Riggin' up H2O injection/Pump ideas?

[91eclipsegsx16boy]

So ill be makin my h20 injection soon (i cant afford a $600 aquamist or a shitty spearco), and wanted to know if anyone has any ideas for something to pump the water greater than manifold pressure (prolly no more than 17psi).

i hear the bosch fuel pumps are pretty resistant to corrosion, and i think VW's have electrical ones too boot.

thanks for any input!
-aaron

[Cooter]

bosch pumps work fine, any efi fuel pump will work for a while.. if you mix a little denatured alcohol with it then it helps keep the corrosion down, but alcohol will eventually eat all the seals out of the pump if it doesn't have the correct seals in it... there are also pumps designed specifically for that purpose, the turbo buick sites have tons of information on water/alcohol injection and different setups that people have put together...

Cooter
http://www.sound-performance.com

[91eclipsegsx16boy]

's where i heard about the bosch pump is at the GN sites..

-aaron

[1BADDSM]

What is much more important than the pump is the injector, that is what sets the aquamist and spearco systems apart. Under 20" of vacuum the water can get pulled in if you don't have a good injector, or if it drips at all (when off) you may have a problem. If you go pre-turbo on the injection you need a very high pressure setup otherwise it will erode the compressor wheel. Just some food for thought.

[91eclipsegsx16boy]

i never even thought about preturbo - i dont think any system goes preturbo? i was going to go right after the ic and use a NOS fogger nozzle, and pretty much set it up like a dry system but w/water and a pressure relay switch to start the whole thing off.

-aaron

[1BADDSM]

How much pressure does it take before the fogger nozzle will open? If the fogger nozzle can spray it at a high enough pressure you may have a pretty good water injection system. Believe it or not some water injection acually does go pre-turbo, with the theory that the turbo will disperse the water evenly like a good injector. It has the drawback of eroding the wheel in time though. It seems like more systems would be in the TOE since it wouldn't hurt the turbo, but still coat the entire insides of the IC. I believe most people put it in the TBE, I can't imagine it hurting the BOV if you put it earlier, could it?

[91eclipsegsx16boy]

dunno bout the nozzle yet. i assumed that if i got a elecctric fuel pump itd be enough pressure (like 30-50psi) to open it since the fogger nozzle i think is a wet system nozzle (fuel and nitrous) so itd have to open at regualr fuel pressure.

if not i can use a cold start (non pulse) type injeector thatll flow no matter how much pressure it behind it, but i want the fogger for better atomization (sp?)

yea, the people in the NOS+BOOST thread said right after the IC is a good spot... i might actually go closer to the TB.

should be like $100...

-aaron

[91eclipsegsx16boy]

[blunttwister]

i know a local guy running a h2o/alch, he has had good results. running a 13b in a 1g a/t he was getting a full knock count(43?) at 18psi. turns on injection and knock count went down to 10. he also has it rigged as a sprayer to his stock smic, all activated at a certain boost. he took me for a ride @18psi in 100+ degree weather, the car pulled nicely and egt's stayed down. here is the info he sent me.

<<<<<<<
Here is a parts list and some links to web sites to make your own water injection system. I bought my pump from a place called Pro Spray Equipment this is their web site http://www.pro-spray.com I ordered the pump that
says "The Ideal Pump" the 100psi one. It was $80.33 DO NOT get a cheap pump and make sure it can maintain a pressure of at least 100psi. I bought my pressure switch from NAPA $24 the rest of my system I bought from
"George's Imports Ltd." in Kansas City he's one of the dealers for "Aquamist".
This is their website http://www.kcsaab.com their phone number is (816) 333-6582 talk to Brad he was extremely helpful. The "Aquamist" parts I received
from him are as follows:

1. Solenoid Valve, part no. 806-234 price $50
2. Jet Nozzles 2 sizes, part no. 806-3XX $32 for 2
3. Tap for water jet nozzle, part no.806-284 $21
4. 1/8-4mm quick connect, part no.806-364 $3.20
5. T connector, part no.806-360 $8.75
6. Y connector part, no.806-361 $8.75
7. Check Valves 2, part no.806-249 $28 for 2
8. Pressure Accumulator "reservoir", part no.X150A $37
9. 4mm vinyl water line $2.75/meter 4 meters $11.00

This link is to some pictures of my water injection system if anyone is interested in seeing what it looks like. In the photos you will also see a wiring diagram schematic that shows how I hooked everything up. http://community.webshots.com/album/6483469UFbFByqTPN

Here is a link to the "Aquamist Water Injection Site" If you select "Design
Concept" this explains how water injection works plus there are other links to sites of people who have used water injection. There is also a list of water injection parts that "Aquamist" sells along with dealer names.
http://www.aquamist.co.uk
>>>>>>>>>>>>

he also has a couple different nozzle sizes, will get which ones.

its always been very attractive to me, run more boost w/less knock on the pump gas(92 octane)

basically like running higher octane gas(less det/knock), correct me if i'm wrong.

[1BADDSM]

That is very rare blunttwister, a non cobbled DIY system. Pricing up at around $280. I like that 100 psi pump, put the right injector on the end of that and it would have a nice even mist. Better than just higher octane gas, is the fact you'll use less of the gas.

[91eclipsegsx16boy]

i put it at $304.03

that's a bad ass setup...

but for $300 f*ck that :-) im goin for more of a shady setup. if i had $300 id save for a 16g...

-aaron

[1BADDSM]

i put it at $304.03

Whoops, I didn't add the pressure switch.

[mitsubishi_gsx]

I've seen people use windsheild washer pumps (walmart $15)
but you have to pressurize the water tank via a vacume line conected to a boost source.

[blunttwister]

you want a more shady setup? somethings you dont want to get cheap about(ie. brakes) if you build a system that uses cheaper/less reliable parts, then what happens when your running 20psi and something fails? there goes your motor, that is why it is very important to use high quality products.
and would you really use a $15 pump from walmart? this would be a half-ass system and would give you half ass results. how long will a $15 pump last when pumping alch?

im sure there are cheaper ways to do it,but like he says "DO NOT get a cheap pump and make sure it can maintain a pressure of at least 100psi" you can skimp on other areas but not on the pump.

i will be running this setup soon and when i do will give you the results.

[91eclipsegsx16boy]

id make sure itd work good before i attempted to up the boost... and id have a pressure gauge at least - in addition to an EGT and/or logger so i can always let off if something goes haywire.

i understand what youre saying though, but for me maybe water injection isnt needed/practical/or cost efficent then. i have heard impressive things though with BPUed+++ cars.

mitsubishi_gsx: that sounds like a MUCH cheaper way then a water pump - and youll be using your squirters so itll be nice and reliable. thanks!

-aaron