1. What type of socket fits the cylinder head studs?
2. What type of tool is it thats required to adjust the timing belt tensioner, and is it really need?
3. In the chiltons it says something about adjusting the timing belt once the belt is on. Doing 1/4 turns counterclockwise, then clockwise. Is this necessary if i get the timing marks dead on when i put the belt on?
Are you talking about ARP Head Studs? If so, then you need a 12-point 13mm socket.
Can you do a timing belt job without the tool(s)? Yes. I've done it. Is it much easier with the tools? YES. I've done it with the tensioner tool also. If you don't want to buy the tool, you can always use the battery tie down trick - see the VFAQ.
Spinning the engine over a few times after the belt is installed is necessary to make sure everything is lined up properly, and that the tension is set properly. Once the job is complete, and you've spun the engine a few times, the tensioner should have the hole lined up such that you could put the pin back into it if you tried. If not, it's probably not adjusted properly, and you should do it over again.
The stock head studs that are in there. I used a 12mm socket (i think it was 12 point, it fit so i used it) to get them off, i just wanted to see if it was a special type of socket or what. That way they wont strip when i torque them back on.
I've done timing belts on the 4g63 and 4g37, but the way the book describes it, it sounds harder on the 4g64.
The stock head studs *CAN* be reused, but they need to be measured to be sure they are still in spec. I personally would just buy a set of ARP studs and be done with it. They aren't any more expensive than stock bolts.
OTOH, I have about 5 sets of stock bolts that came out of various 4G64's, so if you end up needing some, PM me. I'm sure I have plenty that are in spec.
Like I said..... If your nonturbo... Just get new head bolts.... They are $32 AT ADVANCE... ARPs for your year are $95....That sounds like more money to me :dunno:....
If your a turbo car, get some arps, and be done with it.
Wow... You're right. Last time I looked up the stock head bolts (I guess it was probably a good 6+ years ago), they were about the same price as ARP. My bad.
The cars not mine, its a friends. I'm just doing the work. He is taking the head tp a shop to get it rebuilt and make sure its not warped. I did tell him to take the head studs too and have the guy measure them to see if they were within spec still.
Just get new and be done with it. Your buddy will thank you when it comes time to put them in and you have new and are not risking using the old ones and having the chance of one or more of them being out of spec.
How about the timing belt tensioner should we replace that as well? The car has about 70k on it, original timing belt (the belts getting replaced with a new one)
You can test it to make sure the tensioner is good and the timing components can also be checked. I always recommend it because I dont wanna see someone lose their motor cause they didn't change/check it.
It's a good idea, if he plans on keeping the car until the next timing belt job, to replace:
Water pump
Both timing belt pulleys (Tensioner and Idler)
Hydraulic Tensioner
and, if it still has the balance shafts:
Balance shaft belt and idler pulley
It's a peace of mind thing.
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