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Stuttering...

6K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  Ambico 
#1 ·
When I first start my car, if I hit the gas, when the rpm's come back down, it drops to 200-300 sometimes and most times stalls. :dunno: Or as soon as I start moving even if I roll it starts to happen? If I give it a little gas and get going it's fine? My car idles around 500 cold and then gets to about 800..

It's a 94 Eagle Talon DL stock.

What should I start with?

By the way:
- New plugs and wires.
- New oil.
- Flushed radiator, clean coolant.
 
#4 ·
The maf could cause some wierd things to happen, veryfy its correct functionality. Second I would verify firing order from the dist cap.
 
#5 ·
If this started happening over time, you more than likely have a gunked up throttle body. A 1.8L DSM will run decent with a leak in the intake or a faulty MAF. The problem I am thinking is reduced airflow or a bad Idle Speed Control motor. Try removing the intake pipe from the throttle body and use a rag and carburetor / throttle body cleaner and clean all the oil and grime deposits away. Make sure to hold the throttle plate open by hand and do a thorough job at the top and bottom where it seats when closed. This is good preventative maintenance that should be performed about every 50,000 miles, more frequently if it's burning oil. Next, once you've ensured the throttle body is clean, start the car and turn on the A/C. It does not matter if you even have the A/C hooked up / charged. With a fully functioning A/C, the idle should raise slightly and then drop back down. If the A/C is not connected, it should raise to about 1,000 rpm's and stay steady. Just out of curiosity, have you recently replaced the alternator. I did on mine and it had a bad habit of dropping the idle too low under these conditions (engine warmed up, headlights on, brake lights engaged and clutch pushed in) The solution was to drive the car and let the computer's memory relearn after disconnecting the battery. This was odd though because it seemed as though it took it 2 months to relearn and this is a car that is driven 15 miles back and forth to work 5 days a week. Let us know what you try and the results and we'll advise from there.
 
#6 ·
Yeah, the alternator was recently replaced, so maybe I will hope for that one.. I will try cleaning the throttle body and see if that helps. I am pretty sure my firing order is correct, but couldn't hurt to check. Thanks for the replies.
 
#10 ·
If the 2.0 and the 1.8 are the same, then yes I am. I had a 4g63 I am parting and I just took the intake hose and MAF and swapped it with the one on my 4g37. The car runs a little better now and it is not throwing any codes, so I assume they are the same? I guess my other MAF was bad or the hose had holes in it?
 
#13 ·
These are symptoms of a bad throtle position sensor. If you can get another one try it to. I have no idea how to adjust them yet on the DSM, but this is what usuallu happens when they are going bad.
 
#14 ·
To test the TPS just test the resistance between the 1st and 3rd pin, it should be about 5000 ohms. And then measure the resistance between the 1st and 2nd pin. I think its supposed to be about 1000. Search, or look in your manual for the exact numbers.
 
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