AWD Terror
07-22-2002, 09:22 PM
The following is by DSMtalk.com Member <a href=http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/member.php?action=getinfo&userid=5676 target=_blank>venom42</a>. <BR><BR><img src=http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/articles/1gfp/fp-intro.jpg align=left border=0> <P>If you have increased the boost on your turbo, it's a good idea to make sure the fuel supply is also steady. This VFAQ describes how to do a fuel pump rewire for a 1G FWD.</P><BR> <br>Before beginning this project, be sure that you have all tools and materials that are required to complete the job, and READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS THROROUGHLY. The main reason for this is that you will not be able to make a run to Wal-Mart, Radio Shack, or wherever, with your fuel pump disconnected! I should not even have to say this, but.... do this mod at your own risk! If you mess up, and in turn blow up your engine, it is not my responsibility. This is intended to be a guideline for how I chose to do this mod. There are many different ways to go about this, but again, this is simply how I did it. It would be helpful to read through the <A HREF=http://www.vfaq.com/mods/pump-relay.html target=_blank><b>1G AWD FPR page</B></A>.
I did mine using that page as a guideline. I got most of my materials from a car stereo shop (Hi-Fi Buys), but Autozone (any parts store for that matter) or Radio Shack should also have what you need. Here is the list:<BR><BR><TABLE BORDER=0 BGCOLOR=#e0e0e0 width=100%><TH BGCOLOR=#616161><FONT SIZE=3 COLOR=#FFFFFF><B>Parts / Tools Needed:</B></FONT></TH><TR><TD><UL> <LI>1 foglight relay
<LI>6 wire connectors or posi-locks wire connectors <LI>about 10 female spade connectors (to connect to the blades on the relay)
<LI>1 male spade connector (optional)
<LI>about 15' of 10awg wire (red is a good color for this since it is going to be your power line)
<LI>about 2' of black 10 or 12 awg wire (for the ground)
<LI>about 3' of 14-16 awg wire (it would be helpful to have 3 separate colors) <LI>In-line fuse holder, and a fuse to go in it (I used a 20A fuse with no problems) <LI>some sort of protective covering for your power wire (I used the spiral wound black plastic stuff) <LI>electrical tape
<LI>a pair of wire crimpers/strippers <LI>soldering iron and solder (optional) <LI><B>Disconnect the battery BEFORE you begin</B> </UL></TD></TR></TABLE> <p><B>(Click the images for a larger version if available.)</B><table cellpadding=1 cellspacing=1 border=1><tr><td align=center><IMG SRC=http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/articles/1gfp/relaydiag.gif><BR>(Diagram courtesy of Tom Stangl from vfaq.com :) )</td><td><H3><B>1.</B></H3>Here is a diagram of the relay. It would be helpful to go ahead and attach the spade connectors to the relay blades at this time, and go ahead and color code the wires to the numbers in the diagram. This will help make splicing into the wires on the car easier, since you will already have one step done. The numbers correspond like this: <UL> <LI>30 - feed wire from battery
<LI>87A - not used
<LI>87 - this is to the wire on the fuel pump side of the plug
<LI>86 - this is to the wire on the car side of the plug <LI>85 - ground</UL></td></tr><tr><td align=center><A HREF=http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/articles/1gfp/pump2.jpg><IMG SRC=http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/articles/1gfp/pump.jpg></A></td><td><H3><B>2.</B></H3>This is a pic of the fuel pump, which is located under the rear of the car on the back side of the gas tank. Locate the plug that is indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture. You will be splicing into the wiring on the car side of this plug. You can use regular crimp connectors, but posi-locks are better (weatherproof). you might also want to solder if you use crimp connectors. You will have to peel off some tape that is on there from the factory, so you can get to the wires. The black wire with the white stripe is the 12v power line that you need to splice into. Attach the wires to the relay, as per the list beside the relay diagram (terminals 86 and 87). Attach your ground wire to terminal 85. The green arrow is this pic shows the bolt that I used for the ground. It is the bolt that holds the strap for the gas tank on. The gas tank will not fall down when you take off this nut. If you used the kind of connector that is not enclosed (not recommended), then you will not have to remove the nut (just loosen, slip on, and re-tighten). As a side note - you can create a bypass, in case your relay dies or the fuse blows or whatever. To do this, you simply need another wire extending from terminal 86, and one from 87. One should have a female spade connector, and one should have a male. To bypass the relay (and return to stock operation), simply attach the 2 wires. </td></tr></table><BR><table cellpadding=1 cellspacing=1 border=1><tr><td><H3><B>3.