There is a documented study out there about Royal Purple and the bearing relief the oil provides when compared to all other oils. I believe it is Royal Purple but I may be wrong. Amsoil is also a good brand.
I personally run Castrol Syntec full synthetic. If/when I rebuild my engine with forged internals I will run something different. Most of your known name brand oils will do just fine. When it comes to oil viscosity, you want a synthetic for colder climates.
Last time I was home I noticed they have "high mileage" synthetic oil now... I have been running synthetics since (I think) the late nineties. I can remember when they started coming out with "high mileage" oils but now I wonder if I should switch to the high mileage synthetic... I have about 87,000 miles on a 97 GST. No aftermarket internals yet (Cams sitting on a shelf... ).
I also should say that my car sits for months at a time. I use stabil in the fuel, but not sure what I should do for engine oil...
One last thing to through out there: Lucas oil treatment? Thoughts? Maybe I should use the high mileage synthetic AND lucas?
The only oil I will use any more is Brad Penn. After years of running Mobil 1 and having it darken and black after a couple hundred miles, I prefer putting 3k on this oil and still have it come out looking as if it was just put in.
It is Dino oil, but I have switched 4 cars over now from synthetic with no ill effects.
I've run Wallyworld Supertech oil in my Talon with over 198,000 miles on the clock. As long as the oil has the proper API (American Petroleum Institute) rating, it will work fine provided you keep it at the proper level and changed at regular intervals.
Once I do my full rebuild, I'll most likely run a full synthetic.
WOW. I ran supertech several cars ago but I would always change it early, and I couldn't imagine using it in a car I actually LIKED.
I don't think your 198,000 well maintained miles on supertech isn't the norm. Man, you should get Wallyworld to sponser you at this point! You should at least get free oil and service by now!
Given the fact synthetic oils are "better" you still have to remember that those did not exist when most our cars were made. So for someone to say they would not run anything other than sythetic even in a beter, LOL, is silly. Your oil lubes and keeps your internals clean. Thats all. So long as its clean oil, changed regularly, and keeps its from being metal to metal, as in the correct amount and weight,its good for your engine.
Sythetics are made for longer life, and becasue of that it does tend to protect better. But dont let the commercials tell you different, oil is still oil for its use.
Besides if your car is dirtying your oil so bad, you have other problems. If its sealed and running like it should, why would you be getting such dirty oil so soon?
I remember my friend that ran the service shop at Walmart convinced me to start using supertech saying it was the same as quaker state, etc. Eventually I got my eclipse and started using synthetics... (I remember not thinking even if supertech is quaker state, quaker state isn't that great...)
Have I been wasting my money all this time on synthetics? I am not sure after reading such solid endorsement from Red for supertech.
How about THE BEST FILTER? I have had knowledgable guys tell me the Fram filter sucks... I would be willing to fork over extra cash for a better filter. Recomendations?
Do they make a magnetic oil plug for a 2G GST to collect metal fragments like they have for hondas? I REALLY want one of those...
Well I'm not really a fan of Quagmire State, nor Fram, the oil filter like a screen door. I've read they went downhill after being acquired by Allied Signal. Either way, I was running a Super Tech filter but they stopped carrying the 3950, now it's the 7317 or something like that. All I know is I cleaned Wallyworld out of their smaller 4g63 filter. I think they're better quality than a Fram.
A good API rated (usually turbo has a higher API oil requirement) oil and decent filter changed reliably will take you a long way. I always say never let your engine run low on oil. I believe our engines are a bit more oil level sensitive than maybe something else. I believe low oil is the land of spun bearings.
All this does bear in mind I'm quite particular when I repair stuff. I'm also very clean when I work. Grit and debris are the enemy.
Wix, puralator, or straight from the dealer. Only filters I use in my "good cars". My beater I use the cheap stuff, but I can say I have never had an issue from that. So it may just be all in my head. Keep it clean, and I really dont see how one could go wrong.
I like castrol, just because I like the colors on the bottel. Also have used mobile1, and quakerstate synthetics. I felt good with both of them.
Wix or Mitsu oil filters. I only run two types of oils in my car: Mobil Clean 5000 or Castrol GTX. Both of those are non-synthetic and in 10W-30 viscosity. I have been doing that for YEARS with no problems. Most important thing is to have clean oil in your car. I rarely go over 1,000-1,500miles before I change my oil. Oil is cheap, engines are not!
I like royal purple or mobil1 personally. I also like to either use mobil1, purolator pure one, or bosch filters. Fram has been known to have a paper element that will start to break down and start throwing chunks of paper filter element into your engine.
On another note, you shouldn't switch a high milage car that always used dino oil to synthetic. Because synthetics have cleaners in them and they will clean out old gunk from your enigne that was sealing leaks and you'll start burning oil.
This isnt the case if the engine had synthetic all its life tho.
If its a high milage engine id stick with dino oil or a semi synthetic if I dont know the history of the car.
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