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no start 1gb

8K views 55 replies 12 participants last post by  issac712 
#1 ·
Hey guys, so to start off, i did read help to diagnose a no start on tuners, and Google searched and now i am at a lost.
Timing is right, all intake manifold vaccumm bungs have either been used or blocked off.( deleted emmsions). I also have fuel and spark, good gas, spark plugs are in decent shape but not gapped 2 spec. Only 2 things not done right is my exhaust mani has no gasket to the head, and no bolts holding my valve cover down. Both should be here 2marrow but couldn't wait that long.
Does any1 have any ideas. Idk if the cas is set right, but i can double check.
 
#2 ·
I would wait to start it, but common things are resistor box and isc plugs can be switched, maf unplugged, cas 180 out, spark plug wires wrong, and for a new motor or one that's been sitting, it might take a minute to fire up. Tons of things could be wrong, its tough to say. There's a no start flow chart on this forum somewhere... its VERY easy to diagnose this way.
 
#3 ·
Yea, I would not start it without the valve cover bolts unless you want oil everywhere. Other than that like stated above, there is a thread on here about no start.
 
#4 ·
#5 ·
i think tuners had a no-start thread which i've been using. Forgot to update, sorry guys lol. We figured out I had fuel, but no spark (think my coil pack is bad) Pulled the plugs when it was a little dark outside and didn't see any kinda arcs or anything, so I'm ordering one today. I'll keep u guys posted if the new one works.

forgot to add, that the valve cover and exhaust manifold are both installed.
 
#6 ·
So think i found my problem. Those 2 red and black wires that go to my coilpack are torn, idk how but they are. Never really tried soldering wires before so i guess ill be trying that this weekand
 
#7 ·
Who did that, I will get them! Seriously, WTF is going on with that harness. Why are those stupid crimp lock ghetto connectors on some of the wires?

You may have a hard time soldering those wires. They are going to be dirty (the copper) And the solder will have a hard time sticking, even with flux. If you have any quality part stores or Radio Shack, I would see if they have butt connectors with the heat shrink weather tight stuff on them. Then pick up a decent pair of crimpers and attach them that way. Clean up that other crap and make sure the wires get covered.
 
#9 ·
So I've bought new clamps, and put the yellows/green wires with the black, and the red wires both into that black/white wire. Still no spark.
 
#11 ·
I know, but don't have a lot of car smart friends. Really, this forum is my only help.
But what am i doing wrong? I can post more pics when I'm off from work
 
#12 ·
Ok, here's what i got. The yellow/black , yellow/green , black/white wires are from my coilpack connecter. The 2 red and red/black wires are from the nology ampfliers, checked Google and the wires colors dont match. http://www.nology.com/images/powercoreinsteclipse.gif.

But this is pretty much what it looks like with all the duck rape removed.



 
#14 ·
To be honest, when i bought the car, these were already installed. I don't even know what the stock components are or what they look. I'm not really exp. In electrical stuff, so I'm kinda at a lost. But as far as everything else in that harness works. Just these coil wires that need fixing. Idk if u can see, but there's a lot of small spilts in those wires from me trying to semi guess which wire goes were with those blue crimps.
 
#15 ·
The coil plug should come from the injector area, shouldn't it? I would try and verify the transistor wiring is unmolested, and run to a junkyard and get that plug, cut as far back on the harness that you can. Note it's location and install that instead.

I may have misread the current issue, forgive me I'm sleepy.
 
#17 ·
So i pulled off most of the blue crap and tape, and all the little nicks go back pretty far, but stops where i have the corner of the book. Also figured out that the Yellow/Black wire connects to the mitsu power unit.
Couldn't really find my stock ignition wires so I'm thinking he either tucked them really good, or completely removed them.
I'm thinking of just stripping some of the plastic off those wires, buying some longer wire and just redo all that mess. I'm thinking of either keeping those amplifiers or buying a new brand.
also checked the yard, and Not many junkyards around here have dsms alone ones with 4g63s in them.
 
#18 ·
What you may want to do first, I remove all your connectors and lay down a towel and lay your harness on that. Then strip back any of the blue loom and tape that doesn't look to be factory. You can use some new tape just hold the wires where they'd need to be (where they branch off to go to components) But this will allow you to get a clear view of wires the previous owner may have messed with. The breaks in the wire could cause resistance issues which could be a problem. Since you know there is damage and possibly open wires, I'd do that. Give your self some work room. If you're going to replace sections, do them 1 by 1. Then try it. If you know your wiring is good. Maybe the power unit is fried. Maybe a driver in the ECU is fried.
 
