter
11. New Spark plugs
12. New factory floor matts
13. New Flex Pipe
14. Antenna delete
15. Patch holes left by spoiler + prime

Thats all I can remember right now. I'll probably have to update multiple times. Also, understand that I love my car to death I'm doing all these mods purely for the hell of it and to gain some basic experience with tuning/maintenance. Below is a list of what I plan to do which is subject to change.

1. Paint + clear-coat holes in trunk
2. install new radio with AUX
3. patch all chips in paint
4. general winter-proofing
5. foam for interior side mirror inserts
6. order factory spec. 2Gb sideskirts
7. Order factory spec 2Gb front bumper
8. fix skuffs in clear-coat
9. paint scratch on rear bumper
10. remove all paneling+ check for rust
11. order+ install Sparco pedals
12. order+ paint ext. door handles(white)
13. Injen CAI
14. DC Sports Headers
15. ?DC Sports Strut tower brace?
16. Sand + paint old wheels black for winter
17. ?Black/CF Hood?
18. finish all tints
19. New wiper blades
20. Eibach ProKit Springs
21. Tokiko HP Shocks
22. ?Racing Seats?
23. New Speakers(no subs, amps, etc.)
This is supposed as much DIY as possible so bear with me. It takes a lot longer with a lot more trial and error if you do it yourself(esp. with no experience). Obviously I'll get the real important stuff done by professionalls since this is my DD and all.

Pics tomorrow

FormulaDz92
11-17-2010, 06:16 PM
Haha well that "pics tomorrow" turned out to be a total lie. I'm pretty sure I'm the only one looking at this anyway though. Heres a before and fairly recent pic.

Also the radio (with AUX) is 90% installed and the 2 primed spots on either side of the trunk have been painted(but not we sanded and polished yet). Also stock RS rims(from 1st pic) have been painted gloss black for winter. Pics of that soon.

HOT97ECLIPSEGSX
11-17-2010, 06:27 PM
Maintenance and keeping her clean is what any real car enthusiast should be focused on. Whether turbo/awd or not, your car is clean. Keep it up as it will pay off in the end.

FormulaDz92
11-17-2010, 06:46 PM
Yeah. Its the maintenance thats keeping me from getting all his other stuff done haha. Also I think I'm going to "niteshade" the tailights soon. And thanks for the encouragement.

NeMiZiS
11-18-2010, 10:26 AM
Looks good!

15psi88
11-18-2010, 10:44 AM
Look nice, plus you can't go wrong with Kosei's. I wouldn't night shade the tails. Unless of course, you like the look of failure. It's grainy and has a purple tint to it. Use a 2k clear with some black added. Much more even coverage since you can adjust the fan pattern with the gun, rather than spraying with a laser beam from a rattle can.

FunWheelDrive
11-18-2010, 11:42 AM
Looks good so far. Im not a fan of the white mirrors or clear front reflectors. If I was you I wouldnt even bother with a header, racing seats or a cf hood, but thats just my opinion.

NeMiZiS
11-18-2010, 01:28 PM
Whats wrong with white mirrors?
I say get the header and racing seats!
It will sound good and be more comfortable!
Don't expect a lot of HP from it though! :D
As long as the white reflectors have orange bulbs, they are fine with me!

FunWheelDrive
11-18-2010, 01:48 PM
Whats wrong with white mirrors?
I say get the header and racing seats!
It will sound good and be more comfortable!
Don't expect a lot of HP from it though! :D
As long as the white reflectors have orange bulbs, they are fine with me!

Nothing is wrong with the mirrors, I just think its too much white on the car and doesnt allow for a lot of contrast.

Headers seem like a waste of money to me and are only there for sound, and who really needs racing seats in a 420a? Seems borderline rice to me. Like I said though, its just my opinion.

2LiterRiceEater
11-18-2010, 01:49 PM
Clean car! I wouldn't spend the money on a CF hood, if anything you want the weight over the front wheels to keep the little power you have planted to the ground a little better. You are on the right track with the car, it looks good, keep it up, take your time with it, and enjoy it :)

FormulaDz92
11-18-2010, 02:07 PM
Looks good so far. Im not a fan of the white mirrors or clear front reflectors. If I was you I wouldnt even bother with a header, racing seats or a cf hood, but thats just my opinion.

Yeah, I'd get the header for the sound more than anything. When I hit around 4000 rpm it starts to sound a little weak and from what I hear headers would help that. Also a little more experience wouldn't hurt. As far as racing seats I'll look for some nice used ones and if I can't find any good bargains I'll just stick with stock which are fine(I'd also obviously move the nice seats over to my next 2G DSM probably after collage). As far as carbon fiber hoods same thing; If i see a cheap one in good shape ill get it otherwise I'll stick with mine. I'm also entertaining the idea of just getting a black hood.

2 Questions:
1. Is i possible to convert 2 power side mirrors to manual(if you have all the correct parts)?
2. I'm looking into lowering my car no less that 1.75 inches and was looking at the Tokiko HP Spring-Shock set and wondering if the shocks could handle some springs that would offer a 2 inch drop (rather than 1.3)?

Also heres a pic of my old wheels painted black for winter(w/ out center cap + lug nuts)

NeMiZiS
11-18-2010, 04:06 PM
1. Is i possible to convert 2 power side mirrors to manual(if you have all the correct parts)?

All you need is some manual mirrors, just unplug the power mirrors and swap them out.

DSM Rook
11-18-2010, 04:47 PM
I say no on the, tinted tails, seats, hood. Car looks good in the 2nd pic. I'd leave it like that. Do your header and suspension if you please. Enjoy the car and the money you save. Trust me. I wish I had a 1/4 of the money back that I dumped into my car. If you put money into this car you will get your gsx. BUT, if you save your money and leave this car alone you'll have money to look for an evo.

NeMiZiS
11-18-2010, 04:57 PM
EVO's are ugly. ROFL
People on this site are so mean to 420A owners it is ridiculous!
YOU don't have to have a turbo to have a nice car.
I completely stopped getting on this forum, before I bought my tsi.
Give the guy a break!
YOU don't have to have a race car, to have nice seats and a nice sounding exhaust, or a good handling ride.
Just do what you think you would like done and don't expect a whole lot from each modification.
Then that way you have more mechanical experience, for when you do finally get a 4g63.(you'll need it)


A member of dsmtuners has a N/A 420A that runs 13.231 @ 106.090
That is faster than a lot of 4g63 guys rolling around hating on 420A's.
Well maybe not a lot, but few...

FunWheelDrive
11-18-2010, 05:17 PM
EVO's are ugly. ROFL
People on this site are so mean to 420A owners it is ridiculous!
YOU don't have to have a turbo to have a nice car.
I completely stopped getting on this forum, before I bought my tsi.
Give the guy a break!
YOU don't have to have a race car, to have nice seats and a nice sounding exhaust, or a good handling ride.
Just do what you think you would like done and don't expect a whole lot from each modification.
Then that way you have more mechanical experience, for when you do finally get a 4g63.(you'll need it)


If you are familiar with my posts you will know that I stand up for 420a owners a lot on this forum. That being said, I see know point in throwing money away on modifications you know will make know real improvements to your cars performance, especially when you say that the reason you dont want a turbo dsm is because you dont have enough money. I doubt that a years worth of insurance will be equivalent to the cost of a cat-back, intake, header, etc.

I have never heard an exhaust on a n/a dsm that sounded decent.

Exhaust + carbon fiber hood + racing seats in a car that will be lucky to make as much hp as a base model camry = rice in my book.

DSM Rook
11-18-2010, 05:25 PM
EVO's are ugly. ROFL
People on this site are so mean to 420A owners it is ridiculous!
YOU don't have to have a turbo to have a nice car.
I completely stopped getting on this forum, before I bought my tsi.
Give the guy a break!
YOU don't have to have a race car, to have nice seats and a nice sounding exhaust, or a good handling ride.
Just do what you think you would like done and don't expect a whole lot from each modification.
Then that way you have more mechanical experience, for when you do finally get a 4g63.(you'll need it)


A member of dsmtuners has a N/A 420A that runs 13.231 @ 106.090
That is faster than a lot of 4g63 guys rolling around hating on 420A's.
Well maybe not a lot, but few...

I would say an evo is a rather attractive car. Evo's will overtake dsm's soon. Its natural progression. These cars are becoming harder to find with out being molested. Factory parts are no longer being made. Besides, evo's are way more practical. I personally would like to pick one up and keep it stock.

I don't think anyone is really picking on this guy. He's going to get comments and feedback both good and bad. Everyone can do as they please. I mearly suggested he keep the car simple and save his money.

I would do suspension work because pending milage and NY roads the car could use it. I wouldn't do race seats unless the op is actually going to get a quality seats. Those won't come cheap, probably close to half the cost of his car.

And the NA member you're talking about, maybe guessing he's from CT? If so that car couldn't be compaired to something remotely stock.

NeMiZiS
11-18-2010, 05:32 PM
Rice to me is a car that just looks stupid.
I think his car will still be very nice looking, with exhaust and seats.
Non painted carbon fiber hood is rice, but others would disagree.

Well I'm not comparing a 13 second 420A to a stock 420A.
I'm just saying there is hope! :D

Now I learned that it is relatively hard to make a 420A fast, but I don't regret trying to make mine fast at all.
Or look better.

And yea EVO's are cool looking, for a sedan!
Anything with 4 doors is ugly to me.

15psi88
11-18-2010, 07:31 PM
I let last statement sink in for a while before typing this reply.
I've decided that you've probably got bad taste and what you say doesn't matter anymore.
I don't think a single reply was directed at hurting the guys feelings, you think there are mean people in this thread? Have you been on dsmtalk prior to tonight?

FormulaDz92
11-18-2010, 10:04 PM
All you need is some manual mirrors, just unplug the power mirrors and swap them out.

Ummm...ok so the ones I have on now are the regular RS manual mirrors painted white with Krylon(came out surprisingly nice) but someone was selling some W12 Power mirrors and I picked those up. Could I have a list of all the necessary steps for swapping them?

Oh and to be clear I have manual mirrors IN NOW. And I want to swap the internals from mine into a factory painted W12 casing. Is this possible/easy to do?

NeMiZiS
11-19-2010, 09:51 AM
I'm not familiar with W12 mirrors.
If you are trying to remove your old mirrors, just take off the plastic cover on the inside of the door.
Then you will have 3 bolts (10mm if I remember right) remove them and the whole assembly will come out.
As far as swapping the mirror internals, I"m not sure.
It will help if you post some pictures.

FormulaDz92
11-19-2010, 06:09 PM
Ok I'll do some work tomorrow and take some pics hopefully tomorrow.

Regarding the ongoing discussion of buying an evo I personally think 2gs look better but evos 7-9 are pretty nice(the X is kinda fat but still nice, and expensive) If I get a new car in 6 years or so I'll probably get the Ford Focus ST. just my 2 cents

jake1337
12-06-2010, 01:48 PM
I really like to see any car clean, yours is clean! Got any updates yet?

FormulaDz92
12-09-2010, 01:34 PM
Well i'll be putting on the painted stock rims next tuesday. still no luck finding a W12 hatch (hi-rise or wingless) . Haven't put the W12 White mirrors on yet either. Radio is in though. Heres a decent pic of it.

I may take it down later in favor of a nite shot

FormulaDz92
12-13-2010, 04:56 PM
Radio at night

FormulaDz92
12-14-2010, 02:27 PM
and finally the painted stock RS wheels. They look a little bad because when i painted them i left the balancing weights on(stupid) and now that they've been taken off there are some small unpainted sections. I also mad the mistake of gluing the center caps in which had to be removed for balancing so the nice black center caps with the red mitsu logo are all cracked :( All in all though the wheels still look better than they did. So heres a cell pic of it as it sits. (I still really really need some 1.5-2 inch lowering spings. Probably sportlines with tokiko HP shocks...

FormulaDz92
12-26-2010, 08:20 PM
I just would like you guys to know I just drove through one of the biggest blizzards NJ has had in a decade and both my little RS and I survived even after all the Hummers and Suberbans turned in. It drove through the easily 16 inches of snow(more with drifts) like a champ. Horray for Mitsubishi. Still want an Evo or a GSX by Jr. year of collage though.

Heres a pic of the car about 3 hrs into the storm

FormulaDz92
12-27-2010, 09:41 AM
I had to leave the car in a nearby parking lot covered with only a tarp because the snow was drifting too much for me to get in the driveway :( When I turned the car on this morning it started up great but after about 5 min an indescribable bump(but not that loud) happened. As I drove the car back to the garage it went away though. I'm never doing this to any of my cars ever again. Does anybody know what that might have been?

