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streaknby's 98 TSi AWD Street Terror 2010/2011

27K views 132 replies 24 participants last post by  streaknby 
#1 ·
My first DSM build was a 97 with a built 6 bolt, 3076r, and lots of other stuff. I spent lots of money and put a lot of work to it, but within 6 months the body just rotted away and no longer looked nice. I got a few quotes for the body work and it was WAY out of my budget. So I put it up for sale and in the winter and started looking for a 2Gb DSM in good shape to build a street monster out of. I wanted something that would be quick and reasonably reliable for a heavily modified street car. I looked at lots and lots of cars but wouldn’t buy any of them because I wanted to find one that did not need any body work, no rust and minimal bumps and bruises. You all know how hard that is to do nowadays. I finally found a red 98 TSi AWD for sale that was in pretty good shape but had 260,000km on the odometer, MUCH more than I was hoping, and I was not a big fan of the red... So I kept looking and had no luck finding anything better. I made an offer on the 98 and he accepted and I took it home. It sat for six months, waiting for the 97 to sell. I had no interest for a few months so I dropped the price and got a few calls. BUT I never did get a chance to sell it because I hit the ditch in a winter storm and damaged it beyond repair. So I parted it out, barely made anything but most of it is gone now and finally can get a start on the new project. I finally got the engine and tranny out and then I parked it outside. It went un-touched until last month because school, work, and a few other DSM projects got in the way. But finally last month it came back into the garage and the build begins.

Pics of the 98:


Bone stock


Not long later. Engine and tranny out and axles supported for rolling it around


My biggest fear is I am going to drop 30k into this car and it is going to start to rust just like the other one so I went over the car with a fine tooth comb and found a few spots of rust that I wanted to get touched up before I did anything else to the car. Then while the exhaust and driveshaft is out I want to get the whole underside undercoated. A number of reasons are that it helps with in car road and exhaust noise and easier to clean and looks cleaner overall and it should help prevent rust from starting after all the body work is done. This weekend I am going to jack it up and make sure that there is nothing else in the way of getting the undercoating done.

Also I am going to pull the tail lights because I bought a couple cans of VHT night shades to lightly tint them and am going to pull the headlights apart and paint the housing black.

My hopes and goals for this build started out moderately small. I was thinking somewhere around 400whp on pump gas. But as I started reading about Holset turbo’s I started thinking bigger and got greedy with my power goals. I had my heart set on a T3 HX-40 so I started looking. I knew I needed a good clutch to hold around 600whp (my new goal). Slowboy posted a thread on my local forum having a sale on twin disk clutches. So I contacted Marti and it took about two months worth of deciding and talking about parts and ended up making an order for about 5000USD. This was the worst decision I have ever made. Ever since I sent them the money they have been yanking my chain hard core. I so far have had two wrong turbo’s and with their screw ups on paperwork I am out over 500 dollars not counting phone bills. And I still don’t have the right turbo...

My order consisted of:
BEP T3 Holset HX-40 PRO/Super 7 Blade External Gate
Straightline Performance T3 Tubular Exhaust Manifold
Tial 44mm Wastegate (.9 bar spring)
Power Enterprise Kevlar Timing Belt
PTT Twin Disc Clutch
AEM Methanol Injection Kit with 1 Gallon Tank
Kelford 272’s
Avid Performance Aluminum Motor Mount Kit
Walbro In Tank 255LPH Fuel Pump
Walbro In Line 255LPH Fuel Pump
Goodridge -6an Stainless Tank to Rail Kit
Fuel Lab In-line Fuel Filter
Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit

I knew I wanted a stroker so I started pricing out kits. I was in contact with a friend at Revolution Motorsports and he told me he had a lightly used 2.3l stroker for sale from last season. I was reluctant at first because I wanted to build my own but we talked and the price was right so I picked that up. And I knew it would be good for big power because he ran a couple mid ten second passes and dynoed at ~760whp, I can’t remember the exact number. There were only a couple passes on the motor and about 300km worth of street driving and dyno time. He threw new mains and rod bearings in the bottom for me anyway.

Stroker details:
Knife edged OEM crank, ARP main studs, custom block girdle, ACL coated race bearings, O-ringed block, Pauter Rods, Custom JE Pistons and Rings with Teflon coated side skirts and ceramic coated piston tops and balance shaft bearings are blocked off. The block was prepped with a Revolution Motorsports custom torque plate, when boring and honing was done.