#19 ·
Ok updating beacuse I'm finding out this problem is taking wayyy to freakin long :mad:
A month of this is starting to grind my gears, but a simple update shouldnt hurt.

Got a new harness and tried twisting, sodering and using heat shrink to get a good connection. Still no spark. Even tried doing it w/o the amp wires and still nothing. But to add those spark plugs/wires we're on the car years ago, mind you its been a year since it's been started. Thinking of getting new spark plugs wires. Also that black module posted above, was unplugged when I had it running. I don't know, getting a multimeter tomorrow to check for voltage in the harness.
 
#21 ·
This is the factory schematic for the ignition system. The '2-BW' are the power wires coming from the ignition source that should have power with the key on. The YG/YB wires should run from the coil directly to the power transistor unit and are pulled to ground by the PT unit to charge the coils.

The Y/YR wires run from the power transitor to the ecu and are the ecu's signal to the PT unit to charge the coils. The white wire is tach output and black should be a good ground.

If you didn't know the purpose of the power transistor, it is to protect the ecu from the voltage spikes that can fly back from the coil's primary side upon discharge. If the car ran without those before, it is possible that it was wired incorrectly with those dumb amplifiers and baked the ecu's coil drivers.
 

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#22 ·
Havent a chance to read your post sean but wanted to post the pic. Didn't get a chance last night so here. I paired the blk/whte-blk/whte (yel/blk-blu/blk) (yel/grn-blu/red)
In this pic the amps weren't twisted in. Also note he shrink was applied around those open wires upon start up.
 
#24 ·
Well check my previous pics, the original wires were tore to shit, and the blue wire harness I used to replace all the crimp slits and open wire parts from the original owner's sloppyness. I had to cut those yellow wires pretty far back and was gonna have to a new cleaner harness.
Haven't a chance to hit it with a testlight/multimeter but hopefully will later today
 
#25 ·
Okay I just read this whole thread. I dont know why on earth you would want your cars wiring harness to look like that. To be perfectly honest I would have no faith in that thing backing out of the driveway. So take that scotch locked dogs dinner of a wiring harness out and proceed to throw it threw the previous owners window. Get a new harness ditch the aftermarket components that are total overkill and start from scratch.
 
#26 ·
UPDATE:
ok so I finally had the time to look into this ignition harness. Yesturday was my day off, so decided to rip out the old cas, coil, p/t wiring plug, and install new 1's along with a new coilpack, p/t box, and cas.
Here's a couple pics



Also happened to come across this, does anybody know what goes to this? (Green wires )

 
#27 ·
So I tested me ignition components with a multimeter(used dc volts) and when I checked it, the numbers bounced around but never went above 12v. Checked my ecu again and its fine(doesn't smell). What am I doing wrong?
 
#28 ·
It looks to me like the 3 wires there would be for your throttle position sensor. Green w/black, green w/ red and green w/ white.

What I would do is remove a spark plug from the engine and lay it on the valve cover with the wire attached, remove the CAS from the engine, plug it in to its wiring and spin it with a drill or your finger quickly and listen/watch for the injectors to click and and plug to fire.

Most of the ignition components get power for such short periods of time a typical multimeter can't pickup the pulses the ecu sends out, you have to look at the wiring schematic and check to make sure that ground and power are getting to the PTU. If the injectors work but the plugs won't fire then you know the CAS is working, if nothing fires then the problem is likely in the ecu or circuits that power the ecu. If the injectors do fire then use your multimeter to check continuity between the pins on the PTU and the matching pin on the ecu harness.
 
#29 ·
Injectors are working fine, so I'll try to pull the cas tonight and check, and the ptu/ecu 2marrow morning. Did u heat shrink those wires right? I twisted them together and just used the heat shrink wrap. Btw when I turn the key to ON my check engine light will go away but every 35-40sec it comes back on.
 
#30 ·
Did u heat shrink those wires right? I twisted them together and just used the heat shrink wrap. Btw when I turn the key to ON my check engine light will go away but every 35-40sec it comes back on.
I would have strongly recommended soldering the PTU wiring together. The heat shrink is there for keeping the elements out, not making the electrical connection secure.

As for the CEL if your tps wires are still out not connected to anything that is likely why your engine light is on. From what I can see in your picture you appear to have a 91-94 style wiring harness but a 90 style TB/tps sensor so the wiring has to be modified since the 90 TPS used a pigtail vs the 91+ being a direct connection.
 
#31 ·
I'll check into doing that when I get time and tools.

Would the 91+ plus style be close to the firewall behind the tb? The plug I have on my tb fits into it. I think it's squared if I can remember. I'll check tonight
 
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