DSMTalk Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum banner

TurboXS High Performance Manual Boost Controller

12K views 60 replies 24 participants last post by  doug 
#1 ·
This is my third MBC. I started with a Hallman MBC (90$, from Buschur) which got the job done. I was pushing very little air on a basically stock system. It spooled quickly and spiked about 2psi before leveling off.

However, it was UGLY. It looked like something from Home Depot. So, I replaced it with a TurboXS Standard MBC (70$, Modacar) which was much more attractive. Same performance, looked better, and it was cheaper.

These days, I now push a LOT more air, and 2PSI boost spikes are not acceptable. I had pretty much given up to the fact that I would need an electronic boost controller to get rid of the spikes.

NOT SO!

I got a TurboXS High Performance Boost Controller ($129, http://www.turboxs.com) and its AWESOME! It has *two* adjustable valves on it - One ball and spring valve and one bleeder valve.

You set the ball and spring valve tight to maxamize spool up time, and then open the bleeder valve up to get rid of boost spikes. I get FAST spool (with a ball bearing turbo and this mbc, i spool as fast as I did with the T25) and NO BOOST SPIKES AT ALL. Boost shoots up to 1.1 bar and sits there. I LOVE IT! Here is a link to their web site, which has more detailed info about the MBC and some pics.

http://www.turboxs.com/High Performance Boost Controller.htm
 
See less See more
#2 ·
Just got the TURBOXS HPMBC for Christmas. Have not tried it out yet but it was easy to install even though I had to run to ACE hardware and get some extra vac hose and a T connector.

The directions to put it in say to run off the Wastegate actuator bla bla....but there is another little paragraph saying if running over 15psi, it is recommended to T off the BOV vac line running to the intake man/ blocking off the nipple on the stock boost control(where the restictor is) and block off the nipple on the turbo housing. Is this correct/ better?

Anyone useing th TURBOXS HPMBC, what is the trick with both valves to get the best performance.
 
#3 ·
Where to tap for the MBC

Running from the turbo compressor outlet to the MBC means less boost spikes but slower spool up. The reason being.. Pressure is generated AT the compressor housing. If you have the MBC attached there, it will see the pressure increase faster than if you T off of the BOV, because that pressure source is from the intake manifold.

So, T'ing off of the BOV will give you faster spool because it takes longer for the pressure to make its way up to the intake manifold.

I suggest doing it from the Turbo compressor. Boost spike is not acceptable to me, since I want to run as much boost as possible. A 2-3 psi spike puts me at 21-22psi and that is not good.

As for setting the HPBC.. I set it how the instructions indicate. From there only minor adjustment was required. Basically you want the ball and spring valve as closed as possible. Open it up until you are within 1-2PSI of where you want to be, and then open up the bleeder valve until you are just right.

The more closed the ball and spring valve, the faster you will spool up.
 
#8 ·
Turbo xs standard vs. high perf

I was looking at the standard one (basically due to price) because I am just starting the mods to my car. Since you have had both, do you think that Its worth the extra $60 for the high perf. or would the standard be ok to start with? By the way...do you still have the standard one?:)


Mike
 
#9 ·
The standard one is fine to start with. It is cheap, good looking, and easy to adjust. All good things to have in an MBC. The difference is that it (and every other mbc besidea the TurboXS High Performance MBC) allows small 1-2 PSI boost spikes.

This is acceptable early on in the game, when you have just started modding, and things like that.. but once you have an upgraded turbo, fuel system, and a fuel management system.. then you dont want the spikes.

Yes, I still have mine but a friend is currently borrowing it. I like to have extra parts around in case something breaks, etc. I still have 2 mbcs, 3 spare bovs, a k&n air filter, and a set of agx adjustable shocks :) You never know when you are going to need something!
 
#11 ·
I know this is a strage concept to some people.. but I used the instructions it came with. :)

Install it using the instructions and go for a drive. See how much boost you are getting. Use the brass adjustment to increase boost to within 1psi of where you want it to be and then use the blue adjustment to fine tune it.

If you add too much boost using the blue adjustment, you will get inconsistent boost levels in the higher gears.

Did you notice this thread was originally started 11 months ago? Woo! :)
 
#12 ·
yeah for REAL! old post.. but that's cool..

...its good to go back and USE the old threads for info instead of making up new ones that ask the same thing, man your thread has been alive for a long time!

On that note, ProjectGSX, do you notice much change in boost with different temperatures? If i remember correctly you live somewhere out West so i guess nothing too drastic would happen, weather-wise. I live in VA and some mornings will be cold as crap and then it warms up later in the day. I'm wondering if the high performance boost controller would help with its two tuning knobs.. TurboXS is a local company for me, would be cool to check them out but i notice the controller is a bit pricey :D.
 
#13 ·
Re: yeah for REAL! old post.. but that's cool..

CrankWalk said:
[BOn that note, ProjectGSX, do you notice much change in boost with different temperatures? If i remember correctly you live somewhere out West so i guess nothing too drastic would happen, weather-wise. I live in VA and some mornings will be cold as crap and then it warms up later in the day. I'm wondering if the high performance boost controller would help with its two tuning knobs.. TurboXS is a local company for me, would be cool to check them out but i notice the controller is a bit pricey :D. [/B]
I do not notice a fluctuation in boost at different temperatures. I think a big part of boost control has to do with the wastegate, and the wastegate flapper. The XS Engineering turbo I have seems to have a very capable wastegate. The standard issue Mitsu turbo's are a little lacking in that category. Maybe try doing a larger flapper? Or porting the side of the housing so that the flapper can open all the way?
 