On a semi related note I was thinking about what should be my next car; a GSX or an Evo 8 or 9. (not a big fan of the Evo X's looks). I Really like the 2G body style but as they are at least 4 years older than the oldest Evo I could buy I'm not sure I would be able to keep up with the maintenance (as it will likely become a DD). The downside of the Evo would be that they can cost at least $13,000 (if I'm lucky) Any opinions?

'97ralliartGS-T
12-27-2010, 11:25 PM
Evo's insurance rate will more than likely be twice if not, close to that of a turbo model DSM.

DSM4LIFE-AWD
12-28-2010, 07:11 AM
Doing what ever again ? Drifting in the snow ? An ESi is just boring as any other fwd cars in the snow ...

FormulaDz92
12-28-2010, 09:27 PM
Doing what ever again ? Drifting in the snow ? An ESi is just boring as any other fwd cars in the snow ...

Sorry should have been more clear. I am never driving my car through an colossal snow storm then leaving out in a freezing cold parking lot overnight. I was not "snow drifting" I said that the snow WAS drifting and these giant snow drifts prevented me from getting my car into the garage. I do agree with the "boring in the snow" bit. When I do drifting in the snow I use my moms 2010 impreza (blasphemy I know but what can you do) and its a blast.

Also thanks for the info about the insurance for an Evo being almost twice as much as that of a DSM. Why is that? I like them both but if I could find a DSM with low enough miles with good maintenance etc. I'm sure I would end up buying it (AWD of course)

Side note: oil change+new wiper blades+ wash and maybe wax tomorrow

2ndgen-eltalon
12-29-2010, 09:23 AM
Side note: oil change+new wiper blades+ wash and maybe wax tomorrow


THIS^ Perfect.... Keep it simple, prob. wouldn't hurt to rotate your tires..

BTW that picture you took in the snow, it does not appear that you have a factory exhaust...... The muffler at least.

FormulaDz92
12-30-2010, 10:25 AM
I have a 3" Megan Racing Cat-back exhaust which sounds great by the way. Very bass and not "fart cannon"y at all. I'm not going to do the tire rotation because I just got the stock rims+tires put back on about a month ago.

FormulaDz92
01-23-2011, 07:23 AM
Alright its been a while and I've finally got some questions to ask.

1. First and most important is about my radiator temp gauge. As most of you probably know it has been freezing in NJ this winter and I've noticed that when I warm up the car the radiator temp gauge goes to about half way(the car is in a garage but is not heated). Once I start driving however the gauge drops down to zero in about 1-3 min. I just filled up the radiator fluid so is this normal when driving in 14 degree weather?

2. I had my 1 DIN Pioneer radio/cd player installed at SAMM sound because me and an ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING MAJOR could not figure out why it wouldn't turn on. Long story short I took apart the center console the other day to find that a wire from my cigarette lighter(looked like a black grounding wire) had been wired into the CD player. This doesn't bother me as much as the fact that now the light from the cigarette lighter is stuck behind my radio(becuase of the limited cord length. Now i have a cigarette lighter that doesn't work and a stupid light behind my radio that goes on every time I turn on the headlights. Any ideas?

3. Last problem isn't really a big deal but my valve cover has a small leak in it. Is there any permanant(and preferably cheap) solution to this?

2ndgen-eltalon
01-23-2011, 07:46 AM
Long Time no see, Just Kidding. Now with your problems, The Overcooling if you will, seems to be a stuck open thermostat. A good way to check to see if it is, While the car is running at normal operating temp, Put your hand on the Upper Radiator hose, Squeeze it while someone else gives a little throttle, If you cannot feel coolant circulating through then chances are you have a clog or Busted Thermostat.

Now for the Cigarette lighter, Whomever did your radio would not be the first one to wire it like that, Seen a few, it cause's problems. First the Radio Probably stopped turning on due a Blown Fuse, Lighter or the actual one on the back of the Cd Player. Inspect things and get a wiring harness so you can reinstall it the right way. There is a harness you plug into your stock radio harness, then you wire the new harness to the CD player harness. Easy as Pie.;)

The light you see behind your cigarette lighter isn't supposed to be there, It actually has a small little box on the cigarette lighter housing, It plugs in there, and twists to lock, In order to see all of this, You will need to pull your CD player anyway. It is fairly easy once you have the deck out, You can unscrew the bottom part securing the Lighter & Housing to the Center Console. Then Remove the Wiring Clips, Then you should be able to pull it out. :D

Good Luck, Let me know if you need pictures.


EDIT: Forgot about the Valve Cover, Go ahead and try to tighten up the Bolts, You know max them out, Not to the point of no return, more so like a break in period type thing.
Do it in a cross pattern, One corner To the Next, and so on and so on. Its not like there gonna be loose when you try this, Just a band aid to try to help it snug up a little more. A cheap solution if it doesn't fix the leak is to Replace your Valve Cover Gasket, Its not hard at all, and its cheap, Some EXPERIENCE I know you could use.

FormulaDz92
01-23-2011, 08:25 AM
Thanks for getting back to me so quickley. I'll give all of these things a shot as soon as my friend can give me a hand. She needs the experience too she just bought a CRX Si sooo this should be fun.

Progress so far this winter has been repeated washes(no waxes), keeping on the tire pressure in this ever-decreasing temperature, cleaning + drying out interior, oil, etc.

Last thing; I woke up today and there was a this layer of ice on the INSIDE of the windsheild. All seals are good so I did a little reading and found out its probably too much moisture in the car and when it gets cold it all freezes up. Is there anything I could buy to get some of the moisture out? Best Ideas i've got to far is to leave some cups of rice and a bag of bakeing soda in there overnight but I'm not sure how much good that will do...

2ndgen-eltalon
01-23-2011, 11:41 AM
I highly Doubt all your seals are good.:rolleyes: Haha That sucks though. Sunroof maybe? Though your tips you have recived are not bad, Rice is to absorb most of the moisture in the Air/Car. But I know Rain X Fog Stopper also works Great for this, I used it last winter after the same problem, it kept on happening, So Put some of this on, Cleaned it up. Its supposed to make it so you don't have to defog/defrost your windows. Check it out good stuff.

Never had the Problem again. Even In the Last month my car has been in the garage with windows open.

Although I would do that, I would also get a good wax on her. When I Wax my car, I wash/wax, All crevice's around inside the hood, doors, hatch, gas door, wheel wells, everywhere they put factory paint on. It cleans it up like new, and keeps rust, dirt, water out of hatch gutters, door gutters, all that. I love it, and it keeps the seals nice and fresh.

Alot of info for a small problem, but I am very detail oriented.:o


Edit:

http://www.rainx.com/Products/Windshield_Treatment/2_In_1.aspx

http://www.rainx.com/Products/Windshield_Treatment/Anti-Fog.aspx

Both of those.

FormulaDz92
01-23-2011, 12:56 PM
Alright if it is a seal issue it must be the sunroof which I had replaced. The current one was from a diamante which had the same part number but it is completely flat, not curved. This isn't that big of a deal but I have been looking for a better one. This could be the seal problem. Maybe I'll try putting on the old sunroof and see if the icing goes away.

FormulaDz92
01-26-2011, 06:59 PM
It turned out to be a busted thermostat. Sunroof issue still isn't resolved. Valve cover is still leaking(but only a little bit). Icing on the inside of the window has temporarily ceased.

DSM Bud
01-26-2011, 08:44 PM
Do the work man and spend the money. I know how you feel, I had a black GS and I spend almost 1500. Now that i think about it, for what?? I couldent even keep up with a frankinstine honda (It was PATHETIC), But you know what man the car looks nice and if it works for you then more power to ya. Just think about the money that your spending on that and if you woulda spent it on a 4G63. The 420A isnt that good IMO it blew up on me and it only had 98K and it doesnt really make good power for the amount of money put in. Oh and as for the headers I had DC Headers and they really didnt make it sound any louder or more aggressive. Definetly let my revs go alil faster but not that big of a difference. Good Luck with the car.

FormulaDz92
01-27-2011, 02:27 PM
Thanks...I think. I realize now that buying a 420a may have been a bad decision. I'm doing my best to keep it in good shape and put as little unnecessary money into it as possible. However this is my first car and I have had no reason to doubt it so far.

On that note I have been thinking of what I mite buy as a good, fun, and reliable after-collage car. Heres what I have so far:

Nissan 350z (great as long as its not in snow)

Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 8 or 9 GSR (great car in every way except price and MPG)

Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX 2G (my first choice, but hard to find ones that aren't heavily modifies + its old so it will require that pesky old-car maintenance)

Chevrolet Cobalt SS Turbocharged (I can;t believe I'm saying this but between its 260 hp engine, good looks... well at least I think they're good, and its horrible resale value its a bargain)

Let me know which car you would choose and what climate you are in ex. urban/rural cold/hot etc.
*Also don't say to post a poll because my profile won't let me do that.

FormulaDz92
01-31-2011, 01:38 PM
Alright so theres good news and bad news
Good: Heat has started working stronger than ever

Bad: 1. There's a strange smell when i accelerate fast and when i use the trans to slow down 2. When I start up the car there is a ticking noise that goes away after about 5 min of driving. It usually happens after the car has been sitting a while. When I rev the engine it speeds up then slows down. Belt Problem?

2ndgen-eltalon
01-31-2011, 01:43 PM
Honestly man, My car used to do this last winter, Throw Out Bearing went out early spring. Dropped Tranny and replaced Clutch & Throw Out Bearing.

My TOB was pretty trashed. But never again had the problem. The ticking went away too.

The Smell, what is it like. Is it a Burnt smell, sweet smell, give me a clue.

Is your clutch slipping at all?

Also, I personally don't recommend downshifting to slow down, unless its an emergency. But thats just me. Just ride it out in neutral.

FormulaDz92
01-31-2011, 03:03 PM
I really don't have the time to drop the trans. etc. myself so I'd have to have my mechanic do it(so much for getting experience). I have noticed this noise started ever since i left the car out in the first blizzard we had(18 inches of snow and 10 degree temperatures) because the driveway wasn't plowed. I thought it mite be ice on a belt intitially but i guess not.

As for the smell its not the sweet smell the CAT gave off when i first put it in. Its not very strong(as in its not everywhere, the passengers rarely notice it) it smells a bit like burning plastic... and it comes through the vents on and off usually right after accelerating

The clutch isn't slipping at all. I googled symptoms of a bad clutch and my car has none of the symptoms. I was thinking perhaps the squeaking could be the alternator belt... because the radio(still powered by the cigarette lighter) might be over working it.

I'll take your recommendation for the down-sifting. I'm also going to let my car idle a lot less after reading up on the effects it can have on fuel effeciency and the motor.

Thanks for all the help.

2ndgen-eltalon
02-01-2011, 05:57 AM
You can get away with waiting until its nice out for the clutch. I don't see a reason why it shouldn't last another 2-3 months. As long as your not accelerating hard, launching it, you know, just be nice, it is winter.

The smell is your clutch. It will get worse over time, but not terrible.


Has the car ever had a clutch job done? Mileage?

FormulaDz92
02-01-2011, 07:43 PM
Shit. This sucks. Do you think its worth it to get a new one? Or just get something new? I really only have about $3,000 in the bank. I have been kinda hard on the clutch...2 friends have learned stick on this car. I sorely regret that. How much do clutches cost?

As far as I know this is the original clutch with 81,000 mi on it. Still not slipping at all.

Any chance it could be something else?

2LiterRiceEater
02-02-2011, 01:19 AM
A clutch will cost you about $200-300, and about a weekend of your time. And there's the mistake, don't let anybody but yourself drive it :P

FormulaDz92
02-02-2011, 08:59 AM
Yeah live and learn i guess. How long would it take a person who has VERY little experience working on cars to do? I think I'll have to leave a whole week to do this. Probably over spring break. Would you reccomend any good clutch kits? (comfort + smoothness would be better)

benspilk09
02-02-2011, 10:05 AM
A sachs clutch kit off rockauto is just under 200 dollars and are a reputable brand, and if you have a chilton/haynes manual it would take probably 2-3 days max if you have no idea what youre doing. I have done a couple clutch jobs before where I have gotten by with just a friction disc instead of buying the whole pressure plate and everything. If there are no broken springs and the pressure plate is flat (I have a machinist's straightedge but you might have to take it somewhere) then you could probably just get by with just a friction disc and throw out bearing. I know a lot of people don't recommend it but both the vehicles worked out fine, they don't vibrate and the clutches engage smoothly, so if you're really on a tight budget you could save 100 dollars and do it that way.

FormulaDz92
02-02-2011, 10:10 AM
I wouldn't mind losing $100 if the whole process goes smoother and quicker. I have a both volumes of the 1998 Eagle Talon Service Manual. Will that do?

benspilk09
02-02-2011, 10:17 AM
Like the factory service manuals that the dealers had? Those are most likely better than the haynes/chilton manuals.

