How long does it take to replace the water pump/how hard?
I've fixed so many things on this car...add this to the list. I'm pretty sure the water pump just decided to go out. (it was a brand new water pump when I bought it last fall) So, I'm wondering how difficult it is to change the water pump and about how long it takes. If it's too in depth, I'll just take it somewhere and have it done. Thanks.
1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
JDM 6/4 bolt combo, MBC @ 15-16psi, Dejon Tool intake/K&N filter, homemade 3" turbo-back exhaust with Megan Racing muffler and ported 2g exhaust manifold, ACT2600, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, 550cc injectors, and 16" Konig Spec wheels wrapped in Yokahama Avid V4's
Yip, busy with mine right now, probably take about 3 - 4 hours. The timing belt tension and positioning I find is ok, the worst is the limited amount of space you have to work in between the vehicle frame and the engine side.
There is always one bolt you can't get to, for me the toughest is the timing belt cover bolt, the one closest to the water pump, it actually sits behind the pump pulley flange. There is now way you can get a socket or wrench to it.
Good luck with the change, oh yea what makes you suspect the water pump has gone out????
like stated above most ppl get it done when there belts need to be changed. When i got my belts dont about 2 months ago it included all belts, tensioners, seals, and water pump. I was going to do it in my dads driveway but when i looked it up in the Haynes Manual i said,"F**K this is longer than the clutch job i did"
Re: How long does it take to replace the water pump/how hard?
Originally posted by 69BluDevil I've fixed so many things on this car...add this to the list. I'm pretty sure the water pump just decided to go out. (it was a brand new water pump when I bought it last fall) So, I'm wondering how difficult it is to change the water pump and about how long it takes. If it's too in depth, I'll just take it somewhere and have it done. Thanks.
Did it 3 times in the same weekend. First time it took me about 12 hours (lots of breaks off and on). The second time it took me 3.5 hours, and the final time it took me 2.5 hrs WHILE sharing tools with another car in the garage. Trust me, youll get the hang of it
Holy s**t thanks Van I was so frustrated with the bolt the first time I did it I just cut one side of the cover to make that bolt a slip on fit. I tried the 1/4" drive last night to see if there was enough space and yeeha it fits. Thanks again to Van for the hint.
Also taking out the drivers motor mount, and jacking the engine up and down helps with clearance.
I just did a timing job on a GST in about an hour. It's not so much hard, just time consuming with clearance issues, getting the timing set, tightening the belts, etc. It's a lot of bolt turning work, tedious bolt turning work. Why do you think Mitsu dealers senior techs give the new techs the timing belt jobs? Not that they can't do it, just its a boring job.
FireFighter - Fighting What You Fear
-95 TSI AWD "Nemesis"-
-02 GMC Sierra 2500HD "Tow Rig"-
-start by taking the front motor mount bolt out.
-jack up car and take wheel off.
-take off the 2 12mm bolts that hole the plastic guard up that sheilds the crank pulley.
-undo all accessory belts
-undo the 4 bolts that hold the crank pulley on and take it off
- undo the pulley attached to the water pump (4 10mm bolts)
-undo the driver side motor mount (best use a jack or engine lift to move the motor up and down to maneuver it out.)
-lift the motor as far up as u can
- take the shitload of bolts out that hold the timing belt cover on.
-pull the timing belt cover off.
-losen the timing belt tensioner to let tension off the belt. (zip tie the belt to the cam gears and tape it where its at on the crank gear so u dont have to re-time it. its kind of a bitch if your doin it by yourself).
- replace water pump and put it all back together in the same order, just reversed.
NOTE: when putting tension back on timing belt, get a small allen key, put it in one of the holes and pull up on it until the belt tight enough for u, and torque the tensioner to 35 foot pounds. you will have to then drop the motor down as far as possible and take the auto tensioner out (2 12mm bolts). put it in a vise and slowly compress the little piston in and put an very thin allen key through the hole to keep it in place (you will see what i mean when u get that far). put it back in and pull the key out. MAKE SURE YOU TORQUE THE TENSIONER BOLT DOWN FIRST. if you autotensioner is good still, you should be able to put a 4 mm allen key in the space between the arm and the piston. crank the motor over 6 times clockwise by hand and make sure its still in time. if it is, your ready to go.
ive done this enough times that i have it down to a 1.5 hr job.
It's not hard. It takes me about 30 min. (if I have all the tools ready and set) to remove all timing belt covers. But again, I don't have alot of crap such as emission (and all those silly hoses), no AC and it's stuff so everything goes VERY quick.
Since you are probably doing this for the first time a few things that would help you in the long run. Buy the Miller tool (the one uses to compress and depress the auto-tensioner) it's like $7 and it will pay for itself 20x.
Remember to break the water pump pulley bolts FIRST before dropping the accessory belts and don't unbolt the tensioner bolt. Compress the auto-tensioner (with the earlier mentioned tool), insert the "grenade pin" and remove the auto-tensioner. Make sure you have either marked the timing belt with respect to the various timing marks and/or clip it into position at the bottom so that it doesn't move. the water pump is up top. Replace it, let that RTV set overnight and put everything back on. Once you get the belt to "align" with all the marks you made earlier, bolt the auto-tensioner back on and make sure all your timing marks are set, then pull the pin. Then, put everything back on...
91 GVR4 #476/2000, 13.1@118 (old setup)
Old Car: 91 Eagle Talon AWD. 10.56@139 in 2009 and on 17" true street tires. E85.
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