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DSM Rook · 11-07-2012, 05:34 PM

I mean, you may want to look for a harness. What you could do is pull some more of that harness out and check further. I would look to remove those amplifiers. Trace the wires back as far as you can by color. Using those scotchlok connectors could have also damaged wiring.

issac712 · 11-09-2012, 09:12 AM

So i pulled off most of the blue crap and tape, and all the little nicks go back pretty far, but stops where i have the corner of the book. Also figured out that the Yellow/Black wire connects to the mitsu power unit.
Couldn't really find my stock ignition wires so I'm thinking he either tucked them really good, or completely removed them.
I'm thinking of just stripping some of the plastic off those wires, buying some longer wire and just redo all that mess. I'm thinking of either keeping those amplifiers or buying a new brand.
also checked the yard, and Not many junkyards around here have dsms alone ones with 4g63s in them.

DSM Rook · 11-09-2012, 05:42 PM

What you may want to do first, I remove all your connectors and lay down a towel and lay your harness on that. Then strip back any of the blue loom and tape that doesn't look to be factory. You can use some new tape just hold the wires where they'd need to be (where they branch off to go to components) But this will allow you to get a clear view of wires the previous owner may have messed with. The breaks in the wire could cause resistance issues which could be a problem. Since you know there is damage and possibly open wires, I'd do that. Give your self some work room. If you're going to replace sections, do them 1 by 1. Then try it. If you know your wiring is good. Maybe the power unit is fried. Maybe a driver in the ECU is fried.

issac712 · 12-13-2012, 10:04 PM

Ok updating beacuse I'm finding out this problem is taking wayyy to freakin long >

A month of this is starting to grind my gears, but a simple update shouldnt hurt.

Got a new harness and tried twisting, sodering and using heat shrink to get a good connection. Still no spark. Even tried doing it w/o the amp wires and still nothing. But to add those spark plugs/wires we're on the car years ago, mind you its been a year since it's been started. Thinking of getting new spark plugs wires. Also that black module posted above, was unplugged when I had it running. I don't know, getting a multimeter tomorrow to check for voltage in the harness.

**Sean485** · 12-13-2012, 11:12 PM

You need to ditch those amplifiers, stock coils have gone 10's. I will see if I can find a wiring diagram to help.

**Sean485** · 12-13-2012, 11:23 PM

This is the factory schematic for the ignition system. The '2-BW' are the power wires coming from the ignition source that should have power with the key on. The YG/YB wires should run from the coil directly to the power transistor unit and are pulled to ground by the PT unit to charge the coils.

The Y/YR wires run from the power transitor to the ecu and are the ecu's signal to the PT unit to charge the coils. The white wire is tach output and black should be a good ground.

If you didn't know the purpose of the power transistor, it is to protect the ecu from the voltage spikes that can fly back from the coil's primary side upon discharge. If the car ran without those before, it is possible that it was wired incorrectly with those dumb amplifiers and baked the ecu's coil drivers.

issac712 · 12-14-2012, 04:10 PM

Havent a chance to read your post sean but wanted to post the pic. Didn't get a chance last night so here. I paired the blk/whte-blk/whte (yel/blk-blu/blk) (yel/grn-blu/red)
In this pic the amps weren't twisted in. Also note he shrink was applied around those open wires upon start up.

Mischif · 12-15-2012, 10:36 PM

Those yellow/black and yellow/green wires should be connected to same color wires. Not sure why your connecting them to blue/white and blue/red. The wire colors wont change color midway through the harness like that.

issac712 · 12-16-2012, 06:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mischif

Those yellow/black and yellow/green wires should be connected to same color wires. Not sure why your connecting them to blue/white and blue/red. The wire colors wont change color midway through the harness like that.

Well check my previous pics, the original wires were tore to shit, and the blue wire harness I used to replace all the crimp slits and open wire parts from the original owner's sloppyness. I had to cut those yellow wires pretty far back and was gonna have to a new cleaner harness.
Haven't a chance to hit it with a testlight/multimeter but hopefully will later today

Octane · 02-24-2013, 02:13 PM

Okay I just read this whole thread. I dont know why on earth you would want your cars wiring harness to look like that. To be perfectly honest I would have no faith in that thing backing out of the driveway. So take that scotch locked dogs dinner of a wiring harness out and proceed to throw it threw the previous owners window. Get a new harness ditch the aftermarket components that are total overkill and start from scratch.

issac712 · 04-04-2013, 06:21 PM

UPDATE:
ok so I finally had the time to look into this ignition harness. Yesturday was my day off, so decided to rip out the old cas, coil, p/t wiring plug, and install new 1's along with a new coilpack, p/t box, and cas.
Here's a couple pics

Also happened to come across this, does anybody know what goes to this? (Green wires )

issac712 · 04-13-2013, 07:06 PM

So I tested me ignition components with a multimeter(used dc volts) and when I checked it, the numbers bounced around but never went above 12v. Checked my ecu again and its fine(doesn't smell). What am I doing wrong?

**Sean485** · 04-13-2013, 07:23 PM

It looks to me like the 3 wires there would be for your throttle position sensor. Green w/black, green w/ red and green w/ white.

What I would do is remove a spark plug from the engine and lay it on the valve cover with the wire attached, remove the CAS from the engine, plug it in to its wiring and spin it with a drill or your finger quickly and listen/watch for the injectors to click and and plug to fire.

Most of the ignition components get power for such short periods of time a typical multimeter can't pickup the pulses the ecu sends out, you have to look at the wiring schematic and check to make sure that ground and power are getting to the PTU. If the injectors work but the plugs won't fire then you know the CAS is working, if nothing fires then the problem is likely in the ecu or circuits that power the ecu. If the injectors do fire then use your multimeter to check continuity between the pins on the PTU and the matching pin on the ecu harness.

issac712 · 04-13-2013, 07:43 PM

Injectors are working fine, so I'll try to pull the cas tonight and check, and the ptu/ecu 2marrow morning. Did u heat shrink those wires right? I twisted them together and just used the heat shrink wrap. Btw when I turn the key to ON my check engine light will go away but every 35-40sec it comes back on.

**Sean485** · 04-13-2013, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by issac712

Did u heat shrink those wires right? I twisted them together and just used the heat shrink wrap. Btw when I turn the key to ON my check engine light will go away but every 35-40sec it comes back on.

I would have strongly recommended soldering the PTU wiring together. The heat shrink is there for keeping the elements out, not making the electrical connection secure.

As for the CEL if your tps wires are still out not connected to anything that is likely why your engine light is on. From what I can see in your picture you appear to have a 91-94 style wiring harness but a 90 style TB/tps sensor so the wiring has to be modified since the 90 TPS used a pigtail vs the 91+ being a direct connection.