Custom intercooler pipes for FMIC-FP green or M-L3
I have been thinking about this for some time now, and now I would like to hear your views and opinion on this.
I am also sure that there have been threads in the past that dealt with this issue but they were of very little help.
So here is the scenario.
I have two possible source to help me custom make a set of pipes to mate with my Indy race core.
The design of the piping is very basic: 2 45degree and 2 90degree mandrel pipes, like BR style for the shortest possible route.
I have found http://www.phantomroadworks.com/miscparts.html
that sells some real nice SS mandrel piping, problem is I don't know how long they are. I don't want to buy the pipes and find out that they are short little elbows.
Of course, RRE also sells these pipes for DIY guys. Can you guys think of anyone else who sells pipes suitable for Intercoolers.
Problem #2. Welding a flange on the ss pipe seemed to be a pain according to my welder. And on top of that what will the finish look like after you have welded in that area. I can't imagin it being nice and shiney anymore.
Again, my main concern is not really about the finish on the pipes but the fittment of the pipes.
(This thread is in no wise set out to pirate any shop out of their business. I am simple interested in people who have made their own piping to give their input.)
__________________
2004 EVO 8 12.8@110 pump on 19psi Pending FS635
2000 Pontiac GTP 13.7@ 101
92 LUMINA Z34 15.7@88.9(stock) For Sale
93 AWD TS1 (MUTT TO BE) Sold!
13.2@101mph 60ft=1.74 w/17psi+110oct on 14B
For the ultimate in Power and Performance see Jesus
I made my own IC piping for my car. I got all the bends from JC Whitney. I just use the mild steel ones and get them painted or powdercoated. I have to do three more sets here in the next two weeks. I am changine the way I run them, because mine is set up for a 16G based turbo and all the other ones are for Mutts and greens.
Originally posted by IPT I made my own IC piping for my car. I got all the bends from JC Whitney. I just use the mild steel ones and get them painted or powdercoated. I have to do three more sets here in the next two weeks. I am changine the way I run them, because mine is set up for a 16G based turbo and all the other ones are for Mutts and greens.
What length were the pipes you used for the Green, assuming you are routing to a front mount. Do you have any pics.
__________________
2004 EVO 8 12.8@110 pump on 19psi Pending FS635
2000 Pontiac GTP 13.7@ 101
92 LUMINA Z34 15.7@88.9(stock) For Sale
93 AWD TS1 (MUTT TO BE) Sold!
13.2@101mph 60ft=1.74 w/17psi+110oct on 14B
For the ultimate in Power and Performance see Jesus
When I did the spearco in my corrado I did all the IC piping. I don't remember where I ordered it, but it was in the back of turbo mag....one of those tiny ads like the burnsstainless ads. I just ordered like 4 U-bends....I remember that after the "U" there was probably about 6 inches of straight pipe....
Really I just posted to say that it is super important that you put some kind of bead on the joints if you are going to use silicone connectors. I popped my IC pipes apart a few times before I did that...
Good luck...it's really not as hard as you would think, it just takes some patience. FWIW, a cheap place to get silicone connectors is to simply go to a big-rig truck supply type place....they sell 2-3" diameter coolant hose which is good for something ridiculous like 120psi or something....it's easy to find a cheaper than going with RRE or something. Just get a long section and cut small pieces off for connectors.
1) aluminumized pipes can be welded or braised but the aluminum has to be burned off first
2) SS is a complete pain to weld
3) you must consider the radius of the bends cuz the bushur style uses really tight 90 deg. bends on the bottom. For those I used
2 3/8 in pipe...an 1/8 smaller but a 3in radius compared to 4 in!!!! very important for 20G or Green style compressor housings.
4) I used Road race for pipes (18 Gauge steel) very easy to braise and flanges for t body, and i made a 16G outlet pipe for a friend also.
5) RRE is the cheapest for the most part, with the tightest bends (3 or 4 in radius'..sp) and are available in steel, which can be painted or powdercoated.
rob
__________________
Signature suspended. Please read the rules before creating a new signature. - Moderating Team
What do you use to braze your own pipes? I heard brazing rods are expensive, and you definitely spelt it wrong
Quote:
Originally posted by talonman69 I made the exact same pipes a week ago.....
a few things to consider:
1) aluminumized pipes can be welded or braised but the aluminum has to be burned off first
2) SS is a complete pain to weld
3) you must consider the radius of the bends cuz the bushur style uses really tight 90 deg. bends on the bottom. For those I used
2 3/8 in pipe...an 1/8 smaller but a 3in radius compared to 4 in!!!! very important for 20G or Green style compressor housings.
