ACT2600 (surprised no one did this yet!)

[Lipster]

Well, got my ACT 2600 clutch installed. $395 with T.O. bearing from RRE. I had also needed a new flywheel...

In any case, I laughed the first time I tried to take off in this thing!! It GRABS! AND RIGHT AWAY!!! The pedal effort is, on my car, significantly more stiff. I had a centerforce DF in previously. I haven't attempted a hard launch yet because I do want to do some kind of a break in period and also get used to the immediate grab from the clutch.

My hydraulics are all under 20k miles old and my assembly was replaced, however I am noticing some movement... going to take it back to satan an make sure the reconnected the assembly properly!

Now, being a 7 bolt 1G, time will tell if this will contribute to quickly wearing crank bearings... (*cough* walk *cough*)

Again, the price was good and if you are looking for a clutch that grabs... this is the deal...

[Lee's GSX]

surprised no one did what???? Put ACT 2600lb in car??

[Lipster]

Nope... do an official review... but, there are TONS of posts on it, so... I almost feel dorky!

[turbo21psi]

I also got an ACT 2600 from RRE. I used to have a clutchmasters w/ a 4-puck disk and the ACT is much more of an improvement. Installation was easy (FWD), nothing different from installing a stock clutch, however I advise not to just throw around the bolts that had to be removed since there would be a lot of them that looks alike. I ended up having to use a new flywheel because the ceramic disk just ate up the flywheel and the pressure plate. It was beyond resurfacing.
At first use, it grabs rather quickly, however after a few hundred miles, the engagement seems to have improved. (I'm probably just getting used to it) Engagement between shifts are much more smoother than my old clutch, and I haven't experienced chatter on it yet.
Pedal pressure was stiff at first, but now it feels softer(again it's probably that my leg got stronger from using it)
either way....you'll get used to it!
I can't really compare it to stock because I burned out the stock one 1 day after I got the car and got a clutchmasters right away.
I have no drivability problem with it engaging fast and the pedal pressure.
No hard launches on it yet but it seems to be holding well when I go through the revs at 17psi.

It's a very nice clutch, I just hope it lasts longer than my old one.

[fastass4bangr]

I also went from a clutch masters clutch which was a non sprung 3 puck ceramic disk,no matter how i launched it never died,fortanately my patience did as it was insane to drive(chatter so bad I thought the tranny would fall out)I switched to a act 2600 and real enjoy the driveability.Also,I found the pedal effort to be no harder than the stage 5,as for its durability time will tell.

[DSMing91]

Happy to hear good things about this clutch (act2600). i bought it awhile back but havn't installed it yet. reall soon though. i guess i made a good purchase.

[Boostd4]

I've had the ACT 2600 in my car for almost a year now.

I cannot tell any pedal effort difference from stock. I know that it's bigger, but you get used to it so much so that you don't even notice it.. even in rush hour traffic.

Engagement is PERFECT. I have absolutely ZERO chatter whatsoever, performs exactly like stock.

Except of course that it grabs like mad when you want it to. Even grabs hard after a full day of racing. was pulling low 1.8's after about 15 consecutive pulls on the dragstrip. That's good seeing my best 60 is a high 1.7

HTH

[Rmontalvo]

I pull high 1.6 60 fts with my car with the 2600 and the street disk. The reason that you guys are probably not getting chatter is becuase you are now using a street disk instead of the solid disks that come with the other clutches. The street disk lets the clutch slip just enough to make it a nice engagement and no chatter. I have had a ACT 2600 in my car for about 3 years and its still works great.

[Boostd4]

Originally posted by Rmontalvo
I pull high 1.6 60 fts with my car with the 2600 and the street disk

I've tried a few setups and I can't seem to break 1.7's all that often. My turbo is really screwed up, and very laggy because of munched compressor wheel. I'm thinking that if it were normal, I'd get that extra spool and shave a tenth to be in the high 1.6's?

Rich, what launch setup do you use? - wheel/tire size, air pressure, stutterbox, launch rpm, etc..

