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Rack and pinion removal on 2g? sucks

22K views 10 replies 7 participants last post by  Gamble 
#1 ·
How do you remove this damn thing. I have the tie rods, the brackets and all the lines off. And the bolt that holes the rack to the pivot piece. I got it to drop off that steering knuckle about a half inch. It won't drop anymore, it keeps hitting the subframe. I loosened the front sway bar also.
I dont have the tcase or downpipe off yet, but they don't seem to be in the way. I even put a pry bar from the top and hit it with a hammer, no luck.
 
#2 ·
Oh fuck me. Mine has a little bit of play in it and I was hesitant about changing it for this exact reason.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Alldata says:


REMOVAL

CAUTION: Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) .

* Before removal of steering gear box, center front wheels and remove ignition key. Failure to do so may damage SRS clock spring and render SRS system inoperative, risking serious driver injury.

1. Drain power steering fluid.
2. Remove stabilizer bar.
3. Follow removal steps outlined in illustration. NOTE: Removal service points as follows:

1. Brake fluid reservoir assembly removal (1). Disconnect the brake fluid level sensor connector and remove the brake fluid reservoir assembly from the dash panel with the hose still attached. NOTE: Place the removed reservoir assembly in a place where it will not be a hindrance when removing and installing the power steering gear box, and tie it with a cord.
2. A/C compressor removal (2). Disconnect the A/C compressor connector and remove the compressor from the compressor bracket with the hose still attached. NOTE: Place the removed A/C compressor in a place where it will not be a hindrance when removing and installing the brake fluid reservoir assembly, and tie it with a cord. CAUTION: Do not damage the joint between the A/C hose and the A/C pipe.




3. Tie rod end and knuckle disconnection (6). CAUTION:

1. Tie the cord of the special tool to a nearby part.
2. Loosen the nut but do not remove it.




4. Gear box assembly removal (11).

1. Remove the installation section (vehicle side) of the compression lower arm left side. CAUTION: The compression lower arm should be suspended so that undue force is not applied to the ball joint.
2. Remove the connection between the gear box assembly and joint assembly, and remove the gear box assembly from the crossmember at the left side. CAUTION: Be careful not to damage the bellows and the tie rod end dust cover when removing the gear box assembly.

INSPECTION

1. Check the rubber parts for cracks and breakage.
2. Check dust cover. If there are any cracks in or damage to the dust cover, replace the tie rod end and the dust cover.




3. Total pinion torque check. Using the special tools, rotate the pinion gear at the rate of one rotation in approximately 4 to 6 seconds to check the total pinion torque. Standard value: 0.7 - 1.4 Nm (6 - 12 inch lbs.) [Change in torque: 0.4 Nm (3 inch lbs.) ] NOTE: When measuring, remove the bellows from the rack housing. Measure the pinion torque through the whole stroke of the rack. If the measured value is not within the standard range, first adjust the rack support cover, and then check the total pinion starting torque again. If the total pinion torque cannot be adjusted to within the standard range by adjusting the rack support cover, check the rack support cover, rack support spring, rack support and replace any parts if necessary.
4. Tie rod swing resistance check.

1. Give 10 hard swings to the tie rod.




2. Measure the tie rod swing resistance with a spring scale. Standard value: 7.8 - 27 N (1.8 - 6.2 lbs.) [1.5 - 4.9 Nm (13 - 43 inch lbs.) ]
3. When the measured value exceeds the standard value, replace the tie rod assembly.
4. When the measured value is lower than the standard value, check that the ball joint swings smoothly without excessive play. If so, it is possible to use that ball joint.

INSTALLATION
Installation in reverse order as removal, noting the following:

1. Install stabilizer bar.
2. Adjust drive-belt tension.
3. Power steering fluid supplying.
4. Power steering fluid line bleeding. See: Service and Repair
5. Steering wheel position with wheels straight ahead checking.
6. Front wheel alignment adjustment.
 
#4 ·
So you have to remove the cross member but not the transfer case or downpipe, seems odd. Same with the compression arm, it's not even in the way. And according to this you don't have to remove the sway bar?
I'm so confused on why alldata is like that, the subframe is in the way. I had a long pry bar and a deadblow hammer and it won't budget more than 1/2"
 
#9 ·
We took out the center bolt on the tranny mount and rear motor mount. Then took out the back bolt on the cross member and took off only the front bolts on downpipe and left the tcase in.
Got the new one in with new tie rod ends. Apparently the rack was changed out on my car before because it had a Koyo sticker on it. Who knew koyo made those.

I HIGHLY recommend removing the downpipe and transfer case all the way though, so much easier.
I have to get an alignment first then I'll test it out.
 
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