cheapest way to not have crankwalk??

[Mikey_C]

I know the search function but I have spent month reading posts and info seems very contridictive.
some say its the oil squirters(ala magnus motorsport)
pretty good write up but only flaw i see is that the squirters are aimed at cooling pistons not lubircating crank

some say torque of trans matted to engine
seems also possible makes mechanical sense but no way to test theory(or is there??)
but the concensus is go 1g swap

some say cw can be avoided with meticulous maintence but of course i have info contradicting to that

to me spending $3000 minimuim for an older engine to be installed my may car sounds a little nuts, also i believe if the mv inspections got hold of that info i wouldnt be on the roads much longer

A 97 gsx with 60k and crankwalk, regular synthetic oil changes w/ oem filter. i have little money for a major project so looking at the best way long term to have a good engine in my car and my tools and space are limited so doesnt look like i can do a swap or major engine work myself
My options
1g swap- full block and head requires much electrical reworking but im close to turbo trix so i would be an ass if i didnt let them do it for me
about $1200 for install plus
1g used engine anywhere from $500-$2000(for cyclone) or
1g built motor upward of $3000 for average to above average
boost
1g block-on 2g head
not sure of the costs and work related to this project
not really an option(for me) due to many oil leaks
im looking for somewhat reliable so dont think this is really worth it

2g, could just replace the block with a non-cw block and take my chance this seems like the easiest short term answer for me( i have nooo $)
if oil squirters is the problem:
any possiblility of pressing in 1g squirter or using no squirters
at all and just plug the hole??
i would first want to test the quirters in the car to see if they are at all the problem
if block to trans the problem a good mechanic could cure this evil

finding a good 2g block might be a problem would like to see a price for a crate block via satan??

please someone with more knowledge chime in to correct give mroe insight on this one?

would like to organize much of the cw for myself(as well as others) would appreciate any feedback from the wise
looking for a compete guide to the answers to cw
moderators:please send this to a more appropriate forum if you see fit

[94integra]

Do you have crankwalk now? I can't tell if you do or are trying to prevent it from your post. If you don't have it you shouldn't worry about it until it does happen. Chances are you won't get it at all - very few 2gs actually get it.

If you do have it you should go with a 1g engine. If you're not doing the work yourself it would probably cost close to the same to put in a whole 1g engine as it would to put in just the 1g or 2g block because you have to pull the engine either way.

As far as preventing crankwalk, I think the cause is still undetermined, so taking any of those steps you mentioned might not stop it from happening.

[infury]

I think he's saying he has crankwalk and from here should he go 7bolt or 6bolt as he is thinking going 6 will cost more.

If you already walked it's up to you. I'd personally go with a 6bolt but I wouldn't rule out getting a 7bolt as cw is a rare thing to happen.

also there is nothing you can really do to prevent cw. you will either walk or you won't I think is the general consensus.

[T3/T4GSt]

It's amazing how much fear some 2G owners have of Crankwalk. All I did on my was remove the clutch switch since that suggestion does not hurt and the theory behind it made sense. If I did get crankwalk I'd probably go 6 bold with EVO pistons.

[oOBLazerOo]

Very true. The only think i"ve ever heard of stopping crankwalk before it happens is replacing the bearing where the crank goes into the engine. Dont remember which site I heard this on, but they said that the original was to small and allowed the crankshaft to move around to much.

[Mikey_C]

I am so fearful of crankwalk because the car has it!

The only think i"ve ever heard of stopping crankwalk before it happens is replacing the bearing where the crank goes into the engine
thats the exact type of info im looking for. getting my hands on a good block then pull the head then block out myself seems like a much more viable option than throwing in a older engine. due to all the crankwalk scare i can probably get my hands on a 2 g engine cheap then getting the bearings replaced at a good shop

i just feel like swaping an older motor in which involves a bunch of electrical rewiring seems to be the most popular option but i just dont like the idea

Mike

[eclipse2nr91]

the thrust bearings are what he's talking about. I'm not sure of the price, but if you get crankwalk, then replace the thrust bearings, I've researched that it's USUALLY only a temporary fix, good for about 20k-30k miles, but still, it works. I think the reason it's only usually temporary, is that by the time a 7-bolt gets crankwalk, it's about near the end of it's life.

[Faded]

For what it's worth - 96' / 160,000 miles / Track every Wed and Fri / no walk, but if it did I would drop in the 6Bolt built up to support the next mods without hessitaion :D Well maybe a little hessitation while I save up the money.

[92tsiawd84]

how about taking the $3000 you thought it would cost to swap a 6 bolt in and using it to buy a 1g with a 6 bolt.

[oOBLazerOo]

2g's are more stylish. That's the only reason I bought one over a 1g. I liked the style more, although some 1g's do look really really nice :)

[Faded]

Originally posted by 92tsiawd84
how about taking the $3000 you thought it would cost to swap a 6 bolt in and using it to buy a 1g with a 6 bolt.

The 1g would most likely have a tired 100k engine versus and built up 6 bolt dropped in. I have thought about buying a 1g, but there is a good chance you may have to build it up even after buying it, so I figure it's cheaper to drop in a built one. That's just my opinion.

