My finished 2g Project. [Archive] - DSM Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum: DSMtalk.com

: My finished 2g Project.


1995gsteclipse
12-30-2010, 01:01 AM
After braking the original 7 bolt engine and 2 used 6bolt engines, I decide to do a rebuild, with some info and a little of experience that I have, I thought that it was time for me to move on to the next step of my learning skills, so I start my project, Because of a short budget I did all stock, the only different thing is, removed balance shaft, ARP stads all bottom and cometic head gasket, so now that engine was out I decide to do some adjustments to my engine bay and wire tack so here we go.
This is my old engine before I removed it.

1995gsteclipse
12-30-2010, 01:12 AM
After removing the engine I sent the block to get hot tank, resurface well you know all the goodies, I also send the head to get resurface hot tank pressure test and valve check to make sure that they seal well.
Here is a pic of the block half way done.

Speedemon636
12-30-2010, 01:37 AM
Looks good! I like the glossy black.:cool: Where did you send the parts off to have them heat soaked and machined?

1995gsteclipse
12-30-2010, 01:58 AM
There is a machine shop at San Jose CA. called CLARK'S Parts and Machine Shop.
They are a little pricey and actually this shop was not really trustful but I am just knowing the area here so I don't know any shop around.
Here is another pic with head bolt it on.

1995gsteclipse
12-30-2010, 11:11 AM
Once the motor been out of the car I realized how bad was my engine bay so I start taking all that rusty stuff of and making some sanding all around, so I sand everything and filling all holes that I was not going to used.
Here are some pics of the rusty areas and hot I am preparing the erea to get paint.

1995gsteclipse
12-30-2010, 01:22 PM
Here is the engine bay Painted and almost ready to drop the engine in.

gostlrs
12-30-2010, 04:49 PM
Looks good. I found a gut local who will do a shave and a tuck for around 500-600 so once I get my engine out off to him it will go

1995gsteclipse
12-30-2010, 06:47 PM
Looks good. I found a gut local who will do a shave and a tuck for around 500-600 so once I get my engine out off to him it will go


Why don't you do it?.
Is not that hard, just move everything down so is not on the view, and at the same time you get some experience.
I have my car for 7 years now, and 2 years ago I start working on it, that's why I decide to do the rebuild myself and remodel the engine bay.
Most of the mechanics they don't care about the engine bay and scratch the paint every time they use a tool, that makes me think on learning to work on it and keep it as nice as I want it.

1995gsteclipse
01-03-2011, 02:28 AM
Here are some pics with the engine dropped in.

2ndgen-eltalon
01-03-2011, 09:08 AM
Looks Great man, Glad to hear you got it done. Now how does it run, is this a DD or just a fun car? Either way man good stuff on learning some new skills.

Gamble
01-03-2011, 09:30 AM
You should be running a sealed catch can if you are running it from the valve cover to the intake.

1995gsteclipse
01-03-2011, 04:56 PM
You should be running a sealed catch can if you are running it from the valve cover to the intake.


Nahaa. I would say that you mean to be catch can sealed for the idle problem (wright). But I have no problem with the idle, and I am so peaky about it, I like the stock style, (smooth). as smooth as it can get,,, so far it is been nice, and about the car, It is my (DD).

Gamble
01-04-2011, 08:35 AM
Not for the idle problem, but it's the proper way. You go vented can if you run it through the pcv valve. Sealed if you run it the way you are.
You are going to run into problems later down the line. This may act like a boost leak and it WILL throw off your airFlowPerRev would could give you tuning issues.

1995gsteclipse
01-04-2011, 10:52 AM
Not for the idle problem, but it's the proper way. You go vented can if you run it through the pcv valve. Sealed if you run it the way you are.
You are going to run into problems later down the line. This may act like a boost leak and it WILL throw off your airFlowPerRev would could give you tuning issues.


I know what you are saying, But isn't that set up for a (truk) car?, Because my car is a DD.
I have no problems with my set up, I have a valve inside the pcv hose that opens when air sucks in but closes when boosting, air is not getting inside the crank case while boosting, so air is vented only for the Crank case when boosting, besides that, It has a (Ball Bearing) inside the (oil filter) can, that keeps shot when idling and opens when high air pressure.

Gamble
01-04-2011, 11:03 AM
I give up.

Octane
01-04-2011, 01:15 PM
Good honest effort gamble.

1995gsteclipse
01-04-2011, 02:01 PM
I don't see anything wrong with my set up, I don't know why you are saying that it is not the wright way to do it!!!!.
I have seen a lot of DSM with the same set up, without running Density, I have seen them running with the stock MAF.

