A generic manual boost controller. [Archive] - DSM Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum: DSMtalk.com

: A generic manual boost controller.


shazamtsi
03-07-2001, 04:31 PM
While looking on dsmtrader, I found a guy selling a manual boost controller for $40 to the door. Now he says its easy to install, and that it won't be affected by the weather. Should I try for a cheap part or just wait to get a JBC manual boost controller?

TechT
03-07-2001, 08:19 PM
Get the Joe P MBC.I just ordered one Tuesday and it will be here tomorrow or Friday.

gsxalex
03-07-2001, 09:11 PM
I know several people who use the joeP. They are very good controlers, and have a reputation to boot.

MoBoost
03-08-2001, 10:25 AM
Boost controller is not of a complicated part ... just don't end up with one of those fish-tank types ...

shazamtsi
03-08-2001, 11:41 AM
So I looked up the Joe P on boostcontroler.com, and it doesn't say anything about what rating its good for, or how its aadjusted. I mean do you turn a scrw and just watch the boost gauge?

A.D.
03-08-2001, 03:43 PM
Turn a screw and watch the gauge, that's how I set mine! For about $10, if I remember right, I made my own MBC and it works like a charm. They're really not difficult to do. I wonder why more people don't do it and save some money.

AWDriver
03-12-2001, 01:56 AM
I made one for $1.49.....that's right its small,plastic and boost steady.Very unnoticable under the hood,can't beat that.

92awdLaser
03-13-2001, 05:13 PM
Could you please tell us what parts you used, how you assembled them into the MBC, how you adjust the boost, and what kinda pressure you can run steady with? Thanks!

Jehu
03-14-2001, 02:00 PM
The VFAQ page gives pretty good instructions. Basically, the spring stiffness you choose will determine what boost range the controller will work at. Eg. a stiff spring will be able to hold high pressure's but will be VERY sensitive, ie a quarter turn might change boost by 5-6psi. A softer spring will make it easier to adjust, but will limit your maximum boost potential. Just make sure you get the finest pitch screw you can and you'll have better adjustability. Have fun!
Oh, and I'd go with a smaller bleeder hole that the 1/16th specified in the VFAQ. I used the head of a mechanical pencil, 0.5mm, to serve as my bleed hole.

A.D.
03-14-2001, 03:52 PM
http://www.cqc.com/~adrian/boostcontroller.jpg
This is a pic of the one I made. I don't know if this will help you any, but it might give you an idea of how mine turned out.

AWDriver
03-14-2001, 04:58 PM
Ok here's my secret it's a one piece shut-off valve for lawn sprinkler.you install this between wastegate actuator and turbo output elbow vac.hoses,Adjusting this is very sensitive,turn it slowly by 1mm at a time clockwise(boost up).I set my boost @16psi(VDO gauge)You can buy this at HOME DEPOT the part #61027W and the UPC code is 46878 61027 ....happy boosting.

shazamtsi
03-14-2001, 11:46 PM
Thanks for the picture that helps, but what hoses are those? What are they called? They don't look like the ones on the car did you put on extra ones?

A.D.
03-15-2001, 05:44 AM
They are 1/4 inch vacuum hoses from the auto parts store.

A.D.
03-15-2001, 04:12 PM
I took some better pics of the controller today.

This is a close up of it out of the car:
http://www.cqc.com/~adrian/boostcontroller2.jpg

This is an exploded view:
http://www.cqc.com/~adrian/boostcontroller1.jpg

jsegala
03-15-2001, 08:59 PM
where is the vfaq on how to make one?

jsegala
03-15-2001, 09:11 PM
A.D.

i like your set up better than the vfaq, i just found it, could you possible post the names of each part there, so it will make my trip to the hardware stoe much quicker

A.D.
03-17-2001, 12:46 PM
I want to Ace hardware today and got the names and numbers for the fittings.

46961 - 1/4HB x 1/4 MPT Barb $.69 (you need 2)
42049 - 1/4 pipe tee $1.99
41274 - 1/4 hex plug $.55

I didn't get the numbers for the spring, bearings, nut or bolt. I get those parts from the factory where I work. ;)
For the bolt, I just picked out one that was a little bigger than the hole in the hex plug so that when you drill and tap the plg, the bolt will fit and thread through. The nut obviously will be determined by the bolt. The bearings I used fit down in the threaded end of the barb, and don't move too much side to side. They might be 1/4 inch, but I can't remember. The spring will be the biggest variable. I found one that the bearing would sit on, and not fall through the coils. I know this description is vague, but keep in mind when I buit the first one I was just mixing and matching parts until I found the fit that I liked. I have a large selection of hardware at the factory to work from and just started scrounging around. Hope this helped you out at least a little bit!

A.D.
03-22-2001, 05:57 AM
I finally remembered to dig around some more at work today, and found out the sizes on the nut, bolt and bearing. The nut and bolt are both 3/8, and the bearing is a 5/16. The spring has roughly a 5/16 coil diameter, and it's about "1-"1.25 long. Hope this helps, sorry it took so long to get back on the subject!