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50 Trim Questions & Suggestions...

2K views 24 replies 11 participants last post by  turboterror 
#1 ·
Today I just bought a PTE 5031e turbo off another member on this board and I had several questions before I receive it and get in way over my head. I'll give you some background first.

I bought a 1993 Eagle Talon from a guy in PA that had a blown Vtrim Bullseye turbo. Anyway, the transaction turned out to be a complete lemon and I got the car shipped here (VA) hoping I could get it running soon. Now I'm in desperate need of an extra vehicle (especially for the winter season) so I bought this turbo hoping it won't be too much of a hassle with it working with my setup.

Here is my setup so far:

550 Injectors
Evo 3 Exhaust Manifold
Evo 3 O2 housing w/dump tube
255 Walboro
SAFC 2
3" Apexi DP w/3" Megan Racing Exhaust
MBC
Dejon Tool Intake
1G BOV

ACT2600 w/ Fidanza Flywheel

Now these are all of the mods if I can remember correctly that came with the car. I left some of the less important ones out. I was told that to be safe I should get a FPR as soon as possible to prevent any damage and that I should look to replace the 550's as well. From reading some other threads on here I shouldn't boost more than 15lbs before I get more supporting mods.

My question is:
1. How hard is it really to install this turbo?? From what I understand there is some denting of the water pipe involved?

2. Besides the larger injectors and the FPR, which has been ordered by the way, is there anything else I'm missing??

I've been on this board for a little while but still consider myself very new so please pardon me. :eek:

Also I'm learning very quickly that you have to pay to play in this game.:wall:
 
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#3 · (Edited)
You already seem to have done most of the research. You will def want to upgrade to a larger size injectors and a FPR is also a good idea. I cant say for sure if you will need to dent the water pipe since I do not have any experience with a PTE 50 trim, but I did run an FP 50 trim back in the day.

When I first went to install it it did hit the water pipe but I was able to loosen the comp housing and rotate it just enough so that it cleared the pipe without having to take a hammer to it. I am not saying that it will work with the PTE but it is worth looking into. Depending on what oil feed/return lines came with the car and the water pipe issue, the swap should be pretty straight forward as any other turbo. The only other thing that I can think of off the top of my head is if you do not already have some form of slim fan, the larger comp housing may not clear the stock fan.

As for injectors I ran a set of 680s with mine but 720s would also work leaving a little room to play with. The main disadvantage of the larger inj with the safc is tunning the idle and low rpm range. You have to remove alot of fuel but like I said my car was pretty happy with the 680s.


EDIT: I just thought of this....I could be wrong but I think I remember reading that PTE turbos did not like having the oil feed directly off of the filter housing. I would just reccommend reading up on the oil feed source with PTE turbos if you had planned on running it off the filter housing just to play it safe.
 
#4 ·
You may or may not have to dent your water pipe. I didn't have to dent mine. I have a SBR g-50 which should be about the same size. I also have a SBR exhaust manifold which might be why I didn't have to dent my water pipe.

I would get larger injectors to take advantage of the turbo. The cheap way to do it is keep the afc. Get larger injectors like 850's. And get a chip programmed for the 850's. Since you have the chip the injectors won't be to much to handle for the afc now. Or you could do it the way I would and buy Dsmlink and sell the afc. I would also reccomend a fmic.
 
#5 ·
partemisio said:
You may or may not have to dent your water pipe. I didn't have to dent mine. I have a SBR g-50 which should be about the same size. I also have a SBR exhaust manifold which might be why I didn't have to dent my water pipe.

I would get larger injectors to take advantage of the turbo. The cheap way to do it is keep the afc. Get larger injectors like 850's. And get a chip programmed for the 850's. Since you have the chip the injectors won't be to much to handle for the afc now. Or you could do it the way I would and buy Dsmlink and sell the afc. I would also reccomend a fmic.
Only problem is that both a chip and dsmlink require an e-prom ecu and he never said he had one. But OP I forgot to mention if you plan on sticking the Safc route...I would recommend opicking up a data logger as well.
 
#6 ·
I know they require an e-prom. I have Dsmlink. I was just suggesting that so he could take full advantage of the turbo instead of being limited by injector size.
 
#7 ·
partemisio said:
I know they require an e-prom. I have Dsmlink. I was just suggesting that so he could take full advantage of the turbo instead of being limited by injector size.

Oh no problem ....I actually agree with you but I sort of got a sense of urgency in his first post to get the car on thr road. Getting a link, chip, and even e-prom ecuwould be ideal, but may take much longer than his needs require. And if he stays with the Safc, IMO 720s are pushing the edge of tunability nevermind 850s and up.
 
#8 ·
Your right, I forgot that he needed it running soon.

I was saying if he stays with the afc to get a chip on top of it. The chip would be programmed for say 850's. So it would be like the afc was controlling stock injectors. Is that wrong?
 
