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Mbc!

1K views 18 replies 3 participants last post by  2gdsmGST 
#1 ·
Ive read through the different threads on hooking up a MBC. However, Im still not sure. I know that I need a T-valve to hook the line from the bov to the mbc its the wastegate that is throwing me. There is a hose coming directly from my wastegate that connects two other hoses with a t-valve. What do I do? Do I just disconnect the hose from the wastegate and block the nipple on the t-valve. Then hook a hose from the mbc to the wastegate? Please help. :confused:
 
#2 ·
heres the run down, see that little hose coming from the turbo? it tees into the waste gate acuator. pull that off. then stick a peice of hose onto the nipple coming from the turbo and plug it off. then run a hose onto the actuator to the boost controller. then on the other port on the boost controller, tee into the line that runs from the bov to the intake. make sure the little arrow on the boost controller is pointing toward the turbo.
 
#7 ·
2fasteclipse said:
well you do hook it to the waste gate actuator. but not a line strait from the bov line to the waste gate!! that will blow your shit up!!
How will that blow it up? It will make him run at the lowest/safest boost level which is the spring rating of the actuator.

2gdsmGST :

1. What brand mbc do you have? Is it a bleeder type like a TurboXS or ball/spring type like a Joe P?

2. Are you still on the T25?
 
#9 ·
2fasteclipse said:
well if i am not mistaking, if you hook up the actuator strait to a vacuum line it will let the turbo spool untill it peaks. the silinoid is what controlls how much vacuum it will allow.
No, the factory bcs is basically a non-adjustable bleeder type boost controller. It bleeds off part of the pressure signal going to the actuator causing it to open the flapper slightly later (later than if the pressure source was connected to directly to the actuator) resulting in higher boost level. To achieve all out boost, you need to leave the actuator nipple open. Without any pressure signals, the actuator will never open resulting in all out boost.
 
#14 ·
2gdsmGST said:
Sorry,the brand isnt Joe P. but it is a ball and spring not a bleeder.
1. Remove the hose from the turbo, Tee, hose to actuator, hose to bcs, hose from bcs to your intake pipe near the mas. Cap off the nipple on the intake pipe and both nipples on the bcs but leave the bcs plugged in.

2. Connect a hose from the turbo (compressor) nipple to the nipple opposite but in line to the adjustment knob on the mbc. Connect a hose from the bottom nipple on the mbc to the actuator and you're done. Top left corner mount for the radiator fan is a good place to mount your mbc and the rule of thumb is, the shorter the hose the better.

Also, Many will argue that taking the pressure source from the bov line is better because it's measuring the manifold pressure when in reality, you will be adjusting the mbc according to your boost gauge anyway (which is measuring the manifold pressure) so it really doesn't matter. In fact there are two advantages when taking pressure source from turbo:

1. Shorter route which can help prevent boost spikes.

2. In a bad case of boost leaks, it will help prevent over boosting the turbo.
 
#18 ·
2gdsmGST said:
Oldman, thanks a lot! How much boost can I run with my setup?
You're welcome, with upgraded bov (you better not be venting ;) ) 2fasteclipse is right about 15-16 psi with stock fuel pump and 450s, T25 will run out of air anyway after 5k. When you upgrade you fuel system, it will probably be time for a bigger and more efficient turbo.

With that said, only a logger can tell for sure what boost level is safe given that every car is different and some older components might not be working optimally.
 
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