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removing charcoal canister and vac hoses

51K views 203 replies 53 participants last post by  scotthidley 
#1 ·
Has any one removed their charcoal canister, and had no adverse side effects. I also would like to remove the purge valve(has a broken nipple and needs replaced), the purge control solenoid, and the fuel solenoid. I already removed the egr and put in a block off plate. This would clean up the engine bay and have less of chance for vacuum leaks. I just need to know i wont lose horsepower or have check engine lights, etc. Its in a 91 talon turbo. Also if i elimintate the solenoids, where should i tap in for the aftermarket boost gauge?

thanks
Chris
 
#27 ·
? i get a whopping 20mpg driving like grandma now... i cant afford much less for no gain.

If your concerned about gas mileage boost leaks will make your car run very rich, which will effectivly waste your gas and rob you of power. Every single junction on every single vacuum line that comes off the manifold is a potential source for leaks. By eliminating all these vacuum lines you greatly reduce the possiblility for boost leaks.
As for the EGR block off, it won't effect your mileage one bit if its removed and blocked off.

All CA cars have functional EGRs, just the japan cars have the block offs.
 
#28 ·
The fuel pressure one i can understand is that it helps starting in high altitudes, so unless youre on pikes peak, this isnt needed either
Does anyone know more specificaly what exactly the FP selenoid does, when it is active and what it attemps to accomplish? My car runs fine with out it, but im at sea level, what will happen if i go into the mountains?
 
#30 ·
You know whats funny is that i used to have a problem starting my car in the morning, but since i removed that selenoid i haven't had any problems yet.
 
#31 ·
man, 20mpg!?!? I can believe some of the fuel economy on here. Granted I dont have very many mods done to my GS-T, but I average about 29 and have gotten 32mpg.
 
#34 ·
I tough it was there to raise fuel pressure when the engine is still hot, to avoid vapor lock...
has anyone else ever heard of this? I haven't.

I cant imagine how it could ever raise the fuel pressure anyways unless you were in vacuum. The fuel pressure is supposed to get raised proportional to the manifold pressure. The only thing those selenoids do is open or close the pathway of vacuum or boost. In other words it could only close and not allow for boost pressure to get to the FPR which would prevent your fuel pressure from rising. However during vacuum if it were closed it would actually allow a bit higher fuel pressure compared to having vacuum signal on the FPR.
 
#35 ·
ok.. the fp bump up solenoid is real simple.. all it does is eliminate the vaccum source from the fpr at idle so that the fp stays at base instead of dropping with vacuum... has anyone ever had a problem with this solenoid leaking? my roomate's gvr4 had this problem, almost cost him a motor.. as it broke at the track while running big boost...

Cooter
http://www.sound-performance.com
 
#36 ·
My vacuum lines consist of the following:
BOV line from manifold Td for the MBC (profec B coming soon)
FP line with the solenoid still in
PCV just normal
a K&N breather filter on the valve cover

that's it, nothing more. All nipples on the valve cover capped. I just completely took out the charcoal canister, all the lines, the whole nine yards. I have a fuel cell so I didn't have anywhere to plug that line in anyway.

I'm still rockin an egr though. Blocking it will gain you all of 0hp. It's closed under boost. The exhaust gas actually raises your octane in a sense. Think of it this way, a higher octane fuel burns slower, by dilluting the intake charge the exhaust gas has in effect raised your octane rating, without changing a thing. That let's your ecu advance ignition timing under cruise conditions.
On the other hand blocking it to keep the intake manifold and throtle body clean is a very valid reason. I fully think that is a good idea. Just don't be expecting to gain all this power from doing it.
SteveTek sells a good cheap plate that let's you toss the entire egr assembly.
To get at it just pull out your battery. It's not *that* hard, but it's not exactly easy.
 
#37 ·
To removevthe egr, the easiest way to get at it is to remove your battery and maybe even your upper ic pipe. Just get a 12mm socket with an extension and there is one bolt on each side of the egr(2 total. You may have to wrestle around with the shifter cables a little, but no serious problems.
 
