Ruff Cold Start? (Solved)

[cars4life13]

Hey guys, after a good amount of searching the forums i wanted to share on how i solved the cold start issue on my 97 Eclipse GSX. I decided to make this thread for anyone having the same issue and wants the right answer on how to fix this issue.

Symptoms: Extremely Ruff Cold Start

My car would crank, crank, crank and Crank. After about 10 mintures of cranking and killing the battery she would slowly Start.




Conclusion: Replace the Coolant Temperature Sensor
AUTOZONE PART # SU4293

LINK

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...29394_0_18589_



LOCATION: On the Back side of the Thermostat Housing with 1 connector on it.


Replace the Sensor and your Golden

My car now starts perfect regardless of the temperature.

[djinc]

I have replaced both coolant temp sensors and my thermostat and I still have a rough cold start as you described, but mine is only like that in the summer, in the winter it runs perfectly. Any ideas on that?

[Sean485]

That's fine and well, but you could have checked the temp sensor with an ohm meter rather than just guessing it was the problem.

Djinc - First thing to check is basic health of the engine. Fuel pressure, compression, boost leaks, sensor connections, etc. If you don't have a check engine light and the other stuff checks out then you can check other things. I however NEVER recomend throwing parts at a car.

[cars4life13]

Probably should get a Ohm meter but i just did my research and replaced the part.. Its only $17.00.

[djinc]

Originally Posted by Sean485

First thing to check is basic health of the engine. Fuel pressure, compression, boost leaks, sensor connections, etc. If you don't have a check engine light and the other stuff checks out then you can check other things. I however NEVER recomend throwing parts at a car.

I will do a compression test on Saturday, my sensor connections are good and no MILs are on. Ill see if I can do a smoke test for leaks, I know I have oil leaks and the oil pressure is low but I can't afford to fix these at the moment.

[BISHILVR]

Thanks for posting the fix! this is what we could use more of on here.

[cars4life13]

Thanks Bud

[djinc]

Okay so I just finished the compression test and I got:
#1 - 120
#2 - 105
#3 - 115
#4 - 105

I also noticed a crack in my valve cover while doing this, do you guys think it would be okay to clean it up and seal it with jb weld or am I better off just buying a new one?

[Sean485]

If you can get the valve cover very, very clean and let the jb weld set it will seal fine.

As for the compression that is VERY low for a 2g, borderline surprised it starts TBH. I would check the mechanical cam/crank timing to be sure it hasn't jumped time.

[BISHILVR]

Are you sure that your doing the compression test properly? and are you sure that the tester is a good one?

[djinc]

Originally Posted by BISHILVR

Are you sure that your doing the compression test properly? and are you sure that the tester is a good one?

The tester is good. I took out all the plugs, and let it crank for about 4 seconds on each cylinder with the gas pedal to the floor.

[BISHILVR]

Always let it crank until the gauge quits moving, your reading is the highest that the gauge will go.

[djinc]

Well I did the test twice because I forgot to push the gas first time so I am fairly sure I did it right and long enough. However I forgot to mention, when I did cyl 1 my girlfriend said little white chips flew out of cyl 2, I am sure this is a bad thing but what does it mean? Also how much compression should a stock 2g have?

[BISHILVR]

Compression should be 140-160 or so in a really good engine, they will run with much lower than that but it gives you an idea of the overall condition. White chips could be anything, (especially to a girl) it might have been white carbon or just filth that was laying outside of your spark plug holes.

[Sean485]

Check the timing... If the timing is correct then you can start to look deeper but if the timing has jumped, and you keep driving it it will jump again and mash valves.