2LiterRiceEater
02-02-2011, 11:33 AM
If you have no experience, but want to learn, go for it. Get a buddy or two to help you drop the tranny. It weighs a little bit, and it's awkward as hell. If it hasn't been apart in a while. expect to swear and lose your mind, especially getting out the axles. Once you're in there, it's not that difficult. I would buy an OE replacement clutch, you won't be throwing too much power at it, and as long as you don't drive it like shit you won't have any problems with it. Remember to torque everything to spec too.

What you will essentially want for a clutch job, is:

New clutch disc
New pressure plate
New throw out bearing
And get your flywheel surface machined

The kit should come with the alignment tool too, and for specialty tools, on my 1G FWD I didn't need much other than your basic socket set, channel locks, a few hammers a few prybars, a few screwdrivers, and 2 axle stands for the front. Some mucic, food in the belly, and a positive attitude.

:)

FormulaDz92
02-02-2011, 01:14 PM
hmmm. so you think I'm going to have to drop the whole tranny out? I found this youtube(i realize that my car is not an accord coupe) and all he had to do was unbolt it. can i assume this is not the case with dsms?

heres the vid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ppg_70IM_qQ

FormulaDz92
02-02-2011, 01:15 PM
Like the factory service manuals that the dealers had? Those are most likely better than the haynes/chilton manuals.

yeah. I found it on eBay. its the original

2LiterRiceEater
02-02-2011, 08:36 PM
The transmission has to come completely off. Nice try though :P

FormulaDz92
02-02-2011, 09:01 PM
Aw. Haha k. That'll take more time. Goodbye spring break. In a weird way I'm kinda glad i get to do this. Its good experience wich is why I bought the car

2LiterRiceEater
02-02-2011, 09:16 PM
Honestly though, the point where he got in the video, he would've had to disconnect a few cables and it would've been completely out. Which to me makes more sense to do, instead of fiddlefucking with the tranny in the way. Plus, in order to take the flywheel off, he would've needed the tranny off anyways. Basically what I'm trying to say is, by the time you get to where he did, all the hard work is done. It's just a matter of lowering the trasmission to the ground, and sliding it out of the way. When it's out, you can clean it up a little, maybe spray a fresh coat of silver paint over it to have it looking better if you would like :)

DSM Bud
02-03-2011, 11:07 AM
On the 420A motors its wierd, my 420a didnt have a clutch, clutch plate, and a flywheel. It came as one peice wich I do belive your going to have.

2ndgen-eltalon
02-03-2011, 11:23 AM
On the 420A motors its wierd, my 420a didnt have a clutch, clutch plate, and a flywheel. It came as one peice wich I do belive your going to have.

DSM Bud, you are correct. All one unit except for the Flywheel. Just your standard flywheel, clutch assembly, and TOB, and your set.

It took me half a week due to parts and new tools, but I had the trans out in 2 hours.

You can handle it, its not so bad, once you get the axle's out, like 2literriceeater said, its pretty much get your shifter cables out of the way, unbolt your 4 bolts holding trans to the block, and lower her down.

Clean it up really nice, trust me you will regret not doing it while its out.

Good Luck, let me know if you need more help or a how to guide.

FormulaDz92
02-03-2011, 06:42 PM
What should I use to slide the trans out from under the car? How many jackstands? Where should I place the jackstands? Complete list of tools? and any suggestions.

Thanks by the way, without you guys there is no chance I would ever consider attempting this. I really would like to get this done before the car becomes completely un-driveable but I'll wait until it gets warmer.

I think I might have detected the first minor clutch-slip today :(

92LaserTurbo2wd
02-03-2011, 06:57 PM
He didn't put the slave back on in the video.

FormulaDz92
02-03-2011, 07:23 PM
Ugh forgot to mention the radio. I had the correct wiring harness/adapter thingy installed(I know big words) and It still did not turn on. As it sits now it looks as if two wired have been borrowed from the cig. lighter; the power wire and the grounding wire(or at least I assume its the grounding wire since the regular radio grounding wire is hanging loose. Any ideas now? I'm hopefully taking it back to SAMM sound some time in the next week to complain but chances are they'll just blow me off even though its still under the 6 month warranty.

and oh hey 92LaserTurbo2wd I see you are from BC. My uncle and cousins live in Nelson. Ironically he is the closest(and only) mechanic in my family.

FormulaDz92
02-06-2011, 10:11 PM
Yay. I'm 90% sure I don't have a clutch problem. I researched it and it said that if you shift from 1st to 4th and you feel the car pull you forward while the RPMs dip real low then you probably don't have a clutch problem and it worked. No slipping, I must have just been imagining things before.

Also ticking hasn't happened in a little bit. It seem s to happen more when its really cold out. I don't know what it could be but I do know that it is intermitant and that it usually happens when the car is "warming up" which I have stopped doing as Idling is bad for the car and wastes gas. I know its pathetic but I've also only just started to not ride the clutch(what can I say a woman taught me to drive stick).

I'm bringing the radio back to SAMM sound this thurs. Hopefully they'll fix it and not fuck it up any further.

2ndgen-eltalon
02-07-2011, 10:15 AM
Yay. I'm 90% sure I don't have a clutch problem. I researched it and it said that if you shift from 1st to 4th and you feel the car pull you forward while the RPMs dip real low then you probably don't have a clutch problem and it worked. No slipping, I must have just been imagining things before.

Also ticking hasn't happened in a little bit. It seem s to happen more when its really cold out. I don't know what it could be but I do know that it is intermitant and that it usually happens when the car is "warming up" which I have stopped doing as Idling is bad for the car and wastes gas. I know its pathetic but I've also only just started to not ride the clutch(what can I say a woman taught me to drive stick).

I'm bringing the radio back to SAMM sound this thurs. Hopefully they'll fix it and not fuck it up any further.

Good. Although the test does lie sometimes in certain cases. But just you know let the car go about its thing in the morning. Let it warm up like 5 minutes, get fluids circulating and what not.

Hopefully they actually do there job this time, I don't see what is so damn hard about being an audio guru for a job can be? Most of it is common sense electrical, and routing. Other than that its plug and play.

Good Luck.

90BLACKAWDTSI
02-07-2011, 12:03 PM
On the radio. Red is 12v switched power meaning only when you turn the key should have power. Yellow is 12v constant even with the key off. Definitely get the ground connected as well.

FormulaDz92
02-07-2011, 04:12 PM
On the radio. Red is 12v switched power meaning only when you turn the key should have power. Yellow is 12v constant even with the key off. Definitely get the ground connected as well.

Thats a help. I'm pretty sure they used the ground wire from the cig. lighter as well(morons). You would think they get paid $85 an hour and they call me after 20 min to say its done. I'd rather they tell me I have a blown fuse or a wireing problem. Then I could just get that fixed and have the whole thing done right instead of this stupid cheap solution.

FormulaDz92
02-09-2011, 08:05 PM
Car goes in tomorrow morning. Also can someone list reasons why when I let up my clutch the needle dips from 1000 rpm down to about 200? It used to only dip down to 500 at the min. FYI I always try to give it as little gas as possible when starting from a stop. Is it just because of the winter or is it a result of my radio being powered by the cig. lighter? This happens even with the headlights off and no defroster(but is worse when they are on) Any ideas? Maybe alternator? Maybe throttle body? I really don't know anything about this stuff...

If its fixed after the radio is fixed I'll let you know.

Darksurfr
02-10-2011, 02:27 AM
As long as the white reflectors have orange bulbs, they are fine with me!

nix that. Get the silverstar amber bulbs as they are silver in coloration but blink amber colored. MUCH better then some nastly looking amber bulb in a clear housing.

FormulaDz92
02-10-2011, 08:02 PM
nix that. Get the silverstar amber bulbs as they are silver in coloration but blink amber colored. MUCH better then some nastly looking amber bulb in a clear housing.

noted. I'll work on the little things once the larger problems are all sorted out

FormulaDz92
02-13-2011, 05:21 AM
Ok when i get to about 4000 rpm(usually never go over that) and am going pretty fast I get the old catalytic converter smell. I thought it should have been broken in by now... I have to jack up the car sometime and check the whole exhaust.

2ndgen-eltalon
02-13-2011, 07:46 AM
Maybe its still got a bunch of crust and soot still in the Down Pipe, you could check that out if the smell is still that bad. Are you sure its not the smell of your clutch? Any Check Engine Light?

FormulaDz92
02-15-2011, 06:33 PM
No check engine light. I'm not sure. I really not too good with smells. I was really hard on the old Volvo 850's clutch when i was first learning and I'm pretty sure its not the same smell... Getting the ticking from under the hood and the swishing from the brakes fixed in the next two days.

FormulaDz92
02-17-2011, 07:03 PM
Got the car back today. He fixed the brake fubbing on the rear passenger side. Unfortunately the car didn't do the ticking while he had it so that is still not resolved. It seems to happen when it is cold out especially. Very annoying.

FormulaDz92
02-19-2011, 05:50 AM
He also thinks that the exhaust manifold may have a leak/crack so I might just end up getting headers after all. If I do I'll probably get the DC Sports 4-2-1 one piece ceramic headers from raceinspired.com.

2ndgen-eltalon
02-19-2011, 07:05 AM
Okay, Well I've got a small Idea, Next cold morning we have, have your mom or roommate come out and start your car, before/when they start it get underneath to the best of your ability, get around the tranny, under the cross member/slave cylinder/clutch fork area. Have her start the car, then see if you can hear it louder, If you can it is more than likely your Throw-out Bearing for the clutch.

You could also look up a way to put a flat tipped screwdriver underneath the bell-housing and the handle to your ear so you can get a better hearing of what is happening/ it sounds like, and if the sound gets quieter, then you can use the screwdriver trick to better understand where its coming from. Just use common sense around moving parts/pulleys etc.

Now good thing you got the brake issue taken care of right away. Don't wanna leave the brakes bad for long, bad things can happen. There easy enough to fix right away, just not always cheap.

Now I know you stated the stock exhaust manifold may have a crack or leak, there isn't going to be any noticeable difference in power gains, people can say what they want but it is just going to change how the fumes exit the manifold. So it will be an easy fix if in fact your manifold is really cracked. But it could just be the Multi Layer Gasket, whomever change's or checks it out though.

Make sure you or the shop uses plenty of PB Blaster on the bolts/studs, they are very rusted and have been subjected to thousands of heat cycle's, they will break, and most of the time when the do, they need to be drilled out, and tapped for new hardware.

Now maybe you will be lucky like me and not have ANY break on you, they may all come out smooth with a light touch and plenty of Lube, haha I guess you could say kinda like a 2 minute man. Sorry I had to throw that in.

Long Post I know, Sorry, But just want to make sure you don't end up throwing more money to the shop than needed.

FormulaDz92
02-20-2011, 08:17 PM
thanks i appreciate it. I'll get the brakes done right away. also I'll try the suggestion with the tapping sound. its just so damn inconsistant. If I do the manifold I think I'll just look for some used 420a headers in the parts section and I'll get some gaskets(and spring bolt things) from my parts shop. And probably some new brake pads. Anyway hopefully this will all be solved soon... also my alignment is off

2ndgen-eltalon
02-21-2011, 07:15 AM
Ah, now why would your alignment be off? Have you been out in the snow too much having fun? All tire's balanced and wearing correctly? Not missing any lugs? Bent Rims? Just small things to look for real quick.

The Alignment could also be off because of your brakes, depending on how bad they are, you have to take into account that with bad brakes, riding on the rotor alot of the time, is going to give your car more rolling resistance. So its pulling to one side, whichever is worse, because there is more energy needed then usual to move the car under its own power. So say you have bad brakes, when they replace them it will take less energy to move the car.

Also, believe this, I don't think I mentioned it before, but the tapping could also be the Manifold leak, When it is coldest it makes the noise, Because Heat Expands things, especially metal, so when its getting warmer on the manifold the crack is closing up, so the noise goes away, but when the manifold is 20 degree's the crack is open, so that is why you hear it when it is cold. So take that into mind, it could be opening when hot, closing when cold, I.E first start of the day.

Go with a Mitsubishi Multi Layer Gasket, to ensure it doesn't leak again, for a long time anyway. I believe it is a 3 layer gasket, but its around 15-30$ at your local Satan.

Do some ebay searching, Header's can be had for cheap there, Just make sure you get the right product and don't spend as much as possible.

But look around the manifold for cracks, I'm just trying to make sure we find the noise coming from the right place. Listen well too.

Good Luck, Report Results.

FormulaDz92
02-25-2011, 06:49 PM
car is tucked away in the garage. I'll give it a good look tomorrow, add some oil tighten all the bolts on the exhaust, check for the suspected leak from the manifold, and wash it.