Gamble
01-04-2011, 02:19 PM
Just because you have seen it done on another car doesn't mean it's right.
I see honda's that look like crap all the time, so is that the right way to do it?
Copying someone is not the right way because not many people know the right way.

gtsiawd96
01-04-2011, 02:43 PM
http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=9365&d=1293695913

I have never seen a tensioner on a 6 bolt with the eccentric rotated this way before. Usually all the T-belts I have done the 2 dowel holes on the pulley are at or near horizontal when properly tensioned. It seems like who ever put the belt on rotated the eccentric pulley counter clockwise, instead of clockwise like the manual states.

1995gsteclipse
01-04-2011, 03:00 PM
Just because you have seen it done on another car doesn't mean it's right.
I see honda's that look like crap all the time, so is that the right way to do it?
Copying someone is not the right way because not many people know the right way.


OK, you said that I should run a sealed can, But what if there is too much boost, It will carry oil back to the intake, doesn't?.. because even with the catch can been there it will flow a little bit of oil to the intake when high boost. Isn't?.
On another hand, You are wright, I have this set up because I have seen it, not because It is the wright way, and seriously I did no search if this was the best set up for my Mod, I just copied from a dsm. I don't know a lot about PCV system and all that, But I will do some search to have knowledge on how it works, all what I know is that with being vented it will flow more air out of it and will avoid some gasket leaks.

Gamble
01-04-2011, 03:12 PM
OK, you said that I should run a sealed can, But what if there is too much boost, It will carry oil back to the intake, doesn't?.. because even with the catch can been there it will flow a little bit of oil to the intake when high boost. Isn't?.
On another hand, You are right, I have this set up because I have seen it, not because It is the right way, and seriously I did no search if this was the best set up for my Mod, I just copied from a dsm. I don't know a lot about PCV system and all that, But I will do some search to have knowledge on how it works, all what I know is that with being vented it will flow more air out of it and will avoid some gasket leaks.

You don't have boost in your intake pipe or the can. You are learning about the pcv all wrong.
There is good info here
http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=177223&highlight=catch+setup

1995gsteclipse
01-04-2011, 03:15 PM
http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=9365&d=1293695913

I have never seen a tensioner on a 6 bolt with the eccentric rotated this way before. Usually all the T-belts I have done the 2 dowel holes on the pulley are at or near horizontal when properly tensioned. It seems like who ever put the belt on rotated the eccentric pulley counter clockwise, instead of clockwise like the manual states.

Does the T-belt that you use is a 1g or a 2g?, and is it in a 1g or 2g car? Because if I remember you can use a 1g or 2g T-belt isn't?. the only deference is that one is little bigger than the other but both fit and they have to be tight up different. I have read that you can't use a timing belt T-belt (TOOL) on a 2g car with a 1g T-belt, unless that you use a modified 2g T-belt arm.
Please correct me if I am wrong.

gtsiawd96
01-04-2011, 03:42 PM
I personally have done them all 1g/2g/and 1g in a 2g and followed the factory manual for setting. But in your case you should have 6bolt engine,1g tensioner, 1g tensioning arm on a 2g bracket. The T-belts are all one part number there are no 1g/2g belts.

Stolen from BLcknspooln,

"1g - tension by rotating pulley clockwise
2g - tension by rotation pulley counter-clockwise

Tensioning clockwise or counterclockwise is not dependent of the type of engine you have, but rather the type of tensioner ARM you have. Of course stock 6 bolts will usually have the 1g arm and 7 bolts will usually have the 2g arm; but 6 bolt swapped 2g's will usually use a 1g tensioner arm with a 2g bracket. In this case, rotate CLOCKWISE to tension the belt and use a 1g pulley."

1995gsteclipse
01-04-2011, 04:17 PM
I personally have done them all 1g/2g/and 1g in a 2g and followed the factory manual for setting. But in your case you should have 6bolt engine,1g tensioner, 1g tensioning arm on a 2g bracket. The T-belts are all one part number there are no 1g/2g belts.

Stolen from BLcknspooln,

"1g - tension by rotating pulley clockwise
2g - tension by rotation pulley counter-clockwise

Tensioning clockwise or counterclockwise is not dependent of the type of engine you have, but rather the type of tensioner ARM you have. Of course stock 6 bolts will usually have the 1g arm and 7 bolts will usually have the 2g arm; but 6 bolt swapped 2g's will usually use a 1g tensioner arm with a 2g bracket. In this case, rotate CLOCKWISE to tension the belt and use a 1g pulley."


I don't know if I used my new 1g T-belt or my new 2g T-belt.
I didn't pay attention on which T-belt I used. But, Now that you mention,
It means that I am using a 2g T-belt wright.

Gamble
01-04-2011, 04:36 PM
The t belts are the same.

1995gsteclipse
01-04-2011, 06:27 PM
The t belts are the same.


