Carbon Fiber/Fiberglass Hoods [Archive] - DSM Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum:

: Carbon Fiber/Fiberglass Hoods

12-28-2001, 12:23 PM
Hey guys, I am considering purchasing a carbon fiber hood in the next month or so. I was wondering how installation is? Is it as simple as unbolting the old one and bolting the new one on? I have a friend who was in an accident and bought a hood off the trader and installed it himself and it was making noises, he finally took it to a body shop and they said he installed it wrong. So this got me to wondering. I am sure this is a pretty stupid question, but oh well :D

12-28-2001, 12:57 PM
I did a VFAQ for it... but my damned site is still down. The hood itself is 4 bolts to replace. Getting it to fit properly is a whole other story.

Matching up the body lines. Getting the hood straight is tough. With the bolts in, it will wiggle around. So before you do any other adjusting, get the body lines even.

Once the hood is straight, you need to adjust the height so that there is not a lot of gap between it and the bumper. This is where hood pins help. Definitely install hood pins. Raise and lower the rubber stoppers that sit right above the head lights to control where the edge of the hood sits. To pull it down in the center, raise and lower the hood pins.

If you need to, you can adjust the hood latch as well. On my car, I took the hood latch off and lengthened the bolt holes, so that the latch sat down lower. This pulled the hood down some more.

To drill holes in the hood for the pins - secure the pins to the frame by removing the inner pair of black rubber stoppers. Leave the outer pair there to control hood leveling. Put the pins in the hole where the inner rubber stoppers were. Once the posts are secure, lower the hood down onto them. Tap the hood down against them a few times and it will leave a mark on the inside of the hood.

Drill through the fiberglass skeleton first. Make the hole about the diameter of a quarter or so. Lower the hood to make sure that the post passes through it properly. Since the hood lowers at an angle, you have to make the holes a little wider to accomidate the angle of the post. Then do the tap thing again and drill through the carbon fiber for the second hole. This one you want to make as small as possible, but larger than the opening on the scratch plates that came with your hood pin kit.

That is about it, I think. :)

12-30-2001, 12:45 AM
Originally posted by ProjectGSX
I did a VFAQ for it... but my damned site is still down.

Brian any word when your site will be back up? Do you have a copy on your computer you could zip up and email to me or upload to the fourm (new option)? I would be very interested in seeing the vfaq. I have a black car and I was thinking about a hood that used the stock latch as I don't want a lot of attention, but it sounds like this might not be the best idea.....

12-31-2001, 01:28 AM



12-31-2001, 01:55 AM
Turn off your Caps Lock.

12-31-2001, 01:58 AM

I'm not yelling!!!



12-31-2001, 02:26 AM
Your not going to have a lot of people that like YOUR CAPS LOCK. Just friendly advise.

12-31-2001, 02:28 AM
Ok, look, i'm sorry, i was just tryin' to get a responce about a problem, not tryin' to make enemies or make issues, just answers... is that too much to ask?

12-31-2001, 08:00 AM
Originally posted by InsnImprtTSi
Ok, look, i'm sorry, i was just tryin' to get a responce about a problem, not tryin' to make enemies or make issues, just answers... is that too much to ask?

If you are going to throw around attitude, then yes, it is too much to ask. He simply said "Turn off your caps lock" and you responded in a very aggressive manner.

12-31-2001, 08:01 AM
Originally posted by SpicyTuna
Brian any word when your site will be back up?

I was told "by the end of the week", three weeks ago. So, no idea. I have the html for it.. I will see about posting it here. The FMIC instructions took about an hour to post, but this one isn't quite as long if I remember correctly.

12-31-2001, 12:05 PM
Originally posted by ProjectGSX
I was told "by the end of the week", three weeks ago. So, no idea. I have the html for it.. I will see about posting it here. The FMIC instructions took about an hour to post, but this one isn't quite as long if I remember correctly.

If you could I would really appreciate it...but I know your busy.

12-31-2001, 02:30 PM
OK, here goes.. should take about 6 Pages.

Hood Pin installation

Tools required:
Philips head screwdriver
Grinding Tool (Dremel, rounded file?)
Drilling Tool (Dremel, drill)
10mm Open ended wrench
10mm Socket wrench
Vice Grips

When it came time to install my hood pins (Mr. Gasket, purchased at a local auto parts store for 13$) I asked around but no one I could find had installed them before. This left me more or less in the dark although I think I did a very good job of getting them installed.

