I been searching and I've found"what it is, how it works ect" my question is can I run 25 psi with my big16g real mhi turbo? My fuel system consist of. 550 RCA injectors (I'm going to be running 750's and a fmic) I have a 255 welbro and a aero motive fuel pressure regulator, maf translator with 3 gm sensor My full exhaust has been done but that shouldn't matter. If you can I would l like some input if possable. Also how much psi have you seen with a maf translator. This is on a 1997 eagle talon awd
The amount of boost you can run and drive with is dictated by your cars running condition and your tune, injector size, fuel pump, exhaust are not nearly as important as your tune. Invest in a good tune program and start small.
PS: GM maf and translator are NOT a good tune source.
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"If i'd done it for the money I'd been a F**** lawyer" -mackelmore
"Swerving in and out of this fight I'm in, I was born to be a curious blend"-sintax.the.terrific(lawyer/rapper)
On the other hand, plenty of people have made good power with a GM MAF and MAFT. It may not be the best option but if you already have the equipment, its not a bad way to go, especially with a Keydiver EEPROM.
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300awhp 325ft.lbs. on a dynojet
Quote:
Originally Posted by Asmodeus
Did that meet the requirements of the reading comprehension challenged?
On the other hand, plenty of people have made good power with a GM MAF and MAFT. It may not be the best option but if you already have the equipment, its not a bad way to go, especially with a Keydiver EEPROM.
"Good" power is a relevant term. Good as in what, numbers? What about reliability, consistant driveability, and longevity? That particulat MAF sensor is junk and MAF's in general are junk, they are old and outdated. I agree if you have it sure use it, but you want to do it at least half way right, get ride of that crap.
Manipulating the signals is never going to be good for anything other than making sweet numbers on a dyno, your creating a hostile work enviroment for your senors and computer. Garbage in garbage out. Not to mention like burkgonzo has stated it hurts your engine, in the long and short run.
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"If i'd done it for the money I'd been a F**** lawyer" -mackelmore
"Swerving in and out of this fight I'm in, I was born to be a curious blend"-sintax.the.terrific(lawyer/rapper)
Bastarddsm makes 604awhp on an HY35, using a GM MAF/MAF-T and an Ostrich w/ TunerPro. He swears by it, even more so than SD. The GM MAF and MAF-T by itself isn't ideal, but I wouldn't call it junk. When used in conjunction with something like ECMLink or an Ostrich it's a viable MAF.
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1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX Auto
Parted out the turbo/ecu/fuel setup to pay for Culinary School. Bringing it back, and trying to learn the ancient forgotten art of "Going Fast with Class".
Your setup sounds good with 750's with good gas! But you maf-t does not control your timing and 1g run pretty aggressive timing already. I have tried this simular setup and my car went knock knock please put the pin back in the gernade! Like crackedDSM is saying you need more tuning than just a maft translator. unless you want to run less boost. the maf trans tells the ecu that it seeing less air than it is so gives less fuel from those bigger injectors and converts the signal from GM to stock in (simple terms) so your ecu can adjust. I have found that it affects you ltft and stft your ecu uses airflow to calculate. Do you have a wideband?
The GM MAF and MAF-T by itself isn't ideal, but I wouldn't call it junk. When used in conjunction with something like ECMLink or an Ostrich it's a viable MAF.
Couldn't have said it much better myself.
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1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD 318hp @ 5950 w/stock SMIC & catback
If you can blame guns for killing people, I can blame misspelled words on my pencil!
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