Timing Belt is the same, But how about the (Timing Belt T-Pulley).
My old one had a blue line and this one has a red line.
I compare both and one was bigger than the other. I don't remember which was bigger, all what I remember that they were not the same.

Gamble
01-04-2011, 06:49 PM
Idler pulley is the same. Tensioner pullies are different.

gtsiawd96
01-04-2011, 07:04 PM
The pulleys are different, different part numbers.

1g MD129355
2g MD182537

Apparently the backspacing is different between 1g/2g I have read. You should be using the 1g.

1990TalonFast
01-04-2011, 07:05 PM
I get excited when I see a shiny new build lol

1995gsteclipse
01-04-2011, 08:23 PM
The pulleys are different, different part numbers.

1g MD129355
2g MD182537

Apparently the backspacing is different between 1g/2g I have read. You should be using the 1g.

When I installed the pulley I remember that it hits when turning to tight up the belt, and when turning to the opposite direction it clears really nice, so I left it that way... Never knew why it hits but I thought that was made on purpose to turn it to the wright direction.

Gamble
01-04-2011, 08:38 PM
The pulleys are different, different part numbers.

1g MD129355
2g MD182537

Apparently the backspacing is different between 1g/2g I have read. You should be using the 1g.

The other pulleys are the same.

gtsiawd96
01-04-2011, 08:43 PM
The other pulleys are the same.

Sorry gamble correct, the idler pulleys are the same eccentric tensioning pulleys are different.

I started to respond before you responded, walked away from the computer and finished my response after you had posted, lol.

DSM4LIFE-AWD
01-04-2011, 08:51 PM
Man this make me freak a bit, I need to check the pics in my build !

And by the way Gamble is wright about the catch can.

Edit: Just cheked mine and its nearly straight. Maybe 10 or 15 deg from the pics. Got a 7 bolts by the way.

gtsiawd96
01-04-2011, 08:57 PM
Usually everything seems fine, until the hydrualic tensioner starts to take up the slack for temp/belt stretch/wear/etc. and than pullies start rubbing.

1995gsteclipse
01-04-2011, 09:17 PM
Well, after of a little info. about pulleys and catch cans which I have learned. I will proceed to my project. After my fresh engine being drop in, is time to go to the next step, which is relocating the Fuse Box.
Here are some pics of my relocation.

1995gsteclipse
01-05-2011, 10:35 AM
Once I finish my Fuse Box, I order a rebuild kit for my turbo EVO 3. The turbo was bought from Road Race not long time ago, But, thought that rebuilding it now would be a better time to do it. so I don't have to be worry about the turbo late so, I went ahead to Rebuild it.

Gamble
01-05-2011, 10:49 AM
Don't forget that center bolt is reverse thread. :)

1995gsteclipse
01-05-2011, 01:30 PM
Don't forget that center bolt is reverse thread. :)



(BUMMER). Thanks Gamble for the advice, a little late but however I was able to figure it out after 10 minutes of struggling. But finally nut is off,
so I cleaned it up really nice and to be honest there were no dirty crap, so it didn't take much time to rebuild it, so I put all back together and send it to get balanced and put a new NUT, because I crew up the one it had, well that was because of my inexperience, but never late to learn wright.

1995gsteclipse
01-05-2011, 06:35 PM
well, I should keep going, so here is a pic of my baby waiting to be put back together, so I got new OEM Struts and axles to put on,
By the way, I wanted to share my lowered Battery.

johnson512n28
01-06-2011, 05:51 PM
Looks great, bro!

...

** Takes a shot thinking of his upcoming first rebuild **

DSM Bud
01-06-2011, 06:44 PM
Lovin the build, props on the wire tuck my man!

1995gsteclipse
01-06-2011, 09:33 PM
Today, I was looking my engine bay area, and I decide to change my upper Intercooler pipe, I have seen those short route pipes and they looks nice... I search for that pipe, But most of them comes with all the kit for the intercooler, so It came to my mind to convert my own one in to short route, so if I ***** up, It wouldn't heart much.
I cut only the 90 dg. and cut it with enough space for the coupler to fit on, and put it wright after the Throttle elbow so it can change the angle of the rest of the pipe. I cut the end of the pipe as well to make it straight. Lucky my that it came up nice, I couldn't be more satisfy, the only extra parts that I used was a 1 U Bend pipe, 2 straight couplers. and 4 extra T Bolt Clamps. and that was it, the Blow off valve end up on a different angle but It doesn't bother me at all, I used a longer hose for now, but I will change it later, I just don't like how the hose looks like. (Crap).
ones that I was doing the clean up I open up a 4" hole for the filter, I am planing to put a 4" pipe to bring the Filter down in to the Fender.
So here is the beauty.

