Clutch Slave Cylinder Stroke too Short? (Clutch doesn't disengage!) - DSM Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum: DSMtalk.com
 
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Old 11-10-2003, 08:14 AM   #1
Dafid
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Question Clutch Slave Cylinder Stroke too Short? (Clutch doesn't disengage!)

I have posted my problem at Club DSM Canada .

What is the proper travel distance of the Clutch release slave cylinder?
What is the proper travel distance of the Master piston from the pedal assembly?
How close to the bell-housing should the release fork be when the clutch pedal is fully depressed?

I currently get : 0.553” full stroke on the SC. When fully extended the outer edge of the piston is still 0.982” from the end of the cylinder. It appears as though it should be extending another 0.75 inches as I can see a corrosion line on the slave cylinder inside wall about 0.25” from the front lip.

The clutch fork is still over 0.5” away from the bell housing. Is it moving far enough? I thought it should touch?

I searched through the archives on clutch disengagement problems and haven't come up with a definitive answer - may be there aren't any.

Problem Summary:

Drove somewhere - 100km's no problem pedal has been a bit “spongy” for about 2-3 months now. Sometimes grinds when going into second not all the time – can’t place it to temperature or anything either - parked.
4 hrs later hop in the car - start up - can't get into ANY gear.
Hop out inspect clutch slave release cylinder - moving.
Fork still in 1 piece - had one break before.
Clutch was replaced about 150K ago. Along with new clutch fork - First one snapped in half.
New JDM engine was put in about 50K ago – JDM flywheel? I’m sure the original must have been swapped over – it was 50K ago.
Running something similar to an ACT 2100 pressure plate.
Release has always been ok - off the floor by an inch or more. If anything it has been releasing too close to the top of stroke than the bottom.

What I have done:
1. Bled the system - refilled up to the top - it was low. Fluid WAS dirty.
2. Checked the free-play of the pedal assembly - not really any - as soon as the
pedal is pressed the slave cylinder moves.
3. Tried a longer piston in the slave cylinder to increase the clutch fork distance –
no luck with that.
4. Everything seems to move OK, no real appreciable extra effort in pedal
actuation – it just doesn't disengage.

Observations:
1. With the car jacked up, and engine running the clutch pedal not pressed - the wheels spin slowly. Why?
2. There is oil around the slave cylinder – but repeated pumping – 50 times does not lower the fluid level in the reservoir, or change the pedal pressure. So I can assume any leaks are minor at best.
3. I don’t notice any oil inside the car. A bit on the lower part of the reservoir on the master cylinder – but again pedal pressure is stable, and fluid level doesn’t appear to change.
4. The master cylinder rod moves full stroke up to close to the threaded adjustment position. Again there are wear marks on the rod – and it seems about right.

So, can anyone confirm the proper travel distances of:
Master cylinder piston
Slave cylinder piston
Release fork distance from housing when cutch is supposed to be disengaged.

What would cause this problem all-of-a-sudden?
TO bearing?
Pressure plate fingers?
I'd like to confirm that the inexpensive - quick to fix items are looked at first before the tranny is pulled.
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