I am very humbly asking serious machinist/builders to step inside.

[IggyBcool]

I've recently acquired a new ride 95 awd TSI. I'm looking to do a 6 bolt swap with a 2g head. Goal 650 on purple drank and 650++ on c16.

I'm wanting to keep the 6 bolt a 2.0l so I'm going need to be able to rev it pretty good. I'm also wanting to keep the stock crank (spec'ed and balanced)

Planning on going with Eagle rods, Weisco HD pistons (9:1) ACL mains and rods, L19 studs. But rods and pistons are subject to change to a little higher quality if my fundings will allow.

The problem is, theres really no good machine shops or really any car shops in my area that deal with DSM's or 4cyl's at that. I'm wanting to have the work done by a machine shop that knows the stuff and is very very good with building high hp v8's and making them last and do a jam up job on their actual machining work.

I was planning on having them do the machine work (hot tank, bore .020, balance the crank) but I want to be able to supply them with a solid set of tolerances/clearances to keep the motor able to make good hp but at the same time be able to take abuse.

If you guys could PLEASE and I'm humbly asking you guys to help out in helping me get a solid set of specs together for them, and any other tips/tricks you guys can think of in making sure everything is installed properly and set properly I would appreciate it. The biggest issue that I'm scared about is crankwalk because I had a shop build a 98 7 bolt that walked after 403 miles and needless to say, I'm nervous.

Thank you guys so much.

[IggyBcool]

I'm sorry, I didn't realize I was still in the Lounge. If a mod could please move to appropriate section, I would appreciate it.

[11secdsm]

Tolerances are going to be dependant on the rods ans pistons you end up going with due to the different materials used. The good news is its really not a mistery. Pick a combo and you'll be able get the info you need.

[DSM Loki]

Since you want to stay 2.0 and want to rev, have you considered knife edging the crank? You could also run a 156mm rod with a stroker piston to improve your rod ratio for happier revs without changing displacement. As far as PTW and ring gap it will vary depending on material.

[IggyBcool]

What does knife edging the crank do? I'm pretty set on Eagle rods and Weisco pistons because they seem to handle what I'm wanting to do. I honestly don't see myself going over 800hp.

[Sean485]

Knife edging means taking the crank counterweights and basically bringing them to a point to help it cut through the air/oil vapor easier and reduce the amount of oil on the non critical crank surfaces and get it to the pan faster. To some degree it also removes rotating mass depending on how agressive you want to be.

[IggyBcool]

So I'm assuming that would be some pretty serious cash for a machinist to do since it would be easily fudgable.

[Rockemum]

I remember reading about an "extreme" knife edged crank called the butcher or something similar. Probably worth something, but the cost isn't it. As for as tolerances, if this shop builds race v8's and high power engines, they've probably had experience with boosted engines and know what boost will do, and have an idea of what to do with the rings and specs. When I told my machinist I was planning on going over 30 psi, he said "now that changes everything". He said he's used to hearing 5-10 psi from his customers.

[IggyBcool]

I talked to one of my friends that is good friends with the owner of this machine shop and he kind of eased my mind. I did how ever decide to build the 7 bolt in the car (95) and have a spare 95 7 bolt. I did also decide to change the rods to Carrillo A-beams and can only get the Weisco HD's in 8:5.

[90BLACKAWDTSI]

For 650hp I would keep bearing clearances around .0028 for the crank and around the same for the rods.

If you plan to surpass 650hp and 8500RPM start going closer to .003-.0035 for the mains and the rods.

On a 7 bolt or any 4G63 for that matter do not run the mains looser than the rods. You will need to make sure you have sufficient oil volume with the clearances past .003

Consider also ditching the Eagle rods and pick up a set of either Manley Turbo Tuff I beams or R&R steel rods.

[IggyBcool]

Thank you sir, yes I ditched the Eagles and a friend is going to be able to hook me up with a set of Carrillo's in which I'm a firm believer in witnessing their set of A-beams make 1503whp corrected.

[phunny]

What are your end goals or are they just HP based? What makes you want to stay with a 2.0 as opposed to a 2.3?

[BISHILVR]

Carillo was my second choice only to the Pauter X beam, the Pauter is rated at higher hp which put me at ease from the begining, holding one in my hand for a few seconds sold me on it with the quality of it, that and the fact that plenty of single digit 1/4 mile times have been laid down with the Pauter. I have personally seen several of the big ends on the Pauter turn blue/black from a bearing that got hot from lack of lubrication or trying to spin in the big end housing and the rod held the bearing tight enough to not allow it to spin and in fact the rods still had the crosshatching in the bore on both occasions, pretty stout stuff.

[IggyBcool]

Originally Posted by phunny

What are your end goals or are they just HP based? What makes you want to stay with a 2.0 as opposed to a 2.3?

Just a little cheaper and from what I've been gathering 2.0l's just seem to take more abuse and stay together longer.

[phunny]

Originally Posted by IggyBcool

Just a little cheaper and from what I've been gathering 2.0l's just seem to take more abuse and stay together longer.

Interesting, I haven't seen that at all. Once you go 2.3 you never go back, all the extra torque along with revving high is a win win IMHO. That's why I was asking if this is a purpose built car or just a fun DD.