[Nitrox]

Hey, my clutch is about to go... any day now it seem, so I need one right away. I guess ATC 2600 is a way to go then.

Does anyone know where can I get a good deal on it? Any reliable distributors that ship fast, like Extreme, only doesn't charge an arm and a leg? (Nothing against Extreme but a MBC for $100? Argh!)

Thanx

[firepower]

I got mine from RRE w/ a lightened flywheel and motor mounts. I love the motor mounts. After 3 weeks I stopped noticeing a differece, but when I first installed them the entire car vibrates. Interior pieces rattle, but it goes away.

The clutch is great. I just worry about the tranny, but after 6 months, I am still fine. I have a few high 12 sec passes on it and a bunch of low 13's and everything is still working fine. I had better 60ft times with the stock clutch, but that means I just need practice. My best with this clutch is a 1.7 and my best before was a 1.6.

I like the flywheel too. It is best noticed when reving at a stoplight, or around friends who want to know what you have done to the car.

Later,

[Lipster]

Well, after getting my MOTOR replaced, the clutch pedal feels almost like STOCK!!!!!! Extremely easy to use the pedal!!

The only thing that was done was the addition of a 'shift improvement kit' that replaces the rubber bushing in the linkage with aluminum. That made smoother shifts but getting rid of crankwalk sure must have made one hell of a difference... :)

[Gopherhog]

I ordered my ACT2600 kit from RRE about 2 weeks ago... It took a while to get here because of the holidays, and just now got the car back from the tranny shop.

I toasted teh stock clutch within a week of when i bought it, so i had been looking for a replacement. I picked up the 2600lb Pressure plate, Organic Street Disk, and oem TO bearing for $408 shipped. Pictures are available in a thread i made in Parts Talk ( here: http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=77835 )

My immediate reactions after driving 30 miles on it:

Wow! This thing grabs hard. i almost killed it the first time i put it in gear and let out on the clutch. I was so used to the marshmellowy squishy stock clutch. Pedal pressure is notably stiffer than stock, but i'm sure i'll get used to it. I haven't been driving manual cars for very long (learned on this one) and so i'm not very good yet.

When starting off in 1st and shifting to 2nd gear i'm having trouble shifting smoothly. Its either me letting out the clutch too fast, or not giving it enough gas cause it starts to jerk the car a bit... I've done it probably 5-6 times smoothly, but the rest were less than perfect.

Starting off from a stop is the worst... shifting into 2nd is better, but still sometimes rough.. 3rd gear and up is fine.. the car is up to speed so it doesn't really care if i just sidestep the clutch.

I guess i just need more practice.

One thing i noticed though, was as i started it up, my idle was at 2000 rpms!! I don't know if this is something the tranny shop did when reinstalling or what. I messed around with the TB assembly when i got home and got it to idle around 900 rpms. I assumed it was just a stick TB cable, but after about 15 minutes of driving it made it's way back to around 1500 rpms...

When i got home i fiddled with the TB some more, and put some WD-40 on the lever/spring/cable assembly and opened and closed the plate a bunch. I started it up later that night and it was at 800 rpms... We'll see if it stays that way. I didn't feel exessive tension in the TB cable either.. so i think the plate is closing all the way. The BISS screw is all the way in.

Anyway, I also had the shop put in my Redline MT-90 Tranny fluid. Shifting is much smoother now. Again, i don't have alot of miles on the new setup yet, but just wanted to post some immediate reactions. I'll do a follup later on after the clutch is broken in. Hopefully some of the grabbyness goes away.

I can't wait to launch this mofo :)

[V8SpankR]

I'm on my 2nd 2600 and I won't even mess around experimenting with another clutch.
I've been running a 2600 on my car since '99 (over 200 strip launches) on my 7 bolt and everything is holding up fine so far.

[nomadtw]

Totally a different animal when launching with a 2600 vs a stock clutch. Love the 2600 though and wouldn't go for anything else (from RRE of course - have dealt with them for years).