1995gsteclipse
01-06-2011, 09:54 PM
Here is a before and after.

1995gsteclipse
01-08-2011, 11:50 PM
After a day off, I hook up the HP-Lines and got everything nice and smooth.

qwqb
01-10-2011, 09:34 AM
wow nice work man! everything looks really great and clean

idkiliketurbos
01-10-2011, 11:02 AM
Car looks really nice. Good job with that car!

1995gsteclipse
01-10-2011, 01:09 PM
I got stuck in the power steering system, I have to convert a 6 AN fitting to a Nipple. I was wondering if any one knows what size is the power steering reservoir nipple so I know what adapter to use, Any help would be appreciated.

THANKS IN ADVANCE.

Gamble
01-10-2011, 01:26 PM
I hope you have some HIGH pressure lines.

1995gsteclipse
01-10-2011, 02:15 PM
I hope you have some HIGH pressure lines.



yes, It is a HIGH Pressure Line, with Teflon inner rated at 2000 psi.

1995gsteclipse
01-10-2011, 06:06 PM
Well after searching and not finding anything about reservoir nipple size. I got from a Hardware Store a 1/4 copper pipe which has almost the same thread of the 6AN fitting and screw it in, I put some Teflon on the thread to make it fit well and It worked, I think for now I will let it be like that while I find out the size of the reservoir nipple.

1995gsteclipse
01-11-2011, 01:55 PM
Finally, It fire up, but there is a little sound, like in between of the engine and the Transmission, the sound only comes out when accel, it does not comes at idle, But no matter how much I accel, the sound is the same, it does not sounds louder as accel. Wondering if it has to do with the Transmission,
I was trying to figure it out but no luck, I was thinking if it would be a loose bolt that is rubbing some metal, or something like that, the sound is like a diesel engine but is not that loud, if I accel from the front of the engine I can't hear it, unless I get my ear closer to the Transmission where the Clutch is located, I can't hear anything at the trans gear locations, it comes only at the clutch spot,a little towards the flywheel or the engine seal, I just notice that there is a drop of oil from the trans, I can't figure it out where it is coming from, is under the Axle but is not from the axle seal. Maybe is where the two peas of the trans meet, Trans has oil in it, and actually it sound like if it has no oil, I was going to bring the trans down but before that, What you guys think, Any suggestions, or should I just get it down,....

Gamble
01-11-2011, 09:14 PM
Hard to say. What clutch? Clutch chatter? Did you use red lock tight on the flywheel bolts?
Look under and make sure the flywheel cover isn't hitting anything.

1995gsteclipse
01-11-2011, 09:41 PM
It's an ACT 2600, Clutch with a street disk and Pre Light Flywheel, and no, I didn't use red lock on the flywheel bolts. But, I have blue lock, isn't the same?

DSM4LIFE-AWD
01-11-2011, 09:55 PM
No its not the same ... Red loctite got a higher streight. I don't think it would loose up that fast with blue but it say to use red in the manual.

FWD doesn't have the same flywheel cover as AWD. The FWD one cover everything since there is no transfer case. ;) Like Gamble said make sure there's nothing touching the flywheel.

Jmonet1620
01-11-2011, 10:07 PM
Did you use the tool that came with the clutch to align it properly?

1995gsteclipse
01-11-2011, 10:19 PM
Yes, I used the align tool to align the clutch and everything looked good, I had no problems at all when installing the Trans. Thus the clutch bolts need red lock tight as well?...

streaknby
01-12-2011, 11:53 AM
What throw out bearing did you use? Get someone to sit in the car while it idles and have them press and release the clutch, if the sound changes or comes and goes I would suspect that the throw out bearing is on its way out.

1995gsteclipse
01-12-2011, 12:42 PM
What throw out bearing did you use? Get someone to sit in the car while it idles and have them press and release the clutch, if the sound changes or comes and goes I would suspect that the throw out bearing is on its way out.



Now that you are tacking about the throw out bearing, I search and found this Thread, what you guys think, I don't remember exactly, but I be leave that I put the clip facing down towards the trans, and on this thread it says that it has to be facing up towards the trans.
Could this be the Problem?
Here is the Link.
http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=221175

Sorry the Bearing came with the ACT clutch from PRE.
I got all the package that comes with the ACT 2600 Clutch.

streaknby
01-12-2011, 01:34 PM
It is not necessary but it would be a good idea to use an OEM throwout bearing. As a rule they last longer. Yes it is possible that you have the clip backwards but that sound would also change when you depress and release the clutch.