[-Boost_krazy-]

Where is the site that contains the known cases of crankwalk? I remember seeing it a while back.. also, is there an average mileage? I'm at 82k and haven't ran into any problems yet. :knock on wood:

As for the question, I would just do the 6 bolt swap.. you'll probably end up spending less money in the long run.

[99GSTRaptor]

Here is a quote from the Magnus article:

"Picture this scenario: A particle has wedged itself between the check ball and seating surface of the squirter, the engine is at idle the clutch is depressed, we are now receiving less oil flow and pressure than the main should be getting. Now keep in mind the only way the thrust bearing is fed oil, is from oil that bleeds past the main bearing looking for an escape, it then flows to the thrust. If that check valve is contaminated and stays open, then you are losing some pressure and flow."

If you read the entire article and understand what is happening, this, in my opinion, is the best explanation of the cause for crankwalk.

If this is true, the best bet to avoid crankwalk in a 2G is to keep your oil as clean as possible, ie change your oil very often (<3000) and use synthetic if you can. Also, if it it from the oil squirters sticking open, not allowing oil pressure to get to the mains, then disconnect the clutch switch, so you don't have to put load on the thrust bearing with no oil pressure, never hold the clutch in while sitting in traffic, and maybe rev a little to bring the oil pressure up before you depress the clutch pedal.

Hope this helps a little.

Eric

[melissanbob]

Call me a Paranoid schitzofrenic, but I think the whole crankwalk thing has been severely over stated, the percentage of 7 bolts that do not get crankwalk, is probably somewhere in the neighborhood of 97%, also there have been reports of crankwalk on six bolts before, I think someone bought a bunch of old 6 bolt blocks cheap, took the crankwalk occurrences and created a wave of mass hysteria among 2nd genners, therefore increasing the demand for "bulletproof" 6 bolt blocks, increased demand+limited supply=increased prices, and profits, for those selling a six bolt, like I said call me crazy, I talked at great lenght with the service mngr at my local mitsu shop, he said he's never had an eclipse in for crankwalk, I say as long as the bearing gaps are o.k pull the balance shafts for a little insurance as the procedure increases oil pressure to the crank, and put your 7 bolt back in.

[Midnite Stalker]

wHY woulod someone do that with the engine blocks
for he won't get all the clientel and prolly the mitsu
shop never heard of the occurence cause no ones willing
to pay dealer rates

[-Boost_krazy-]

Originally posted by 99GSTRaptor
Here is a quote from the Magnus article:

"Picture this scenario: A particle has wedged itself between the check ball and seating surface of the squirter, the engine is at idle the clutch is depressed, we are now receiving less oil flow and pressure than the main should be getting. Now keep in mind the only way the thrust bearing is fed oil, is from oil that bleeds past the main bearing looking for an escape, it then flows to the thrust. If that check valve is contaminated and stays open, then you are losing some pressure and flow."

If you read the entire article and understand what is happening, this, in my opinion, is the best explanation of the cause for crankwalk.

If this is true, the best bet to avoid crankwalk in a 2G is to keep your oil as clean as possible, ie change your oil very often (<3000) and use synthetic if you can. Also, if it it from the oil squirters sticking open, not allowing oil pressure to get to the mains, then disconnect the clutch switch, so you don't have to put load on the thrust bearing with no oil pressure, never hold the clutch in while sitting in traffic, and maybe rev a little to bring the oil pressure up before you depress the clutch pedal.

Hope this helps a little.

Eric

The parts guy (a member on GADSM) i talked to at the local mitsu dealer says they have 2g's in for CW all the time. There's no way it's a scam.

[melissanbob]

my mitsu guy never heard of it, strange huh

[K_Mans_TSI]

changing your 2g block for a 1g block will have nothing to do with the way your car passes inspection or emissions..and if you're THAT worried about it all u need to do is use the bottom end, keep your 2g head and all the electronics/vacuum lines and it's no different than the original motor that was in there, just has a different designed oil pan.

[AXiS]

Originally posted by melissanbob
Call me a Paranoid schitzofrenic, but I think the whole crankwalk thing has been severely over stated, the percentage of 7 bolts that do not get crankwalk, is probably somewhere in the neighborhood of 97%, also there have been reports of crankwalk on six bolts before, I think someone bought a bunch of old 6 bolt blocks cheap, took the crankwalk occurrences and created a wave of mass hysteria among 2nd genners, therefore increasing the demand for "bulletproof" 6 bolt blocks, increased demand+limited supply=increased prices, and profits, for those selling a six bolt, like I said call me crazy, I talked at great lenght with the service mngr at my local mitsu shop, he said he's never had an eclipse in for crankwalk, I say as long as the bearing gaps are o.k pull the balance shafts for a little insurance as the procedure increases oil pressure to the crank, and put your 7 bolt back in.

It's definately not a scam, and the percentage is much lower than that. Just think about all the cases of crankwalk that the owners never reported or knew what was going on. I had a friend years back that had a 95 gs-t and he was telling me about his clutch problems the car kept having, and they they couldn't ever get it fixed. I bet you anything that was crankwalk, and the dealership never knew or didn't admit it. I got it in my car, there are many here on this board alone that now have 6 bolts in their 2Gs because of it.

[TurboBruce]

Faded,

Where do you live in So Cal? I want to start going to the track but don't know where to go. What track do you go to? Could you give me some info please. Thanks