As RRE states, pedal pressure can vary *LOTS* between cars (even of the same year and model). Very heavy in my '97 TSi AWD, and in the fiancé’s '95 TSi AWD it seriously feels like stock (but grabs and holds the power a whole lot better of course).

There are lots of things ACT recommends to change the engagement points and feeling of the clutch. It'll depend on who does the installing.

I really don't think anyone should be scared of picking up a 2600 because it's "so heavy" though, because it'll last you just that much longer, and you really do get used to the extra pedal effort in a week or two (and trying to drive a DSM with a stock clutch later is just hilarious!! "Where'd the clutch go?? Am I actually pushing it in or did I miss the pedal all together?!?") ;-)

[EvoDailyDriver]

I'm tossing up the options of the ACT2100 and the ACT2600.

Can anyone comment on the shock or jolt that is transferred to the drivetrain during race shifting.

I once had a ralliart clutch in my AWD, and the 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd shifts transferred such a significant jolt (not the mention the loud thud sound) to the drivetrain I was afraid that I was going to leave the tranny or one of the axles behind.

I'm afraid that the ACT2600 will have the same reaction.

Thanks for any comments shared.

[cucumber]

I have it. I like it. It's stiff. :D

[moneypit]

cool. i'm installing one in about 4 weeks. can't wait.

[Grawnhill]

im not talking shit guys, but i drive a 24' truck with a V6 cummings diesel. The turbo is about a foot wide (yes 12 inches). Funny thing is that the clutch takes about 50 lbs of force no shit. really! From what i hear some of you guys are pussys. you need to feel a real clutch. i like em stiff like my di*k when i fuc* my bit*h. No offense guys.

[badgsx]

Wow. This guy sounds like quite a romantic.

[Endless]

Originally posted by Grawnhill
im not talking shit guys, but i drive a 24' truck with a V6 cummings diesel. The turbo is about a foot wide (yes 12 inches). Funny thing is that the clutch takes about 50 lbs of force no shit. really! From what i hear some of you guys are pussys. you need to feel a real clutch. i like em stiff like my di*k when i fuc* my bit*h. No offense guys.

Hmm. You mean inline 6. Never seen an OTR truck with a V6. Also, those clutches are twin disc and they arent that hard to push in at all. 50 pounds aint shite for a leg to push unless you have a tooth pic to stand on.

jeff

[Grawnhill]

try looking under the hood when you see one. i mean unless all you have ever seen is a u haul you would know what im talking about

[Endless]

Well, not to hijack the thread but, I grew up around them and working on them and if you are talking about an OTR 18 wheeler then I'll give you $5 to find me one with anything but an inline 6 in it. Even our 10 wheelers have inline 6's them unless they are not diesel powered. Maybe you should take a picture, Ive never seen a cummins V6 so prove me wrong.

Anyway, I thought I would list the available cummins powerplants for you. They are all inline 6's.

Signature: Capable of 2050 lb/ft of torque
ISX: First fully electronic diesel engine
N14:
ISM: Yup, I'm still talking about 12 liter engines here
ISL:
ISC: Smaller than ISL
ISB: Delivery trucks and motor homes.

Now back to the topic at hand. Are all of you running the street disk with your 2600's or is anyone running one of the puck style disks be it 4 or 6.

jeff
www.swordfishGSX.8m.com

[DSM Vice]

Originally posted by EvoDailyDriver
I'm tossing up the options of the ACT2100 and the ACT2600.

Can anyone comment on the shock or jolt that is transferred to the drivetrain during race shifting.

I once had a ralliart clutch in my AWD, and the 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd shifts transferred such a significant jolt (not the mention the loud thud sound) to the drivetrain I was afraid that I was going to leave the tranny or one of the axles behind.

I'm afraid that the ACT2600 will have the same reaction.

Thanks for any comments shared.

Mine did at first (like after I first started driving it hard after a 500mile break in), but after a couple hundred miles it doesn't jolt anymore and feels like the stocker.