DSM4LIFE-AWD
01-12-2011, 01:52 PM
Looks like it's time to remove the tranny again and place the clip this way !

http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo271/dsm4life-awd/Untitled-1.jpg

1995gsteclipse
01-12-2011, 01:53 PM
I just fire up my car and looked at it while was cold and heard the sound wright away, it is more loud when is cold, but the sound comes from the valve cover (LIFTERS). Ones it warms up, sound comes down, is almost impossible to hear, so I checked with a hose and start searching where exactly the sound comes from and it does come from the lifters, But checking only with my ears it sounds more in between the engine and tans.
it is crazy but, I am almost sure now that it is from the valve cover, any ways I will keep eye on it,
Thous any one have happen this?,,,,, It is really confusing, on my barely ears it is from the trans bell housing and with a hose or a pipe hearing it from the cover. .............(STRANGE).........

Gamble
01-12-2011, 01:59 PM
If you hold the revs to 3k for 20-30 seconds then let it idle for 20-30 seconds and repeat a few times it should quiet down the lifters.

DSM4LIFE-AWD
01-12-2011, 02:02 PM
You never hear of using a screw driver (or other type of shaft) to hear or listen where the sound come from ?

1995gsteclipse
01-12-2011, 02:09 PM
You never hear of using a screw driver (or other type of shaft) to hear or listen where the sound come from ?

I used a plastic hose!!!!!!!!!!!!.
Not a screw driver.!!!!!!!!!!!!

DSM4LIFE-AWD
01-12-2011, 02:25 PM
Never heard of using a plastic hose ... !?

Calm down and try with a flat screw driver on the valve cover while the engine rev. Then listen on the bell housing ... That's a tricks my old uncle gave me and it's more accurate than you think.

You better change that attitude if you want some help !!!

1995gsteclipse
01-12-2011, 02:36 PM
Never heard of using a plastic hose ... !?

Calm down and try with a flat screw driver on the valve cover while the engine rev. Then listen on the bell housing ... That's a tricks my old uncle gave me and it's more accurate than you think.

You better change that attitude if you want some help !!!


Sorry about the attitude DSM4LIFE-AWD. I THOUGHT IT WAS A JOKE, But (I have never heard about the screw driver), I will check that out and see if I can hear something, there is all ways something to learn.

DSM4LIFE-AWD
01-12-2011, 02:41 PM
Seriously just put the screw driver on the VC and put your ear at the other end. You'll see that it's not a joke ! ;)

Just like the Dalton do in Lucky Luck to see if a train is comming ... See it's not new from this year. :D

1995gsteclipse
01-12-2011, 03:05 PM
I just checked that out and yes, it is coming from the valve cover, it is interesting that screw driver, actually it is much the same with the hose but the sound is more solid with the screw driver, thanks for the advice.
So now that we figure it out, I am thinking on the clutch bearing pin that we discus before, should I just leave it along the way it is, or should I remove the trans and do the wright way,..... Seriously I am a little exhausted about the project and wouldn't like to remove that trans,, well at least not for now, I didn't use any kind of thread luck for the flywheel bolts, But wondering if I just drive it to brake the fresh motor and use it daily lets say 1 or 2 months but with out boosting it, and then bring down the trans and re do it the wright way.
what you guys think.

DSM4LIFE-AWD
01-12-2011, 03:19 PM
I would removed the tranny to do it the right way.

I know it suck to do things twice but you better be safe than sorry.

1995gsteclipse
01-13-2011, 10:41 AM
OK, now that I am going to take the Transmission down, was wondering if there is any place that sells a kit of bolts for the Transmission, Because my bolts are rusted, I clean them up when I opened the Transmission, But they got rusted again and is not long time ago, I like the shiny look from factory, I know, it is kind of ridiculous, but with my painted transmission and my painted engine and engine bay the rusted bolts are so notably, thous any one knows where to get them I would be interesting on all the set.

DSM4LIFE-AWD
01-13-2011, 11:51 AM
Go to the dealer for new one or just brush/clean them and clear your stock bolts.
I also refuse to put rusted bolts on fresh painted parts.

I can't believe how much time I have pass painting bolts but worth it at the end if you are looking for a clean looks ! :)

1995gsteclipse
01-13-2011, 01:59 PM
Go to the dealer for new one or just brush/clean them and clear your stock bolts.
I also refuse to put rusted bolts on fresh painted parts.

I can't believe how much time I have pass painting bolts but worth it at the end if you are looking for a clean looks ! :)



I did brushed them, and I was really happy the way they end up, but didn't put any clear on it,.... What kind of clear do you use?, how much time they last with the shiny look?, do you apply clear after you bolted on or before?, if that's before, thous the socket doesn't scratch the clear?.

DSM4LIFE-AWD
01-13-2011, 02:30 PM
I clear them before for sure. ;)

Don't really remember what kind of paint I used ... Well if you use a clean box and don't use an impact gun you should be fine.

