strut bar PROPER install [Archive] - DSM Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum:

: strut bar PROPER install

01-14-2001, 04:59 AM
You know those polished strut bars with a nut insert on each side so you can adjust the length.. Well I found out that more than just bolting it on. After you bolt it on, you roll/turn the bar in one direction you'll see the ends being pushed out. This is due to the threads are actually reversed on each side. Anyways just turn it so the bar pushes out nice and tight.

For the front I don't think you can turn the bar after bolt on due to not enough clearance..

Sorry if you know this already. I didn't know this before and bolted it on never adjusted it :P

[Edited by 95GST on 01-14-2001 at 07:02 AM]

01-14-2001, 11:47 AM
I think youre actually suppossed to adjust them so that it pulls the strut towers together a small amount. Otherwise youre creating positive camber.

01-14-2001, 02:51 PM
I have heard a lot about pushing them apart. I would think it just reacts to the flex sooner, thats all.

I do not think it can change camber, as I saw the bar bracket flex if I go to far. Otherwise no one would need camber kits.

01-14-2001, 05:37 PM
I see what you mean. We had a pretty lengthy thread on this a little while back. I think all bars a designed a little differently. I actually wouldnt want one that required any preload in order to react properly. I wouldnt want to be throwing off my camber in any direction. Also it seems that if you have to preload the bar in order to make it stiff enough, then it just isnt a stiff enough bar.

01-14-2001, 09:20 PM
Yup, there was a thread on it ... and still nobody explained why they make their STB to pull the towers together. A rather compitent source told me to make the bar to push slightly outwards to square off the suspension. IMO pulling colapses the suspension.
Please reply with some REAL info!!!!!

01-15-2001, 10:48 AM
Yeah, I'm very interested in some good answers here, I'd like to know the best way to have my STB set up. I'm curious as to how much the bar affects the suspension geometries. I've been having problems with the camber in my car and am thinking it might be from the Greddy adjustable STB I've got.

Anyone know whether to have the bar push out or pull in? How much effect is the STB having on the suspension? Seems that having it pull the suspension together would result in more negative camber, whereas having it push out would get more positive camber.

Can anyone shed some definitive light on this subject??

01-15-2001, 06:55 PM
can't really add anything, but on the Y2K, Mitsu decided to add a STB, and it isnt adjustable. It is attached at three points vs the usual two STB.

01-16-2001, 09:55 AM
Many musle cars have that type STB - goes to the center of the fire-wall - unfortunatelly it doesn't answere our question :(

01-17-2001, 12:38 PM
I am getting the feel that a slight outward push is best. My question is when you install it do you need to jack the car up or can it be installed while on the ground. What is the proper torque for the bolts?

Thanks for the help~

01-18-2001, 12:27 AM
it can be installed with the car on the ground.

01-18-2001, 01:08 AM
Here's my take, if your bar is adjustable, you can do it on the ground (cuz you can adjust it afterwards)

If it's non adjustable like RRE's, do it with the car in the air.

And the adjustment, I adjusted my upper rear so it pushes out quite a lot, I noticed the front feel heavier (like understeer), so I loosened it and slight made it pulling. I believe this would make the rear loose (i.e. oversteer) and therefore reduce the understeer.

it's very hard to tell the difference at times, just gut feeling.

01-18-2001, 08:21 AM
Just to add... I found out that the shock tower bolts should be tightened to 32 ft/lbs or torque... Just in case someone else was wondering...

01-18-2001, 01:03 PM
Originally posted by 95GST
For the front I don't think you can turn the bar after bolt on due to not enough clearance..

I'm not sure what you mean by "not enough clearance", but actually the one I'm concerned with is the front STB. Mine is in fact adjustable on the car (Greddy), can be made to either push out or pull in with the car on the ground.

From the sounds of things here and after experimenting with it a little, I've decided to have it pushing out. To me it seems that this way it will seriously stiffen the front chassis, as opposed to having it pulling in.

01-18-2001, 01:57 PM
Just to add... I found out that the shock tower bolts should be tightened to 32 ft/lbs or torque... Just in case someone else was wondering...

I would check some manuals to make sure, 32 ft.lbs sure rings a bell but on the non turbos the front are only 18 ft.lbs for example. Also the front and rear may have different torque specs.

I don't know what the greddy looks like, but the generic strut bars you have to spin the whole thing like a BBQ stick to get it to push out or pull in.

Best is just to experiment and see. For my front I just slided in the bolts without adjusting it. I know its working because I'm seeing the end brackets are starting to crack :)

01-18-2001, 07:38 PM
In the manual:
Front/Rear 29-36 ft.lbs.
Front/Rear 32 ft.lbs.

01-28-2001, 08:11 PM
The STB should be pushing out (firmly). It won't mess up the camber any.(the rears have a fair amount of negative camber to them anyway)
the idea of the bar is to help the tower on the outside of the turn to "stay put". by bolting the two together the inside tower helps the outside tower, only if the force is "out". understand???

01-28-2001, 08:40 PM
I don't think you want it pushing or pulling "severely" in any direction when parked. If your strut tower bolts were loose or had alot of play in them; if you had it pushing out it could increase camber a slight amount, if you had it pulling in it could decrease camber or make it more negative. I think if you got your camber set-up right, before the stb install, you install it with it just snug on the "pushing out" side of things.
This way, in a tight corner, say to the left, when the right side tower wants to push into the engine bay with the weight transfer to the right side due to inertia, and the wheel and spring pushing it back in. It would keep the left side tower at the preset distance, forcing that left wheel to the pavement better and keeping the steering geometry at the preset angles, preserving steering characteristics, tire wear and traction.
This is how I see it, but I could be wrong...