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imfamous crankwalk

6K views 30 replies 15 participants last post by  nvrplay2ty 
#1 ·
whats up guys. so i have a 95 talon awd and the other day i fired it up push the clutch in and here a ticking ive never herd. i talked to a few people they said chech for crankwalk. yesterday i went out popped the tire off didnt even need a feeler gauge i can pull my crank out and push back in about a sixteenth of an inch:mad: so now i have a few question im hoping no one is going to give me crap about. 1 can i put new bearings and crank in while the motors in the car? 2. how far is too far i leave for boot camp in three months will it last. 3. i have a spare motor and trans from a 95 talon i used to own would it be easier to just swap it all out? Someone please help me out :confused:
 
#2 · (Edited)
Most/all engines have end play. If they didn't, they would seize. 1/16" doesn't sound bad.

I don't believe a ticking sound is a symptom of crank walk.

I do know that making a hard left with the clutch pressed in the beginning of the turn, then letting it out halfway though is a way to check. If it doesn't come up like normal, you have cw.


The sound is probably something in the bellhousing. Could be throw out bearing (aka clutch release bearing), clutch disk, pressure plate, or bolts coming loose on the flywheel, or the bolts that hold the flywheel to the crank.

OR possibly something inside of the transmission.

OR it could be your lack of respect for rule #7 causing the DSM Gods to frown upon you.
 
#7 ·
Most/all engines have end play. If they didn't, they would seize. 1/16" doesn't sound bad.
1/16" = .0625" of an inch, Endplay tolerance is likely in the area of .012" (dont have a manual in front of me) so yes, that is very, very bad.

New bearings will not fix it as if it has gotten that bad then the journal surfaces on the crank are surely bad in addition to whatever the underlying issue is that caused the cw in the first place still being present.
 
#3 ·
Remind me of rule seven please its been a while since i have had to post. Im not 100% sure but i im pretty positive that the ticking is the crank sensor plate rubbing when i push the clutch in and the crank slides out. Im going to pull the belts and pully tomorrow to check it out. Should I drop the oil pan and look for shavings while im at it.
 
#5 ·
"7. YOU MUST post in plain, discernable, correctly spelled and capitalized English! Repeated failure to do so will result in disciplinary action. Threads that contain posts with poor grammar (regardless of whose it is) are subject to being locked."




You don't have to drop the pan to check for shavings. Drain your oil into an open drain pan. Swirl your finger around in it, pull finger out, check. Do it a few more times if you like.

I guess pull the timing cover and check the shit out.

I would start by having someone sit in the car and push the clutch in and out. While they are doing this, you can try to locate where the sound is coming from. Remember to tuck in any loose clothing, including draw strings on hooded jackets. A long screwdriver makes for a nice stethoscope once you figure out what side of the engine it is coming from.
 
#6 ·
Sorry about rule seven. Im doing this from an Iphone and i cant spell or type for crap anyway so i will do the best i can. I will check it all out tomorrow and i will use a feeler gauge and get the exact measurement of the play and post. Wish me luck because it doesnt sound to good.
 
#8 ·
Put a 1/2" extension in the pull and jack the car up. Turn the wheel left and push the clutch in while someone holds/checks the extension. A little movement is fine but not too much. Drive it in a parking lot and see if the clutch drops to the floor on left hand turns. Worst case scenario, drop the pan and replace the thrust bearing. Have had it done on one of my 2g's and racked up 100k afterwards with no problems.
 
#9 ·
Jack your car up & measure your end play. Disconnect the slave cylinder from the bell housing and gently let it hang. This take the pressure from the clutch away from pushing on the flywheel. Then go to the front of your motor and push/pull on the crank pulley. It will slide back & forth easily and you should be able to determine if your crank is actually moving 1/16". If it really is your crank & block are toast. Easiest & fastest way to deal with this would be to swap your motors. My crank walked.063", ate completely through the trust bearing and chewed both surfaces of crank and main journal. Mitsubishi Regional replace with a 99 year short block. BTW-FSM specs end play standard values at .002/.007" and max limit of .0098".
 
#11 ·
I doubt you actually have CW. Everyone is so quick to claim they have it and so few actually do. Plus since you have a 2g your car would most likely not run due to the crank sensor rubbing the trigger plate. The only way to be sure is to properly check the crank end play. Everything else is just pissing in the wind. Here is a video on how to properly check end play.

 
#12 ·
So i come to the conclusion if you can measure the endplay of your crank with a ruler its most likely to much. So with that said got a couple more questions. Whats the best way to pull a motor out through the bottom or top? When i pulled the motor from my previous talon the frame was for the most part gone so we just cut the whole front end off. I want to do this the right way this time and i can get whatever tools i need just need a little help from you guys with more experience than a guy who has no garage and does things in my drivway in a small town ten miles from the nearest part store. thanks for your help guys
 
#13 ·
This depends on your tool set. If you have a crane or hoist, then through the top is the best way to go. But if you don't have a crane/hoist then you would probably be best off going through the bottom. Disassemble the sub frame and suspension then drop the engine and trans straight out. I would search around on Craigslist for a shop crane as it will make the job 100x easier.
 
#14 ·
I can get it out of the top with the tractor. Yes i said tractor i live out in the hills and thats how i got the last one out. i just didnt know if it was easier out of the bottom. Ive got most of what i need to take off already off tomorrow is the big day to swap. Wish me luck guys
 
#16 ·
I have taken a couple pics and will get a few more as I go. I just have to have the girlfriend upload them on her computer later tonight. I might even take a video of the tractor pull because it should be kind of interesting. To pull it from the top can you do it all as one unit tranny and all it looks tight getting past the left side motor mount. If not can you do it as one unit through the bottom?
 
#19 ·
Good idea I'll grab one from work. Do all the transfer cases have the same gear ratio or should I use the one that was on my replacement motor? I'm basically putting the car back to stock so it's drivable and when I get out of boot camp I'll be on here asking for a parts list to build this thing up right.
 
#23 ·
It's the middle bearing that the crankshaft rides on.
 
#24 ·
So got another question. I have the stock turbo that was on the replacement motor and I have a 16g turbo from eBay that was on the crank walk motor. Wich one do you guys suggest putting in? I was thing the stock one would be better for the fact that it was on this motor before and Im kinda putting everything back to stock including the clutch. So just shoot me some ideas please thanks
 
#25 ·
If you haven't ran the 16g, stock turbo. (14b or t25, whichever you have)

If you have ran it, and you have the supporting mods, 16g.

I will advise you to make sure the feed and return lines are cleaned out before installing, if your not buying new. If you are, you can get away with re-using the oil return line, as long as its in good condition.
 
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