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Exhaust, mbc, tuning or fuel?

2K views 3 replies 2 participants last post by  Th3ory 
#1 ·
Hi all, looking for some ideas on my next mod...

1997 talon tsi, bought it not to long ago- it was all stock beside T28 turbo.

So far, I have added; K&N intake-filter/install kit, free B.S.C. boost restriction mod, extreme psi's 1g to 2g BOV conversion adapter-(1g bov install tomorrow or next day) and installed a pro-comp ultra-lite auto-meter boost gauge.

Car runs great and boost fast. At WOT pulls, boost quickly hits 12 psi, right on the dot, and holds to redline in 2nd gear. 3rd gear hits 12psi and drops maybe 1 psi if any drop at all. It was a bit surprising to see the car hit 12psi right on the notch and hold... I was expecting it to be less accurate with more flutter, but not the case...

Anyways, car is a fun but I am itching for HP. My goal is an increase of 40-50hp. I was really wanting to throw on a MBC and bump it up to 15psi, from what I have read, stock 2g's seem to be rich enough to support the slightly larger T28 to around 15-18 psi. But I do feel a bit unsafe upping boost with out adding fuel. So I am also looking into megans 3" down-pipe. Is it ok to throw on a 3" downpipe with out upgrading stock 02 housing? I am new to DSM so I really have no idea. Another option for my next mod would also be a walbro high pressure 255 fuel pump. Might be over-kill for a T28, but I will be looking to upgrade turbo in future.

What do you guys think? Upgrade fuel pump, exhaust, add in MBC, or maybe some sort of electronic monitoring device? I really have no idea where to start with tunning on a DSM, or what options there are for at least engine monitoring. But from what I have read, the T28 is relatively small and 2g's can handle the T28 with moderate boost levels.
 
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#2 ·
Check voltage at the fuel pump once the car is warmed up. I know stock 1g cars never have proper voltage at the pump. If it's below 13 volts cold and 12volt warm then I would do the rewire next. This will ensure at WOT the pump is pushing as much fuel as it can to the injectors.

Which BTW you at a minimum should get a logger to observe injector duty cycle, knock and O2 voltage. Do ANY maintenance that should be done first! Once that's done go get a baseline (dyno pull) so you know where you are at. Then get a MBC and start slowly increasing the boost until you see the injector duty cycle reach 95%. That imo will be the safe limit for the moment.

Realize a full exhaust sometimes causes creep and boost spikes. So until you can support more airflow I wouldn't bother with the exhaust. But a row pipe only wont really do anything for you, hell it should actually make things worse if it's going from the stock O2 housing to 3" then back down to stock diameter at the CAT. So again until you install the needed tuning and fuel upgrades I wouldn't worry about the exhaust. But when you do, do full. For your needs 3" isn't required though.

Also for a tuning solution if you only want 40-50hp more a Apexi AFC will do, though I hate all forms of piggy back systems, as they manipulate the stock ECU by lying to it. But it's a low cost simple solution. Add in some Evo 550cc injectors, 2.5" exhaust and up the boost, you can likely exceed your goals at that point.
 
#3 ·
Much appreciated! Thank you for the info...

Now as far as "logger"... what are my options? This is all new to me :confused: All I have is an obd2 code reader, which does some freeze frame information. But I don't recall it "seeing" anything to do with injectors. What are my options, with budget in mind, not to mention usability->as simple as can be for me :)

I will try some searching on the forums, but direct up to date information is best.
 
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