4) I used Road race for pipes (18 Gauge steel) very easy to braise and flanges for t body, and i made a 16G outlet pipe for a friend also.
5) RRE is the cheapest for the most part, with the tightest bends (3 or 4 in radius'..sp) and are available in steel, which can be painted or powdercoated.
Before we started up IRC... I had purchased a couple of bends from RRE to fab up some BR style FMIC pipes for my custom FMIC using a 944 FMIC core w/ new end tanks. To tell you the truth, I ended up spending near what our piping kits cost (for 1g of course). That's the whole reason that we decided to offer the piping kits. You go & add up all the quality parts ( prices from RRE.. whose pipes come really close to fitting already) 2 90s $30, 2 45s $30, 90 for TB elbow $15 , TB flange $15, TB elbow gasket $4, BOV flange $10, BOV gasket $2, Silicone hose 1.5' $37.50, 2.5" hump hose $25, 2-2.5" transition $20, 12 Tbolt clamps $60 ($5 each), Radiator overflow tank $15, & powdercoating runs about $50-75 (I'll use $50 to make it easy) for a set of IC piping. After all that I come up w/ $313.50 total and that's not including any of the welding. If you got to SS... expect to pay about $30-45 per bend... and aluminum is really soft & will dent easily. If you need a Jpipe... add about another $30-60 in parts. If you check out www.indyracecores.com you'll see what we charge for our piping kits w/ all the above parts. Like I said... I had purchased all these parts myself to make my own FMIC piping. We started out like everyone here... & the business just kind of happened.. We found some really good deals on some parts. I know it sounds cheap in the beginning.. but everything adds up quick.
Originally posted by KenTSIII Before we started up IRC... I had purchased a couple of bends from RRE to fab up some BR style FMIC pipes for my custom FMIC using a 944 FMIC core w/ new end tanks. To tell you the truth, I ended up spending near what our piping kits cost (for 1g of course). That's the whole reason that we decided to offer the piping kits. You go & add up all the quality parts ( prices from RRE.. whose pipes come really close to fitting already) 2 90s $30, 2 45s $30, 90 for TB elbow $15 , TB flange $15, TB elbow gasket $4, BOV flange $10, BOV gasket $2, Silicone hose 1.5' $37.50, 2.5" hump hose $25, 2-2.5" transition $20, 12 Tbolt clamps $60 ($5 each), Radiator overflow tank $15, & powdercoating runs about $50-75 (I'll use $50 to make it easy) for a set of IC piping. After all that I come up w/ $313.50 total and that's not including any of the welding. If you got to SS... expect to pay about $30-45 per bend... and aluminum is really soft & will dent easily. If you need a Jpipe... add about another $30-60 in parts. If you check out www.indyracecores.com you'll see what we charge for our piping kits w/ all the above parts. Like I said... I had purchased all these parts myself to make my own FMIC piping. We started out like everyone here... & the business just kind of happened.. We found some really good deals on some parts. I know it sounds cheap in the beginning.. but everything adds up quick.
I am buy no means disputing the fact that you sell really great piping with your cores but I have the ability to aquire parts at a discounted price. There are companies out there that sell 45 & 90 much cheaper than RRE. (look in my original post). As far as the flanges for the throttle body and BOV I already have those made at a considerable low cost. So as far as the cost of the whole piping, hoses, clamps etc..etc... I think I will benefit from doing it my self. Now this may not be so for people without the access to have flanges and welding done at a lower cost.
Again, ken I think you guys are doing a great job offering top class intercooler kits for the cost you do, but when it comes down to it I have to look out for me. I found that I can make the piping myself a little cheaper so thats why this thread arouse to see if other people on the board has done it.
__________________
2004 EVO 8 12.8@110 pump on 19psi Pending FS635
2000 Pontiac GTP 13.7@ 101
92 LUMINA Z34 15.7@88.9(stock) For Sale
93 AWD TS1 (MUTT TO BE) Sold!
13.2@101mph 60ft=1.74 w/17psi+110oct on 14B
For the ultimate in Power and Performance see Jesus
If you are referring to the popular MKIV (tt) SMIC, then there is no welding need to flip the tanks. If you are talking about a different one, my appologies. HTH
__________________
Kevin Jewer
91 Talon RWD - Compound turbos - 8.97 @ 156
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.