Bad News: Check engine light has just come on :( I'll bring it in to the mechanic on Monday because I still don't have a diagnostic scanner yet... Is it worth it to get one?

FormulaDz92
02-28-2011, 04:54 PM
Ok, I had the check engine light "fixed." There were to error codes; Aft-most O2 sensor and an "Evap code". He explained this to me and seemed to think that it may have bee caused by me running my tank very low :( stupid I know. So he fixed the O2 sensor and canceled both codes. He said to just go back if the light goes on again because it will probably be the evap. thing.

Could someone explain to me in the simplest terms what an evap. code means?

Also where should I buy a Mitsubishi Multi Layer Gasket? If i just go to my part's place will they know what I mean or should I buy online?

And I STILL have not even removed the heat shield and checked the condition of the manifold. Maybe tomorrow...

FormulaDz92
03-01-2011, 04:59 PM
Light is back on i guess the system has to get "evap'd" I'm bringing it in tomorrow :(.

If there does turn out to be an exhaust leak and all sighs point to there being one any suggestions for headers? 4-2-1 better than 4-1-1? Are the gains so minimal that it won't even matter? What about ebay brands vs DC Sports Headers? Any + all suggestions and reccomendations are welcome. Thanks

2ndgen-eltalon
03-04-2011, 09:17 AM
Well thats good to hear the CEL was minimal. The Headers you will not notice the difference of power with, but go for the 421, they have better flow to them & the welds aren't all shit either.

Ebay will work for them, Now get your MLS Gasket at the Dealer. Its only 65$ IIRC.

FormulaDz92
03-05-2011, 12:28 PM
Alright how about 1 piece header vs 2 piece? Also I have been trying to remove the heat shield but am having trouble getting the bolt that is under the radiator hose off. Should I remove the hose? If so how would I go about doing that?

I'll take pictures if you want...

FormulaDz92
03-08-2011, 08:25 PM
anyone?

2ndgen-eltalon
03-09-2011, 07:48 AM
I would go with the standard 1 piece setup, tried and true, so you know it's not crap.

Now for the bolts I have a feeling your going to be sitting there with PB Blaster for a while. If you haven't heard of it, goto your local auto store, its cheap, and works great on rusted/corroded bolts.

Remove your Radiator hose, there should 1 clamp on the Thermostat Housing & another clamp on the Radiator Neck, of course your not gonna loose a ton of coolant, but some will spill out, you may drain the radiator if you don't want to waste fluid, there is a drain plug on the passenger side of the radiator, unscrew it, but don't pull it out, its not supposed to come all the way out. After you remove your clamps the hose should pop right off with some elbow grease.

Anyways, once you remove the upper hose, you shouldn't have too much trouble getting a grip on the bolt, a hammer helps break the rust loose too. If it is that bad, do a little at a time, spray pb, wait 5 minutes, give it a good whack, spray again, etc. You get the idea.

FormulaDz92
03-09-2011, 02:37 PM
thanks. 2ndGen-etalon. I hope to get to that this weekend depending on the weather. Its really rainy here.

Update:
1. Evap. Component Scheduled to be installed next monday (dealer piece)
2. Returned "new" sunroof which was leaking. Have not got $ back for it yet because lack of record. Soon hopefully.

FormulaDz92
03-13-2011, 06:01 PM
Well, I finally got around to changing out the mirrors and removing the heat shield today :) This is a small crack in the manifold so I going to go ahead and get some headers.

Unfortunately I'm having trouble finding a 420a 4-2-1 1 piece header. I'd really appreciate it if someone could fine me one. Thanks

*Price is something of an issue*

2ndgen-eltalon
03-14-2011, 10:37 AM
Good Stuff, Knew you had the Common Stock Manifold Crack. I had it on an old GS back in 2006. I'll see what I can find for a Header. You could be using the wrong search terms though.

2ndgen-eltalon
03-14-2011, 10:49 AM
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=420a+headers&_sacat=&_dmpt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=420a+exhaust&_osacat=0&bkBtn=&_trksid=p4506.m270.l1313

That Is what I've come up with, Cheap too, just disregard the Neon options.
Any Eclipse 420A, or Talon 420A, or Avenger 420A, they are all the same engine, besides the neon that has the Manifolds on opposite of ours.

There not gonna give you any gains in HP, but make a great shiny replacement, somewhat add to the appearance of your engine bay.

benspilk09
03-14-2011, 07:19 PM
Why are you so set on a 4-2-1 header? I have always thought that 4-1 headers sounded better, especially on the old toyota pickups with the 22r. The stock 4-2-1 tubular manifold makes it have this nasty dull drone and they sound more like a motorcycle with the long tube 4-1. I personally would get one of these if you go the header rout http://www.maperformance.com/megan-racing-mitsubishi-eclipse-95-99-420a-non-turbo-equal-length-header.html

As for your exhaust manifold being cracked, I recently put a head gasket in my 420a and noticed a few large cracks in my manifold where it collected, mine were just stress cracks and do not leak, so this might not even be the source of your ticking problem. I know that my 420a has always had a little piston slap in cold weather which made a quiet ticking/knocking sound, and you just either have to ignore that or do a rebuild to fix it.

I get that EGR code all the time in my car, I have cleaned the whole system and it is in proper working order (the plunger on the EGR valve opens at part throttle like its supposed to) and I still get it, I am interested if any other peoples cars do this as well. When mine comes up I just cancel it with my code reader, sometimes it comes back in a week and sometimes it comes back in 6 months, I have no idea.

benspilk09
03-14-2011, 07:28 PM
Shoot I misread your post, you have an evap code. Your evap system catches the evaporating gasoline fumes from your fuel tank and runs them to the engine to burn. Many things can cause this code, none are really serious. Your gas cap could be sealing improperly, you could have a hole in one of the hoses that runs up to the evap canister in the engine bay, I have set mine off before just by overfilling the gas tank as well, which puts liquid fuel in the lines when there should only be vapor.

As for your gasket, I used the one in the fel pro kit and have no exhaust leaks. I wasn't aware that there were any mitsubishi brand parts sold for the 420a either. All those headers in 2ndgen-etalon's post were 4-1, which is what I would use. I don't know about no name ebay ones though, I have seen some cars that have pretty nasty looking rusted out headers that were probably off ebay, it is worth it to spend between $1-200 on something that will stay looking nice and functioning properly for many years IMO rather than spending $50 on one that will be junk in 5.

FormulaDz92
03-14-2011, 07:53 PM
Thanks a lot benspilk09, unfortunately here in "jersey" we aren't allowed to pump our own gas so it is very possible that that is what happened(GAS causing evap. code)

My mechanic decided some piece needed replacing and the light has not gone on since. I will keep you updated though.

2ndgen-eltalon suggested the 4-2-1 header. I do realize i won't be getting much HP either way. I'll probably go the way of the Megan Racing header. Same brand as my exhaust which has not rusted at all through the harsh, salty NJ winter. Sound good?

One question about "piston slap," would it be an inconsistant thing as mine is? Would using coventional oil rather than synthetic make any difference?

benspilk09
03-14-2011, 08:21 PM
The megan header looks pretty good and should hold up from what I read about that company so It seems like a good choice, but I have never purchased any of their products before. If your current exhaust handles the salt fine then I'm sure that header will too.

I can't say whether or not oil will change the sound of it, as I have only ever run mobil 1 10w30 in my car, but it is caused by pistons fitting loose in the bore and then they sort of rattle, it of course goes away when the engine warms up because the pistons expand and fit tightly again. My car only does it when its around 30 degrees or below. I don't know exactly what your sound is like, but here is a video of what piston slap sounds like: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p98AqJhH9Qs
Mine is not anywhere NEAR that loud, but thats the only video that I could find where you could actually hear it. I don't know if thats like your noise or not, if yours doesn't sound like that you can disregard the piston slap idea, but I know mine has some faint piston slap on cold startups and figured I would mention it.

2ndgen-eltalon
03-15-2011, 10:05 AM
Shoot I misread your post, you have an evap code. Your evap system catches the evaporating gasoline fumes from your fuel tank and runs them to the engine to burn. Many things can cause this code, none are really serious. Your gas cap could be sealing improperly, you could have a hole in one of the hoses that runs up to the evap canister in the engine bay, I have set mine off before just by overfilling the gas tank as well, which puts liquid fuel in the lines when there should only be vapor.

As for your gasket, I used the one in the fel pro kit and have no exhaust leaks. I wasn't aware that there were any mitsubishi brand parts sold for the 420a either. All those headers in 2ndgen-etalon's post were 4-1, which is what I would use. I don't know about no name ebay ones though, I have seen some cars that have pretty nasty looking rusted out headers that were probably off ebay, it is worth it to spend between $1-200 on something that will stay looking nice and functioning properly for many years IMO rather than spending $50 on one that will be junk in 5.

Great Input Benspik09, I never knew of such things happening to new headers, besides stock obviously. But as long as you go for the right material, If the supplier list's it, I would think you should be good, and then again, you can always heat wrap it too.

The Evap. System, I have not much experience in, so that is up to you Benspik09.

I know there is a small difference in tone & flow with 4-2-1, and yes I agree with you, the 4-1 usually sounds better, especially on a 420A. I would definitely go for the Megan, since you have the exhaust aswell it should bolt right up, and be a nice full tone. I wasn't so set on it if you will, I was simply giving him some idea's, showing him some example's, letting the OP see what they preferred.

The MLS Gasket I was talking about, I know its not Mitsubishi, but There is a Multi Layer Steel Gasket available for the 420A. I've read and been told, some dealer's have it, others don't and haven't heard of it, So its kinda a Hit and miss. I purchased mine off of Ebay about 1 1/2 years ago. It is a real Steel Gasket aswell. So searching around is your best bet.

Oh joy, I was hoping piston slap wasn't what it sounded like, but then again it could simply be something else. I've heard Piston Slap can get quieter with Thicker Oil. So you could try that if the sound isn't gone when you replace headers.

It could be so many things though, piston slap usually doesn't sound like Tick, usually its more of REALLY Hollow, faint sound, almost like Rod Knock, but not as intense nor loud. Quiet.

This is on most piston/internal combustion engines, when you first start your car, first start of the day, anything below 60 degree's. Same thing you said Benspik09. Your piston has some "wiggle" room if you will. It doesn't fit as tight as it does when your up to operating temp. So that could be part of the sound. Either way, Premature Engine wear is caused by this, running while not up to temp, Putting it Under Heavy Load "Driving" when cold. All great factors to consider.

So we could guess all day at it, but you don't know until you start digging around. I just don't think its piston slap now that he's found a crack. :dunno:

IMHO it is a combination of things, like Manifold Crack, Loose Bolts/screw's, metal bracket not tight, etc, etc.


I feel like I just wrote an essay. Sorry for the long post guys.:eek:

FormulaDz92
03-15-2011, 04:26 PM
Actually my engine does sound a lot like that video of a subaru's piston slap. Not as loud either but definately similar. Before I knew better I did drive in a somewhat "spirited" manner when the engine was still cold :(. Too bad i didn't really know any car people. Oh well. I would rule out the crack in the manifold for the tapping because the tapping increases as i rev the engine and it is very regular and unlike the cooling of the exhaust system or engine after the car is turned off. As far as temperature it has gotten down to about 5 degrees at the absolute lowest around here so that may very well be it.

I'm ordering the exhaust tonight :)

Insurance bill came in today. 3500 for the next year even though its under my mom's policy and it is ... well... somewhat old and slow
*mental note to call the insurance lady*

Also probably a stupid question but the header + flex pipe won't bypass my CAT will it?

FormulaDz92
03-15-2011, 06:31 PM
Header ordered :) off MAP

FormulaDz92
03-18-2011, 07:31 AM
alright so where would i go about ordering the Multi-Layer-Steel Gasket?

FormulaDz92
03-18-2011, 07:35 AM
found this
http://www.cimotorsports.net/motor-sport-products/cometic-head-gasket-eclipsetalon-420a.html

i was kinda hoping for something cheaper

CrackedDSM
03-18-2011, 09:14 AM
Why do you think you need an MLS gasket? Are you planning on running really high compression, or turbo/nitrous in the future? If not, just stick with the stock HG.

FormulaDz92
03-19-2011, 05:28 AM
Only because 2ndgen-eltalon recommended it. I'm pretty sure my header does not come with a gasket.

CrackedDSM
03-19-2011, 02:52 PM
I don't see the use in spending $150 on an MLS gasket unless you are boosted, planning on being boosted very soon, or plan on running nitrous/high compression. Just stick with a composite, man.

FormulaDz92
03-20-2011, 06:34 PM
alright thats good. I really didn't want to spend that much anyway.

