I like it. I may need to move the nozzle from the IM up a bit. Not sure how even the distribution is midway down the manifold. But if that side typically gets more air, then the thought was it will be happier with more meth.
I have maft pro so I kinda had to go my own way. I wasn't up for spending aquamist money either. I have an account with Labonte Motor Sports (they make all the kits Snow sells and rebadges) so I went this route.
Right now I'm spiking -20* WW fluid with HEET to get the desired meth ratio. It works out pretty well, most -20* fluid is 30-35% meth, HEET is 98% meth. I gallon, 12 oz bottle of heet... ends up being almost 40% meth / water.
I'm running a fairly large nozzle, and it really sucks the shit down. I mean really sucks it down. Makes sense with how I drive.
With maft pro, this shit gets a lot easier, another reason I went with the VC-100 controller. Its adjustable up to 100psi, instead of 29psi like the VC-25/VC-25D. I also do not have a MAF. So, the VC-25D (which is the normal mitsu go to controller, varying onset by maf readings and boost) was not an option either. I think its only like $10< more than the other ones. And it works with two simple dials. Start and Max. This way I can tailor the curve to follow boost the way I want it. However I haven't found that necessary. Maft Pro not only dumps the MAF, but feed it a WB02, and it will AF/Track. So that typical bog with a big meth hit, or the need to sit down and really tune it... not needed.
It just balances the AF ratio back out to where you had it reading off the WB02. Including the meth thats being introduced. To keep my correction factors lower, I hooked up the Pro's AUX trigger to reduce fuel when it sees the meth on. I keep ticking a few %'s away each time until the AF ratio stabilizes sooner and the AF/Tracking doesn't have to do so much. Plus this doesn't change my tune. It only compensates when the meth is triggered on. So everything else stays the same. If meth is on, it does its thing, if not, regularly scheduled program AF ratio.
I'm sure I could extract more power with it if I broke it all down / turned the tracking off, did a full retune, and then the same thing when the meth was on to the tune of a leaner AF ratio... maybe when I have a lot of free time to tinker with it. Right now AF tracking allows me to be fast without putting time in. My timing curve is untouched, but was fairly aggressive to begin with. I haven't even changed the boost really. I get 1.7-1.8BAR in most gears. Or about 26psi. I'll probably push that up to 2BAR, and see how it does. But even without really changing anything the car hauls. Acting merely as an octane buffer, and post intercooler cooler... it was well worth the money. Honestly I think because my tune was so hairy, its finally extracting the power it should have been capable of minus any spurious knock.
The LMS kits include more than the Snow ones. And are still cheaper for the same thing. The Fluid solenoid, $40, comes with the kit. So does literally everything else you need. I bought the FLS-10 (fluid level switch) and installed it in the factory washer bottle. Which also still hoses off the windshield if NEED be. That sucker holds a gallon of fluid, and does it conveniently out of the way. Short of some extra wire for the LED's, and the main pump activation wire, some heat shrink and solder, the kit is complete. I would opt for the $15 of extra tube tho. At least if you cut twice measure after you cut twice like I do.
Even at retail, the LMS kit wouldn't even be $400 with the stuff I added. Minus a failsafe however. Whereas the Snow is $429 + + +
A failsafe will set you back another hundo or so. But I'm running without for the time being, which is also why I haven't gone crazy with the tune or boost.
Its basically a way to introduce a fuel like substance to get the party going even tho the ecu is pulling it. Works like a charm. 
Linear Mode
