man, 20mpg!?!? I can believe some of the fuel economy on here. Granted I dont have very many mods done to my GS-T, but I average about 29 and have gotten 32mpg.
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Jesus replied, “Truly I tell you, if you have faith and do not doubt, not only can you do what was done to the fig tree, but also you can say to this mountain, ‘Go, throw yourself into the sea,’ and it will be done.
(Matthew 21:21)
Originally posted by stanfosd man, 20mpg!?!? I can believe some of the fuel economy on here. Granted I dont have very many mods done to my GS-T, but I average about 29 and have gotten 32mpg.
I tough it was there to raise fuel pressure when the engine is still hot, to avoid vapor lock...
has anyone else ever heard of this? I haven't.
I cant imagine how it could ever raise the fuel pressure anyways unless you were in vacuum. The fuel pressure is supposed to get raised proportional to the manifold pressure. The only thing those selenoids do is open or close the pathway of vacuum or boost. In other words it could only close and not allow for boost pressure to get to the FPR which would prevent your fuel pressure from rising. However during vacuum if it were closed it would actually allow a bit higher fuel pressure compared to having vacuum signal on the FPR.
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Starting over with a 92 GVR4
12.465 @ 109.67 14b
(93 GSX) -SOLD-
91 Isuzu Impulse RS w/14b
Faster than ^ till it blew
-SOLD-
ok.. the fp bump up solenoid is real simple.. all it does is eliminate the vaccum source from the fpr at idle so that the fp stays at base instead of dropping with vacuum... has anyone ever had a problem with this solenoid leaking? my roomate's gvr4 had this problem, almost cost him a motor.. as it broke at the track while running big boost...
My vacuum lines consist of the following:
BOV line from manifold Td for the MBC (profec B coming soon)
FP line with the solenoid still in
PCV just normal
a K&N breather filter on the valve cover
that's it, nothing more. All nipples on the valve cover capped. I just completely took out the charcoal canister, all the lines, the whole nine yards. I have a fuel cell so I didn't have anywhere to plug that line in anyway.
I'm still rockin an egr though. Blocking it will gain you all of 0hp. It's closed under boost. The exhaust gas actually raises your octane in a sense. Think of it this way, a higher octane fuel burns slower, by dilluting the intake charge the exhaust gas has in effect raised your octane rating, without changing a thing. That let's your ecu advance ignition timing under cruise conditions.
On the other hand blocking it to keep the intake manifold and throtle body clean is a very valid reason. I fully think that is a good idea. Just don't be expecting to gain all this power from doing it.
SteveTek sells a good cheap plate that let's you toss the entire egr assembly.
To get at it just pull out your battery. It's not *that* hard, but it's not exactly easy.
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Nick Drake
90 GSX
11.6 at 118, best trap 122 on a FP3052
3575 times soon
To removevthe egr, the easiest way to get at it is to remove your battery and maybe even your upper ic pipe. Just get a 12mm socket with an extension and there is one bolt on each side of the egr(2 total. You may have to wrestle around with the shifter cables a little, but no serious problems.
Guys, I removed the egr and the lines to it, which let to the thermostat housing and then to the Throttle body, I removed those and capped off the nipples on the T-body and at the water housing, I also removed the canister which led the fuel line to be sitting there, Im assuming I can just remove the whole line and plug it at the tank? I also removed the rest of the lines which led to a solenoid which im assuming is the FP bump up solenoid that rests beside the FPR solenoid, can I just remove those lines and unplug the solenoid besides the FPR solenoid?
Well, I actually used some mis-wording there, I was actually thinking of plugging the line at the tank with a spare K&N valve cover filter I have lying around, what about the solenoid, can that be unplugged?
electrically on 1g cars there doesn't have to be a connection on any of the three solenoids (on obdII cars you need to have an electrical connection or you will get a check engine light, i don't know if this is true for all 2g cars, but i have tried to remove the boost control solenoid on a 97 and it get an engine light), and if you leave the egr valve assy. in place it won't hurt anything... btw i just ran 280 miles on a tank of gas and drove the shit out of it....
does one of the vacuum hoses from the charcoal canister go into the air intake? i have 2 hoses going into the intake, and i know 1 of them is from the valve cover. i will put a k&n breather filter on that hose. but i need to know the source of the other hose. i need to block that off cuz i'll be changing intakes. i loaned my chiltons manual to a freind so i can't look it up
TIA
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92 TSi AWD
PTE 50 trim, 680 inj, dejon intake, Apexi N1 turboback exh., Act 2600, fidanza fly, Bmtranny trans, ported 2g manny, elim balance shafts., no AC PS or ABS, stage 3 eprom, Pocketlogger, AGX shocks, FMIC.
I can't wait for new times......Been waiting for 3+yrs
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I have a few questions.
no sideeffects so far, except for blowing anothe IC piping coupler ... oh wait, that's not related 
LOL
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