[EvoDailyDriver]

Hey DSM Vice,

Thanks for sharing your experience with the 2600. That was the one factor that had me apprehensive about going that way.

I think I will go ahead and give the 2600 a try....

[DSM Vice]

Originally posted by EvoDailyDriver
Hey DSM Vice,

Thanks for sharing your experience with the 2600. That was the one factor that had me apprehensive about going that way.

I think I will go ahead and give the 2600 a try....

I did a LOT of research and thought about it long and hard before I did it (mostly because of the crank walk thing, which you don't even have to worry about). Now that the clutch is broken in and after having driven it for a couple thousand miles I've definitely think I made the right decision. This clutch is just AMAZING. Maybe I just have one of those pedals that's not as hard, or my legs are strong, but I don't find the pedal feel is tough at all.

It does take some used to getting used to a first though. Like Lipster said, I started laughing the first time I tried to drive it! I stalled it three times and felt like a complete retard (till the mechanic said he'd had the same problem:P ). After a couple miles though I got used to having to rev the engine up a bit earlier when slipping the clutch out. It really grabs!

[EvoDailyDriver]

Looks like I will initially have to get my left leg strength up, and develop and whole new technique for launching. I just hope the organic disk doesn't quit after just a few months of street driving.

I'm certainly encouraged and looking forward to get it in now.

Thanks again...

[nowayout]

Just put my 2600 in a week ago. only driven it for 60 miles

it still jerks at little but I'm not at the 500 mile break in miles yet.

[flubyux2]

when i installed my 2600 w/ the Fidanza, it was a shock when i first pushed the pedal...and when i first backed it out of the shop...MAN o man was that crazy. when i first pushed it in, it was so stiff, my ass started to raise up off the seat... you know, like trying to push your power brakes when your Power assist isnt there anymore... it was crazy yo.

anyhow, No such thing as a V6 cummins, and you were offensive whether you meant it or not.... leave the trucker language in the truck.

And, even after our 500 mile break in (granny shifting and clutch slipping) i decided to get all up on it, and when i shifted into 2nd gear, it felt like i hit a speed bump at 40... i mean, it was as violent as fuel cut in 2nd gear, you know what im talkin about. And i dont know if it was just the fact our car was makin some serious power, or the new clutch, but when i shifted into 3rd, it jerked so hard the wipers clicked on... Mind you, that was THIRD gear, not second.

Now, i can spin 4 tires when i launch it and chirp them shifting into 2nd... whenever i want.

[badboy93tsi]

I would like to do alittle review on my ACT2600. Slow Boy Racing currently having free shipping on alot of special items; one of which is the ACT2600 kit (includes throwout bearing, aligned tool, street disc and 2600PP) for $389 shipped. I ordered mine on Monday afternoon and got it Wednesday afternoon. This is not my first time ordered from SBR and let me tell you the service is great. I would recommand anyone to SBR!

This clutch is AMAZING! I have had experiences with ACT2100 and 2600 is just much better and stronger. As far as clutch padel goes, mine feels alittle stiff the first few hundred miles. After about 1500 miles on the clutch, the padel feels almost like stock except that I can spin all 4 tires off the line and chirp from 1st-2nd. That's how much the thing grip. If you have an AWD, dont even think about 2100 unless you dont plan to go faster than 13s. I'm not saying 2100 cant get you into the 12s but 2100 would not last much long once your car running 12s and make more power.

[moneypit]

puttin' mine in next weekend. can't wait. damn stocker sucks.

[turboniam]

I had a Centerforce dual friction clutch in my car... peddle felt like stock and the clutch did not hold the power.

I put in an ACT 2600 (already had the RRE lighten fly wheel) and it has worked great ever since (not including the damn Clutch Pedal Assembly rebuild).

[4g63 kid]

i love this clutch had mines in for a while with a fidanza flywheel...its stiff but not stiffer than the ACT set-up in my integra.

If you are looking for a new clutch forget the 2100 go with the 2600...it grabs like a champ and can handle anything you throw at it.

