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How to? Do it yerself cv joint replace?

14K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  barney 
#1 ·
Anybody have good instructions on a poor guy trying to do my own CV Joints?

Is it a hard job, or can the weekend mechanic do it? I have worked on engines before, but not familiar at all with suspension stuff, so please be descriptive in where stuff is lol :)
 
#3 ·
I have been told that those split replacement boots do not hold up well. If you go that route (any parts place has them), make sure the boot surface is perfectly clean before you seal it up. If you are going to pay to have it done, order an axle from www.raxles.com, and just pay the labor. It actually comes out about the same overall as if you just have the boot replaced, and you get a whole new axle!
 
#4 ·
Yeah, don't use a split boot. They are intended for emergency use only (VW may be the exception).

There is a complete section on this at www.vfaq.com - look under the drivetrain section. There's a couple of things I would add. First, mark all the parts with a punch before disassembly so they can be indexed the same at assembly for balance. Second, I don't recommend leaving the inner end of the axle on the tranny. Its just too hard to work on that way.
 
#6 ·
venom42 said:
I have been told that those split replacement boots do not hold up well. If you go that route (any parts place has them), make sure the boot surface is perfectly clean before you seal it up. If you are going to pay to have it done, order an axle from www.raxles.com, and just pay the labor. It actually comes out about the same overall as if you just have the boot replaced, and you get a whole new axle!
So if I order my axels from these guys it will come with all four rubber boots I need also? I need to get mine done and I might as well have new axels if you say it's about the same $ since my mechanic is doing the work. Thanks, Chris > Old post but plz reply. Thx
 
#8 ·
Yeah, replacing the entire axle is MUCH easier and is worth the cost. Wherever you buy from, make sure it has a lifetime warranty on it. I've had to take an axle or two back to Autozone or wherever in the past due to another problem causing its demise, and they gave me new ones with no questions asked. It's nice only having to pay for replacement parts once.
 
#9 ·
Well, I'm not doing the work my mechanic is. So, I might just replace the boots since mine aren't making that much tick/crunch sound quite yet. I looked at them yesterday and all of them are dried up and cracking. So, I'm assuming it would be cheaper to just replace the boots and not the Axels. Wouldn't it end up costing about $100 or more extra to replace the axles also? Thanks again! Chris
Heck, I'm just surprised I was able to put 33K on my car before needed them done since I bought it at 99K.
 
#10 ·
The whole point of us telling you to replace the axles is because the labor on replacing the boots is longer than the labor to replace the axles. So the cost is going to be about the same (or at least close) either way. If you have to pay the same, why not get a whole new axle instead of just new boots?
 
#11 ·
venom42 said:
The whole point of us telling you to replace the axles is because the labor on replacing the boots is longer than the labor to replace the axles. So the cost is going to be about the same (or at least close) either way. If you have to pay the same, why not get a whole new axle instead of just new boots?
Ah, thanks for the clarification on this venom42! I'm going to order mine from www.raxles.com since they have all the boots and seem like good quality. Unless you guys think I should just get some at autozone? Thanks again.
 
#12 ·
The autozone ones are fine. I think they're like 60 or 80 bucks. And like I said, the lifetime warranty can save you that amount of money again the next time. I had the bolts for the mounting bracket come off on the driver's front axle and it ruined it, but they gave me a new one (after having it only three months) no questions asked. Saved me $60+ right there. I don't know if raxles has a lifetime warranty or not, but there's nothing wrong with the Autozone or Advanced Auto or whatever ones.
 
#13 ·
Although I am sure the Autozone ones are fine, Raxles only uses new outer joints. I can almost assure you that the Autozone ones are reconditioned. If the price is close, go with Raxles. If they are way cheaper, then go with Autozone. If I remember correctly, they were pretty close in price when I did one of mine.
 
#14 ·
I've replaced boots a couple of times now - one axle three times. My CV joints don't have any play at all after 90,000 miles - they are just like new. I can't see sending in an axle like this as a core because the boot is shot. Just my opinion :dunno:
 
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