On a completely different note one of the vent covers(best way to describe them) fell off my car(one of the metal clips must have fallen off before so it was loose) and I ran it over by accident. Any idea what the piece is called so i can start looking for another one on ebay or in the classifieds?

picture below

FormulaDz92
03-22-2011, 05:39 PM
bump anyone know the name of this piece ^ ? Also do they come with when you buy a new front bumper?

FormulaDz92
03-23-2011, 01:12 PM
Just got the megan racing header today :) Now i just need to find out how to install it haha. I'll just go to my parts store and ask them. Apparently i need some sort of gasket dressing...?

Pics soon

FormulaDz92
03-27-2011, 03:05 PM
Excuse me for being dumb but is the part that goes between the header and the engine the head gasket. Also what are the exact steps needed in replacing it?

DSM Bud
03-27-2011, 05:44 PM
Exhaust manifold gasket, head gasket is between the head and bottom end of the block.
It's all good dude, better to ask here then go to an Auto store and look like a tard in front of people lol.

FormulaDz92
03-27-2011, 08:23 PM
haha you took too long to respond. I already look like a tard :P

FormulaDz92
03-28-2011, 06:21 PM
So what do I need/ have to do to install an exhaust manifold gasket?

FormulaDz92
03-29-2011, 07:17 PM
Updated Do-do List:

Install Headers
Find + sand + paint wingless rear hatch
Sand + repaint rear bumper
Find + sand + paint front bumper
Find passenger side front bumper insert
Fix Rust
?Suspension?

FormulaDz92
04-03-2011, 06:02 PM
So what do I need/ have to do to install an exhaust manifold gasket?

repeat i know

MyBoostedGST
04-03-2011, 06:05 PM
So what do I need/ have to do to install an exhaust manifold gasket?

repeat i know
Grab a Haynes manual and read? :dunno:

I don't know what you are looking for. Take the old exhaust manifold off, take the gasket off, make sure you wipe down the head and manifold, make sure all the gasket is off both surfaces, put the new gasket on and torque all bolts back down to required specs. Seems pretty self explanatory to me.

:dunno:

95Eclipse_Scott
04-03-2011, 07:04 PM
Grab a Haynes manual and read? :dunno:

I don't know what you are looking for. Take the old exhaust manifold off, take the gasket off, make sure you wipe down the head and manifold, make sure all the gasket is off both surfaces, put the new gasket on and torque all bolts back down to required specs. Seems pretty self explanatory to me.

:dunno:

I would go back every 200-300 miles and recheck the bolts. Make sure they stay tight. Probably up until 1000 miles.

FormulaDz92
04-03-2011, 07:30 PM
Grab a Haynes manual and read? :dunno:

I don't know what you are looking for. Take the old exhaust manifold off, take the gasket off, make sure you wipe down the head and manifold, make sure all the gasket is off both surfaces, put the new gasket on and torque all bolts back down to required specs. Seems pretty self explanatory to me.

:dunno:

yup thats pretty much all I was looking for. Thanks.

FormulaDz92
04-04-2011, 07:02 PM
Also these has been nagging at me.

First what exactly is "torquing on" and how do you do it? I know it is tightening bolts but nothing beyond that.

Also does that detergent that supposedly flushes out your engine and lines and get rid of "deposits" actually work? My gf's dad did it to her car and she says it runs a lot smoother (06 sentra) but my mechanic said it just "makes problems"

MyBoostedGST
04-05-2011, 11:04 PM
Also these has been nagging at me.

First what exactly is "torquing on" and how do you do it? I know it is tightening bolts but nothing beyond that.

Also does that detergent that supposedly flushes out your engine and lines and get rid of "deposits" actually work? My gf's dad did it to her car and she says it runs a lot smoother (06 sentra) but my mechanic said it just "makes problems"
"torque" means to use a torque wrench, find the specified correct amount of torque (Either listed in ft lbs or in inch lbs) and use the torque wrench to make sure that you do not over tighten. Double check these nuts/bolts after the first drive and then once or twice more over the next 100 miles or so.

By detergent, do you mean "Seafoam"?

b00sted_spyder
04-05-2011, 11:29 PM
Where are the pictures?

FormulaDz92
04-07-2011, 08:00 PM
"torque" means to use a torque wrench, find the specified correct amount of torque (Either listed in ft lbs or in inch lbs) and use the torque wrench to make sure that you do not over tighten. Double check these nuts/bolts after the first drive and then once or twice more over the next 100 miles or so.

By detergent, do you mean "Seafoam"?

I have "Prestone Complete Fuel System Cleaner" I have heard of seafoam though. The stuff my gf's dad uses did not apparently cause any smoke. unlike the vid shown
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k06CxGyX63M

As for pictures the new header is still not installed so nothing to really take pictures of. Im going to California for spring break though and when i get back on thursday I'll finally get to work

By the way huge disaster with what should have been a simple oil change. The gasket from the old filter got stuck on and i didn't notice and now my garage has a ton of oil on the floor. All fixed now though. I feared the worst.

MyBoostedGST
04-07-2011, 08:21 PM
By the way huge disaster with what should have been a simple oil change. The gasket from the old filter got stuck on and i didn't notice and now my garage has a ton of oil on the floor. All fixed now though. I feared the worst.
Lube the gasket with oil before putting it on next time. It will be a lot less likely to occur.

FormulaDz92
04-07-2011, 08:46 PM
Alright thanks. Little stuff like this are the things I have to learn.

2ndgen-eltalon
04-09-2011, 08:51 AM
By the way huge disaster with what should have been a simple oil change. The gasket from the old filter got stuck on and i didn't notice and now my garage has a ton of oil on the floor. All fixed now though. I feared the worst.

You would be very surprised how common it is to do this, Putting a new filter on with the old gasket still there, been there done that, sure we all know someone who's made the mistake, its just so shocking once you see all that oil.

At least you caught it, a buddy of mine did it 4 years back, spun a rod bearing the same day, but again, that was his mistake.

Hurry up and get that Fxxking Manifold on, I demand an update.:D

Jeff.

FormulaDz92
04-09-2011, 10:00 AM
Thanks and your right. As soon as I hear or see anything out of the ordinary I usually check underneath the car first. This time I was very glad I did.

As for the exhaust manifold I'm on the other side of the Continent right now about to go see Formula Drift Round 1 in Long Beach. So I'll get to work thursday night when I get back. (If I go back haha southern California is beautiful compared to that stinky state where NY dumps its trash)

FormulaDz92
04-17-2011, 06:11 PM
Today: Flex pipe is almost removed, i don't have the correct wrench to remove the sensor so I'll have to get that tomorrow. The heat shield has also been removed along with some bolts. Should be done by thursday because thats when I need the car.

FormulaDz92
04-18-2011, 07:16 PM
Flex pipe is completely off. Only two bolts remaining on the manifold. One of them on the bottom left is hidden behind a lot of hoses. Hopefully I i just remove the radiator hose there'll be enough clearance.

2LiterRiceEater
04-19-2011, 12:22 AM
Picsss! :P

FormulaDz92
04-19-2011, 07:10 PM
Haha ok. Glad people are actually interested.

I went through this whole thing about a half an hour ago trying to get one stupid bolt of the manifold(the second to last bolt). There is this metal tab that is welded on to the water pipe assembly as it crosses in front of the motor and it was preventing me from removing this bolt. If I had not just cut this little tab with a pair of branch trimmers I had lying around I probably would have had to take about 3 more days to finish. So thats why the intake piping is all out of place and the battery is disconnected.

Anyway here is the pictures finally.

2ndgen-eltalon
04-20-2011, 06:16 AM
Glad to see its coming together man, Looking Good. Although it isn't required to cut that tab, if you look on the Trans Side of the Head, you'll see its bolted up underneath/2"behind the Cam Sensor.

Unbolt it from the head over there, that should be your wiggle room, no cutting ever required for me, I've done headers on many, many 420A's.

But looks like its still turning out just fine, lets see the finished product!!

Jeff.

FormulaDz92
04-20-2011, 07:55 PM
What a turn of events today. I finally got those last bolts of the manifold and thought I was in the home stretch. I got the header on snuggly and the flex pipe wasn't too tough. So as you can tell from the picture I next had to connect back the air intake piping and put the battery back in and connect it up. So here I am with this stupid smile on my face and I go to start the car and ... nothing. The lights go on and thats it. Ok I'm still optimistic so I pull my mom's subaru up and try to jump it...same thing, interior lights (dim) but not even an attempt to turn over. I looked over everything fuses, battery connections, and they all seem fine. So long story short my dead car is now sitting at my mechanic's place 2 miles down the road. I guess this stuff happens.

*Also I had no room to get the O2 sensor in the piping because it was too close to the fans. How do I go about doing that?

FormulaDz92
04-22-2011, 10:09 AM
Turns out the battery was just dead. My mechanic charged it up and now it works fine. I still don"t know why it was dead maybe a door was open while I was working on the car. Anyway the car is back and working great. I just wish I could get the O2 sensor to fit in its spot.

FormulaDz92
04-25-2011, 05:14 PM
Updated list of stuff:
1 patch rust in wheel wells
2 weld hole caused by jack stand
3 get heat wrap
4 get matching black passenger side door handle
5 fix electrical/wiring problem
6 ?new front bumper?
7 buy new rear hatch + paint + install
8 remove all tints(since I'll never pay to have the hatch tinted
9 wash + wax
10 find + fix exhaust leak
11 install forward O2 sensor
12 use interior fabric cleaner + stain remover
13 fix light behind radio
14 get new non-leaky sun roof
15 remove smudge on windsheild caused by wipers
16 paint old rims again
17 fix sunroof upolstry
18 sand + paint rear bumper

FormulaDz92
05-01-2011, 08:44 PM
9 wash + wax is done

2LiterRiceEater
05-02-2011, 10:33 AM
Post up some pics!

FormulaDz92
05-02-2011, 05:37 PM
*I can't forget to change spark plugs, air filter, and buy some good heat wrap.*

I'll take pics this week.

Also finally picking up a nice hatch with no holes in it and no rust along with a non-leaky sunroof this weekend. :) finally!

DSM4LIFE-AWD
05-03-2011, 04:57 PM
This thread needs more pic to win. To post a pic simply paste the url between -->put the url here without the arrow ;)

Change the air filter ? Are you using a new KN, I had the Iceman intake kit back in the day :)

FormulaDz92
05-04-2011, 01:11 PM
I'm debating if I should just buy a cheap used CAI, or get a K&N filter. Here's a pic of the header

Maybe a hi-def picture later when its not raining and when I'm not late for work.

DSM4LIFE-AWD
05-04-2011, 01:30 PM
Just get an intake pipe from ebay, it will do the job and you'll have nice aluminium pipe. Next summer just change the filter for a K&N one. Et voila ! :)

FormulaDz92
05-04-2011, 07:00 PM
Alright thanks. I'll probably try to find a used one from a part out on craigslist or something. I almost have enough money for a GSX but I'll need some extra for insurance and the $#!t load of maintenance that goes along with getting one. (haha GSX 2 grand, maintenance 5 grand, bloody knuckles for the next 8 months...priceless)

FormulaDz92
05-05-2011, 07:26 PM
Spark plugs are just changed. Turns out the ones that were in there were supposed to be used in the 4G64 engine. Well hmm. Now the correct ones are in there(champion brand as well reccomended by the owner's manual) and its running a tiny bit smoother but that may just be my imagination

FormulaDz92
05-09-2011, 10:13 AM
And here's a picture with the new hatch. Its silver although that's hard to see in the picture. Im getting it painted in a couple weeks. I still have to get heat wrap, the adhesive stuff for it, bondo with the blue hardener, and get the time belt checked/replaced.

FormulaDz92
05-10-2011, 08:42 PM
Finally got some header wrap, high-temp paint, and steel ties from Bruce's Speed Shop in Rockaway. The timing belt is getting checked tomorrow so pictures will likely be up this weekend(before and after).

2ndgen-eltalon
05-11-2011, 07:29 AM
Looking good man, Car is coming together nicely. Me like you're new Hatch!!! Keep it up buddy, More Pics.

By the way, Although The FSM state's that Champion/Bosch Spark Plugs should be in there, They simply fire at too low of a temperature in the 420A, Thus causing misfire problems. Get some NGK's in there! She will be much happier. If you're curious about it, just do some searching around, you'll see what I mean.

Again though, Sexy Car, Keep her that Way.
Jeff.

FormulaDz92
05-11-2011, 03:10 PM
What is the code for the NGKs? For example the Champions were RC9YC5. Thanks. I'm just trying to turn it into a nice looking DD that I can rely on for the next 2-3 years.

