When shifting from park to Drive (N to drive) it takes like 3 seconds or so and then it goes into drive hard. Is that normal for these cars or could something be up?
Goes into reverse fine
plugs, wires, fuel/oil filters and oil have been changed within the last 300 or so miles
Water pump and headgasket with head, timming belt and a few other things done within the last 3K
i got a spare IAC, could swap it out and see what happens (actaully have a near complete low mileage 4g63T setup) but change my mind on doin the swap so its all gettin sold. I just got this car (and a galant) about 2 weeks ago.
Im actually pretty new to the whole FWD import OHeverything scene. im more of the V8 sub mid 70s stuff. Did have an RX7 vert i traded for the above cars
Its got a pretty bad case of lifter tick as well, i heard swappin in 3g lifter will cure it?
Went out and took it for a ride and checked the trans fluid, Levels good just a touch below that top check hot line and there was a few little bubble in it. Still alot of vibration in gear (R and D)
what would it take/cost to change the trans fluid and filter in it if i took it in to a shop? IM in MN and its cold out otherwise id do it myself
all u need to do is unbolt the pan and the filter should be right there on the valve body so just unscrew it screw a new one on and install a new pan gasket and fill it up, (whatver u do, do NOT us rtv on the gasket)
im not sure how much u need. but look in you owners manual and it will tell u how much you need and what kind u need. (note: there is a diff between tranny fluideds so make sure u get the right one.) im pretty sure there isnt a drain plug so u will have to take the pain off to get the fuild out anyway. all of the fluid will drain when u take the pan off. this will allow u to get at the filter and change that aswell.
the easiest way to go would be to go to your mitsu dealer and order the filter, gasket and tranny oil. that way u get right filter/fluid/gasket. some of the part store ones dont work and i bet they prob dont sell Mitsubishi Diamond ATF. it may be alittle more expensive but a tranny rebuild costs alot more. once u have everything the job itself is really easy
well is that having them do a filter and pan gasket or a "tranny flush"? there is a differance. i mean if u do a filter/pan gasket/atf yourself it would save you the money they charge for labor.
I had Jiffy lube do mine and their price should be somewhere around $80-$100 -BUT- I don't particularly recomend them bcause that's not their main business plus they screwed that job up on me 1 time (presumably did it right the other time). I definately wouldn't go into a trans shop and ESPECIALLY not a frachised one because they're going to try and get you for a complete rebuild if at all possible. I do them myself now but if I was in your situation and had to bring it in I'd get the filter and pan gasket set on my own (make sure it's the right set) and bring it to a place like pep-boys or sears because their mechanics are plenty well equipped to do this simple job (unlke jiffy lube) but they have no interest in opening up your trans (like aamco) and won't jerk you arond time wise and cost wise (like mitsu dealers)
BUT make sure you if you're ordering a filter + gasket set on your own that you crawl under the car and line up the gasket with the outside of the pan to make sure you got the right one and if the gasket is good the fiter should be good especially if they came in a set. Also, I'd ask the guy doing the job to use a toque wrench on both the filter and pan bolts (provide him with the proper values) and I'd keep an eye out to make sure they're using the correct fluid (actualy you might want to supply your own) and MAKE SURE you check that fluid level within the 1st few miles of leaving the shop because it doesn't take much driving with either low or high fluid levels to do some serious damage and do a visual chk on the pan for leakage soon thereafter too.
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