The first thing to do is decide where you want to mount the hood pins . The area needs to be relatively flat, and have good access to the underside of it so that you can tighten the bolts properly. I decided to remove the two rubber plugs just to the left and right of the hood latch and install the pins there.
The location is illustrated below, in a picture originally taken of the air filter. It also points out the outer rubber plugs that need to be adjusted so that the hood rests on them properly. To raise the plugs, turn them counter-clockwise. To lower the plugs, turn them clockwise.

To remove the rubber thingie, just unscrew it. Now you have a perfect size hole for your hood pin!

To place the hood pin, we are going to need access to the underside of that beam. First, remove the metal trim piece on top of the bumper. See below.

With that trim piece removed, start on the bracket that sits between the bumper and the beam where we are installing the pins. See below.

Now it's time to curse like a sailor. The final bolt to remove that bracket is a bit harder to get to. In order to reach it, you need to go in through the "mouth" of the front bumper, and reach up to the bottom of the bracket. The picture below is taken up into the bumper cover, while laying on my back. The final bolt is labeled.

12-31-2001, 02:33 PM
Once the bolt is removed, you can pull the bracket out. You will have to wiggle it around and pull it out at various angles since it is wedged in there. I found that it was easiest to pull it out from one side to the other, pulling back slightly on the bumper cover to allow it to come out. You will also have to work it around the hood safety latch as well. Once it is removed, pull out the two plastic body screws that hold the ducting in place. See below.

Next, pull the molding out from behind the hood latch. The stuff bends pretty easy and wont lose its shape, so don't be shy. The drivers side will be a little harder, because you have to work around the release cable. Once you have the molding out of the way, it should look a little like this:

At this point, you should be able to reach the underside of the beam. Each pin should have two supplied nuts. One nut goes under the beam, one goes on top. This allows you to tighten them down and secure the pin in place. However, the tightening process is much easier and you will scrape less paint off of the frame if you use two washers in addition to the supplied bolts.

So, take your first pin and thread one of the nuts onto the base of the pin. Now run a washer onto the pin from the top and run the pin up through the hole in the beam from the bottom. This will put the washer in between the nut and the beam. When you tighten the nuts, the nut will turn but the washers will remain (more or less) stationary. With the pin through the hole in the beam, drop the other washer onto it and thread the other bolt on top of that. Tighten it by hand (use a socket wrench on the nut under the beam to keep it from turning). Do not worry about
the angle that the holes are pointing just yet. We are going to have to adjust the pin height before we finish anyways.

Get the nuts tightened well and then check to make sure the pins are standing up straight. When I did my install, they were angled a bit. I would assume this is due to the hole we are using. To straighted out the pin, I got the nuts nice and tight and then just put some weight into it. The beam we are using is relatively thin metal and will bend if you put some force on it. After a few minutes they were nice and straight. Your pins should look like this:

12-31-2001, 02:37 PM
With the pins secured and straight, it is time to drill the hole in the hood. First, we need to mark the underside of the hood so that we drill in the right place. There are a few different methods of doing this:

#1 Put paint, or another thick liquid on the tip of the pins and lower the hood onto them.

#2 Lower the hood down and bump it against the pins to make small indentions in the hood.

I chose the second option, and smacked the hood against the pins a few times. Call me destructive, but it worked fine. Once I had the spot marked, I used the largest drill bit that would fit in my dremel and drilled a hole at that spot.

Note: Most hoods are going to have a reinforced "skeleton" underneath it. For instance, my carbon fiber hood has a fiberglass skeleton to make it stronger. Drill the hood in two stages. First make the initial hole in the skeleton, and then use the marking method again to mark the upper layer and drill the second hole.

A word or two about hole size and symmetry: Keep in mind that we are going to be installing scratch plates along with these pins. The scratch plates are meant to prevent you from scratching up your hood when inserting and removing the
pins. The other thing they do, is cover up the hack job you did while drilling the hood. The hole you drill has to be larger in diameter than the hole in the scratch plate, and smaller than the outer diameter of the scratch plate. This gives you a lot of leway with your holes. The pictures below show the original holes I drilled, from the top.

