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DSM4LIFE-AWD Early 95 Build Thread

120K views 344 replies 61 participants last post by  maximum9898 
#1 ·
So here it is my build thread ... :D

Time to bring the DSM to my friend's house ...











 
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#166 ·
Uughh....electrical work is definately an aquired taste. Not one that I'm very fond of. I do it when I have to,but it's my least favorite thing to do in a car. Good job! It's coming along great. Nice clean work on the terminals!
 
#171 ·
Well to be honest last year I also wanted to keep the heater box ... If you don't have a big hole in the fire wall it should not be that cold. ;) But since I will not DD my car, needed space for the fuse box and need a nice place to run my wire thru the firewall I decided to remove them. My 0 gauge now pass thru firewall where the heater hose was so that gave me a good reason to remove them. Removing the abs harness is also a good thing when you want to put the fuse box in the glove box, all the extend wires will now pass right where the abs harness was. :)

I also have to say that it was really easy to do but f*c*i*g long ! The hardest part is where I'm now, it's a real mess around the sub fuse box. Will see what connector I can remove ... I want that to be done for the weekend so I can start building my fuel lines setup. :D
 
#173 ·
LoL you'll have to wait again my friend, I still need to fab my seat bracket, 3" upper intercooler piping, extend the dump piping on my o2 housing and wrap it, weld the bung on my downpipe for the wideband ... ;)

I also decided to order a NRG short hub and a quick connect + lock. That will be one of my anti-thieft systeme haha :cool:

Send me a PM when you'll want those washers. :D
 
#175 ·
Yes Anthony, when you remove the abs harness you'll see that it connect to the passenger harness and the rest of the wires goes in the passenger fender. You can see the white connector in the picture I posted with the abs ecu connector ... That's where I started and I just follow these wires to cut them at the source in the engine bay while removing all the others I know I will not use like air bag sensor ... They will end right at the abs valve in the driver side. When my car was running I marked every connector that was not used to remove them while doing this tuck. Now I think I have something like 17 wires at the fuse box instead of 35 or 40 LoL.

Be prepare to get sticky hand for hours. ;)
 
#177 ·
Haha yeah they where not pricey, I even quoted my hose supplier and he wanted near 200$ (we are an hydraulic shop so we already have good price !) so at 65$ shipped it was a steal ! I can't give you the lenghts since I don't remember, I have used a wire and trace the lines I wanted than mesure the wire ... Pretty basic way ! Take a look at post #146 at page 10 in my build thread. I order the line from http://fluidtransferproducts.com and don't tell me their website is down, don't know why but I can access his website by searching this in google. Our car use m6x1.0 inverted flare fitting. I also have GoodRidge ss brake hose to the caliper. You even can order color for the ss hose plastic cover, you'll see in the website. ;)
Good Luck Anthony :D
 
#182 · (Edited)
Thanks lilredeclipse, I hope to be at your level at the end ! :D

Damn man, that's freaking awesome!

Thanks so much. I'll have to measure the lines next time I'm at my car.
Did you do any mods to the lines going to the rear of the car?
Not yet but I plan ordering them when I'll order the clutch line. ;)
Brakes line are -3 hose by the way.

I just got the sub fuse box out of the car and the wire I had cut in the engine bay back under the driver side dash. WOOT
 
#183 ·
This is how mine is too. Just an empty shell for a dash. All of the HVAC system has been removed. By itself it does'nt weigh all that much,but every little bit helps. When I did this to my 93' I wound up getting 137lbs out of the car by removing the HVAC,OEM fuel tank,spare tire hump,carpeting,both metal bumpers,and some metal insulation under the car. I think the AC system only wound up weighing like 30lbs though.
 
#186 ·
When I'll be ready for a cage, I plan on removing all the interior trim, door panel , make a custom dash ... I'm happy with my weight reduction, seats, steering, air bag ... But now my Tokico won't do the job so I'll need a good coil over setup because I can really see that the car sits higher than last summer so I was like where's my drop !? :D
 
#185 ·
I always order my electric stuff from ebay since it's the only place I can find it at a good price. Where I live they wanted something like 5$ for 1 ANL fuse, 3$ for 1 AGU fuse, 7$ by feet for 0 gauge of Stinger ( I needed 50 feets ), something like 50$ by distribution block so I said f**k that and ordered them from ebay. ;)
 
#187 ·
Time to update and post picture of a job I will never do again ! Yesterday my head wanted to explose, my eyes where burning and I tought that it will take forever to finish this tuck, but now it's done. :D Well almost ...

I actually learn a lot while doing this, now I know every connector in my car :)

This is what I was doing after my job for the last 2 weeks ...


Some promotion for ExtremePSI haha :)


Cut and follow every wires that was unplug or not used ... Even some end at the cluster so I guess, no more abs light, srs light ... :D


Before and after shot, half of my connector now look like this :D




What is not in the box have been removed this weekend


Now its time to play with the engine harness ... It's gonna be a big party haha !
 
#189 ·
To be honest with you Anthony, I have spend a least 24 hours of work tucking wires ... I work slowly when it comes to wires ... When a wire tap into an other, I stop there.

Now for my fuse box relocation, all the wiring except 3 already get in the car in the driver side so this way I will not extend 15 wires but 3. ;)
 
#191 ·
The fuse box will be in the glove box since my distribution block are already in the air bag and space is limited.

I've tried to depinned them but they just wont come off on some connector ... ? Do you know a special tool I could use ? Maybe I was not pushing on the right side ? Seriously I want to depinned them so teach me ! :D

For the engine bay I've seen wire loom from summit that look great, it mostly looks like a black braided ss hose. No fancy connector at this moment ;)
 
#193 ·
It depends on the connector really. Some have a lock on the inside and the outside.

Eric/turbosax2 has a good thread on his wire tuck on Tooners. IIRC he talks about depinning in it too.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/hangout/298569-my-fuse-box-relocation-project-log.html

He does, just searched his thread for it:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/han...x-relocation-project-log-6.html#post151671032

Here the loom I want for the engine bay, it's called: Powerbraid wire wraps from Painless :D



I have seen some cool connector in MindBlowing build thread but I just can't find anything like this, looks like EURO style connector from my search ... ?
Look at http://cableorganizer.com/ under braided sleeving. Much much cheaper then the Painless stuff I bet.

I'll be ordering from them soon to wrap my dashboard harness.

What do mean by Euro style connectors?
Deutsch Industrial connectors?

Check out http://www.laddinc.com/
 
#192 ·
Here the loom I want for the engine bay, it's called: Powerbraid wire wraps from Painless :D



I have seen some cool connector in MindBlowing build thread but I just can't find anything like this, looks like EURO style connector from my search ... ?
 
#195 ·
Thanks man ! :)

Time to update this thread, last fryday at the shop we had a visit from the Snap-On truck. Just in time for my build since I was looking a kit like this. :D





You always have something like a clip to remove before extracting the wire ...












This connector was the biggest pain, takes me 5 minutes lol ;)


Here is my day of work:




With the right tool it was really easy to do ! Now it's time to start tucking the engine harness. :tat:

Stay tuned !
 
#198 ·
Thanks man ! :D

How much was that kit!?!?! I want it.
This kit cost me 50$ and worth every penny. It takes like 15 to 60 secondes by wires. ;) Gauge 10 is a bit more a pain and my tool was prying sometime so I was happy with my Snap-On kit since it didn't break. :D

Now my friend who help me is tired of waiting after the wiring done to help me so we decided to relocate all my gauges in the center console where the HVAC was. Maybe some switch and a start button ! :tat:
 
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