I found this website for my ATV since I was tired of painting bolts ! ;)
http://www.alloyboltz.com/catalog/index.php

So is the tranny out of the car ?

1995gsteclipse
01-13-2011, 02:44 PM
No, The tranny still in the car, I was planing on getting everything before taking it out.
I have to disassemble the Tranny because is leaking, I don't know why I clean everything nice and apply that RTV sealant en between. Anyways, what kind of bolts did you use on the web, I might go with stainless, But What size are them?, well, I might bring one out and figure it out and count them as well, to see how many bolt and how long.

DSM4LIFE-AWD
01-13-2011, 04:07 PM
If you can, STAY with the stock bolts ! You have used rtv between tranny and block ?

What kind of bolt ? Dude you can use the one you want, different style for different people and application. But I would not use these bolts where stress is present like on suspension parts.

1995gsteclipse
01-13-2011, 04:23 PM
No, I didn't use rtv between the block and tranny, I used it in the tranny only, I opened it, to see how it was from inside, ones it was out why not to look at it and repair what it needs to be repaired, so I used rtv to assemble it back.
I was trying to get bolts for the tranny only. because when I assemble it there were so dirty that I had to brash them and took off all the shiny staff and got rusted. The tranny is leaking wright now so I have to disassemble it and redo the rtv again, so basically I was looking to change the Tranny bolts. (bolts to assemble the Tranny).

1995gsteclipse
01-15-2011, 03:51 PM
I did a boost leak test and fixed two of them But, I was curious.... My injectors are leaking from #4 and #2 they are leaking from the insulator (the ones between the head and the injectors,.. I can't make that leak to go away, I replaced them with OEM ordered from the dealer, I removed them and put them back 4 times, and no luck, I'm sure that I tight up that fuel rail really good, but no luck, no luck, I put some grease on the insulator and keeps leaking, I even clean up very well the bottom of the fuel rail where the plastic meet going toward the Head, and no luck ether thous any one knows what's going on?.
It came to my mind for one moment to sand the fuel rail where it seats to make the rail closer to the head and that way it pushes more the injectors towards the head so It can put some more pressure on the injectors, (WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK ABOUT THAT?).... Or is there any thicker ones out there (aftermarket).

Gamble
01-15-2011, 05:29 PM
What injectors do you have?
Try ones from FIC
http://www.fuelinjectorclinic.com/
And don't over tighten those bolts, they will snap. They are only like 15-20ft/lbs

1995gsteclipse
01-15-2011, 06:29 PM
What injectors do you have?
Try ones from FIC
http://www.fuelinjectorclinic.com/
And don't over tighten those bolts, they will snap. They are only like 15-20ft/lbs


I have RC 550 injectors.
Do I really have to change injectors?.
I have in my mind to move up to something bigger to boost up my evo 3,
But not at this time. (Running out of money due).
Any other advice!!!!!...

Gamble
01-15-2011, 08:59 PM
Sorry I meant to try seals from FIC.

1995gsteclipse
01-15-2011, 09:53 PM
Sorry I meant to try seals from FIC.

Which FIC kit will fit my RC 550?
There are 3 Kits for DSM. I would say # 3 doesn't.?

1.- Complete Seal Kit for FIC 125/6 DSM & Evo and 226 BlueMAX injectors.


2.- Complete seal kit for DSM/Evo 1600cc injectors

3.- Complete seal kit for DSM/Evo OEM injectors. (Does not fit FIC/BlueMAX injectors. Order kit SLK 125/6 x4 for FIC injectors.)

Gamble
01-15-2011, 11:09 PM
Email them.

tryingtobebest
01-16-2011, 05:16 PM
Nice project you have going here! Looks like you spend some time going all the way)))

1995gsteclipse
01-16-2011, 10:56 PM
Finally I took my Tranny out fixed my Flywheel bolts and fixed that safety arm pin thing, I found out that my leak was from the bolt that is closed to the Axle, I think that it is for the reverse gear or something like that, it is underneath the Tranny mount, (it was loose).
What a D######## I am. But tight it up and that was it, Bud, that I drain all the Tranny oil, so I have to put some more and fire up,
Day was too short to get some oil, but tomorrow will, and see how it looks,
also I clean all the bolts from the Tranny and it looked much better.
Tomorrow will let you guys know who it end up.

1995gsteclipse
01-16-2011, 10:59 PM
Nice project you have going here! Looks like you spend some time going all the way)))


Took me 5 months to get to where I am now.
Be leave me I am anxious to drive it,
It is my DD.