Other Parts I Have Gathered Over the Last Year:
Buschur Stage 3 Head
BC Titanium Valve Springs and Retainers
FIC 1000cc Injectors
Magnus High Flow Fuel Rail
Aeromotive FPR
Unknown Intercooler (24x12x3 with 3” inlets and outlets)
3” Short Route Cold IC Piping
2.5” Hot IC Piping
Tial 50mm BOV
Fluidyne Aluminum Radiator
2x 12” Slim Fans
B&M Short Shifter
ARP L19’s
FP 4” Intake
K&N 9” long 4” round filter
Throttlebodys.com 63mm, Full Shaft, Tapered and Polished NT Throttle Body
2G AEM EMS
AEM UEGO Wideband
AEM Tru Boost Gauge and Controller
AEM Twin Fire
Autometer Cobalt Oil Pressure
Autometer Cobalt EGT
Autometer Cobalt Oil Temp
NT Water Pipe
Fluidampr Crank Pulley
RM Front and Rear Sway Bars
Prothane Front and Rear Suspension Bushing Kits
PC680 Battery and JMF Tray
ExtremePSI Holset Feed and Return Lines
Earls Inline Filter
JMF Small Oil Catch Can
AEM TruBoost 5bar Map Sensor Upgrade
Goodridge SS Brake Lines
RTM Shifter Cable Solid Bushings
Shep Stage 4 w/ Welded Center

I replaced the old tie rod ends with some OEM pieces as well as some new aftermarket swaybar end links. I am sure there are some things I am forgetting but thats is a good start I think.
 
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#4 ·
Finally up on the engine stand after way too long of sitting in storage:


It had a fresh coat of black on it but everytime I touched it it flaked or chipped lol. So I wire brushed the whole thing and got it ready for some high temp gloss black:

Ready for paint:


After:
 
#5 ·
I ordered some more stuff today from RTM Racing. Ziggy is by far the best dealer I have dealt with. I ordered some t3 gaskets, Zacklee Corp. Clear Cam gear cover, 3 guage A pillar, Symborski shifter plate solid bushink kit, OEM O2 sensor, Stainless valve cover bolt set and a couple other things.

Also the headlights on the car were starting to get cloudy and the UV protectant clear coat started coming off so I decided I would re finish them. I pulled the housing apart at the same time because I was planning on doing the "black housing" mod. I tried just power polishing the lenses at first but that did not satisfy me. So I started wet sanding them. I started with 320 grit and took it down to brand new plastic, no more rock chips or clear coat at all! I jumped from that to 600 then 800 then 1000 and finished off with 1500. They turned out really good. Smooth as a babys bum no chips or scratches what so ever. Then I used the power polisher and some Meguiers #7 polish then went to a #2. I tell you guys, it looked like they were brand new lenses! When it was all done I took a knife and cut all the old caulking off around the edges of the lenses. Six hours later they looked amazing! But in doing so I got finger prints and stuff all over them. I dipped a rag in some paint thinner and wiped them down. Little did I know that the thinner would dissolve the plastic (DUH!) until about a minute later I looked at them and they were all cloudy again, and small cracks started forming all over inside and out.

SO... needless to say I am pissed! Six+ hours of work wasted... The lenses are unsalvageable. So I am going to have to start all over now. Luckily for me I do have a spare set of lights from the 97 but still. A ton of wasted time and a decent set of lenses are wasted. Shit happens I guess...

After the thinner incident:


I will be removing the orange lense in the corner of the headlight so I replaced the regular halogen bulb with an amber LED bulb:


Black housing OEM headlights progress:






Final product:


You can't really tell but these lenses are perfectly see through too. I will polish them a bit once they are back in the car. It was a bit tough to polish them when they are just on a bench, not bolted down.
 
#6 ·
Damn. I love your new build, especially the car of choice, looks like a very rust free DSM you've found.

It sucks with all the B/S Slowboy Put you through. I don't get what is so hard, you send the right amount of money, they send the RIGHT parts in full amount, the first time around. My buddy is also dealing with them, he has had nothing but negative feedback, very similar to yours.

Sucks on the Headlights aswell, I'm glad I popped in, never knew lacquer thinner would crack/blur plastic. Any chance you try cleaning with Gas on the Old Cracked Up lens?

Either way, this thing is gonna change from a Fun DD, to a street machine, I will be here to see it unfold.

Great Build Thread Start, Good Luck.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Thanks man. Other than a little on the rockers which I an having rebuilt at the moment there was really no rust. It does have a few small spots on the shock towers, typical 2G fashion, but they are not bad at all. I think next winter I am going to strip the car down and do a full blown engine bay clean, shave and repaint, so it will be dealt with then. Plus I wont be DDing the car in the winter so that should slow down the rust.

