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Old 05-08-2002, 08:59 AM   #76
awd92gsx
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I don't think so, Mitsubishi head gaskets have a metal ring around the cylinders, so...I dunno....
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Old 05-09-2002, 09:07 AM   #77
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http://www.geocities.com/awd92gsx/dse4g64.html

That's about everything you need...the list isn't all that long actually...

I, unfortunately, haven't gotten a price list together of the cost of the different items. Maybe if I can get some free time at work I can give the list to the parts guys and have them run me a pricing guide on it all.

If you're dropping it into a 2G, the 7 bolt is easier. The 6 bolt will require the same modifications to the engine and harness that you would need to do to drop a 1G engine in (Magnus has them listed on his site).

You can use your 2G head, ported or non ported, or you can use a 1G head, but, you will need to do all of the normal things that people do when they do the 1G head swap.

I'd recommend running aftermarket rods with the 7 bolt engine (or running 1G rods machined to fit). The Galant shares the same exact rods as a 2G turbo, so, they're OK for light to medium turbo duty, but, if you want to run past 400hp then I'd suggest going to a bigger rod (such as a 1G rod, or a set of Eagles, which is what we're using)

I've *considered* selling a *kit* that would have everything needed to convert your 2.0L to a 2.4L once you got the engine...but...I dunno...I don't have alot of spare time to keep up with everything...
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Old 05-09-2002, 07:45 PM   #78
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IF you could find a DOHC 4G64, that'd be best, but, the only advantage is that you wouldn't have to plug off the holes, other than that, it doesn't really make a whole lot of difference, just a little less work.

You can't use any OEM pistons. The stock 4G64 pistons are too high of a compression and probably wouldn't work well with too much boost (a little maybe, but not very much).

Magnus has ROSS's in stock, but they're for 6 bolt rods, so you'd have to find some 1G rods to use or get your 2G rods rebushed for them.
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Old 05-09-2002, 08:42 PM   #79
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list..

it's pretty simple..

to make it work.. follow the guidelines for plugging the sohc block that are on Bill's site. the sohc blocks are more plentiful and cheaper. and the plugging 5 holes is not that much..only 50.00 at my machinist.

buy the Ross pistons at Magnus. Buy a set of 2g aftermarket rods (Crower, Eagle, Pauter.. whatever) Or to be cheapest and run low HP #s (under 400) narrow a set of 1G OEM rods. If you use the 2G rods the pin end of the rod will need to be re-bushed down 1mm from 22mm to 21mm to fit the smaller wrist pin dia. in the Ross piston, which is made for the 1G.

The oil pump, oil cooler, water pump..etc from the 4g63 will bolt on. Get the cam gears for a 1994 Galant GS DOHC from the dealer, along with the timing belt. I'm working on having adjustable cam gears made for this swap.

Your 2g head will bolt right back into place. The only difference externally in the block is the height, which is 6mm taller.

I have had a question on the placement of the crank position sensor, but we have not started the final assembly of the block yet, so I cannot answer that.

I'll be doing updates on the progress.. it will be happening mostly next week. As a reminder, we are using a 1G head..slightly ported and a 3 angle valve job.. all Crower valvetrain and the 414 cams. AEM cam Gears modified for 4g64 use. Ross pistons and 2g Eagle rods. Power is a Turbonetics t3t04e .50 trim and Tial 35mm WG (soon to be 40mm) 660cc injectors and all APEX'i electronics (alphabet soup.. AVC-r, S-AFC, S-ITC.. and a RSM)
Should be a torque monster..we hope.

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Old 05-09-2002, 09:42 PM   #80
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you use the crank and block of the 4g64.

the add'l 6mm height of the block should not interfere with the downpipe. i'll comment more on that when we get to that stage. i made the 3" downpipe that we are using so if need be, i'll just lengthen it a little.

tranny bolts right up. head bolts right up.. exhaust mani is on the head so.. you see what i'm getting at.

the exhaust will match up, because even if there was a difference slightly, the downpipe has a flex section that would accomodate it.

I'm sure there will be a noticeable difference in the power band of the car, even on the stock turbo. Keep in mind that not only are you increasing the stroke, you are increasing the bore by 1.5mm and the compression ratio is increased to 9.0:1 as well.

As soon as this one is completed, I have another guy waiting in the wings that is making the final decision whether or not to do it. He is fed up with the 2g 4g63..he's been thru 2 that were done by other shops. His swap to the 4g64 would be just as you plan on... stock turbo.. probably even stock 2g rods.. just shot peened and balanced...stock head, cams..etc.

i say this all the time.. but stay tuned..
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Old 05-10-2002, 07:15 AM   #81
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Interesting reading guys.

I'm curious about the 6mm height difference in the two blocks. Where is it at? For some reason I was thinking that the 6mm was in the deck height. And that had me convinced that a stock set of 2G rods/pistons wouldn't reach high enough (6mm too short). I figured you'd have to get longer rods(than 2G's) or offset the wristpin in the piston to make it work. Apparently I'm wrong, so can someone enlighten me as to where the extra 6mm is?
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Old 05-10-2002, 08:49 AM   #82
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No, you're right.

The 6mm is in the deck height. The crank has a 12mm longer stroke (6mm up, 6mm down).
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Old 05-10-2002, 10:12 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally posted by lambertvr4
I'm curious about the 6mm height difference in the two blocks. Where is it at? For some reason I was thinking that the 6mm was in the deck height. And that had me convinced that a stock set of 2G rods/pistons wouldn't reach high enough (6mm too short). I figured you'd have to get longer rods(than 2G's) or offset the wristpin in the piston to make it work. Apparently I'm wrong, so can someone enlighten me as to where the extra 6mm is?
Like Bill said... It's a 6mm higher deck height. The rods in the 94-99 4G64 are the same mitsubishi part number as the rods in the 95-99 (2g) 4G63T. Thus, the extra deck height is needed to compensate for the longer stroke.
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Old 05-10-2002, 10:18 AM   #84
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Re: list..

Quote:
Originally posted by Epik
I'm working on having adjustable cam gears made for this swap.
Hey Epik... Did you put the cam gears side by side? What exactly is the difference between them? It's just for information's sake. I'm curious about this whole process. I may do the DOHC swap at some point in the future (currently running the SOHC head on my 4G64 turbo).
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Old 05-10-2002, 07:24 PM   #85
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The only difference between the cam gears is that the DOHC 4G64 cam gears are half a tooth off of the 4G63 DOHC cam gears.
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Old 05-10-2002, 11:46 PM   #86
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ever find out about the 4g64 intake manifold fitting to the 4g63 head?
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Old 05-10-2002, 11:49 PM   #87
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The only reason that you'd need a 4G64 intake manifold is if you were going to run the 4G63 head on a 4G64 in a Galant, or N/T spyder...other than that, you can just use your 4G63 intake.
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Old 05-10-2002, 11:54 PM   #88
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well i'm gonna try to find a Galant DOHC bottom end for a lil easier install, but if not i'll just use a Galant SOHC or Spyder SOHC

so i could use either or the intake manifolds?

does the 4g64 intake manifold flow better?
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Old 05-11-2002, 12:10 AM   #89
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the balance shaft is in the block correct? if so, does the 4g64/2.4L block have them? if so, could i get the balance shaft eliminator kit to do w/ the swap?
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Old 05-11-2002, 12:18 AM   #90
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Yeah, the 4G63 intake flows better.

The 4G64 has balance shafts, but you can remove them just like a 4G63 if you desire...
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