Meanwhile I'm trying to save most of the left over money and put it toward a non-rusted (or lightly rusted) 2G GSX, preferably 2Gb. I'm thinking 7 K will cover the car and insurance for a year. I have a decent garage for storage and am making it so I can work a little bit better in there. ie. clean it out and add 2 or three shop lights. :)

SlownessGS
05-12-2011, 11:41 AM
Since I can finally post, this looks great. But, Damn you for finding that hatch! Ive been looking for a Silver Hatch, Wingless or with the High Rise. I have yet to find out. Keep going though!

FormulaDz92
05-12-2011, 07:12 PM
Thanks. Just got the timing belt done because I know its a notorious problem on 2Gs and because I don't want to worry about it later. Also my mechanic got the 02 sensor to fit in the spot. Now I have to change it though because its so dirty from dangling there the whole time. This weekend: heat-wrap header, replace O2 sensor, change to NGK spark plugs. (still waiting on that answer 2ndgen-eltalon)

Loner
05-13-2011, 03:14 PM
The timing belt problem is more toward the 4g63 motors.

FormulaDz92
05-14-2011, 09:14 AM
Oh well its done now anyway.

For the spark plugs which heat range do I want?
http://www.cimotorsports.net/motor-sport-products/ngk-spark-plug-set-eclipsetalon-420a.html

Loner
05-14-2011, 12:14 PM
I would avoid ordering from them, I tried to order a throttle body from them and had nothing but bad luck. But I would go with NGK #6418, They are iridum plugs, they burn the hottest which is what you want for a non turbo car.

2ndgen-eltalon
05-15-2011, 06:33 AM
Good Choice Loner & Formula, The BKR6E'S are a good choice. Get them In, And just to be safe, I would look over the shop's work & whatnot. Make sure the Timing Cover Bolts are all there, and TIGHT, Crank Pulley Back on straight, So long as they didn't beat it on with a Hammer.

Jeff.

FormulaDz92
05-16-2011, 07:34 PM
Alright thanks. I'll order the spark plugs tomorrow. Hopefully get the rust patched next weekend. Wireing in the new hatch is finally connected as it will likely be a month befor it is painted(urgent matters first). As for the header I just finished painting it tonight. It will be wrapped early tomorrow morning and hopefully installed by 7:30 ish. Anyway here are the pictures thus far.

As for now, I'm going to sleep. Work at the auto body shop starts tomorrow :) (Its not real work but its a work/study program that most HS seniors do at the end of the year)

FormulaDz92
05-19-2011, 07:00 PM
Alright the headers still aren't taped up. The car is leaking oil(Im changing the oil pan plug gasket tomorrow and checking the gasket on the oil filter) The check engine light is taken care of :) oh and the car is now making a pinging noise hooray :( and the driver door handle broke off. I'm putting new ones on this weekend.

Also learned some basic MIG welding at the autobody shop. And I still don't have the good spark plugs because I keep forgetting.

FormulaDz92
05-21-2011, 09:55 PM
Handles are replaced and I put the ngk's in. I also filed it up with premium fuel and there's still pining noise loud at 3500 rpm :( oil and headers tomorrow.

FormulaDz92
05-23-2011, 08:47 PM
Oil is draining at the moment. I believe the oil leak may be caused by the absence of the oil drain plug gasket or by a tear in the oil filter gasket. Heat wrap is on the headers but has not been silicone sprayed yet. Trying to figure out a way to dry it out in the muggy NJ weather (ie rain for 2 fricken weeks).

FormulaDz92
05-24-2011, 08:57 PM
Header is dried(I bolted it back on and let it steam while the car was on) and has been hi-temp painted. I'm going to install it tomorrow before I take the car to the mechanic to get the rubbing noise looked at along with the squeaking and the oil leak as well.

As it sits

Loner
05-24-2011, 11:23 PM
The headers look pretty good.

FormulaDz92
05-25-2011, 07:26 PM
Thanks man. The car is fixed now. I'm going to talk to my mechanic tomorrow(and pay him). Headers are on the car now and it all sounds good as new. If all goes well I'll get the fender back in shape soon, swap glass from my old RS hatch to the GSX one, and get it painted. Then fix up the bumpers.

Loner
05-26-2011, 08:30 AM
So what was all wrong with your car?

FormulaDz92
05-27-2011, 11:36 AM
A belt was loose. Thats what was causing the squeaking noise. My rusted oil pan is leaking and I'm ordering a new one now. Also there is a nail in my front tire thats causing a tapping noise. I'm going to plug that on monday.

2ndgen-eltalon
05-29-2011, 07:17 AM
At least it was only a belt. Glad to see you got her fixed. Man you're really getting up on this Maintenance, COOL! A little time, some brew, and some cash, and you're really getting you're car up to snuff.

So was the pinging related to the belt squeal? Or are you still trying to diagnose it?

Elaborate you're problem...

FormulaDz92
05-29-2011, 02:35 PM
The "pinging" is the name that my mechanic gave to the noise. The loose belt was corrected now the noise is gone. Next is get the hatch painted, work on the rust, new NGK spark-plug wires and a cheap eBay CAI with a K&N filter on it. Oh and install the oil pan and gasket when they come in. Then move on to the little details, then GSX hopefully by the end of the summer if i manage my money well. Could be a GST all I know is I'm going to try some autocross with it :) and a little with the RS before that to get a feel for it.

Loner
05-29-2011, 02:58 PM
So are you wanting to dd your Rs, and get a gsx to have fun in?

FormulaDz92
05-30-2011, 04:10 AM
Basicly. Well, that or fix the GSX up while I'm DDing the RS and when its good and ready, get rid of the RS and DD the GSX while I can get something RWD. I'm not sure yet all I know is GSXs sound like tons of fun and I'll learn a lot just fixing mine. After that I'll prob get a G35 coupe or Genesis 2.0T. Thats the plan anyway. However the Fiat 500 Abarth SS is pretty sick and in no way feminine haha.

FormulaDz92
06-07-2011, 02:26 PM
Update:
1. So the hatch and wing are all ready to be painted
2. A bolt snapped that held one of the hoses (while it was being charged)for the AC and the compressor has to be removed so the bolt can be drilled out
3. My oil pan is severly leaking and I am in the process of changing that
4. An ebay CAI is on its way because the filter was due for a change and why the H3LL not.
5. Oh and the new hatch closes really well now.

Welding + rust removal isn't even begun.

FormulaDz92
06-07-2011, 08:12 PM
Pics!!

FormulaDz92
06-09-2011, 08:22 PM
Turns out the oil pan wasn't the problem. It was leaking like crazy again today. I had a mechanic look at it really quick and the oil seems to be coming from higher up. :( I have not time to deal with the car this weekend because of Prom etc. The AC is also still not fixed and neither is the rust. The ebay intake is sitting in the box. Apparently the most likely problem is that there is a bad front timing belt seal. Anyway the mechanic can't even look at it until monday as his sister just passed away. For 5 seconds I actually considered buying a civic and just moving this car to the garage and working on it as a project(just maintainence not like turbo or any crap like that). But I'm sure this will all be sorted out by next week. I just want a GSX and a reliable DD. I'm learning a lot though. Hatch and new wing should be painted by tomorrow.

2ndgen-eltalon
06-28-2011, 02:28 PM
Shit. If he is positive its coming from higher up, then it is probably the worst seal to change on a 420A. REAR MAIN SEAL. Drop Trans, Pull Clutch, Pull Flywheel/Driveplate, then there is the REAR MAIN. They are very notorious on 420A's for leaking. It is one of the most common problems on our motors.

Now unless he can absolutely tell its coming from the timing side, then I may be a little worried. Easy way to find out if it is the Rear Main. Pull the Clutch Inspection Cover, its right next to the oil pan, but on the side of the trans/bellhousing. If there is oil in there, its the rear main, or trans input shaft seal.

If no Oil in the Clutch Access Panel, but yet still oil on the back/driver side of oil pan/block, then it could be the dreaded HG drivers bolt leak. It leaks over time due to 1-2MM TOO MUCH threading on a stock Head Bolt. Corrected usually by switching to ARP's HeadStuds.

If its POSITIVELY on the Timing Side. It could be either A), The Exhaust Camshaft Seal, B) The Intake Camshaft Seal, or C) The Oil Pump/Crankshaft Front Case Seal. OR, ha, OR the Oil Pan-Block Gasket. Those last 4 Seals are all TIMING side of the Engine. If you need pics I can show you.

Post Pics & We can identify the most common spot.

Positive its not the Valve Cover Gasket Leaking down the back/side of the head, making you think its coming from the pan? Very Common Mistake.

Good Luck, Report Results, Jeff.

FormulaDz92
06-28-2011, 08:40 PM
Sorry, I haven't updated in a while. The problem was already resolved...for $300. I just wouldn't have the time to do all that without having another car to drive. It wasn't the valve cover because that gasket was replaced less than a year ago and has not leaked since. I should really ask him what it turned out to be.

Anyway updates are a eBay CAI with 2.5 inch piping and I had the new hatch and wing painted to match. A few other little things happened but nothing really worth mentioning.

I have an opinion question. Should I
A. get a GSX project car at the end of the summer/early fall and hang on to the Eclipse as a DD
B. get the GSX, sell the RS and a get a nice, reliable, boring, ugly civic to DD while I'm working on the GSX
C. Just hang on to the RS as it will probably be reliable enough, and save up about 8 grand or more and get a newer car to DD such as an SRT-4 or something similar. (this is probably not going to the be most popular one.)

And pics

FunWheelDrive
06-28-2011, 09:04 PM
Whatever you do, dont get an srt-4.

90BLACKAWDTSI
06-28-2011, 09:10 PM
If you are leaking oil and it is not the oil pan, not on the timing side and not between the bell housing and the transmission then there is only 1 other place and the 420A is notorious for it also.

This is between the head and the block on the backside of the block.

On the safe side though check the oil pressure switch real good also.

2ndgen-eltalon
06-29-2011, 08:34 AM
If no Oil in the Clutch Access Panel, but yet still oil on the back/driver side of oil pan/block, then it could be the dreaded HG drivers bolt leak. It leaks over time due to 1-2MM TOO MUCH threading on a stock Head Bolt. Corrected usually by switching to ARP's HeadStuds. And a MLS Head Gasket too, obviously.



Glad to hear you got it fixed. But you should REALLY, Ask your mechanic what it was. Hopefully he is a trustworthy guy, and replaced the Gasket/Seal like a normal person. I guess, just go look over his work really good, hopefully he didn't just fix it with a little RTV.

FormulaDz92
07-18-2011, 06:48 PM
Not much is happening lately. I'm trying to decide what to do about this stupid broken bolt that connects my AC line to the compressor. I'll probably just leave it because I want more money to spend on a nice turbo model, probably GSX, maybe GST

FormulaDz92
08-14-2011, 12:37 PM
Alright so its been a while and finally there is a small update. Basically I got paranoid of hydrolock (i know its very rare) and decided to shorten my CAI instead of buy a short ram. Now I'm tempted to use words like custom but lets face it, it took me like 2 min to cut the pipe with a hack saw.

Also I'm getting all the neccesary tools for fixing the rust in my wheel wells today. ie. jackstands, impact hammer, grinder, and sanders. (all borrowed from my neighbor)

FormulaDz92
08-22-2011, 05:47 PM
So i managed to find the one thing to mess up my welding plans...I broke the welder. Basically the wire got tangled inside the machine, I cut it then realized that it was not sticking out the other end, then even worse, I attempted to push the cut wire through the tube with another strand and it got jammed before it came out the nozzle of the machine. So now there's a wire jammed in there.

I'm working on getting it fixed but I'm sure I won't have time to get it fixed and finish welding before the school year starts. So no progress on that until winter break. This sucks.

Also on rare occasions the car has begun to squeak very high pitched for the first ten or so minutes it is running then it goes away. There is no pattern to when this happens. I always keep it in the garage over nite. The period of time it is left and where it is left do not seem to matter. Any thoughts?

FormulaDz92
09-19-2011, 04:10 PM
Update: Had a bad idle pulley which was the cause of the noise. It has now been fixed. Pictures of the progress on the wingless hatch will be up soon. Some small bit of rust by the door frame was also taken care of. I think I might be able to do one of the wheel wells in increments since the driver side one isn't so bad.

Also been thinking about future cars again and the Miata 1.6L, 240sx(with the stock KA engine), obviously GSX, and 300zx (preferably with the Twin Turbo) are my 4 choices. I would really like a rwd car that I can just beat on and bring to the track(autocross) and that i won't car about its outward appearance. (Price is an issue: up to about 5k)However I've really grown to love DSMs and since i drove the two 2G GSXs I've kinda fallen in love with them. I still have a while until i even get the money to buy one but it's good to decide early. If i got the GSX though i would keep it really clean(not take it out in snow etc.)