Notice that they are not perfectly centered and they are also not perfectly rounded. However, once they pins and scratch plates are in place, they looked like this:

Not bad. However, as you can see, the pin is too close to the rim of the hole and it shows through under the scratch plate. I went back and widened the holes so they look like this:

12-31-2001, 02:42 PM
At this point, I ran out of time. When I got up the next morning, I took this picture of the car:

Just a LITTLE crooked, eh? Lucky for me, I could get the hood to sit flat by lowering the pin on the drivers side. Adjusting the pins is a repetative process. Lower a bit, push the molding back in place, lower the hood, check it out. Not right yet. Raise the hood, pull out the molding, adjust the pin, etc, etc. While adjusting the pins for height, make sure that you angle the holes on the pins so that pins point the direction you want them to. Also, I wanted to have the hood pins really help to hold the hood down so I made sure that they were just a BIT lower than they should be, so that in order to slide the clasp into place I had to push down slightly on the hood. Once I had the pins adjusted it looked like this:

Much better! Of course, there is still a bit too much gap between the underside of the hood and the top of the bumper, but this is just due to poor manufacturing. You might not have this same problem.

NOTE: I was able to fix some of the gapping problems by lowering the hood latch. You can only pull the hood down so far until the latch on the hood bottoms out against the locking mechanism on the frame. To pull the hood down even lower, remove the locking mechanism from the frame, and use a file to open the bolt holes. Slot the holes upwards, making sure to leave atleast 1/4" of material. I was able to drop the hood down a bit more using this technique. No pics, though.

Now that you have your pins adjusted to the proper height and aligned properly, you will want to raise the outer rubber plugs so that the hood rests on them when closed and latched.

12-31-2001, 02:48 PM
The last thing left to do is secure the scratch plates. To do this, start by closing the hood. Put the scratch plates over the pins and attach the clasp. If you adjusted the pins a little low you will have an easier time with this, because the scratch plates will not be able to slide around on you.

The plates attach to the hood with 4 small screws. With the plate where you want it, use a dremel and a drilling bit to
start the holes for you, and then screw them in with a normal screw driver. I suggest starting the holes with a drill so you do not have to worry about the screw jumping out of the hole and scratching up your hood. Below is a pic of the dremel bit I used to start the holes, and a picture of the plate with one screw in place. Notice that while putting that screw in the plate shifted on me. Always make sure the plate is centered before putting in the second screw - 2 screws will be enough to hold the plate in place so it does not move anymore. Make sure the hood is properly centered before you put the plates on. I didn't get the scratch plates centered properly - luckily a new kit only costs $15 so I can replace the plates.

Ok, horrible picture of the dremel tip - I know. But it should give you an idea of what it looks like. Again, I think a normal drill bit (like I used to drill the hole for the pins) would work in this situation as well. Finish screwing down the scratch plates. They should look like this when you are finished:

And you are done! Here is a the final product:

12-31-2001, 02:50 PM
A few months after the initial install, I went back and lowered the hood latch on the frame, and got the hood to sit even lower. Here is a current pic (with the FMIC but before the trimmed bumper).. As you can see, the hood is still not sitting totally flat, because I am too lazy to adjust the pins again. :)

12-31-2001, 03:55 PM
Thanks BRIAN!! :D :cool: :)

03-18-2002, 11:59 PM
thankyou lord searching does work :).. thanks for the great writeup Brian..ill be installing mine this week..

03-19-2002, 09:14 PM
What's a good price on these? I want one, but I need to
order my injector's first :< Looks come last, not that she looks bad now :>

03-20-2002, 12:45 AM
prices range from 300+ depending no where you get it and who makes it..

03-20-2002, 10:53 AM
All I have to say is "good job"! Your walk through has definitely taken away some of the doubts about buying a carbon fiber hood. Before--->:( after--->:D

03-20-2002, 03:28 PM
Originally posted by larryd
prices range from 300+ depending no where you get it and who makes it..

My advice, is pay for a good hood. Go through a well known company (like Fiber Images) and PAY for the thing.

I got mine cheap (CHEAP) and the quality just isn't the same. Neither was the service.

03-21-2002, 01:10 AM
i agree 100%.. the best or none..

03-24-2002, 03:11 PM
i agree 100%.. the best or none..

Unfortunately, many tuners don't live by this same creed....

09-27-2004, 09:30 AM
The hood info can be found here:

Unfortunately the dsm pics site went down so none of the images posted above work anymore.