I got a little of this going on an both sides:



Ya Slowboy is a freaking joke. I cant stand those guys, they split my shipment into three seperate boxes and sent them individually BUT with full paperwork for the whole order in each box so I paid brokerage, duty and taxes three times once it finally got to Canada. Just shy of a thousand dollars in fees AFTER I already paid for shipping which was like two fifty. Lol I am a full time student, I cant afford shit like that.

Ya I tried gas and everything on the lenses after and nothing will touch the lenses. I chucked them now. Live and learn...

I really hope that everything goes well with this build. I am taking my time to do everything right the first time. I plan on having the car running and driving by the beginning of May at the latest.

Tinted tails!!:



They turned out WAY darker than I wanted but once I brought them outside into the sun they actually look really good. The pictures make them look black but they are really not. If I find that my tail lights are not bright enough I will wet sand them to lighten them up. After I sprayed them down and they dried I power polished them and they looks sooooo good and shiny. Makes me smile, I really like the look.
 
#9 ·
Got a nice suprise today:


I didnt thing it was LSD because there was no LSD tag on the drivers door jam. But I am pleasantly suprised.

Turbo and mani bolted together:



I had to use three T3 gaskets so the mani would clear the compressor housing you can se how close it is even with three gaskets there:


She's gotta be able to breathe:
 
#10 ·
Bolted up the turbo mani and threw on the SMIM too with a Magnus heat barrier gasket. I polished up the SMIM a bit but Ill be handling it a lot more before it is actualy in the car so no point in getting too carried away yet:




Here is one of my parts pile, that is probably just over half of my actual parts :D :
 
#14 ·
I got the engine and tranny off the engine stand and up onto the hoist. It didnt start so good because when I was loosening the rotation bolt on the engine stand I lost my grip on the handle and the engine went spinning around and smashed the thermostat housing off that I had spent a couple hours cleaning all the little crevices and then painting up all nicely. Lol I even took a q-tip and painted all the bolt heads when I was done!




I put the rear main seal on and fit the flywheel and the PTT twin disc.






I also got the alternator mounted and the shiny aluminum pulley, that I wasted my money on, fastened up. It looks good but too bad it isnt even an overdrive pulley... :(

 
#19 ·
Its a Straightline Performance T3 mani. I was a bit upset that it hit the compressor but it is still a great peice and the craftsmanship is amazing and the welds are beautiful and look strong so I am still happy. You could see if you can find a T3 flange and use that as a spacer instead of using multiple gaskets like I did. The gaskets were 17 bucks a pop too haha so it is a bit of an expensive fix but it works well. :p Thanks for the kind words, the car will be on the streets this summer and believe me I cant wait, it has been way too long since I have been behind the wheel of a DSM.


Very nice dude! I've been trying to get a lot of those same parts for my car as well. Ahhh being a broke college guy haha
Thanks man, I have done more reading and research to put together the parts that I have and I believe I have gathered the parts to put together a very capable street/track monster. And yes being a college student sucks and has definitely slowed the build!

Def not a broke college dude spending that kinda dough. I could barely affored $500 old beat up cop car when I was in school. Nice project though, I'm also building a red 2gb talon similar to yours
Honestly I am a college student and have been the through the whole build. It has taken me two years to gather all the everything for the build. I work hard, really hard to be able to afford school and to build this car. That means
going to school full time heading straight to work for 6-8 hours, come home cram in some homework, head out to the garage get a couple hours in on the car and crash. Then do it all over the next day haha. I deliver pizza mostly, then take whatever else odd jobs I can get, a few of my past employers still call me back to get me to do things for them, and the best part is it is cash under the table, TAX FREE! People may make fun of me for being a delivery boy but I dont think people realize the kinda money I make doing that. Its crazy, I often bring home over 200 bucks in a 6 hour shift and three quarters of that is cash! It works well and its paying for me to build this monster!

Thanks for the compliments, please guys ask more questions or make comments. Thats why I started the build thread. If there is not interest I will probably get the mods to close it up. Ill grab some more pictures of what I did last night! Thanks guys!
 
#20 ·
Ok I need your opinions on a major decision for the car! I am getting ready to purchase a CF hood for the car for the summer haha and am really having a hard time deciding which style to go for. The last two that I bought have been the OEM CF style and I loved them but often looked at the car and thought why didnt I do something different to personalize the car. I have always like the Invader style CF hood. So now comes the big question. Which one do I buy for this car?