FormulaDz92
09-27-2011, 05:08 PM
Squeaking is back (sigh). Also I'm beginning to think there is something wrong with my clutch/pressure plate/flywheel assembly. Whenever going from a stop it seems the car is extra sensitive to stalling(similar to if i started the car in second gear). It shudders slightly more than it used to and doesn't really seem to pull you forward all that much. So basically at lights im the one that takes forever to get going while people with automatics fly by me. Its annoying and from what I can remember my car wasn't always like this. I'm going to ask my mechanic about it tomorrow but does anyone here have any input?

*It doesn't act at all like a typical clutch-slipping problem.
*Also engine seems to run as smooth as usual.(minus the idle pulley squeak)

Also pretty much decided that I'll either get a 240sx with the KA24DE engine or a 2G GSX with a 6-bolt swap. Time will tell i guess

FormulaDz92
11-13-2011, 03:09 PM
Alright its been a while and sadly not much progress. I've been steadily working on the hatch and hopefully I'll be done in the next week or so. I've just switched over to the winter wheels today (Black RS wheels). No rust-work has been done yet sadly. Idle pulley has been replaced (by my mechanic) and it is working great. I think there is something wrong with my clutch but the problem is not as extreme as I made it out to be. Pictures will come with the next update.

2ndgen-eltalon
11-20-2011, 06:46 AM
Pedal Pressure seem normal? If so, fluid level normal, could try bleeding the clutch, but if you have full pressure then its not the issue.

Your TOB "throw out/clutch release bearing" is on its way out, it will get worse & worse from 1st & 2nd Gears, to the point where you don't want to stop the car. I personally have dealt with this on a handful of 420A's, including my own.

The TOB has a plastic inner housing attached to an outer bearing race & cup, It is ONE assembly. When they go bad, the plastic inside housing gets too much play on the Trans Input shaft, resulting in the bearing "shimmying" around. Aswell they ALSO go bad from simply being worn, if it doesn't rotate freely, like any other bearing, it needs to be replaced.

The cost about 25-30 at O'reilly auto or Dealership. If you have a good assortment of deep well & standard Metric sockets you can do it. Though it requires you drop the tranny. In all reality, with a helping hand aswell, you can have the trans dropped in 2 hours, & back in in less time. Though, plan a whole day for it, just incase you run into snapped bolts etc... I've got an awesome link for you too.

FormulaDz92
11-24-2011, 11:10 AM
Thanks a lot eltalon. I'm at NJIT now which has a pretty strong group of car enthusiests so one of my friend's dads actually owns his own shop so maybe in a little bit ill be able to get this TOB business taken care of there and learn a little too. Also idk if this has anything to do with a bad TOB but when I'm at about 3500 rpm in first and second I can hear a faint noise that as best as I can describe it sounds like someone shaking a tamborine really lightly. At the moment I do not have a back up car so either I'll wait until there is one available or I'll just take care of it over winter break and my gf can drive me for a little. Lastly what are the consequences of letting this problem go on for too long?

On to a different topic I have been working on the rusty bits on the old hatch and FINALLY I have some pictures. Also rims have been swapped back to winter/ beater wheels. The thing I did just today was sort of just for shits and giggles.

So I watch top gear a lot and you always see those cars that are all stripped out and really fast like the GT3 RS and the Ferrari F430 Scuderia(I think) and always thought that was cool. I know the hardcore racers on here all have stripped out interiors but I couldn't figure out a good reason to do that to mine(temporarily) until I read from some government site that removing 100 lbs from your car can improve ur gas milage by so many mpg(i don't remember the number). So this break its thanksgiving so I'm like what the hell I need to vacum out my car anyway so why not strip out the heavy stuff and see what my mpg is. I have an RS model so already no power windows or mirrors.

I removed: spare tire: 26 lb
back of bench seat: 11.5 lb
bench seat bottom: 9 lb
pass sear: 41 lb
spare tire cover: 5 lb
miscelanious: 1 lb
survival bag: 30 lb

TOTAL: 123.5 lb

I do idle a lot and warm up my car so it will be interesting to see what I get mpg wise. I usually average 26.64 mpg but that was in the fall with less warming up.

Like I said this is just for shits and giggles. I am not a tree hugger just a broke teenager who wants to see if he can save a little money.

*Just wondering what kind of fuel economy some of the other RSs and GSs out there are getting(ESIs too)

Now for pics

FormulaDz92
12-07-2011, 07:26 PM
Well I caved and put the stuff back in before finding the fuel economy. Combined I got roughly 28 MPG.

FormulaDz92
12-19-2011, 11:17 AM
Alright Its winter break and from the 22nd til the 28th I'll have a back up car. I'm all set to drop the tranny and change the throw out bearing and I even have a mechanically-inclined friend to help. Is there anywhere I could find a good step by step write-up of how to do this. A video would work too. I have the factory repair manual but I can't find anything called a throw-out-bearing only a "clutch release cylinder"

I'm LOW ON TIME so any help would be appreciated especially since I'll have to order the part very soon. Thanks

DSM4LIFE-AWD
12-19-2011, 11:59 AM
:rofl:

Here's your FAQ:

When you'll be able to remove the clutch let it there and remove the TOB.

You're welcome ;)

2LiterRiceEater
12-20-2011, 06:53 AM
Removing the tranny isn't as hard as it sounds... jack the car up so you can comfortably work underneath it, rest it on safety stands. Take off wheels. Drain transmission. Remove however many of the 54587329507293487 million balljoints 2G's have to be able to pop out the axles a few inches out of the trans. Remove any crossmembers if needed. Remove intake, shifter linkages, battery, etc. Anything that gets in the way from the top. Unbolt from trans, remove engine mount(s), and usually one person over top and over under is all that's needed to pull it off and lower to the ground.

FormulaDz92
12-26-2011, 03:12 PM
thanks 2LiterRiceEater that's very helpful. If i can get over the flu me and my friend will start on it tomorrow. I'm just looking over the directions on how to do it one last time.

FormulaDz92
12-30-2011, 07:26 PM
Alright I did some work yesterday. It's going slowly but at least by taking my time there's less of a chance I'll do something stupid.

So far I've: removed the battery, intake, wheels, interior(but not shift linkages yet), and drained the trans fluid.

Here's pictures

FormulaDz92
01-15-2012, 10:52 AM
Alright I've got the bell housing off the car but I'm having a little difficulty getting the clutch out of it. I understood that it was supposed to slide right out. What am I doing wrong?

sidenote: I'm very pressed for time and I need this whole thing back together by tomorrow so a quick answer would be appreciated

FormulaDz92
01-15-2012, 11:45 AM
Alright now that I've got my old clutch out I can see that the old one and new one look different. Should I worry about this? I'm going to go ahead and just install it. I just hope its not a big deal. The TOBs are identicle.

FormulaDz92
01-28-2012, 12:22 PM
Trans is back on but i ran into some major problems when trying to bolt the flex plate to the pressure plate: only 2 bolts will ever line up simultaniously. See my other thread for more details.

http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=236313&highlight=

FormulaDz92
01-28-2012, 05:56 PM
Problem solved :)

2LiterRiceEater
01-28-2012, 11:08 PM
Glad to hear you got it solved :)

FormulaDz92
02-10-2012, 10:39 AM
Yeah the car is running great now. No issues at all. I've pretty much broken the clutch in with about 350 miles of city/suburban driving. Only thing is i need ti replace an axle now because i popped an axle boot (covers the CV joint). only about $77 tho.

Also I just bought a 1989 rust free 240sx :)

DSM4LIFE-AWD
02-10-2012, 12:57 PM
You can replace the boot my friend. Cost like 20$ with everything you need :)

FormulaDz92
02-12-2012, 03:16 PM
I talked to Paramus Mitsubishi and they said that replacing the boot would take a lot longer and unfortunately I don't have much time to get this thing fixed so i just went ahead and bought the axle. I plan on doing that sometime this week. btw around here i can't find a boot unless its from a dealer and they're more expensive than that.

Here's a pic of the new car.

DSM4LIFE-AWD
02-13-2012, 07:23 AM
LoL what a lazy ass ... Replacing the boot take something like 10 minutes once the axle is out. They are every-where in part store like auto-zone or Napa. You just been rip off by your mechanic like every-one who deal with a mechanic :rofl:

See, that's one reason why you're not ready for a turbo car.

FormulaDz92
02-13-2012, 08:02 PM
LoL what a lazy ass ... Replacing the boot take something like 10 minutes once the axle is out. They are every-where in part store like auto-zone or Napa. You just been rip off by your mechanic like every-one who deal with a mechanic :rofl:

See, that's one reason why you're not ready for a turbo car.

Not sure if you're trying to be a dick or not but you are probably right about the turbo car part. I'm too preoccupied and lacking in common sense to have a turbo car at this point. As for the other thing the dealer I went to wasn't my mechanic and neither was the parts store that I tried(the store was a pro-stock store). I probably should have just tried NAPA or autozone before giving up and next time research it further. Oh well what's done is done.

Just sort of a mental/literal note to myself:
Got to do in the next week or so:
Install Axle
Get a new suspension bolt(old one seems stripped)
Figure out while a stupid check engine light came on(O2?)
Make sure everything is tight.
Install some new exhaust gaskets
Put all of interior back together.
Fix that squeaky acessory belt that is driving me fucking nuts.
Bleed clutch + fill with more clutch fluid(see if it get back to its old strength)

*I'm sure this will take more than a week but hopefully the important stuff will be done my then.

DSM4LIFE-AWD
02-14-2012, 12:26 AM
Sorry bro, didn't wanted to sound like a dick ... Just wanted to point your mechanic for not saving you money since he didn't wanted to replace the boot and I know you can work. Once you'll have it in your hand take a look to see what the job would have been just for fun.

FormulaDz92
02-28-2012, 05:50 PM
...yeah so i couldn't for the life of me get the axle nut off. I've only had sundays to do it and so far I've failed twice. The first time because I didn't have a socket that was a 32 mm. The second time because dispite using a 2 ft. breaker bar, and an aditional 2 ft extension for leverage...and standing on it...AND pushing down from the ceiling the bolt did not give way. It should also be mentioned that I used an absolute $#it ton of pB Blaster.

So I just went out to Home Depot to buy a 6 ft pipe that I can use as more leverage. Oh and after geting angry and jumping on said bar the rectangular part that goes into the socket part broke right off the breaker bar. Luckily it had a lifetime warranty on it. So can't wait until next fricken sunday to fix that. I did change the oil today though so thats a plus. I was about 1000 miles overdue but no real stress was put on it in any of those 4000 miles and it was mobil one synthetic. Still wish I hadn't done it. It was the first time I've ever changed it with more than 3000

And DSM4LIFE-AWD don't worry about it

DSM Rook
02-28-2012, 06:02 PM
Yea, if you've never had that axle out, the nut and axle stub is probably seized together in the hub. When this happens guys will go buy a knuckle and hub assembly. I would return the axle. Order a boot kit from Rock Auto and try to do the boot in the car (guessing its an outter one?) You maybe able to seperate the upper ball joint, undo your brake line from the knuckle. Cut the boot off, using a block of wood and hammer, hammer the inner joint thats on the axle off. Clean out the greese as best as you can. Put new greese in, slide the new boot and clamps on the axle. Push the joint back on. Put your clamps on and save for a knuckle/hub-bearing incase that axle or wheel bearing go bad.

FormulaDz92
02-29-2012, 08:15 PM
Yeah but I literally only have one day each week to try to get this done. Maybe like 5 hrs total. And take into account that it took me several WEEKS just to change a clutch. At this point I don't want the CV joint seizing on me. Especially since I have no back up car at the moment and I have to drive into Newark every day. I pretty much assumed that time has run out to save the joint and a new axle is needed either way now. As for the hub I'm going to try again with the new bar and another ton of PB Blaster. I'd like to drive the cheaper way but it'll prob take more than a day(for me) and that is all I have and I need the car first thing in the morning.

btw its the boot closest to the trans on the drivers side. not the one by the hub.

FormulaDz92
04-06-2012, 12:10 PM
Car is working. I've got another bad idle pulley though. That makes three so far: the first one which lived a good life, the second which was defective and a third which was just put in with a new acessory belt has again started to squeak. My car has quite an apetite for them i guess.

FormulaDz92
04-16-2012, 05:55 PM
Changed my first headlight yesterday :). Anybody know how to adjust it so that the beam is pointed more down? One of mine is pointed straight in the air. I could always use the search button...naaaah that'd just be crazy

FormulaDz92
05-13-2012, 11:16 AM
Summer Plans:
-Fix Rust
-Fix AC compressor
-Fix tear in front bumper
-Have all Patches/scratches fixed
-Replace Old Springs, Shocks etc.
-New Headliner :(
-Rob bank to replace money spent on stupid expensive headliner(haha jk)
-?New Sunroof?

Also need to sell/give away a 2G Door, Hatch, and low rise wing. Oh and stock flexpipe.