#10 ·
jeepman1998 said:
I run 60-1 with 880 injectors on a safc and a chip. I use the safc for fine tuning right now it is set at zero across the board.
Thats what I wanted to know if it would work. I assumed it would but I wasnt positive since I have never touched an afc.
 
#12 ·
Thanks a lot guys for the feedback. I plan on getting a logger and I already have a FMIC. I think I will take it easy for now with the 550, Safc 2, and the logger setup. If I get a good deal on some injectors I'll make sure that I won't go over 720's and keep the boost low or get it chipped. I know my turbo will be sleepin' @ 15 pounds for a while until I get the proper ingredients in place. If there is any other suggestions I would appreciate it. I wonder how this turbo will compare to my 16G at 15 pounds on my previous eclipse?
 
#13 ·
partemisio said:
Your right, I forgot that he needed it running soon.

I was saying if he stays with the afc to get a chip on top of it. The chip would be programmed for say 850's. So it would be like the afc was controlling stock injectors. Is that wrong?

No you are correct...IF he has a socketed ecu and has the time to order a chip from Keydriver, it is a great way to go and would make life much easier. But then again it comes down to the time issue. So once again I am not saying you are wrong :p



trinistylz2002 said:
Thanks a lot guys for the feedback. I plan on getting a logger and I already have a FMIC. I think I will take it easy for now with the 550, Safc 2, and the logger setup. If I get a good deal on some injectors I'll make sure that I won't go over 720's and keep the boost low or get it chipped. I know my turbo will be sleepin' @ 15 pounds for a while until I get the proper ingredients in place. If there is any other suggestions I would appreciate it. I wonder how this turbo will compare to my 16G at 15 pounds on my previous eclipse?
Well don't think that 15lbs is the magic # to set it at. Even with the 550s you want to use that logger to make sure you are flowing enough fuel. Its a stretch but you may need to set it to 12-13 psi. So Just make sure you go by the logger and not some magic # someone told you. Remember, every car is dif.
 
#14 ·
Jp90Talon said:
No you are correct...IF he has a socketed ecu and has the time to order a chip from Keydriver, it is a great way to go and would make life much easier. But then again it comes down to the time issue. So once again I am not saying you are wrong :p





Well don't think that 15lbs is the magic # to set it at. Even with the 550s you want to use that logger to make sure you are flowing enough fuel. Its a stretch but you may need to set it to 12-13 psi. So Just make sure you go by the logger and not some magic # someone told you. Remember, every car is dif.
Ok, we can both be right in different ways.


As Jp90Talon mentioned, don't just set it to 15psi and think it will be ok. 15psi on a 16g flows less lb's/min then 15psi on a 50 trim. So you can see that the 50 trim will require more fuel then the 16g even at the same boost level. Start off lower then the 16g and watch your idc's on the logger.
 
#15 ·
partemisio said:
You may or may not have to dent your water pipe. I didn't have to dent mine. I have a SBR g-50 which should be about the same size. I also have a SBR exhaust manifold which might be why I didn't have to dent my water pipe.

I would get larger injectors to take advantage of the turbo. The cheap way to do it is keep the afc. Get larger injectors like 850's. And get a chip programmed for the 850's. Since you have the chip the injectors won't be to much to handle for the afc now. Or you could do it the way I would and buy Dsmlink and sell the afc. I would also reccomend a fmic.

I also have a G50. I have the DNP manifold and had to dent the living f%ck out of mine.
 
#16 ·
Be careful about some 50 trim internal gates cannot be set very low. My G50 will only go as low as 17 psi. BTW I did some D/C calculations for your car based on what I was running on my 50 trim, and my injectors, and what my logs read off the Power FC. from what I can see its one of those things that @ 36 psi static I am not sure I would even try to run a 50 trim even if I could get it as low as 15psi on your setup without logging. Because at 36 psi static F/P on 550s you very well could be very very close to 100% DC.

personally I wouldn't even try it without 650s.
 
#18 ·
Rubber mallet? Man are u crazy? that would take forever!!! Damn BFH (Bigger fucking hammer) that mofo..... Thats what I did. Works like a charm on my G50 and my wife's G60.
 
#21 ·
No hammer is needed for bending the water pipe. I just stuck a screwdriver in each end and made a crease where it needed to be made. Maybe I'm thinking of a different pipe, but I certainly didn't need a hammer, mallet or BFH to bend anything.

Back to the original question, suspension bits will be needed to get all that power to the ground, being that its fwd.
 
#23 ·
I didn't dent my 1g turbo water pipe with my SCM50. It cleared perfect, and in fact, I can still access the one bolt on the block and remove the pipe anytime I want. I don't need to unbolt the turbo to move the pipe!



 
#24 ·
Here is my g-50.






No denting with the SBR manifold. Yes they are cell phone pics(everybody asks).
 
#25 ·
I had to dent both my wife's car and my water pipe using the G50 and the G60. I guess its the DNP manifolds that make it a tight fit.
 
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