Reference:
OEM


Invader


Now the there are benefits to both. I could paint the OEM hood and maintain as much of a sleeper look as possible but with the Invader it has a functional vent that will help evacuate some of the heat from the tubular manifold. We all know how hot those get. With my last OEM CF hood the heat from my manifold cracked the underside of it. I hope that this the Invader hood would help cooling. OEM CF hoods are everywhere but I have never seen an Invader on a 2G DSM in my area, so it would set my car apart from the rest. I know that whatever decision I make at one point I will wish I chose the other hood. But I am just having trouble pulling the trigger on just one of them haha. Not to sway your decision but I am leaning towards the Invader at this point. Just to have something different. So ya, just let me know what you guys think! Thanks for the help. :)

I spent some time today removing the entire front suspension, I got a far bit out but am held up temporarily on the sway bar end links. I cant get the nuts off either the sway bar end or at the fork. So I called Mitsu to see what OEM links would cost if I just cut mine off and they were $108 a side! So I may check out the cost on some aftermarket ones and if they are reasonable I will get them and cut mine in half to finish getting the front stripped. New wouldnt hurt hey? I am considering getting new front tie rod ends while I am in there too. What do you guys think? Should I replace them now while I am in there or just wait till they are shot? I did not drive the car long enough to know if they were bad or not, they dont seem too bad just by look and feel. :dunno:
 
#23 ·
Ha funny you mention you are a pizza boy because I did the exact same thing when I was in school, schedule and all. School, deliver, mod/sleep, repeat lol.

I would grab the OEM and spray it black, mostly because this is what I am doing. I only picked one up for the weight savings but do not like the ricy cf appearance that draws too much negative attention. If your worried about the heat from the manifold then ceramic coat it or install an evo-like vent above it. I had a dnp manifold and sold it because it generated way too much heat and near melted my hood. Ended up going the ported stocker however I realize this is not an option for your turbo.

Lastly your headlights have inspired me greatly and I'm going to black mine out now :)
 
#24 ·
O man, you guys are making me second guess wanting the Invader style. I dont know I guess. Which ever one I go with will either be left raw CF or paint matched red. I don't think that painting a CF hood black really does anything to prevent unwanted attention because you can't tell the difference unless you are standing right next to it. I really don't like the evo style hoods/vents. Well I guess I will have to decide soon.

Delivering is definitely the best part time job I have ever had. You should definitely do the black housing headlights. Its alot of work but it looks so good in the end.

I will update with some more progress today sometime.
 
#26 ·
Thanks, well Ill let you guys know what hood I decide to go for. I may wait for a while to get it because there are really no dealers in Canada and international shipping for CF hoods is like 400 bucks! :eek:

Swade I have wondered for so long what the saying on the back of the hoodie of the guy in your sig says? You must tell me!
 
#28 ·
Gosh you guys are killing me! Lol thanks tho.

So I ordered some aftermarket sway bar end links front and rear and went ahead and cut the old ones the get the front suspension all stripped.

Empty and Dirty!



I HATE body work, just thinking about it irritates me but I got sick of looking at the rusty front lower rad support so I deciede to clean it up. I took a flapper wheel on a grinder and took off all the rust till it was all shiny new metal. On the bottom there were some spots that after grinding there were some holes through it. So when I get the whole engine bay redone that front member will have to be rebuilt or I will have to find a good one off of a donor car.

Before:




After:




I know that this can't be called actual body work but its the best I can do and it will at least slow the complete and udder deterioration of the that piece. There is a coat of primer and three coats of tremclad gloss black rust paint. Looks pretty good in person!
 
#29 ·
I'm going to go ahead and say go with the invader hood. I'm just about as anti-rice as you can get(and being a DSM'er that should tell you alot) but honestly with the way your car flows, I think an invader hood would not only look very good, but function even better to keep those temps down.

As they say Function > Form.
 
#32 ·
Yes I am, I have had OEM hoods and LOVED them but often just wondered why I didnt do something different. I think that the only DSM that can pull off the Invader is the 2Gb Talon because to of the angled door trim, the front clip has lines angling up that wrap the sides and the rear wing. Everything already sort of flows for an Invader. :D We will see.

Well I actually have the full Prothane 2g bushing kit not energy suspensions. But I am in the process of finishing up the bushing install up front and will get some pictures up soon. The rear I have not started. I actually took the front subframe and all the control arms and spindles to be sandblasted so I can put all fresh paint on it. Its gonna be puuuurty! :tat:



Here is a picture of the RRE rear strut bar I ordered too. But I am a bit unsure of it. Does it seriously only mount to the top nuts on the shocks??


Anyone have this strut bar who could shed some light?
 
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