1995gsteclipse
01-20-2011, 05:09 PM
Updating my Project, I still getting a drip of transmission oil, I jack up the car and run it through all the gears, and I found out that it is leaking from the passenger axle seal.... How can this happens?. Both seals are new, the Driver side is clean no leaks, only on the passenger seal, what did I do wrong?, I insert the axle carefully...
well I guess now I have to replace the axle seal, But, can I just do something to the seal to make it work?, is there any method on how to fix the seal which is new, or should I just replace it!... any advice on what to do..

DSM Loki
01-20-2011, 05:13 PM
Gotta replace it. Sometimes the seals will just barely get nicked and that's enough to make them leak.

1995gsteclipse
01-20-2011, 05:39 PM
Do I really have to replace it.....
(BUMMER).
I am tired playing with the TRANNY, I put it on, two times and now this.....
UUHF,,,
I think that I have no choice now Ha.
Well, one last question really quick, I put 2ct and 1/2 of oil into the transmission, is this too much?. would it can cause the seal to leak?..
I have heard that 2 ct would be enough.

DSM Loki
01-20-2011, 09:15 PM
It takes about 2.5 quarts. You can do the axle seal without pulling the trans.

1995gsteclipse
01-20-2011, 11:22 PM
Is there any stuff to put on the seal or I should just put the seal in and that's it.

DSM Loki
01-21-2011, 03:50 AM
I usually put a little film of grease around the outside to ease installation. Make sure you drive it in straight and be careful not to damage it.

DSM4LIFE-AWD
01-21-2011, 08:44 AM
You better put a bit of oil on the seal or you will kink them for sure. Fixing your boost leak is not going to add any red loc-tite on your flywheel bolts !

Put your priority at the right place.

1995gsteclipse
01-21-2011, 10:49 AM
[QUOTE=DSM4LIFE-AWD;2328686]You better put a bit of oil on the seal or you will kink them for sure. Fixing your boost leak is not going to add any red loc-tite on your flywheel bolts !


What do you mean, I took off my Transmission and fixed my pin thing from the clutch, and at that time I add some loc-tilte on the flywheel bolts.
I Be leave that I mention that back on one of my post.
I did fixed my boost leaks except One that I steal waiting for my Injector seal kit. but once it get home It will be all set.
I never thought how many leaks I had,,, there were 5 leaks from the couples, and one from my WG feed line nipple that comes from my Turbo.
O and there was one from my BOV as well. (BUT ALL ARE FIXED).
So everything is going well, will update how the seal end up, Thanks for the help guys....

1995gsteclipse
01-24-2011, 01:37 PM
UPDATE.. I fixed my axle seal, I got an IFC injector seal kit and replaced my injector o rings, Now everything looks good.
Now I have to tune it, but because my old laptop stop working, I was wondering if a (MINI BOOK) could work with LINK. I would like to get a mini so I can keep it in the car. ( WOULD IT WORK).
My next step is making a cold air intake. I have looked a lot of them but haven't see one that full fill my ambition.
I was thinking on reusing my stock one but install it underneath and to use my original cooler intake air Duct, If I make one peace, the air duct and the top cover of the filter box, I think that it will look nice and clean. and rout it with a 4" pipe from the cold intake.
I just don't like how every one is doing it, just bringing the intake down with the KN filter.


This is one of my old picture, But you can see where is the pipe, I was planing on making a mold from the hole and bring it down to the original air box, and from the other side of the box, it will be straight to the air duct, so air will be pushed in to the box all the way to the turbo, I will just do a light hole on the lower position to drain dirt or water that
might get into the box.
What do you guys think.

Gamble
01-24-2011, 02:00 PM
UPDATE.. I fixed my axle seal, I got an FIC injector seal kit and replaced my injector o rings, Now everything looks good.
Now I have to tune it, but because my old laptop stop working, I was wondering if a (MINI BOOK) could work with LINK. I would like to get a mini so I can keep it in the car. ( WOULD IT WORK).
My next step is making a cold air intake. I have looked a lot of them but haven't see one that full fill my ambition.
I was thinking on reusing my stock one but install it underneath and to use my original cooler intake air Duct, If I make one peace, the air duct and the top cover of the filter box, I think that it will look nice and clean. and rout it with a 4" pipe from the cold intake.
I just don't like how every one is doing it, just bringing the intake down with the KN filter.


This is one of my old picture, But you can see where is the pipe, I was planing on making a mold from the hole and bring it down to the original air box, and from the other side of the box, it will be straight to the air duct, so air will be pushed in to the box all the way to the turbo, I will just do a light hole on the lower position to drain dirt or water that
might get into the box.
What do you guys think.

Told you the seals from FIC are mint. Yes you can use a netbook, I have an hp mini 1.6mhz atom proc (single core) 2gb ram and it works great.

No comment on the cold air just yet. If you are running a maf and make it, great then if you switch to SD you may be making it again. Figure out what you want to do first.