#38 ·
I have a few questions.

Guys, I removed the egr and the lines to it, which let to the thermostat housing and then to the Throttle body, I removed those and capped off the nipples on the T-body and at the water housing, I also removed the canister which led the fuel line to be sitting there, Im assuming I can just remove the whole line and plug it at the tank? I also removed the rest of the lines which led to a solenoid which im assuming is the FP bump up solenoid that rests beside the FPR solenoid, can I just remove those lines and unplug the solenoid besides the FPR solenoid?
 
#40 ·
Well, I actually used some mis-wording there, I was actually thinking of plugging the line at the tank with a spare K&N valve cover filter I have lying around, what about the solenoid, can that be unplugged?
 
#42 ·
electrically on 1g cars there doesn't have to be a connection on any of the three solenoids (on obdII cars you need to have an electrical connection or you will get a check engine light, i don't know if this is true for all 2g cars, but i have tried to remove the boost control solenoid on a 97 and it get an engine light), and if you leave the egr valve assy. in place it won't hurt anything... btw i just ran 280 miles on a tank of gas and drove the shit out of it....

Cooter
http://www.sound-performance.com
 
#44 ·
does one of the vacuum hoses from the charcoal canister go into the air intake? i have 2 hoses going into the intake, and i know 1 of them is from the valve cover. i will put a k&n breather filter on that hose. but i need to know the source of the other hose. i need to block that off cuz i'll be changing intakes. i loaned my chiltons manual to a freind so i can't look it up :(
TIA
 
#46 ·
I took my charcoal canister out cuz it makes changing the tranny MUCH easier than with it in. I've had a trans out of my car a total of 10 times now, and probably again by the end of the year, so I'm always looking for shortcuts :)

I just pulled the whole mess out, capped the vapor line with a mini K&N, and capped off ALL of my 1g throttle body vacuum lines, all of the solenoid lines, and I took my EGR valve OFF my car since I'm using a nice blockoff plate. I still have the FPR solenoid hooked up, still have the BOV line hooked up, and a source for my AVCR MAP sensor and boost gauge.

I actually got the best gas mileage of my car's life last week...25mpg on the highway!!!!

This last tank, I averaged 18mpg :(
 
#47 ·
How the????

ok i just tried to get to my Canister in my 90" TSI. Its under the battery, so i took out the battery then theres a metal shelf type thing the battery is sitting on, the one problem with it is that it isn't BOLTED to the body of the car, it appears to be welded with a slanted beam going from the drivers side of the shelf to the body about 16" below. This makes it damn near impossible to get to anything. HOW did you guys take your canisters out????

Jason

Frickin Weird Cars, but damn they are fun.
 
#49 ·
Hmmrrmzzz

Are they pretty difficult to get too? I thought I looked all over the stupid thing for bolts but couldn;t find any. I guess ill look again after work. Some day i will KILL the vacuum leak i have, someday... Although It struck back this time. I replaced the TB gasket and it gave me Idle surge. Weird shit.

Jason
 
#50 ·
after removing the charcaol canister i seem to have little fuel pressure?? i also have a bad tps sensor whichi will be replacing tommorrow. im assuming i have low fuel pressure as my a/f gauge reads very lean at idle and at any thr. %. could this be more related to the bad TPS or the open vapor line from the gas tank??
 
#51 ·
90 throttle body

I will also be removing all of my emissions stuff this weekend. Currently I have my boost guage tapped on the FP line, but I'm not comfortable having it on this line. Since I will be running a direct line from the intake to the FPR, I'm going to move it. I have a 1990, so the throttle body is different, it has 2 nipples on the top and 2 on the side. I have a friend that has a 1991 and all of his nipples are capped except for "P". He has a direct vacuum line from the "P" nipple to his greddy boost sensor. My question is, which nipple is equal to "P" on the 1990 TB or can I just use any of them?
 
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