[badboy93tsi]

How did you like your Fidanza flywheel with ACT2600? Any difference from stock flywheel? Which do you like better? Any regret not having stock flywheel? Any compromise when launching with Fidanza? What would you do if you given another chance to start from the beginning (stock or Fidanza)? Im about to install ACT2600 and not sure if I want Fidanza or not. I've done alot of research and most of the replies are mixed feelings about the Fidanza. Thanks!

[Boostd4]

DO IT!

I have the 2600 and fidanza. At the same time i removed my balance shafts, so with all that reduced spinning weight off my crank I expected a much harder car to drive.

In reality, the revs do NOT fall that much faster under 4k. Under 4k driving is 95% same as stock, I didn't notice any difference, so around town is just like it was.

Above 4k RPM you can tell the revs fall faster, not so fast to make driving difficult, just fast enough so you can shift quickly instead of waiting for the revs to fall.

As a side note, my 2nd gear synchro was crunching every drag pass with the stock flywheel. I've now made 6 passes with the fidanza with absolutely NO CRUNCH! The revs fall faster so that the engine speed is closer to the trans speed - the synchro does much less work now.

Also I gained .3s and 4mph in the traps just from the ACT/fidanza combo.

[flubyux2]

w/ the ACT2600/Fidanza, i also like the results. i heard stories on my RX7club that teh lightweight flywheels are horrible for stop-and-go driving and need more slipping to take off...but this isnt the case.

It definitly takes moer attn and concentration, its not forgiving at all. when i take off, its very quick engagement, and if i am being lazy, the car jumps forward and the car is kind of jerky. but thats only cuz the 2600 has real quick engagment. it takes more concentration to find the friction point and to cause it to slip in order to take off smoothly.

but, if youre in gear, and you punch it, the car Jerks forward like its ready to take off. its ALOT more responsive to throttle input.

launching it isnt any worse than before, it just takes a little slippage so it doent bog. But our car stills comes out the hole like a scalded cat, tires-a-blazin.

You have to pump the gas, and rev the motor. this spools the turbo, and when the light drops, just start slippin the clutch while feeding it moer throttle. youll get the feel for it...youll think the world was comin to an end when you get it right.

[badboy93tsi]

What do you mean by "the world is coming to an end when I get it right?"

I dont want to sacrify launching off the line for fast spools up. Would the Fidanza prevent me from getting consistents 1.7s sixty-foot?

[Boostd4]

Hell no!

The fidanza helps you get LOWER 60's.. turbo spools faster, as motor turns faster (or more easily).

You just have to launch at a *slightly* higher RPM. I think I changed from launching at 4500 to now launching at 5000.

I have a 1G AWD full weight, no balance shafts and after a month of driving with the fidanza, I don't know its there. There really isn't anything to get used to... you have to give it a HAIR more gas from a stop sign, but you get used to it in 5 minutes and I don't even remember a difference from stock, cuz it just isn't that different.

[DSM Vice]

Originally posted by Boostd4
Hell no!

The fidanza helps you get LOWER 60's.. turbo spools faster, as motor turns faster (or more easily).


Oh crap he said it...here comes the 4 page debate. I'm staying out of this one.:o

[flubyux2]

if your car is light, and you have power, you wont sacrifice your 60' times.

I have the same setup w/ no BS, but our car is gutted to 2900 lbs w/ driver...but it still peels all 4 tires w/ a co-driver, and it chirps them going into second...i dnot see what the big problem is.

I havent been to the strip since my installation, so i cant give any numbers to back up my claims, sorry.

But, you only need the Potential energy stored inside of a heavy flywheel to get you off the line. once your MOVING, all that weight hurts you cuz it sucks up more power to accerlate that heavy mass you call a "stock Flywheel"...and thats power you could be using to move your OTHER heavy mass you call a "DSM" down the 1320.

Like i said, if you have the POWER, you dont need a heavy flywheel.

[Boostd4]

Originally posted by DSM Vice


Oh crap he said it...here comes the 4 page debate. I'm staying out of this one.:o

Okay, you're right, the fidanza is GOOD and BAD for launching.