</B></H3>Here you can see where I attached the relay to the support strap for the gas tank. I used a large zip-tie to secure the relay. You should also wrap the relay and strap in electrical tape. This will further secure the relay, serve as minor protection and help weatherproof it as well. </td><td align=center><A HREF=http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/articles/1gfp/relay2.jpg><IMG SRC=http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/articles/1gfp/relay.jpg></A></td></tr><tr><td align=center><A HREF=http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/articles/1gfp/wire2.jpg><IMG SRC=http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/articles/1gfp/wire.jpg></A></td><td>I ran the power line over the filler pipe for the gas tank, and found the brake line. Here you can see the wire coming to the brake line at the back of the car.</td></tr><tr><td align=center><A HREF=http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/articles/1gfp/brakeline2.jpg><IMG SRC=http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/articles/1gfp/brakeline.jpg></A></td><td>Here, the green arrow is the brakeline. The yellow arrow is the power line from the battery. I just pushed the power line between the brakeline and the car (helps hold it in place and protect it). I also used zip-ties all along the way to secure the power line. You can see the protective wrap around the wire.</td></tr></table><BR><table cellpadding=1 cellspacing=1 border=1><tr><td><H3><B>4.</B></H3>The arrow in this picture is where the power line comes into the engine compartment. Run it carefully behind the engine to the positive battery terminal. Be sure to secure it with zip-ties along the way. </td><td align=center><A HREF=http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/articles/1gfp/firewall2.jpg><IMG SRC=http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/articles/1gfp/firewall.jpg></A></td></tr><tr><td>This is the in-line fuse holder. Simply connect your power line to one side, and the positive battery cable to the other side. I used the small bolt that tightens the lead to the terminal to hold my power line on. It is imperative that you make sure there is a fuse in the fuse holder! I used a 20A fuse. </td><td align=center><A HREF=http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/articles/1gfp/fuse2.jpg><IMG SRC=http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/articles/1gfp/fuse.jpg></A></td></tr></table><P>That's pretty much it! Re-attach the battery leads, and fire it up! <BR>We hope that you have found this VFAQ helpful - it was prepared by Mike McPherson (venom42@bellsouth.net). <BR><BR><B>Questions or comments? Please discuss this article here (http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=57659).</b>
I did mine using that page as a guideline. I got most of my materials from a car stereo shop (Hi-Fi Buys), but Autozone (any parts store for that matter) or Radio Shack should also have what you need. Here is the list:<BR><BR><TABLE BORDER=0 BGCOLOR=#e0e0e0 width=100%><TH BGCOLOR=#616161><FONT SIZE=3 COLOR=#FFFFFF><B>Parts / Tools Needed:</B></FONT></TH><TR><TD><UL> <LI>1 foglight relay
<LI>6 wire connectors or posi-locks wire connectors <LI>about 10 female spade connectors (to connect to the blades on the relay)
<LI>1 male spade connector (optional)
<LI>about 15' of 10awg wire (red is a good color for this since it is going to be your power line)
<LI>about 2' of black 10 or 12 awg wire (for the ground)
<LI>about 3' of 14-16 awg wire (it would be helpful to have 3 separate colors) <LI>In-line fuse holder, and a fuse to go in it (I used a 20A fuse with no problems) <LI>some sort of protective covering for your power wire (I used the spiral wound black plastic stuff) <LI>electrical tape
<LI>a pair of wire crimpers/strippers <LI>soldering iron and solder (optional) <LI><B>Disconnect the battery BEFORE you begin</B> </UL></TD></TR></TABLE> <p><B>(Click the images for a larger version if available.)</B><table cellpadding=1 cellspacing=1 border=1><tr><td align=center><IMG SRC=http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/articles/1gfp/relaydiag.gif><BR>(Diagram courtesy of Tom Stangl from vfaq.com :) )</td><td><H3><B>1.</B></H3>Here is a diagram of the relay. It would be helpful to go ahead and attach the spade connectors to the relay blades at this time, and go ahead and color code the wires to the numbers in the diagram. This will help make splicing into the wires on the car easier, since you will already have one step done. The numbers correspond like this: <UL> <LI>30 - feed wire from battery
