Boost. The more you up the static compression, the less boost you can run. Personally I'm interested in more low end grunt, and quicker spoolup. The extra 20% displacement will eclipse what an extra 0.5 point of compression will do. And some of us are 1G'ers, so going from 7.8:1 to 8.5:1 is quite a jump as it is.
Let me ask you... What block did you use? What was it from? Did it have the oil squirters in it?
My '97 Spyder 4g64 doesn't have oil squirters in it yet the '94 DOHC Galant 4g64 block I bought does. Just wondering if by chance Magnus' oil-squirter theory still held up...
I have done 2 stroker 4g63s so far and both have blown--dont try that at home---think it was a bad rod angle when the piston compression height is changed that much...
Anyway on to the 64b conversion...and for those of you who are needing the bulletproof swap and don't want to go to an older 6 bolt setup, check out speed design in godfrey, IL--they do a 7 bolt thrust bearing fix (no more crankwalk). These are the same guys that came up with the 4 spider center diff with a custom cross shaft and treated spider gears. I run one in my car and bulletproof like a welded one but the drivability is still there!
Thanks-
Nick
95 GSX--missing an engine again
03 350 z
01 Trooper
85 Landcruiser
Can the 7-Bolt version of the '64 be used in a 1G if the 2G flywheel is used? Also, will the timing belt motor mount from the 64' match up with the mount in the 1G? Is 87.5 mm bore size considered .20 over? And finally, can the rod caps from the '64 be used with big rods or should I keep the rod caps the same (big rods w/ big rod caps)?
Here is a quick way to get your adjustable gears ready for 4g64 use.
Start with some stock 4g63 cam gears. Install the gears and line the marks up. Make sure you have a belt installed and there is no slack in the belt. You can use an old section of a belt for this. Just tie rap it to the gears. Once you get the cams dialed in the right spot, lock the cams in place with vise grips.
Remove stock gears and replace with adjustables. Lock crank at tdc and install 2.4 belt. the gears should have the adjusters loose at this point. When you get the belt adjusted for correct tension, then tighten the cams up. Make new marks on your adjustable gears and you are ready to go.
what are you doing about the water tube from the water pump to the thermostat housing? I bought the water tube people say to buy, but it was to "long" and went past the thermostat housing. As of right now im more frustrated than a 3 legged dog trying to bury a turd on an icy lake. PLEASE HELP
Ok since no answer on that last post how about this....
is there a coolant return port somewhere on the block? I can't remember where the return line goes from the stock turbo. I just need to figure out how to get the coolant from the oil housing back into the system.
So I've been reading up on this thread and I am just starting out as well. I've got my g4cs block out of 89 Sonata so its a 6bolt (scored it for $100 for the shortblock). I'm trying to price out pistons and the cheapest/best solution seems the Wiseco's at $400 with rings off of here
the compression with these are 8.8:1 which is somewhat higher than I'd like but willing to live with it. I'm wondering if anyone has found any place that has them cheaper.
Also, should I buy a new front case/oil pump or just buy a used one. I'm not sure I've really heard of any oil pump failures so that's why I'm somewhat wondering if I need new.
I'm went with the 6bolt since this is for my 90 AWD Talon and think everything should fit. I'm not going to be drilling the extra water drains but I will plug those extra holes in the block. I'm gonna re-use the big rods on the g4cs, same crank, and block. I plan to throw on my 90 1G head on there. I'm not sure if I'm going to port the head or not. If I do decide to port, I guess, I'll throw my 2G head I have. oh and I'm thinking of going without the oil squirters cause if the skirts of the pistons do swim in the oil, I figure that's enough.
I'll post my progress as I go through this. Next step, need an engine stand and then off to the machine shop.
My friend told me that the Chrysler Sebring uses a Mitsu 2.4 Liter engine but I'm not sure if its a 4g64. Can someone confirm this? It'd still be a 7bolt but thought it might be useful to add into the list of potential 4g64 donor vehicles.
what are you doing about the water tube from the water pump to the thermostat housing? I bought the water tube people say to buy, but it was to "long" and went past the thermostat housing. As of right now im more frustrated than a 3 legged dog trying to bury a turd on an icy lake. PLEASE HELP
Does someone have a complete list of ALL the cars that the 2.4L motor came out of? Was there a Mitsubishi car that came with the 6 bolt version? Or was it just the Hyundais?
So by searching CAPS, I came up with a crank part number for a Galant. Part number MD346026. Anyone know if that's correct? (I hope this is in the right forum!)
talonted_one thanks for the link, that's a good list.
So by searching CAPS, I came up with a crank part number for a Galant. Part number MD346026. Anyone know if that's correct? (I hope this is in the right forum!)
talonted_one thanks for the link, that's a good list.
That should be a 6 bolt crank, but you might want to double check. Someone also showed me this website Hyundai Crankshafts. That seems to be a pretty damn good deal.
I'll throw this out there just for fun and so yall can tear your hair out. The 2.4 4G69 motor in the 2004 Lancer Ralliart is a modified 4G64, but uses a MIVEC head. The good news, the MIVEC head would bolt right up. The bad news, the motor is on the passenger side, so it needs an Evo tranny. Those bastards.
I rev mine to 7500. I don't want to rev too much higher just because I don't know how high others are going. There is talk of Magnus revving theirs to 8500 or so however. I sure would like to rev to 8K or higher, but I don't want to do any damage.
I dont know if this has been stated but magnus rev's theres that high because there rods and pistons are custom. They dont provide as much lateral force on the piston walls which helps with the high rev's.
So by searching CAPS, I came up with a crank part number for a Galant. Part number MD346026. Anyone know if that's correct? (I hope this is in the right forum!)
talonted_one thanks for the link, that's a good list.
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