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4G64 swap

255K views 470 replies 125 participants last post by  rself 
#1 ·
Has anybody done it? Seen it? Heard of it?

I'm about to do it.
 
#452 ·
Sorry its still not clear,is there a tapped hole on the 6 bolt G4SC and if not are you guys putting it near numer 1 and any problems? One guy said he had some
And anyone know thread tap to tap the hole.I have my engine at machine shop now but no knock sensor to check it with.
 
#453 ·
Oh also curious what most of you 2.4 guys are running with wiseco pistons for piston to wall with big turbos and possibly small shots of spray.
 
#454 ·
peanotation said:
i have a 4g64 7bolt dohc from a galant GS, and i'm planning on using the 7bolt eagle rods with wiseco pistons part# K548M87.

now here's what's interesting about these wisecos.

http://www.wiseco.com/PDFs/Catalogs/SC06_Mitsubishi.pdf

they have the same part number listed twice. first for a 4g63 7bolt with 22mm wrist pin, then for a 4g64 with the 22mm pin again. both have 87mm bore, although its listed 0.08" over for the 4g63.

the only difference is their comp ratio. the 4g63 has 8-8.3:1, while the other is 9-9.3:1

anyone know why there's the difference? hope i don't get the wrong comp piston

also, what does everyone prefer to use as their main bearings, clevites vs. oem?
ok i called wiseco, the different comp. ratios are made up in the stroke. the 88mm stroke of the 2.0L piston gives it the 8.1:1, where-as the 100mm stroke of the 2.4L gives it the infamous 9.1:1
 
#455 ·
peanotation said:
ok i called wiseco, the different comp. ratios are made up in the stroke. the 88mm stroke of the 2.0L piston gives it the 8.1:1, where-as the 100mm stroke of the 2.4L gives it the infamous 9.1:1
I used wiseco K548M87 and ended up with 8.9:1 compression. Your actual compression will depend on several factors (decked head/block, HG thickness, ect).
 
#456 ·
peanotation said:
also, what does everyone prefer to use as their main bearings, clevites vs. oem?
I am using clevite 77 bearings. If I could do it again I would used a coated bearing like the clevite TriArmor but I havent had a problem. I wouldnt use OEM if you are looking to make a lot of power. If you are building a performance engine, you might as well use a performance bearing.
 
#457 ·
AL92 said:
Sorry its still not clear,is there a tapped hole on the 6 bolt G4SC and if not are you guys putting it near numer 1 and any problems?
Again... yes there is. It is located just above the A/C compressor bracket. If you got your block from a junkyard, you may want to clean out the threads with a thread chaser. I believe it is 8mm x 1.5mm but dont quote me on that. Just ask the machine shop to clean the threads for you... hot tanking will not clean the threads.
 
#461 ·
cannodal19 said:
is there a actuall way to tested the car for your compression? cause I know if u put 9:0:1 it should just htat, but not if u have a shaved head? so how do u find it out?
You need to CC the head and then add that volume to the cylinder volume at TDC (including headgasket). You then divide the the total cylinder volume (including HG and head CC) by the cylinder volume at TDC. This is the only way to truely know your compression. You also need to add the CC of the piston dish (the wiseco's are 22 cc's) to the volumes. You should end up in the 8.8-9.0 range.

My pistons were slightly out of the hole, so I took that into consideration as well.
 
#464 ·
My 2.4 came back today from machine shop partially assembled.I had them install the crower rods, acl coated bearings,wiseco pistons and they put on the cometic hp with arp head studs
and the installed the manley stainless standard valves,new high perf bronze guides and valve seals and crower springs and titanium retainers,manley valve keepers.
My crank was minty and polished up only. Standard bearings were fine.
I set the wisecos to .0035 piston to wall ,top ring at .019 second .023.
Hitting it as you can see in my sig with an FP3065. And maybe under 100 shots later on of direct port nitrous.It
will be getting normal type street 500 mile breakin not track break in.I also put thin copper spray on the cometic.
I know they say dry but they also said that a bit of copper spray was ok.My block and head were decked and very smooth but no idea of the RA. Cometic suggested a fingernail test and it passed that so should be ok I hope.
I know have to of course assemble the rest of the stuff on it and it will be a week or so till everything shows up.
But at least the motor is home and things are happening.
 
#466 ·
I have more questions..last minute ones..
Someone said if use a 6 bolt 2.0 pan you need to clearance a bit near shallow end or rods bolts will hit it on my G4CS.True or not true..some said they did and some say they didn't.
I have air on my 97 .So should I just use the lower manifold bolt hole for the knock sensor since not using a manifold bracket since using JMFAB SMIM.
Also someone said they used a 91 timing wheel and it messed up the engine and they had to use 93 to 94 wheel or timing marks or something like that..so can I use the 91 wheel or not?
 
#467 ·
4G63Rydah said:
Oil squirters help a lot on a street driven turbocharged car. You should double check about the hole for the knock sensor, because even the NT 4G63 block doesn't have that hole. I don't see why they would make one for the 4G64. Also, the equal length half-shafts really don't help as much as some people say it does. But if you got some laying around you might as well put them in.

.
this is old but it made me laugh, greg collier uses half shafts
 
#468 ·
Important last minute questions..

Ok just about done my 2.4 assembly.
Should I use the 2.4 pickup or the 2.0 oil pickup screen. If I use the 2.0 I have to cut off the arm it looks like. Not a big deal but the 2.4 has no arm but is a different length think its shorter than the 2.0 pickup tube.

Secondly I have taken out the balance shafts and of course turned the bearings but the 2.4 has no oil squirters installed.
Should I port the oil pump relief hole to keep my oil pressure down.
 
#470 ·
malcvr4 said:
I tried to use the 2.4 pick up tube and the oil pan didnt fit right. I ended up using the 2.0 tube.
I found that you can use either pan, or either tube, BUT you must use them from the same engine e.g. 2.0 pan with 2.0 pickup tube and 2.4 with 2.4. Also keep in mind that slight changes in the oil pan will change the height of oil on the dipstick so you may want to make sure it has the same dipstick and holder that come's out of the block.

Shawn
 
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