Clutch Pedal, Transfer Case Sweat Leak Problem [Archive] - DSM Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum:

: Clutch Pedal, Transfer Case Sweat Leak Problem

11-16-2001, 10:37 AM
Hi, I've got a 1996 Eagle Talon TSi AWD. Here are my problems...

I'll start with the transfer case since it's the easiest to explain.


Transfer case: Has anyone ever had a sweat leak on the transfer case localized between the tranny and the transfer case it self? The lube guy said the oil is from the transfer case.


Clutch pedal: This happened rather suddenly. I drove in the morning to work and the clutch pedal was fine, maybe shifting into first was a little notchy but when is a talon shifter never notchy. When starting the car to go home I pressed the clutch down and noticed that there was no resistance till about half way. Like a moron that I am I figured the car was cold and so that was natural (give me a break guys I've only had a Talon for about 2 weeks now). I tried to put the car into reverse and heard the familiar grinding gear noise I like to call CAR SCREAM. So I jammed it in there after pumping the clutch pedal a couple of times. Shifting is no problem once the car gets going but off the line is a real problem.

Things I did so far to try to fix the problem (thanks to good ol'Chilton)
1) Refilled the Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir to MAX (when engine is cold, not sure if that matters). When I refilled it with DOT 3 break fluid, recommended by owner's manual. I then noticed air bubbles comming up through the fluid from the hose inside the reservoir. GREAT!! BLEEDING IS NEEDED. Haven't gotten around to bleeding yet, will do tonight.

2) I examined the pedal and pedal assembly on the inside of the car and noticed that either water with dirt, oil, or really dirty break fluid was on the assembly. By passing my finger over the break assembly, I was able to conclude that the liquid was definitly not oil. It didn't have the consistency. Water would evaporate rather quickly so I'm assuming it's break fluid. My question to you, in this case is...

Where is the break fluid comming from if I find it on my clutch pedal on the inside of the car?

3) I examined the spring connecting the clutch pedal to some other metalic object (all of this is just under the dash/steering wheel on the inside of the car) and everything looks like new, even the spring.

What I noticed...

1) The clutch pedal feels like it has no resistance.
2) The clutch pedal no longer comes off the floor unless the spring pulls it up.
3) Hydraulic fluid is found on the clutch pedal assembly on the inside of the car (extremely small amounts, not enough to drip on the floor, hell it might not even be brake fluid, it could be dirty water).
4) Clutch pedal assembly metal parts including spring is new(these parts are the ones on the inside of the car and easily visible).

I don't know how old the slave is.

So how do I fix this problem (clutch pedal problem) going from cheapes to most expensive? Assuming all the work is done by myself.

11-16-2001, 11:05 AM
I would definately bleed the clutch before anything else. The brake fluid inside the car may not be brake fluid but instead a lubricant of some kind. I found some in various locations in my car. Just a thought. Let us know if bleeding works.

11-16-2001, 11:57 AM
Sounds like your clutch master cylinder is shot (that's where the brake fluid is coming from). Pull it out of the car, take the retaining spring off and remove the piston assembly. Inspect the inside of the cylinder for damage and wear. In most cases, buying a master cylinder rebuild kit (a new piston assembly) will do the trick - unless the cylinder walls are deeply scored (then you'd need to buy a new master cylinder). Good luck. :D

11-19-2001, 10:40 AM
But for how long is the question.

Ok folks! It turns out that the DOT 3 brake fluid inside my hydraulic clutch line was SOOOOOOO Old that as I was bleeding it, it looked like I was extracting rubber from the line. GROSE!!! There should be laws against the battering and mistreatment of DSM's to that degree... anyway I followed some advise on pulling back the boot on the SLAVE to see if fluid comes leaking out but as I pulled the boot back I noticed that the interior of the boot, plastics and all looked brand new so I figured that I should just bleed the line.

It took me 15 minutes to bleed the whole line and it's working fine now. The Chilton DSM repair book was really good for outlining the procedure.

Problem is that I still can't figure out how SOOOOO much air got into the line in such a short space of time. So TABOO I think you might be right about the clutch master cylinder. Maybe a seal is leaking but It's been a weekend and I haven't noticed any clutch performance difference. Only time will tell.

I'll repost on this thread if the problem arises again. At that point though a Master Cylinder clutch rebuild looks like the only solution. In any case I think maintaining the clutch is one of the easiest fix ups any DSM owner can do.

Thanks for the info guys,

Tom G

1996 Eagle Talon TSI AWD
K&N Airfilter
Turbo XS "to-the-atmosphere" BOV
Wish I had a picture... doh!