The heavier stock flywheel gives inertia which turns the gearset with more force thus letting you launch harder.

HOWEVER, if you lower the weight of the flywheel but spin it faster it has the same effect of equalling out the weight because of gravity (by centripital force?) . I know my physics are a little off, but the principle is correct.

That being said, once rolling, the weight of the flywheel plays AGAINST accelerating the car. My guess is it takes 10-20 feet (1st gear?) to get the car moving, then the less the flywheel weighs, the faster it will accelerate (the remaining majority of the 60 feet) - not to mention decreasing spool up time.

But all of this is nearly irrelevant anyway because all you have to do is spin the lightenned flywheel faster (how much exactly I don't know) and it will have the same inertia out of the hole as the stock flywheel.

You can't however take weight off a stock flywheel only AFTER you've launched :)

Enough book talk. All I know is that before the flywheel, my best 60 foot time was 1.83.

I just went to the track last week and got a 1.80 and my wastegate arms loose (slowing spool, its never totally sealed).

I changed nothing else. My 60's should have gotten worse with the flapper not sealing.. I didn't launch any different except 1000 rpm higher or so.

[flubyux2]

well what do you know, actual track proof.

Hes not the most educated person on physics, but its basically the jist of things.

If you pump the gas before you launch it, you can get the turbo spooled.. youll be able to tell, cuz everytime you pump it, youll hear the BOV just as you would if you shifted every time you let off the throttle; that means youre makin some boost. Then, all you gotta do is time it just right as the light drops, and feed the throttle on as you slip the clutch. Its just like trying to do Double Dutch. Mostly inner city children play that jump-rope game, so im not sure if many people here know of it... but its VERY difficult to time it right so that you can jump into the 2 twirling ropes w/o getting snagged up, and its hard to jump OUT w/o getting snagged too...such is the technique of properly launching a DSM :D

[moneypit]

get a 2600 installed this weekend. OMG, what a freakin' ordeal.
i had access to a lift. i can't imagine doing that job on my back. i vow never again. next time, i'll pay someone to do the install. i still need to break it in. i also did transmission, transfer case, and rear main seals with a new clutch master and slave cylinder. if i'm gonna do the job, i'm gonna to "everything" right the first time so i don't have to do it again. battery also died. had to replace it to.

[flubyux2]

Oh, you baby!!!

I did mine in 7 hours, pulled an all nighter. And it was the FIRST time i ever done it. I had a lift too, and i had fun the whole time. It helps build self confidence too. I did my clutch, flywheel and a new trans. we also gravity bled the whole clutch system. It was pretty fun. Id do it again. I think an FWD would be harder cuz you ahve to rig a way to support the engine since you have to take out like the front, back, and pass mounts. I think ill stick w/ AWD.

I like the idea that i saved myself a crap load of money... think abouit that: 7hrs @ $45 = $315 labor costs at least

[JL_90AWD]

I had a ACT2100# for ~8K miles which ran flawless and ended up selling it to someone (pp and disk looked new) when I put in my 2600# and Fidanza FW in last month.

Where the pedal effort on the 2100# feels stock.. the 2600# lets you know it's there. Still it's not as heavy as my old Mustang SVO's clutch.

I've yet to launch the 2600# (500miles and counting).. but the 2100# held like a pitbull to my ~300hp.. enough to sacrifice my old 3-bolt and center diff :( .

[flubyux2]

held like a pitbull to my ~300hp.. enough to sacrifice my old 3-bolt and center diff

Amen, i feel your pain. I launched my car on WET pavement and still managed to snap an axle on my 3bolt. Almost burned up my Center diff when the front tires started to spin like mad... had to back off and limp to the nearest gas station. Turns out i snapped the splined end that goes into the diff, so when i drove, the 2 broken ends ground against eachother and made so much debris that my whole rear end had to be junked...

Those damn ACT's bite pretty good, let me tell you... especially if i can still break shit on WET PAVEMENT!