FormulaDz92
07-31-2012, 08:57 PM
AC Fixed
Tear in bumper zip-tied up tight
Everything Else will be as-is when I sold it

Replacement: 2005 Civic EX Coupe w/110 mi. Hatch Sold
Still have a load of other stuff like tails, flexpipe, and wing

FormulaDz92
07-31-2012, 09:56 PM
Check Out the paint job I did on the old RS wheels by the way

Needless to say there is a Before pic and an After

FormulaDz92
03-13-2013, 07:29 PM
Here's a pic of the wheels on the car. Its kinda crappy if I get a better one Ill change it. They're definitely an improvement but they still look too small for the car.

Also I have since replaced my eclipse with a 2005 civic then changed my mind and decided to keep the eclipse. One bit of rust should be fixed by tomorrow.

FormulaDz92
03-17-2013, 01:53 PM
k

FormulaDz92
04-08-2013, 09:55 PM
Pics of rust repair and other small bodywork coming soon

bettfootball
04-08-2013, 10:47 PM
The wheels definately look a lot better! Interested in how you did with the rocker rust repair.

If it doesn't come out perfect, always the idea of throwing some 2ga/2gb talon/eclipse sideskirts on it.

FormulaDz92
04-10-2013, 04:39 PM
Yeah my idea exactly. But for some strange reason people come up to me and say they like my car a lot without the side-skirts. Personally I like the 2Ga Talon skirts and the 2Gb Eclipse skirts always look good.

I fixed the minor whole with fiberglass and bondo. Its not a great job but its my first real bodywork job so considering it came out fairly well. The bad side is getting welded

FormulaDz92
04-30-2013, 09:58 PM
Here's some pics finally

FormulaDz92
08-17-2013, 07:47 PM
Thinking about tackling the other side soon when my welder is fixed. Compared to this side the other one is a nightmare probably a square foot of metal is gone in the rear rocker area. 240 is still eating up my time since its too loud to pass NJ inspection. Putting new flange on that to stop an exhaust and hopefully sound leak.

FormulaDz92
11-06-2013, 09:22 AM
Welder is still not working. The regulator on it crapped out. I'm in the process of sanding down, wire brushing, and grinding the rust off the other side, then Anti-rust paint, then rivet on an ugly plate over it and seal with seam sealer, then paint, 2Gb side skirts and a coat of plasti-dip for the whole car and I'm done. Pics will come in a bit

BISHILVR
11-06-2013, 11:10 PM
In for pics.

FormulaDz92
11-13-2013, 08:55 AM
Soon. Not quite done wire brushing/ grinding but I already have the rivets and the new plate. Rust is always worse than you think.

FormulaDz92
12-04-2013, 11:14 PM
Just ordered the pro car kit from DipYourCar.com. Plans for winter break:
new ignition coil and spark plug wires( the rubber is starting to rip on the old ones)
Spray entire car with navy plasti-dip with a black base coat to protect it from the elements
Fix what sounds like lifter noise coming from inside the valve cover
seal exhaust leaks w/ new gaskets
fix all oil leaks
plasti-dip summer rims in bright white

Spring Break:
Megan Racing EZ street coil overs since my shocks are shot anyway

FormulaDz92
01-06-2014, 06:04 PM
Entire car dipped with Navy blue plastidip from dipyourcar.com, MSD ingnition coil and spark plug wires installed, rust removed, sealed, and steel plate riveted on to cover it up.

lazylaser
01-06-2014, 06:43 PM
Here's some pics finally

Nice job getting the rust cleaned up, where did you get the patch panels/metal for the repair?

Entire car dipped with Navy blue plastidip from dipyourcar.com, MSD ingnition coil and spark plug wires installed, rust removed, sealed, and steel plate riveted on to cover it up.


I like the color, what did it cost you total to dip? Any tips having done it? Any really tough part?
I saw you talked about it earlier, but the gsx sideskirts I think would complete the car.

FormulaDz92
01-09-2014, 02:01 PM
Nice job getting the rust cleaned up, where did you get the patch panels/metal for the repair?

I like the color, what did it cost you total to dip? Any tips having done it? Any really tough part?
I saw you talked about it earlier, but the gsx sideskirts I think would complete the car.

1. The patch panel is actually from an old supply shelf, its probably about 2.5 mm thick. It was much harder to bend than I anticipated but I got it done. If I could do it again I would have used a lighter metal. This just happened to be free and readily available.

2. The Pro Car Kit cost me roughly $400 in total. I did buy it on cyber wednesday and I selected the option to customize my kit with 4 gallons, and a respirator. The exact mix is 1/4 gallon matte black to 1 gallon matte navy blue. I also did a completely black base coat to make the navy come out darker(instead of just painting over white). In total i only ended up using 2 and 1/4 gallons since the car is so small. If you decide to do it to your car definitely get no more than 3 gallons. Basic colors run ~$50 per gallon

*also if you choose to do it I recommend removing your wing and door mirrors and painting them separately. And layer on the coats nice and thick for the best finish. And don't forget to razor all your edges before peeling.

FormulaDz92
01-12-2014, 11:21 PM
*This is something between a rant, an explanation and a plan. Please excuse the poor grammar, structure and spelling. I'll post a better explanation in the morning*

Alright I need to just get this out on "paper" cause then maybe I will be able to understand the problem better. Way back when I bought my car it was running fine and the only problems it had were that the CD player skipped(factory 6 CD changer) and that there was a small oil leak from the valve cover gasket. Of course I got both of these things taken care of and I enjoyed my car for about 8 months - 1 year with no problems.

The next problem that came up was a squeak from my belts. It turned out it was the belt with my PS, idler pulley, and tensioner pulley. My mechanic(I didn't do much work on my car then) tightened it and I was happy. Then one month later same problem with the same solution and I go on my merry way. AGAIN almost one month later the squeak is back, and this time my mechanic tells me it must be the belt(which I hadn't changed). Again it runs for a while, then squeaks, then tightened etc. etc.

Next new part in the cycle becomes the idler pulley which is changed 2-3 times along with the belt. Next the power steering pulley is replaced, same story; it runs nice for a while, then more high pitched squeaking which sounds almost like a cricket being tortured. At this point the belt has been one of those minor annoyances that I am confident will soon be fixed. This is not the case.

A while later (about a year ago) I decide to take a more analytical approach and try to see 1. Where the squeak is actually coming from 2. What causes it and when it starts 3. If there's any visible signs of the belts or pulleys being damaged. (1. Definitely from the accessory belt, 3. No sign of damage to the belt or pulleys on quick inspection)

2. What I began to notice is that the squeak seems to really begin during or after it has rained or during times of extreme humidity or when the car is left outside or in a damp garage. Later during the winter I also notice that it squeaks more as the days get colder. After learning how to tighten and loosen the belt myself I find that like my mechanic I can make the squeak go away but also like my poor mechanic it is NEVER permanent.

*Let me just add at this point that I love my car very much. I spent plenty of time picking it, a lot of my hard-earned money maintaining it and trying to improve it, and a lot of time working on it. That said it really does test your love for something when it continues to squeak and scream like a banshee when you go to pick up your girlfriend and friends and you are forced to deal with the looks that say "wow this crapbox is what you waste your time and money on"

Anyway since winter has began I have been noticing that not only does my car squeak during wet and cold days(at which time I loosen or tighten the belt to counteract the belt stretching or contracting due to temperature) but that is now has both a high and lower pitched squeak/ squeal.

Now the car seems to be pretty good when the weather and the garage are dry as the belt is now adjusted to not squeak in cold weather. But, if there is a little water on the roads or a puddle in the garage the squeak starts right up and with no exaggeration lasts for up to 5 days even if those days are both cold and dry.

Now onto the important part, the plans for fixing this incredibly exasperating problem;

1. Find plastic trim caps for the holes in the front bumper where the side mount intercoolers would get their air in either of the turbocharged models
2. Fabricate a plastic plate for the underside of the front of the car to prevent spray from the highway from kicking up and getting the belts wet that way.
3. Keep garage extremely dry by using a fan to keep the floor dry and humidity down.
4. If steps 1-3 fail, replace each pulley one by one leaving plenty of time on the road in between to rule out the possibility that that pulley is the culprit. Also the belt can be replaced and inspected at this point.
5. Make sure that no engine fluids are dripping on the belt causing it to become wet that way and if they are, re-route the hoses to direct them away from the belts.
6. Check the brackets that the pulleys rest on for evenness or damage/excessive wear and replace as necessary.
7. Give up, throw things, curse, question your own existence, and ponder weather on not the car may be possessed by the devil himself.

BISHILVR
01-13-2014, 10:57 PM
Try a new crankshaft pulley and a new belt.

FormulaDz92
01-15-2014, 06:02 PM
Belts been replaced 3 times(I use NAPA belts) and looks to be in good condition. Why do you say crank pulley first as apposed to the PS, AC, Idler or tensioner pulleys?
I ask because I just picked up a idler pulley an hour ago.

lazylaser
01-15-2014, 08:30 PM
This may help you locate things. http://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics-stethoscope-41966.html

And If it came down to the worst (if you have money to throw at the car) I would replace the PS pump, sometimes that shaft seal on those bad boys go and PS fluid leaks down onto the pulley which then gets on the belt. IDK, but if you're at you whit's end its worth a shot.:dunno:

BISHILVR
01-16-2014, 12:20 AM
Belts been replaced 3 times(I use NAPA belts) and looks to be in good condition. Why do you say crank pulley first as apposed to the PS, AC, Idler or tensioner pulleys?
I ask because I just picked up a idler pulley an hour ago.

The crank pulley has the least amount of belt wrap and the highest load on it of all pulleys, the wear is the highest on the crank pulley due to occasional belt slippage and just plain frictional wear, also the crank pulley is the pulley closest to the ground where water can get to it, allowing a higher chance at a belt slipping on it if its not 100%.

FormulaDz92
01-16-2014, 11:24 AM
Ok thanks for the full explanation. I'm going to return the idler and get that one instead then.

CrackedDSM
01-16-2014, 11:49 AM
I'm sorry for your troubles, but number seven made me lose it. :rofl:



It's something you'll get used to, being a DSMer. Little small issues that will straight up drive you batshit insane. It doesn't get any better with a turbo DSM, in fact it actually gets worse. You should get a turbo DSM just to appreciate the little small issues that your N/T gives you. You'll quickly realize "holy hell this is nothing". :P

FormulaDz92
01-17-2014, 03:48 PM
I'm sorry for your troubles, but number seven made me lose it. :rofl:



It's something you'll get used to, being a DSMer. Little small issues that will straight up drive you batshit insane. It doesn't get any better with a turbo DSM, in fact it actually gets worse. You should get a turbo DSM just to appreciate the little small issues that your N/T gives you. You'll quickly realize "holy hell this is nothing". :P

Yeah besides cost the main reason I went with a 1st gen 240sx instead of going to a turbo DSM for my second car is the reason you just gave. I will definately get a GST or GSX down the road. I just don't think I'm mentally or emotionally prepared for the headache yet. haha

FormulaDz92
02-03-2014, 08:08 AM
Clutch master died last weekend. Cost me $265 to have it replaced along with the slave. Also I have an opportunity to pick up an '04 Mini Hardtop 5 Speed with very low miles for about 4 or 5 grand from a friend whose the original owner.

MyBoostedGST
02-03-2014, 02:18 PM
I just moved a mini around the dealership parking lot that I work at. I wouldn't wish that interior on my worst enemy.

FormulaDz92
02-11-2014, 08:46 PM
Haha because its so corny right? Because I don't think an interior could have more hard, rattley plastics than an eclipse. Plus bmw makes the mini so I assume it will be good quality and last long

BISHILVR
02-12-2014, 06:49 AM
Haha because its so corny right? Because I don't think an interior could have more hard, rattley plastics than an eclipse. Plus bmw makes the mini so I assume it will be good quality and last long

:dunno: Have you not ridden in or driven any American branded vehicle from the last couple of decades? the Dsm is like a cadillac in comparison to any of that garbage, and the European vehicles are gaining momentum, the sled ride to h3ll is picking up speed over in Germany.

FormulaDz92
02-15-2014, 12:41 PM
I barely ever ride in American cars. My family has gone from a tercel to a volvo to a VW bus to a subaru and I have had the mitsu, a civic (that sucked) and my 240. I have to say the 240 interior is much less rattley the the eclipse and that's an '89.

And to clarify what you're saying is that European cars are getting more hard plastics in the interior? I'll check the Mini's interior out but from riding along on a test drive in one a long time ago it seemed pretty nice and premium in there minus the gimmick-y gauges.

Also my friend is trying to talk me into getting an old XJ Jeep cause he's missing his old lifted Wrangler which got 13 mpg haha