<LI>87A - not used
<LI>87 - this is to the wire on the fuel pump side of the plug
<LI>86 - this is to the wire on the car side of the plug <LI>85 - ground</UL></td></tr><tr><td align=center><A HREF=http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/articles/1gfp/pump2.jpg><IMG SRC=http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/articles/1gfp/pump.jpg></A></td><td><H3><B>2.</B></H3>This is a pic of the fuel pump, which is located under the rear of the car on the back side of the gas tank. Locate the plug that is indicated by the yellow arrow in the picture. You will be splicing into the wiring on the car side of this plug. You can use regular crimp connectors, but posi-locks are better (weatherproof). you might also want to solder if you use crimp connectors. You will have to peel off some tape that is on there from the factory, so you can get to the wires. The black wire with the white stripe is the 12v power line that you need to splice into. Attach the wires to the relay, as per the list beside the relay diagram (terminals 86 and 87). Attach your ground wire to terminal 85. The green arrow is this pic shows the bolt that I used for the ground. It is the bolt that holds the strap for the gas tank on. The gas tank will not fall down when you take off this nut. If you used the kind of connector that is not enclosed (not recommended), then you will not have to remove the nut (just loosen, slip on, and re-tighten). As a side note - you can create a bypass, in case your relay dies or the fuse blows or whatever. To do this, you simply need another wire extending from terminal 86, and one from 87. One should have a female spade connector, and one should have a male. To bypass the relay (and return to stock operation), simply attach the 2 wires. </td></tr></table><BR><table cellpadding=1 cellspacing=1 border=1><tr><td><H3><B>3.</B></H3>Here you can see where I attached the relay to the support strap for the gas tank. I used a large zip-tie to secure the relay. You should also wrap the relay and strap in electrical tape. This will further secure the relay, serve as minor protection and help weatherproof it as well. </td><td align=center><A HREF=http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/articles/1gfp/relay2.jpg><IMG SRC=http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/articles/1gfp/relay.jpg></A></td></tr><tr><td align=center><A HREF=http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/articles/1gfp/wire2.jpg><IMG SRC=http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/articles/1gfp/wire.jpg></A></td><td>I ran the power line over the filler pipe for the gas tank, and found the brake line. Here you can see the wire coming to the brake line at the back of the car.</td></tr><tr><td align=center><A HREF=http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/articles/1gfp/brakeline2.jpg><IMG SRC=http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/articles/1gfp/brakeline.jpg></A></td><td>Here, the green arrow is the brakeline. The yellow arrow is the power line from the battery. I just pushed the power line between the brakeline and the car (helps hold it in place and protect it). I also used zip-ties all along the way to secure the power line. You can see the protective wrap around the wire.</td></tr></table><BR><table cellpadding=1 cellspacing=1 border=1><tr><td><H3><B>4.</B></H3>The arrow in this picture is where the power line comes into the engine compartment. Run it carefully behind the engine to the positive battery terminal. Be sure to secure it with zip-ties along the way. </td><td align=center><A HREF=http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/articles/1gfp/firewall2.jpg><IMG SRC=http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/articles/1gfp/firewall.jpg></A></td></tr><tr><td>This is the in-line fuse holder. Simply connect your power line to one side, and the positive battery cable to the other side. I used the small bolt that tightens the lead to the terminal to hold my power line on. It is imperative that you make sure there is a fuse in the fuse holder! I used a 20A fuse. </td><td align=center><A HREF=http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/articles/1gfp/fuse2.jpg><IMG SRC=http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/images/articles/1gfp/fuse.jpg></A></td></tr></table><P>That's pretty much it! Re-attach the battery leads, and fire it up! <BR>We hope that you have found this VFAQ helpful - it was prepared by Mike McPherson (venom42@bellsouth.net). <BR><BR><B>Questions or comments? Please discuss this article here (http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=57659).</b>