Re: F1 gripforce clutch?
I just ordered a f1 stage II clutch/disk for $124.00 by phone + 18 for regular shipping but my shipping came to 160 with parts because I needed a rush 3 day delivery to Florida. After talking with the guys there twice, I felt pretty good about the deal. I could have easily gone for the clutch,disk,flywheel combo for $278.00, but I decided to go with a new oem flywheel for $57.00 and the F1 Stage II kit (clutch,disk,oem TOB) for the $124.00 plus my extra shipping from CA to FL in 3 days. Advanced auto parts practically stocks or next delivers a oem kit ($132.xx) no core but this is without the flywheel obviously. I am going to direct compare the oem kit to the F1 kit. Close inspection should settle some of the questions. But, think about this. I just blew an ACT 2100 clutch and it fried my stock flywheel. I didn't even really kill it by driving it hard, the clutch disc was not properly releasing and it overheated while in 1st gear. How did this happen? Too much pedal pressure! (oem pedal even with extended rod or oem rod would not release fully the clutch )([ I really think the clutch is a good clutch and worth the money, but you had better be prepared for dealing with new master cylinders and slave cylinders and clutch pedal adjustments. Do not forget to make sure not only in the clutch for not just bent, but the fulcrum ball has not warn away the inside of the fork. Check the inside of the fork and you won't believe how bad that pivot point can wear inside the fork. It can make the for so sloppy that when you have the tranny installed with prothane mounts and the clutch rubber fork guide you might not notice anything but that you have to put the pedal all the way to the floor pan to get shifting smooth. This is a bad sign. Be careful My point is that I would rather run this F1 stage II and be humble than run an ACT 2100+ clutch unless I were ready to deal with possible clutch pedal assembly wear, busted flywheel and more torture on your drivetrain. So, I am going down from an ACT clutch to the modest stage II. If it is as real as the stats are, then I should be able to enjoy this clutch without dealing with the definite know oem issue clutch and not make a juicer machine out of my tranny /bellhousing. Again, I need street drivability without having to stand up through the sunroof to push the clutch pedal down. So, if anyone wants to know how this swap goes, I'll let you know via my email. Thank you for the time in reading this.