1995gsteclipse
01-24-2011, 02:33 PM
Told you the seals from FIC are mint. Yes you can use a netbook, I have an hp mini 1.6mhz atom proc (single core) 2gb ram and it works great.

No comment on the cold air just yet. If you are running a maf and make it, great then if you switch to SD you may be making it again. Figure out what you want to do first.


Thanks for the NoteBook, and the FIC seals Gamble.
Well I might missed explain, I was talking just for the air filter, which is connected with the cold intake, so I was trying to adapt the original box to the bottom of the car instead the cone filter, I do have the original MAF so if I decide to go SD It will work as well because it wi be hooked up by a 4" outlet. I can remove the cold intake and put a 4' pipe to the air filter outlet,
Basically is just converting my cone filter to the original scare filter.
I will post a pic of what I am talking about, I am not so good about explaining.

1995gsteclipse
01-25-2011, 11:41 PM
I just note is that I still have a drop of transmission oil under neath my car,
It is from the same axle seal, but why, It is an OEM seal from dealer,
I was so careful when put it in, It is not leaking as it was before, but still leaking, it is just a drop but don't like it. any other suggestion. I am desperate.

Sean485
01-25-2011, 11:45 PM
Is the axle shaft knicked?

1995gsteclipse
01-26-2011, 12:00 AM
Is the axle shaft knicked?


What you mean (knicked),
Haven't heard about axle shaft knicked.
Could you explain it to me.

Sean485
01-26-2011, 12:06 AM
Scratches or dents on the seal area of the axle shaft.

1995gsteclipse
01-26-2011, 12:14 AM
No, shaft is new, but I will check for that, any ways, I think that I have to pull it out, thanks for the advice.

1995gsteclipse
01-26-2011, 09:08 PM
Well, I will leave along the Axle Seal for now, ( my head is going to blow ).
I decide to leave that along which I am not driving it now, and move to my cold air intake mod.
Here are some pics of the process.

1995gsteclipse
01-27-2011, 04:59 PM
Here is all ready done.

1995gsteclipse
02-08-2011, 02:18 PM
Updating...
I got my axle leak fixed, thanks for the help,
I saw a leak on the turbo V band and had to pull it out, Dem, it was the turbo leaking from High oil Pressure, I removed my 4AN feed line from the filter housing and install a stock 1g line from the head which has a restrictor internal, after that the leak went away.
I am about to receive my Netbook and my ECMLink Cable which was bad and needs to be replaced, I will play with it and see what happens,
Thanks every one for the support on my project.

1995gsteclipse
05-14-2011, 06:18 AM
Updating....
I finally found a gsx.
The car was not working when I bought it, But after replacing the fuel pump and filter, Boom, It start wright up.
After driving it found out that, Transmission is bad, it make a bad noise, It sounds like a bad throw out bearing and 4th gear pops out, radiator is leaking and is from another car, They just fit it in there, The car was really bad, loose bolt all around the engine, leaks all over the place, dirty carpet, bad seats, etc, etc, etc.
I fixed every single thing, I am using it now and it drives well with out using the 4th gear, obviously I'm not forcing it at all.
The top paint of the car is really bad from the front all the way to the back (Hood, Roof, Trunk), and have some bends on the roof.
After waiting to find a good deal to get a gsx and sell my gst., now that I have it, I being looking at it and is bad, bad, bad decision, Because the car looks like is not being well care, and seriously, changing all the good stuff that I have in my gst to the gsx like MR2 Electric power steering system, seats, wideband, boost, oil gauges, engine, fuel system, etc, etc, etc,.... So I got to the conclusion on doing the GSX conversion.
I will convert my gst to gsx and the gsx to gst, so I can sell the gsx as a gst and get some money back.
I being reading and it doesn't looks to hard to do it, It seems the hardest part is to be swapping the rear Bolts for the rear end, so I start stripping down the car and open the holes to clear the bolts.
On my case, It will be more harder to do it, because not only will be a gsx conversion, but it will be a gst conversion as well, I have to take everything from the gst and put it on the gsx, so I have to do an extra hole to bring the 2 front bolts out of the gst and open another ones on the gsx to install the bolts, this is because the gst has only one bolt that aligns with the gsx (rear bolts), the other front bolts of the gst are on a different location of the gsx. All the conversions that I have seeing, they leave the front bolt on the gst and just install the front bolts of the gsx, But because I need the gst bolt to put it on to the gsx I have to take them out.
The gst has 8inch in between the front and rear bolt, which the gsx has around 12 or 14inch, I don't remember but is some where around, I will take measurements tomorrow and verify, I will put some pics as well to let you guys see how is the project going and understand better on what I am trying to say.

johnson512n28
05-14-2011, 03:43 PM
Exciting!