#14 ·
So...does anybody have those instructions available? I'd like to get a look at them so I can get mine set up correctly - I got it secondhand from a friend who did not have his instructions anymore.

If you could scan 'em in and send 'em my way, that'd be wonderful...

Thanks, anybody,

-J
 
#18 ·
99mmcgsx said:
Hey Brian....it's been awhile since you orginally posted this. Do you still feel the same about the controller? Any long-term problems or anything wierd?
Nope! This MBC has been GOLDEN.

I messed around with it, and found that it can do some pretty weird things if you do not adjust it properly. Since it has the primary ball and spring valve and then the secondary bleeder valve, you need to adjust the two in relation from each other. If you add too much boost with the bleeder valve, you will actually get more boost in the higher gears than you do in lower gears. Weird stuff.

It is worth the extra hassle of the initial configuration, though. I was able to get the turbo to spool faster and eliminated boost spikes.
 
#19 ·
Hey guys....well, we just installed the turboXS high performance boost controller. Got totally sick of the HKS EVC getting too fuzzy on me.
This thing, so far, is totally sweet. Really easy to install, and adjustment took about 10 minutes of driving/pulling over. Of course, I am using the autometer "guess-o-meter" boost guage, so who knows what actual boost I'm running. Says 18psi....
One thing that was odd is that my car sounds a bit different now. Kind of a deeper, more hollow sound which is definately better. I can't explain it, other than to say I must have had a boost leak or something with the HKS controller. All in all, we probably removed 4-5 ft. of vac lines by installing the TurboXS unit. We tried to short-route all the lines, and I even put little clamps on them because Im so sick of leaks.

I haven't logged yet, but so far this thing is sweet. Thanks for the review Brian...I'd recommend this to anybody.

By the way, one of my buddies in a new WRX hooked this up with me. I think he was trying to sabatoge the install while we were doing it....losing tools, throwing screws around. I guess he's just nervous. :D


J
 
#20 ·
Is this mbc only good for turbos other than the t-25, because mine is a total pain in the a$$ to set, it never stays where i set it at, i get massive spikes up to 22psi when i thought it was set at 15, and sometimes it seems like its set only in lower rpm range but then again gets a spike up to 18 in higher rpm before settling down to 15. Is the pre-install setting a must?? Or should i expect a spike with the t-25?? How did you guys preset your bc?? I really need help on this cause im getting sick of it and dont really want to spend the $$ for a new electronic one.
 
#21 ·
NeEmo6 said:
Is the pre-install setting a must?? Or should i expect a spike with the t-25?? How did you guys preset your bc??
I am going to answer yes to the first two questions. Pre-setting the HPBC is VERY important. In order for the HPBC to work properly, you need the two valves set in relation to one another. Otherwise it will act weird.

On top of that, I dont think you can avoid boost spikes on a T25. The turbo spools up SO fast. However, your spikes should not be more than 1, maybe 2psi. If you get larger spikes than that, something is wrong.

Also, make sure you did not hook up the HPBC backwards. When I first installed mine, I replaced a Hallman MBC. The TurboXS MBC's flow backwards compared to those, so I put it in backwards to start with.

My recommendation is to take the HPBC off of the car (leave the hoses in place) and put it back to the original settings. That means the top (bleeder valve, the blue one) setting should be ALL the way to the negative side and the side (ball and spring valve, the brass one) setting should be only in as far as it takes so that when you shake the unit you do not hear the ball bouncing around.

Then put it back on the car and go for a drive. If boost is still unstable, something is wrong. Either you installed it wrong or the unit is defective. If you think the unit is defective, call TurboXS and talk to them about it. They would rather replace your boost controller than have you call them and say your engine blew up because of crazy boost spikes.
 
#22 ·
Important note!!

All "ball and spring" type MBC's have a bleeder valve built into them, whether they advertise it or not. The TurboXS HPBC has one, but it is adjustable.

You should make sure that you never completely close the adjustable bleeder valve. The reason that it is there, is to bleed off the pressure left in the hose when the ball re-seats itself.

Picture this. You have the valve set for 12psi. You hit 14psi, the ball lifts, pressure fills the hose and hits the actuator. You let off of the gas, the ball re-seats, you still have 14psi worth of air in the vacuum hose, trapped between the MBC and the actuator. Without a bleed valve there, the air gets trapped and the wastegate flapper STAYS OPEN.

I learned this first hand on Sunday. :) Make sure the bleeder valve is atleast open a half turn.
 
#23 ·
a while back we installed the regular turbo xs mbc on a friends car. and it worked great except when we didnt need to set the boost (for the track or the occassional street race) it would shake totally loose and we would be pushing 22 + psi, did this happen to anyone else? the reason i ask is because it will be going on my car when i find one...
 
#24 ·
http://www.turboxs.com/High Performance Boost Controller.htm
The turbo xs can be purchased from here..

Currently im running just a KN air intake (im workin on mods yeah blha blha blah) my 1g bov is in the mail...
Here is my question..?

I have a friend who is big into modding his car (he got me hooked) any way...long story short how hard is the Turbo XS to install and set up? i want to do it alone and put bov/XS in with out him knowing and suprise him?
Thanks (in advance :) )
ps (yes i do have boost gauge so ha)
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top